I am going to start doing more of my own maintenance on my vans. I have always had mechanic do fuel filter changes and such on my 06 and my new one is not ready for any p.m. yet so needless to say, I don't have much experience working on them...yet.

I have seen youtube videos on a fuel filter change for the 6.6 in trucks, but I can't find any such videos for the vans, which I understand are a little different.

I have discovered there is no manual prime for the vans, but instead an ignition priming process. I pretty much get this.

My main question is that I have read there are two? fuel filters on the vans? When I look underneath, I can only locate one, which is right inside the frame on driver's side. Also, it does not appear to have a water seperator plugged into it? Is this the only one, or are there two seperate fuel filters on these vans? Also, on the bottom of the filter, there is something that looks like a hose of some type would attach to it, but there is no hose. What is that for? If there are two seperate filters, are they the same part number? I have already ordered some Racor fuel filters that replace "Gm OE number:19149845" from DieselFiltersOnline. Of the three filters listed available for vans, they are all replacements for the same GM OE part number.

Thanks in advance for helping out a newb!

The other fuel filter is right next to it in the black plastic canister. Put a socket on the bottom and unscrew it there will be the other filter inside. That is just a drain on the bottom of the filter. I replaced it with a metal plug from Merchant Automotive.

After you get the filters changed you need to cycle the key 3x to prime the system. Listen very carefully and you will hear the the prime pump running. When the pump shuts off, turn the key off and wait a second then repeat. Do not try and start it until you have done this 3x.

When you take the black plastic canister off, inspect what is in the bottom of it. Water, dirt, metal, nothing, etc and that will give you a idea of the quality of fuel you are getting.

The other fuel filter is right next to it in the black plastic canister. Put a socket on the bottom and unscrew it there will be the other filter inside. That is just a drain on the bottom of the filter. I replaced it with a metal plug from Merchant Automotive.

After you get the filters changed you need to cycle the key 3x to prime the system. Listen very carefully and you will hear the the prime pump running. When the pump shuts off, turn the key off and wait a second then repeat. Do not try and start it until you have done this 3x.

When you take the black plastic canister off, inspect what is in the bottom of it. Water, dirt, metal, nothing, etc and that will give you a idea of the quality of fuel you are getting.


Thanks,

Do they both take the same filter? I assume so because I only found one part number. On the drain, is that automatic if there is water in the fuel, or does it have to be manually opened to drain? Also, do you normally do both filters each time, or just the primary at shorter intervals and then the secondary at longer? Which brings me to my last question (I suppose I could probably figure this one out if I wanted to crawl under van in the dark and look right now) is which one is the primary and which one is the secondary filter?

Thanks again,

Todd.

They are 2 different filters. It shows a picture of the filters you get where you ordered them. It is a manual drain. Do both filters at the same time. It goes through the cartridge one first.

FWIW, here's a picture:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=123203&d=1319949616
The "normal" fuel filter (same as used on pickup trucks) is the white filter on the right.

So how long is everyone going on there fuel filters?? I usually go till I am pulling 5" of vacuum which is right about 30k, unless I use B-20 and you know what that will do :eek: I use the Kennedy diesel fuel pressure gauge. New filters pull about 2.5" of vacuum so I figure when its doubled (5") they are ready to be changed. Thoughts, opinion's.

Every 10,000 miles every other oil Change. Always Dirty and Black. Couldn't imagine how bad it would be if I waited longer.

FWIW, here's a picture:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=123203&d=1319949616
The "normal" fuel filter (same as used on pickup trucks) is the white filter on the right.

i tried searching that part number on the pump, but comes up invalid. is there another number?

i tried searching that part number on the pump, but comes up invalid. is there another number?
If it's like other stuff with barcode labels, that's a 'build part number' (or maybe "stock code") rather than a service part number. If you call a GM parts dept., they guy should be able to cross reference it.
Here's a diagram that shows those part,
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/images/parts/gm/fullsize/100907TG03-767.JPG
but unfortunately it isn't listed in the part list for that drawing.
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=2715031&ukey_assembly=382215
(the pump that is part #8 is the fuel metering pump for the Espar heater, and ridiculously overpriced, of course).
I find it very frustrating to use this parts lookup system for that reason.
Have to find some other page that does list it, even though it will show the same picture.


