Im looking to get into a new truck, . . . well maybe.

Just wondering what others paid for their truck before taxes.

I am looking for a 2011 Crew Cab, Dually LTZ, D/A. Only the options that come standard with leather, no fancy GPS/radio etc.

id like to know MSRP and what you actually paid for it out the door.

thanks,

If you give us MSRP we can run some math and tell you what you should pay...

Msrp of the 2011 I'm looking at is 57k. Its a 2500hd crew cab long bed ltz. What should I pay for it? Keep in mind I'm trading my 2006 in on it. Dealer offered me 20 to trade, thats what it books for, and i owe 16k. They took the 3000 rebate off and took a couple thousand off in mark up. Said invoice price was 50 51k so they couldn't go any lower. I don't know if thats what the invoice price really is because they wouldn't show it to me. I'm going through woodhouse Chevy in Omaha and they like to brag about how big woodhouse is but they won't knock any money off anywhere nor will they help me with financing. I've had issues with financing because I've done all my lending with my small town bank and they don't report my credit to all 3 bureaus so I've had enough of them and won't do business with them anymore. And because of that no banks want to do anything loan wise, even with a cosigner anymore. Not even ally. Even tho I have great credit. The only bank willing to financing me on a new truck is ford credit. I can buy a new king ranch and get 10k off the sticker right now but they won't give me anything on my trade in so at the end of the day they are the same price as a new Chevy. They want a ridiculous amount out of pocket to put down through any bank woodhouse can find that would do it. I don't mean a couple thousand, several thousand. Any advice on what I should do? I really want another duramax, but gm isn't do much to help me out. Hate to say I might have to buy a new powerstroke.

You said you were done with your local bank, did you try other local banks to see if they would give you a loan? Also local credit unions seem to have lower rates than the local banks. At least in this area. Usually to become a member of the credit union is just opening an account and keeping a small balance in it. Also sometimes direct depoist and/or electronic payment of your vehicle loan will reduce the intereste rate slightly.

I've also used capital one on one of my vehicle. I think I used the blank check program. Easiest loan I've ever gotton. A couple minutes on the phone and they sent the check next day. The only problem is not all dealerships take their checks and even less of the used car lots take them.

Good luck.

Found a couple used 2011 chevys with very low miles, one with 15k and the other with 75 miles. Interesting story with the one with 75 miles. The dealer said it was a gm vehicle that they bought on auction from gm. Said it could of been a show truck, or used by a employee, or it was a dealer run over. Has anybody had experience in buying vehicles that were gm owned vehicles?

Msrp of the 2011 I'm looking at is 57k. Its a 2500hd crew cab long bed ltz. What should I pay for it? Keep in mind I'm trading my 2006 in on it. Dealer offered me 20 to trade, thats what it books for, and i owe 16k. They took the 3000 rebate off and took a couple thousand off in mark up. Said invoice price was 50 51k so they couldn't go any lower. I don't know if thats what the invoice price really is because they wouldn't show it to me. I'm going through woodhouse Chevy in Omaha and they like to brag about how big woodhouse is but they won't knock any money off anywhere nor will they help me with financing. I've had issues with financing because I've done all my lending with my small town bank and they don't report my credit to all 3 bureaus so I've had enough of them and won't do business with them anymore. And because of that no banks want to do anything loan wise, even with a cosigner anymore. Not even ally. Even tho I have great credit. The only bank willing to financing me on a new truck is ford credit. I can buy a new king ranch and get 10k off the sticker right now but they won't give me anything on my trade in so at the end of the day they are the same price as a new Chevy. They want a ridiculous amount out of pocket to put down through any bank woodhouse can find that would do it. I don't mean a couple thousand, several thousand. Any advice on what I should do? I really want another duramax, but gm isn't do much to help me out. Hate to say I might have to buy a new powerstroke.

