I need to retrieve something from the left rear cylinder (very long bad story). Is this something I can do? Mostly I need to know what, if any, special tools are needed.


I tried to remove the three flange bolts at the back of the exhaust manifold. They are 12 point 12mm. Whose bright idea was that? A 12mm Snap-on wrench isn't long enough to get enough leverage. Put an extension on it and pulled just short of breaking wrench. They must have installed them with an impact with engine not installed.


This is going to be a very long project, as I can't take time off from the 7-6 daily routine.


Any wisdom out there? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

I know when dmaxalliTech did mine, those bolts gave him problems too. I think he used a long box wrench to break them loose. The one in the back is a bugger.

I need to retrieve something from the left rear cylinder (very long bad story).








Inquiring minds want to know.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Please tell us? We will laugh with you and not at you.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif If it makes you fill any better I once installed the adjustable timing set on a 302 out of phase. Sounded like a oil well pump. I have the 3 bent push rods and two broken rocker arms to prove it. I keep them on a special shelve in my garage along with other broken parts. I look at these before I start most projects. It just reminds me that it dosn't pay to be hasty! Edited by: Bronco

Ouch! Some pics of the head and cylinders while yoour at it would be awesome if that is possible!?

I will tell secrets but only if you tell us why you gotta pull it!!!!

OK, just got back home from picking up a rental pos. Here it is. Sent hot juice to JK for attitude upgrade. Installed in overhead and went to install EGT probe in DS exhaust manifold. Drilled hole and was tapping to 1/8" pipe and tap broke off in manifold. OH S**T! Really wasn’t putting much force on it. (Snap-on Blue Point tap.) Tried to take manifold off, see first post. Need truck on Monday so decided to punch broken part into manifold then open up hole for 1/4" pipe to be able to get broken piece out, then use brass 1/4-1/8 bushing for probe install. Couldn't get punch and hammer in to be effective so used rivet hammer with ground down chisel set. Popped the broken piece right in. Drilled out hole and started looking for broken piece. Used magnet on .025 safety wire, and came up with nothing. Went to work and brought home borescope. Looked all around inside manifold. Couldn't find it! Damn! Thought maybe if I fired it up the exhaust would take it down the aft end where the pipe attaches to go up to the turbo. Didn't think at idle it would go up the pipe and I could retrieve it since my hole was right there also. Ran like crap. The only think I can come up with is the piece went into the aft cylinder exhaust port and sat on top of the valve until I started it. Probably bent a valve, damage to head or piston? I am REALLY http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif bumbed!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif Still trying to figure out if I should try it in spare time or not. I try not to do projects like this unless I can do them full time and get it done. On one time projects if I spread it out over too much time reassembley is tougher because I forget how it came apart.

Man I can feel for yah.Hate when what should be a easy job goes bad than everything you touch from there on seems to make it go downhill.Eric should be able to give you some step by step.Good luck and hope it works out without too much grief and money.All diy'ers have been there it sucks but better days ahead.

You are a victim of MURPHYS LAW!

It cannot get into the head. The only place it can go is through the turbo (hot side) and out the exhaust.

You certainly don't want it going through the turbo. You have to get it out.

Bronco, I would LOVE to blame Murphy, and I would never have thought it would go into a port, but the more I think about it, which I do a lot of, I should have taken the manifold off. I'm afraid I just have to accept the consequences.


Now I have to take the manifold off anyways (at least the three flange bolts).

It cannot get into the head. The only place it can go is through the turbo (hot side) and out the exhaust.

You certainly don't want it going through the turbo. You have to get it out.





Why would the truck run like crap then?

Hoot,


I think it is inside the cylinder. It entered from the exhaust manifold into the exhaust port and past one exhaust valve. Why else would it run very poorly? Once it was in the cylinder I think the piston pushed it into a valve bending the valve.


I agree if it was to go down stream from the exhaust manifold the turbo exhaust side is next in line. That is why I was trying to find it in the first place.

Well since we are being honest you could of tried an easy out once the tap broke. Hoot seems to think it is not in your cly. head. Are you sure it is not running bad because the Edge is not set up yet?

The edge shouldn't affect how it runs.

No way to drill the broken tap to try an easy out unless I had a special bit. Taps are the hardest tool I know of.


Also, I did run it with the Edge before I started the EGT probe install, just without the EGT connected, and it ran fine.Edited by: CntrlCalDmax

Its wedged into the turbo vane and not allowing it to spin. The truck would run real bad like that.

