I thought I would just list a couple of tips, while they are fresh in my mind, after installing the Nictane kit today:


I would definately drop the tank a bit. If you put a bit of plywood under the tank, then use a floor jack to lower it after removing the two tank straps. I then removed the side aluminum shield for easier (if you can call it that) access to the top of the tank.


If you are just jacking the truck up with a floor jack, it is interesting work on the top of the tank. I used a mechanic's mirror to see what is going on while trying to remove the fuel line.


I found it easier to remove the fuel line at the fuel cooler first, then remove the other end at the top of the tank. It allowed me to better pull on the line while working the disconnect tool.


Last, when mounting the bracket I found it easier to use a c-clamp and clamp the bracket in place at the front bed support. This made it easier to get it bolted up.


I also found it nice to have a helper. I would like to thank 4x4man for coming down to Colorado Springs from Denver to both check out the install, and lend a helping hand! It was great meeting you and I look forward to working with you on other truck projects in the future.


Lastly, great kit Nick! It went to together well, and your instructions and pictures were fantastic. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


John

I quit tryin today cause my tank is full and I need to drop it. Can you drop the tank all the way down to the ground on the jack?

With no ramps and my build, I can barely reach the connection point with one hand. Pulling the Banks muffler will help, but after spending over 2 hours to replace my Catalytic Converter Downpipe with a Banks downpipe this AM I wasnt going to touch my muffler.

So basically, Im looking at completely dropping the tank to the ground to get at it. Evan on a lift, my big head barely lets me in there far enough to even see the top of the tank.

Yeah, I could not see the top of the tank either....I am 6'5", 240lbs. I had the truck jacked up only at the rear, drivers side. I basically did the fuel line work in the blind, using a small mechanics mirror that is on a extension handle.


I was only able to drop the tank about 3". I did not go through the trouble of disconnecting the fuel filler tube, etc. Between the 3" drop of the tank, and removing the aluminum shield, and the mirror, I was able to get the job done. Your mileage may vary on this one. I will say it was not an easy job, and took be the better part of 1.5 hours dorking around with the top of the tank fitting.


Good luck with it! I went out today on about a 100 mile highway run, and got about 18 mpg at 80 mph. I seem to have picked up about 1 mpg with the filter, it is quieter, and seems to be cleaner at the tailpipe (less smoke). I'm lovin it!


John

Thanks for the info John,

Next weekend Ill get it done. Ill remove the Banks muffler and drop it some, which will give me plenty of room. Ill probably put it on 6 inch blocks after I get the muffler out as well.

At least the bracket is in. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Smile.gif

John-


Just saw this post. Thanks for allowing me to come up and lend a hand... Had a good time and was glad you took the diesel bath instead of me! hehehehehe


It was nice to meet you and hopefully we can hookup again to install my Nick filter once I order it. Could probably knock out that pyro install on your truck as well.


Thanks again for the info on those cd's. The info on them is amazing!!


Bob

Bob,


No problemo! Sounds good. Let me know when you get your kit, and we can set a time for me to come visit you!


Later,


John

John-


Ordered the kit yesterday, will shoot you an email and work out a time for install. Looking at the weekend of 9/27 if you are available.


Bob

Don't know if this is anything you would want to get into, but I worked in the factory as A Mechanic, and any time I worked on the fuel tank and needed top access I removed the box from the truck.


It's really not as bad as it seems.


Remove the fuel neck, unplug tail light harness, Remove the bolts and have A friend help you lift it off, It's an easy job.

Good idea! Hey, maybe I'll get the wife to help. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I am just now able to post on the forums with my new browser (finally)!

This past weekend I installed my filter kit in the "recomended" location & it worked GREAT. It's been running all week with NO problems, leaks or priming issues. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

Since the 3 hr install is fresh on my mind, I thought I would recomend the following:

1) A floor jack so you can drop the fuel tank about 3 - 5". (I did this with 1/2 tank of fuel - no problems when using the floor jack)

2) 1 flexible 17 yr old son/boy & 1 flexible 15 yr old son/boy to bend around corners & tight spaces between muffler & driveshaft, etc. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

3) I also "pre-filled" the Cat filter before I installed it (sucker took almost 1/2 gallon of fuel!).