OK, I found it. Here's the drawing:
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/images/parts/gm/fullsize/100831TG03-780.JPG
And here's the parts listing:
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=2885012&ukey_assembly=382301
Stock Code 12635785
FILTER. Engine Fuel Filter
FILTER,FUEL(INCLS PUMP,SEAL,FILTER,BOWL,SENSOR,DRAIN PLUG)(ACDelco #TP3014). Required: 01
For: G2,3 6.6 (LGH) (2010-2011) (2010 - 2011).
For: G2,3 6.6-6 DURAMAX(LMM) (2010-2010) (2010 - 2010).
For the completely ridiculous price of $539.00

To see how ridiculous that is, the "normal" fuel filter (ACDelco #TP3013) is #21 on the drawing, and is priced at $177.36 :eek:

Actually it's not so much :eek: as it is :mad: that they have retail prices like this. Almost like, if they can't make money selling cars, then...

My mistake in the post above - that $177 pricetag is for a filter kit that includes both the "primary" cartridge filter and secondary spin-on filter (same as on a pickup).
But this kit is $80 at DieselFiltersOnline, and the Racor version of this kit is $32.50, so that $177 price is still ridiculous.

My main question is that I have read there are two? fuel filters on the vans? When I look underneath, I can only locate one, which is right inside the frame on driver's side. Also, it does not appear to have a water seperator plugged into it? Is this the only one, or are there two seperate fuel filters on these vans? Also, on the bottom of the filter, there is something that looks like a hose of some type would attach to it, but there is no hose. What is that for? If there are two seperate filters, are they the same part number? I have already ordered some Racor fuel filters that replace "Gm OE number:19149845" from DieselFiltersOnline. Of the three filters listed available for vans, they are all replacements for the same GM OE part number.
What's interesting is that DieselFiltersOnline.com sells the Racor van kit, including the cartridge "primary" filter and the spin-on "secondary" filter,
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/Pff-558095-06-08-Chevy-6-6-Liter-Duramax-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Express-Vans-Replaces-Tp1537-Pff558095.aspx
for only 50¢ more than the Racor pickup truck filter:
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/Pff-50216-Chevy-Gmc-6-6-Liter-Duramax-Racor-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-98081884-New-Updated-Filter-Replaces-Tp3012-Pff-50216.aspx
I wonder if the van kit includes the same latest water-coalescing filter as the "secondary" filter?
Or maybe the van's "primary" filter does a better job at that?

FYI, here's another approach to a lift pump and prefiltering fuel before it enters the main oem filter:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=424968

The cheaper van filter kit from there does not have the coalescing filter. It has the old paper pleat design. The way I look at it is if you get a bad batch of fuel you are screwed with either filter design. If we only had the 1 spin-on filter I would go with the more expensive coalescing filter.

I changed mine today and they had about 12,000 miles on them. The cartridge filter was about 75% black. I fill the spin-on with PS Diesel Kleen. It will hold almost 32 oz, I dump the rest in the tank and this cleans the injectors very well.

So how long is everyone going on there fuel filters?? I usually go till I am pulling 5" of vacuum which is right about 30k, unless I use B-20 and you know what that will do :eek: I use the Kennedy diesel fuel pressure gauge. New filters pull about 2.5" of vacuum so I figure when its doubled (5") they are ready to be changed. Thoughts, opinion's.

30 to 50 k is good. Changing it by the pressure gauge (like you) is the smart way.

The color of the fuel filters upon dissection is not a good indication of the "dirt" load in them. Many a different fuel chemistry will turn filter material various colors with brown and black being common.