Is it making a bad knocking noise or just running bad. If it was in the bore it would be really bad.

You should have just had the broken tap welded in place and started a new hole. I dont think it would have ever moved. Not if it was tight enough to snap it off. You probable could have just brazed it in.Edited by: problemchild

It runs bad just at idle. The turbo isn't spooled up at idle. It should run just fine at idle even with the turbo frozen. I think it knocks but can't really tell. Looking for a Helms manual. Thinking of tackling it myself. Is there a special tool for injector removal?

Wouldn't it run poor if the turbo was jammed from the broken piece? There would have to be some restriction wouldn't there?

This is a depressing story. I really feel for you CntrlCal. It just really sucks bad when things like this happen. I just talked to my mechanic about getting out broken taps the other day. There are several ways, but what's done is done. Good luck. Wish I could help.


Josh


Edit: I removed the manifold when I tapped for the EGT probe. Those bolts are tough. I remember I got the ratchet on that inner one that's a pain to get at, and I had no way of turning it. So, I actually put a piece of rope around the handle of the ratchet and pulled on it out through the wheel well. It worked.Edited by: Smitty

Why not just take the exhaust manifold off and see.....you could be OK. I would never have started that truck not knowing......


How do you know it ran poorly....sounds stupid I know....but did you drive it? The poor "sounding" truck could be from having a 1/4 inch hole that is not supposed to be there....take the manifold off before worrying any further.

I think Hoot is right.....I doubt it could have gotten in the valve either...think about it. First time that cylinder is filling with air....serious amount of pressure coming out around that valve.....I highly doubt it got in there.....but I could be wrong. Add to that it would have traveled up hill to get in there......

ditto dipper

Wouldn't it run poor if the turbo was jammed from the broken piece? There would have to be some restriction wouldn't there?


It would run poor in the sense that there would be a lack of power above idle as you would be running normally aspirated. The turbo is used to boost atmospheric pressure at higher than idle power. Check a boost gauge at idle. It reads zero. The low air flow required at idle can easly pass through the compressor vanes.

How do you know it ran poorly....sounds stupid I know....but did you drive it? The poor "sounding" truck could be from having a 1/4 inch hole that is not supposed to be there....take the manifold off before worrying any further.





I plugged the hole and ran it for 4-5 seconds. I've had this truck for 74,000 miles and drive it daily. It runs bad. The broken piece isn't in the manifold. I've looked inside full length. I've even looked on top of one of the exhaust valves but couldn't see anything wrong. Maybe it damaged the other one. I couldn't get the scope to go into the other exhaust port.


I'll let you know when the head is off.

I think Hoot is right.....I doubt it could have gotten in the valve either...think about it. First time that cylinder is filling with air....serious amount of pressure coming out around that valve.....I highly doubt it got in there.....but I could be wrong. Add to that it would have traveled up hill to get in there......





Unless that valve was open when it landed. With my luck, who knows?


BTW, I do hope you're right, but I don't think so.Edited by: CntrlCalDmax

Wouldn't it be wise to start by taking the exhaust manifold off first? Maybe I missed it and you alread did that.

Dipper and Max Power are right. I'll get the manifold off first.

Hey bud,


Sorry to hear about your situation! Just my two cents here...Do you think it is running bad because the turbo is stopped/wedged and this is causing a severe restriction of the exhaust system. Pressure builds up and then every time an exhaust valve opens burnt gases either rush into the different cylinders and pressurize the intake tract or just plain dilute the incoming charge so that the truck runs horribly.


As you said before an idling truck produces no boost but the turbo IS spinning and allowing the exhaust gasses to escape out the tail pipe.


IMHO pull the turbo for a look see. Easier than the head.

There is always a certain amount of reversion on any exaust valve. Enough to suck up a piece of tap, who knows. I had a friend who dropped a very small screw from the top of hic carter carburator. That little srew made more noise in the engine then you could ever imagine. It ran fine and he took it out a week later. Left an enormous amount of tiny little dents in the combustion chamber. Good luck!

One other place....I know you looked with the bore scope and all, but the ripples in the pipe in the turn going to the turbo........could be laying there. I don't think the piece could have made it to the turbo without the truck making some boost......

Sucks ......





Best part all them things ,manifold ,turbo have to come off before the head anyway ... Hopefully you find the piece (how big was it ?) prior to getting in as deep as the heads ...


Your biggest problem will be re torque the heads ... They ,GM techs,have a very exspensive tool for that job ....