4) The hose removal kit that Nick recomends is well worth the $12 dollars at the autoparts store.

We took our time on a cool Sat afternoon and got everything finished in about 2 1/2 - 3 hrs with no problems.

With the pre-filled filter, I started the truck & let it idle about 20 min during clean up & then drove off!!! I have not had to prime it yet!!! (happy, happy, joy, joy!!!!) http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Just wanted to add my $0.0002 to the thread!

Thanx,
PDS

Didn't have to prime it? Really? i had a similar experience when i removed the line from the tank to the fuel cooler and then realized i had the wrong parts. I reinstalled the now-empty line, started up the truck and left a few minutes later. didn't prime either!

Has anyone else pre-filled the filter and not had to prime the truck? I guess that makes it even easier to service it when its replacement time Edited by: Diesel Power

Isn't there something wrong with pre filling a filter??? IIRC that is something that George Morrision has spoken out against in the past.





If your installing a filter to filter fuel why would you pre fill it and not let it filter. And yea I know some of you guys fill it by plugging the outlet. We are dealing with very small particles here and I just can beleive you can pre fill it without getting contamination.

FWIW,


I didn't have to prime either. I pre-filled and blocked the center with a brand new hydraulic line cap. If the cap is clean enough for hydraulics, I would assume it's clean enough for fuel which should minimize or eliminate the possibility of contamination when pre-filling. Plus, the fuel would go through the element and also the OEM.


2DAMAX

Not sure what the probem is pre filling a Pre OEM filter. It is not like the fuel will be unfiltered when it gets to the injectors, it still goes through the OEM filter, like it used to before the Pre OEM filter install. Some have made it many miles just using the stock OEM filter. 1/2 gallon that "misses" the CAT filter shouldn't be that big of a deal..
Just my opinion though...
Bob

just installed nicks filter and prefilled the cat filter with fresh diesel and have not had to prime the oem filter.my truck has been running great last couple of days.

i guess i need to update my directions!

Nick,

I don't know if you need to update your instructions, but I DO know that the quality of your product & the fittings you put in the kit directly impacted the relatively short completion time & the "warm fuzzy" feeling I got knowing that all of the fittings would be tight & not leak! Thanks for your work in assembling this kit! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Also, let me clarify something in my previous post. My Cat filter is placed pre-OEM under the drivers side rear wheel well & as such, I felt very comfortable in pre-filling the cat filter. I knew that all of the fuel would at least go through the OEM racor. If I had installed the Cat after the OEM, I would not have pre filled in the manner I did.

Glad you liked it! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

A question...Why not cut the line and plumb the filter?? What is all of this top of the tank stuff. I have never read there being a leakage problem with the current factory fittings. Cut the line and splice the filter between the tank out and the cooler in. What am I missing here??http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

ChevyPackin'Heat,


By not cutting the factory line the system can be returned to the stock configuration if needed. If you cut the line it would have to be replaced (at great cost -- from what I've heard) to restore the system to stock.


Joe

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ouch.gifThe dealer quoted me $140 for the line you are talking about

Thanks Joe and Diesel Pwr,

All in all, I think I will cut it. If I go back to stock either I will splice the two resulting ends back together, or I will get some fuel line and hook up my own. That is essentially what we are doing with the kit. I bet that by splicing into the line the job is a one hour job, and fewer brused knukles and cramped neck mussles.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif

i guess i need to update my directions! This might be a dumb question, but I noticed that a couple of guys on here stated that they had to drop there fuel tanks in order to install there Nicktane filter kits, I was just wondering if it wouldn't be easier to remove the bed bolds and slide the bed back so you can access the top of the fuel tank, I think it would be alot less trouble then going threw the hassle of removing the straps and emptying the tank.

And it probably would be alot easier getting the fuel line off while standing up.

It sounds do-able. Anyone know off-hand how many bolts to undo the bed? Anyone know the bed-bolts torque rating?

I'd suggest that you at least attempt to disconnect the fuel line on top of the tank using the Lisle tool BEFORE going to the trouble of unbolting either the tank or the bed. (don't forget the wiring for the taillights) If you use a floor jack and some jack stands, just lift the truck to the point that you can work under it.


No way would I drop the tank or remove the bed just to remove the fuel line.