As far as the new truck goes, figure 8% between invoice and MSRP, so if MSRP is $57k, invoice is about $52,440. If he is saying invoice is $50-51k you are in good shape. Then the holdback is 3% of invoice, so another $1710 below invoice is dealers true cost. Add $1,000 to that including the D&H and you have a good deal. Then subtract any rebates. So, $52400-1710+1000=50730. Then subtract rebates, so for a cash deal, subtract $3,005. Your are getting a good deal if you can buy for 48,725. So, end of the day you are $8,275 under MSRP.

As for the used truck this is a moving target - miles, accessories, condition, all make a difference. I suggest going to NADA.com, and get the trade in and Retail values for your exact truck. you are getting a FAIR amount if you are $1,500 under retail book value, even $2,000 would be okay to me. subtract that from the $48,725 and thats what you need to finance.

On the loan, I would suggest going to your local bank that you have a relationship with and getting them to quote you a rate and terms.

Alright, thinking about the used truck. They are asking 47,000 for the truck. It has 358 miles on it. Its a 2011 ltz 3500hd. The dealer bought it on auction according to the dealer. Nada says bottom trade in is 42,575 and retail is 51,125. They offered me 16,500 for my trade in. Bottom trade is 19,300 clean trade is 22,175, and retail is 26,475. One problem is they are 500 miles away from me so trade in is hard to do based on they can't look it over. Only from pictures and my word. Since they bought it on auction I feel like they have some wiggle room on the new truck, and they are 3000 below what bottom trade in is on my truck. Is trade difference of 25,500 reasonable, factoring in I owe 16,500. They offered 16,500 trade, and they didn't take any off the new truck so they were at 30,000 diff.

Alright, thinking about the used truck. They are asking 47,000 for the truck. It has 358 miles on it. Its a 2011 ltz 3500hd. The dealer bought it on auction according to the dealer. Nada says bottom trade in is 42,575 and retail is 51,125. They offered me 16,500 for my trade in. Bottom trade is 19,300 clean trade is 22,175, and retail is 26,475. One problem is they are 500 miles away from me so trade in is hard to do based on they can't look it over. Only from pictures and my word. Since they bought it on auction I feel like they have some wiggle room on the new truck, and they are 3000 below what bottom trade in is on my truck. Is trade difference of 25,500 reasonable, factoring in I owe 16,500. They offered 16,500 trade, and they didn't take any off the new truck so they were at 30,000 diff.

You have to consider both deals spearately. So if they are saying $47,000 for the new truck, negotiate that to as low as you can, but that is one deal, keep that fixed. BTW, the $47k for an LTZ with 358 miles sounds like a good deal if it is fully loaded.

Then, you sort of have to throw them a bone for taking your truck and not makeing you sell it on thier own. They need to make something on the deal, and the place for them to do that is taking the trade at a price that leaves them about $1,500-2,000 of profit assuming they sell and retial book, so based on what you said NADA is, the trade number is $24,475 that is the second deal. So, cash differnece of $22,525. They are not going to be excited about that deal, buit it is a fair and resonable deal for you and for them. You might consider paying a little more than that if you want to get the deal done, rather than sell on your own. AND remember you only pay sales tax on the difference, so doing the trade saves you about $2000 additional when you go to register.

Your completely right on the sales tax. Thats why I'm no wanting to sell my truck out right because you the tax gain. The dealer called me back today and said they would trade for 28,975 diff if we could get something done by the end of the month. I still think personally they could come down some more since I would like to finance the taxes and registration into the deal. If the bank doesn't want to go 72 months on the truck and only is willing to go 60 months the payment will be the same as if I bought a brand new truck off the show room floor with rebates and everything. Thats what my hold back is. It may only have 358 miles on it and its "new" the bank will still look at it as a used truck. The other problem is with the trade in, they aren't going book price, they are calling used car guys on it and auctions to see what its worth thats why they are low balling it.

The truck isn't also loaded up. It doesn't have a few things that would make it a loaded up ltz. Its pretty much a standard ltz truck.