Good luck





Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

Pull the exhaust manifold.

From there the piece would have to travel to the back and then go up to the turbo... yes the turbo sits a lot higher than the rear of the exhaust manifolds.

If you didn't rev up the truck and drive it I would wonder if the piece got up into the turbo.

You do not have to remove the turbo to remove a head.... notice the pipes going "up" to the turbo in the back.


http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/headgaskets/images/DSCN4570.jpgEdited by: hoot

Well I guess you don't remove the turbo .... Why would the exhaust port suck in I would believe it would blow out ?? This is why the majority believe it went out not in the head ....


The only puzzle is truck ran like crap ... The hole in the manifold wouldn't case it as most drill with truck idling anyway ....


Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

CntrlCalDmax,


From your posts, it sounds like you're an A&P?


You should know better than to work on this stuff......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif


I think from what you've described, you're on the right track. But I'd be pulling the exhaust manifold and give the head and piping a good look see with the bore scope.


Only other thing I'd suggest, you've got to pull the intake before you can get to the head, I'd bore scope the intake side and valve before I yanked the head. If you've got access to a good scope, you might be able to verify whether or not the piece is in the cylinder or there is damage to either the exhaust or intake valves.There's also the possibility you might consider pulling the rocker cover and removing the injector for that cylinder before pulling the intake manifold... I don't know what diameter the injectors for these are, but if you could get the scope through the injector hole?


The other bad part of this is if that piece of tap got into the combustion chamber while it was running, you may have another problem to deal with. I had "someone" drop a small piece of hardware down the carb of a rat motor one time on my '55 Chevy. Banged up the head, valves were okay, piston didn't really look damaged. Got the head milled and put everything back together and it had a knock.


Turned out the ring lands had been compressed by the pressure of the bolt against the head and the top of the piston, pinching the rings in one spot. So IF you do find something in the combustion chamber, you may have additional damage to the piston et al.....


Good luck.Edited by: Zeeb

Seeing as how you just upgraded to the attitude, perhaps something is not right with the electrical connections? Bad box? I'd try disconnecting the juice, if that was the first start after hooking it up.


Perhaps the better question would be, was it running fine when you shut it off, before the tapping incident? Or did you shut off truck, hook up new box and drill manifold? See where I'm going with this?


Sounds dumb, but sometimes it's something REALLY stupid.


Ty

It runs bad just at idle. The turbo isn't spooled up at idle. It should run just fine at idle even with the turbo frozen. I think it knocks but can't really tell. Looking for a Helms manual. Thinking of tackling it myself. Is there a special tool for injector removal?





If the turbo is frozen or damaged it will not run right, not even at idle.


You said you revved it up a little right? It won't take much to blow a small piece of metal thru those pipes into the turbo.I would take a good close look at it.

pull at the glow plugs use the boroscope to take a look into the cylinders. take the turbo inlet off your air box tube and spin the turbo turbine for movement and pull in and out ont it for play. you should have a little play in and out, up and down. the ex manifold comes off ok its a little tight but once it breaks it will come right out. take you inner fender splash shield out it will help you gan access. removing the head is no different than as gas motor , just more to remove and more in the way. you would not have to remove the injectors to remove the head. and you donr have to remove the turbo as seen in hoots picture. if you decide to remove it pick a time and lets us all know and maybe we can walk you through it. best thing to do is get it cleaned up and all if any damage fixed and so if you ever have future problems and a warranty issue came up it would look as if you did not screw it all up. get the picture.i hate to say it but i may br a long road and remember to keep the old head gsk. to get a correct onr replaced there are 3 sizes. and if the piston is to come out and need replacement you will have to resize the head gsk. once you asses your damage let me know i am in oregon and yet your so far i yould try to help you through my dealer cost on parts... i get all at 10% over gm cost.i do have a set of injector sleeves and turbo seals. one vlv cover gsk and some other seals, at home from other warranty jobs. let me know i will try to help.

pull at the glow plugs use the boroscope to take a look into the cylinders. . Pat, you ever tried to look into those little holes at the end of the glow plug hole??? You have good eyes my son! I cant hardly see the actual hole into the chamber with a pen light, let alone see the cyls. Oh well. I need glasses to pee toohttp://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

no i have never looked into the hole but have pulled on glow plug out that had a bad injector and before i tore the vlv covers off ifor giggles i did as tach stated to pull the plug crank the motor a watch for fuel. i had the plug out and was standing in font of the hold had the lube kid crank the motor. and diesel spraied all over me like a dam skunk. so what i ment was to ues the hole to put the boroscopr in and take a look.
dmaxallitach glad your back...