If you follow the fuel filter "life" display in the dash you will likely not have any issues. Currently (and I run biodiesel whenever I can) the change fuel filter message pops up every 30k or so and I change them between that and 50k and I have never had an issue with performance or injectors on either on my Duramax's. I run either Fleetguaurd or Delco filters and always by the most recent version.

I do however, buy my fuel from places that sell a lot of diesel, not the corner store.

I would also never leave a fuel filter on for more than 12 months regardless of miles.

When I have picked up some bad batches of fuel the filters have gone black. When I have good fuel they stay white. You never know when or where you will get some bad fuel, I have gotten some at high volume places you just never know. I do not think we have the idiot light on the 2006 vans. The Delco filters are made by Racor.

When I have picked up some bad batches of fuel the filters have gone black. When I have good fuel they stay white. You never know when or where you will get some bad fuel, I have gotten some at high volume places you just never know. I do not think we have the idiot light on the 2006 vans. The Delco filters are made by Racor.

I don't think we have the light either and I have got some BAD fuel before. Just went to the diesel filter online site and it looks like they are offering a Primeguard set for about seven dollars cheaper. I have never heard of this brand so I will stick with the Racor's until I hear differently.

Also picked up 2 cases of stanadyne in the 1/2 gallon jugs (from a diesel injection pump re-builder in PA.), that should last awhile :D $115.81 for a case of six 1/2 gallons. What are ya'll getting them for?? I used to buy it by the 5 gallon can, but it is a f^%&'in mess to deal with :mad: 1/2 gallons cost more but a whole lot less hassle. :D

I got some case 1/2 gallons for $ 106 earlier this year. I also used to get the 5 gallon cans but it was pain in the ass. I transfer the half gallons to gallon jugs that pour better into the 16 oz bottles.

I forgot to add that on this last filter change I had a large amount of aluminum shavings in the bottom of the cartridge bowl. I am not sure where all of that came from.

I got some case 1/2 gallons for $ 106 earlier this year. I also used to get the 5 gallon cans but it was pain in the ass. I transfer the half gallons to gallon jugs that pour better into the 16 oz bottles.

I forgot to add that on this last filter change I had a large amount of aluminum shavings in the bottom of the cartridge bowl. I am not sure where all of that came from.

I bought one of them screw on gear filler nozzles, the kind you put on a quart of gear oil so you can pump it in to the rear housing. Works great and no leak's!! I transfer the 1/2 gallon to 2 - 32oz Lucas fuel injection cleaner bottles, they are graduated so you can easily tell how many ounces you are throwing in. Got the filler nozzle from autozone for $3.99. Screws on the 1/2 gallon stanadyne jug perfectly.

I got heavy shavings in the cup after it was destroyed by the gelled fuel. I saW the shavings and cleaned them out and went to prime the pump and it was spinning HIGH SPEED LOW DRAG!!! So a new pump had to go in. If yours primed then it is probably okay, maybe it was from some fuel you bought. A refinery machine may have taken a dump. :eek:

I have a collection of screw on nozzles that have come from WalMart, AutoZone, etc.

Some of the nozzles that come on condiment containers such as mustard will work too.

Almost all of them are made of HDPE, so they are highly resistant to fuel & oil at room temp & no pressure.

I have been reviewing the fuel additive test here: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728
and have pretty much decided to try Shaeffer's or FPPF since they are the highest rated additives made by a company that I know is a real additive company. Shaeffer's Diesel Treat 2000 was rated #6 in that study, with a HFRR 470, a 166 micron improvement. That study rated FPPF "RV, Bus, SUV Diesel/Gas fuel treatment" slightly higher in lubricity (HFRR 439, 197 micron improvement), but it's not diesel-specific. FPPF does make other products specifically for diesel fuel, such as FPPF Lubricity Plus Fuel Power, but that was much worse, #16 (HFRR 675, 39 microns worse than baseline fuel), actually reducing the fuel lubricity. When I see results like this, it does tend to make me question the test, but it seems to have been conducted pretty meticulously.

I have seen enough about Opti-Lube to make me leery of them.