To answer some questions, it ran fine just after installing the Attitude without the EGT probe. I don't think the piece was SUCKED into the exhaust port, rather it shot up into it when I knocked it into the manifold with my air hammer without the engine running. I thought it would wind up in the manifold but I think it flew into an exhaust port and laid on the exhaust valve or if the valve was open fell into the cylinder. It's the only explaination I come up with for the symptoms. I've been up the pipe to the turbo about 6" with a magnet and didn't find much.


Does anyone, Hoot, have pictures of the head showing the glow plug port? I've not found where they are installed. Can I get a borescope through the glow plug or injector ports? I think the borescope is 11mm. Not sure about that but it is less than 3/16" dia.


Zeeb, I hope the crushed ring land isn't a problem but thanks for bringing it up. One problem I hadn't thought of.


Patrick, thanks for the offer. If I go it myself I will contact you. Still not sure which way I will go. I will make some calls today to a couple of shops and see if the answers to my questions give me some confidence. I really don't have time to do it myself.


I'm hoping to find a shop that will let me come in with the borescope after removal of some items and look around before proceeding. I really don't want to disassemble any further than necessary, even though I still think the head has to come off.Edited by: CntrlCalDmax

Why not pull the Manifold of before too much more speculating. I would think you could easily do this in a couple hours time. Then you would pretty much know where to go. Maybe I am missing something but I think that is what I would do in your situation. I think I would have done that before starting after you knocked the tap inside. I bet your kicking yourself now. I feel for you. Sounds like you and I have similar luck.

I know questions keep the hype going, but does anyone know what the valve lift on this engine is? How big was the piece of tap? Have to be at BDC and pretty big lift numbers to find it's way past an open valve?

My guess is it is about the last 1/4" of the tap. A couple of things though, it may have shattered when I hit it with the air hammer and, hopefully, it may just be wedged between the valve and seat. At least this way the head won't be buggered up, just the piston and valve. As much as I can tell when I did run it it kinda sounds like I would expect a stuck open valve to sound.

The only place a foreign object can reside is the top of the piston. It would fall out of the valve opening. Did you hit anything behind your tap with that chisel? When do you plan on doing a visual inspection?

Bronco,


Don't you tnink because of the shape of the tap, with the flutes, that it could wedge in the valve. If the piece is larger than what the valve opens, it could fall partially through and lodge there. I just don't know. I'm calling the shops right now.

Pull the exhaust manifold already http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif Take it from there.

Be nice now. I'm just learning to enjoy this insanity thing.

whats the saying "it sucks to be you" I feel for you

OK, found a diesel shop that answered my questions on the phone. Truck is on a tiltbed headed to the shop. Problem is, that shop is 60 miles from mine so it will be hard to check in very often. I made it very clear that whatever they find, I want to see it before reassembly.

A stalled turbo CAN impose quite a restriction. I'd suggest a couple of things:





1) Remove the Juice. Never know, they can get moody.


2) remove the turbo inlet elbow, and see if the wheel turns.


If knocked a piece into the cylinder and caused damage, there should be a distinctive miss when that cylinder hits. This may be possible to isolate with a cylinder power balance test.





If your guys are good, they can pull the center section of the turbo without pulling anything else. It takes patience, skill, relatively skinny fingers, and a modified 12mm wrench.





I'll send a pic via email.





If you end up needing a turbo, I know a guy who has a few http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif

Broken tap removal tool.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A67_waltap.jpg

Broken tap removal tool.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A67_waltap.jpg





A day late, a dollar short http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif

just posted to let people know they are available. you know, just in case.

good luck sorry to hear of all the mess. i agree the quick and easy way is to pull the exh manifold 3 bolts at the torbo tube and the remaining bolta to the ports.a nd the glow plugs are like in the position of triditonal spark plugs..

Is it possible to check compression on one of these engines, I think this should show a valve problem, an if that piece is in the cylinder it should be knocking so loud that a deaf person can here it. my guess is he will find it when manifold is off.


Geno

I didn't want to do this here or now but I will.


When you tap, the tap comes with a required drill size to be used for a pilot hole. I like to start with an even smaller drill bit than the one that matches the tap. Drill your small hole first and then your required tap drill hole. Use cutting fluid or motor oil genrously on your tap. Only thread your tap in a small amount then remove completely from the hole. Wash off the tap. Repeat this process 6 or 7 times even for shallow holes. This is how you tap. I know on the Dmax there are resrictions such as leaving the engine running and putting grease on the tap to keep the shavings stuck to the tap and there also clearance issues as well. I just thought I would mention how to tap in case some people are getting scared to even install just an EGT probe and gauge. I know this thread, has made me wonder if it is worth the hassle.


ON EDIT: It is metal shavings you are cleaning off of the tap every time you remove it. This keeps the tap turning freely. If you do not clean the threads they fill up and jam. If it is really hard to turn the tap you need to clean your threads. Taps are strong but have atendancy to be brittle. I have snapped a few my self!Edited by: Bronco

Keep us posted and upload some pics of the damage.
Sorry for the problems.......

I believe someone posted on here that you should use the "R" drill bit and not a 5/16" for drilling the tap hole for that 1/8 pipe fitting?? What did you use Leo? Not being critical. Just don't want to repeat this for myself.


Who makes the best taps? I'm getting a little gun shy here myself.


Thanks for the tips Bronco.

gwmayes,


I did the juice/attitude EGT probe last weekend. I started out with a cheap tap set that I had laying around. DO NOT USE A CHEAP TAP. After messing with the cheap one and realizing it just wasn't working well and I didn't want to risk messing anything up, I ran to Sears and bought a Craftsman tap and ratcheting handle. I think the total was like $14. It worked great and threaded like butter. Five minutes later I was done.

Here are the pics of my head gasket replacement. Maybe some will be helpful.


http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1072833&uid=437876

I believe someone posted on here that you should use the "R" drill bit and not a 5/16" for drilling the tap hole for that 1/8 pipe fitting?? What did you use Leo? Not being critical. Just don't want to repeat this for myself.


Against my better judgement I used a 5/16. Didn't have a R bit at home. I do use a tap properly. Flushed with LPS2 every removal and reinsert. This one broke with very little pressure. It's the same tap I used to install the probe in the right manifold. This whole mess has been against my better judgement but sometimes thinking you have to get a job done by a certain time clouds the judgement process.


Thanks for the pictures Maverick

Sounds like a product liability case - defective tap! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif Really sorry to hear of your problem - wish I could be of help.

My tap drill charts are at the shop, so I can't look it up, but after 38 years as a machinist, I seem to remember that 11/32 is the correct drill size for 1/8 NTP.


I'm going over tp shop after while, and I'll check. If it is different I'll post the correct size.

Cntrlcaldmax,


I in no way was insinuating that you did not know how to tap. I was more or less reassurring myself and other newbies that it could be accomplished. If I just came onto this site and this is the first thread I read, I would burn my computer and never look back. You had an accident. Haste makes waste. Brittle taps just snap. Did I ever tell you about the time I put a set of head gaskets on backwards?

Cntrlcaldmax,


I in no way was insinuating that you did not know how to tap.


I didn't take it that way, just trying to let people know that s**t happens even when your trying to be careful.

i think it may be stopping up a fuel line

WHAT!!!??? Edited by: Bronco

i think it may be stopping up a fuel line


hahaha, Those damn fuel lines in the exhaust manifold will get you ever time! http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif


CntrlCalDmax, what is the latest word?Edited by: Max Power

No word yet. Shop was too busy today to touch it. I didn't have a schedule and am just a work in.

You would be sleeping better at night if you had listened to us and pulled the exhaust manifold off first. http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif J/K I hope everything works out well for you.

My tap drill charts are at the shop, so I can't look it up, but after 38 years as a machinist, I seem to remember that 11/32 is the correct drill size for 1/8 NTP.


I'm going over tp shop after while, and I'll check. If it is different I'll post the correct size.








Yep, your memory serves well. Truth be told, most taps have a drill size recommendation on the packaging, and some on the shank.





11/32 and 21/64ths are the common ones that I have seen, although I have seen 5/16ths as well.





I've done all of my Dmax installs bone dry, and haven't had any problems. The chips blow out nicely, and cast taps quite easily. I'm guessing that CentralCal's problem may have stemmed from the awkward access to the manifold making it hard to get a good rotational force without side loading the tap.





I typically use a 12pt socket and ratchet whenever I can. Just need 2 hands to stabilize out the side loading.

JK,


How far in front of the flange is a good place to drill and tap on the driver's side manifold. I was thinking straight up from the bottom, about 1" in front of the flange?


I recall that picture on your Web Site that shows the manifold on the driver's side has a really serious constriction in this area and really thick casting??


Leo. Yep, been there done that. My first goof was milling the head of an old Ford Flat Head. Luckily, something told me to try and turn it over by hand. Clunk!!! Don't remember what that new head cost me, but in those days (yeh, I'm ancient) it was ASTRONOMICAL.

Looking at my spare DS manifold, I would say drilling between flange and heat shield, just above center, (didn’t have time to verify if this area is accessible with manifold installed). That position is directly opposite cylinder #8.
If in doubt, remove the manifold, (working through the wheel well with wheel removed), and all questions will be verified before drilling.
Yes, the DS manifold is restricted about 50%, opposite cylinder #6. The casting isn’t any thicker, just restricting.

I'll have to look and see, but what Modified said sounds correct.


Just a suggestion: I know there is a desire to read both banks and all, but it wouldn't hurt to drop a second probe in the RH manifold.

For 1/8" tap my Machinery's Handbook which is the machinists bible calls for .339" "R" drill. The two John Kennedy mentioned will work also as they are very close.

Plenty of info here (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=946&PN=1)

hmhmmm?? my Starrett tap drill chart says 11/32 for 1/8th NPT?? Thats a whole whopping .005 smaller than the R drill. I beleive i used the 5-16 when i tapped my exhaust, it still worked fine

Well, my 26th edition of Machinery's Handbook says:


1/8 pipe tap - 11/32" for Briggs Pipe Taps and 5/16" for Whitworth Pipe Taps.


It ALSO says as a footnote to the Tap Drills for Pipe Taps table:


"To secure the best results, the hole should be reamed before tapping with a reamer having a taper of 3/4 inch per foot."http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

Starrett chart in hand....

1/8-27........ "R"


Also.... do a search on google using "tap drill size for 1/8-27"

I could not find one that did not list "R" as the drill.

www.engineersedge.com (http://www.engineersedge.com/tap_drill_chart.htm)

www.newmantools.com (http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm)

www.thedirtforum.com (http://www.thedirtforum.com/drilltapsizes.htm)

But Tom... I was wrong about the Machinery Handbook. I could not find a reasonable chart except the one you mentioned. That chart is vague.

Anyway... I got carried away here. As long as you're within .010 or .015" or so you'll be ok.

Using a hand held drill motor to drill an exhaust manifold, you won't be able to driil all that accurately anyhow and these drills are all close in size, except the 5/16 is a mite small, and could have contributed to the broken tap. I've tapped literally hundreds of 1/8 NPT holes over the years, and you have to use some common sense, tempered with experience, as to tap drill with any tapered pipe threads, considering material, thickness, desired depth of fitting when tight, and usage.


But I think we have all lost sight of the original post. WHERE IN THE HELL IS THAT PIECE OF BROKEN TAP? Did they find anything yet? I once saw a 1 year old small block chev 283 totally destroyed by one of those tiny screws that fasten the throttle butterflies to the throttle shaft. Or at least that is what was decided, as one screw was missing and nothing else had been done to cause such massive FOD.

Exhaust manifold is off. Nothing inside. The exhaust valves will not hold solvent poured in the port. Maybe bent valve but not conclusive. They tell me the head will be off late today.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif I'll check it out tonight or in the morning. Will advise.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

Exhaust manifold is off. Nothing inside. The exhaust valves will not hold solvent poured in the port. Maybe bent valve but not conclusive. They tell me the head will be off late today.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif I'll check it out tonight or in the morning. Will advise.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

When closed? What port?

If a chunk of metal went from your exhaust manifold INTO your head/valves... that would be against all odds and the ultimate Murphy.

Good luck... hope it turns out for the better.

Can someone associated with a dealer tell me what the sugested hourly flat rate labor is for a single head gasket replace on a 6.6?

Dude what were you thinking when your right brain said "if I start the truck it would blow the piece out the tailpipe with no damage? :)

Keep us posted...

Dude what were you thinking when your right brain said "if I start the truck it would blow the piece out the tailpipe with no damage? :)

Keep us posted...


When did I say that?! Please read my post again. I never expected nor wanted the piece to make it up the pipe from the manifold to the turbo, go through the turbo and out the tail pipe.


On Edit: Here is what I said. "Thought maybe if I fired it up the exhaust would take it down the aft end where the pipe attaches to go up to the turbo. Didn't think at idle it would go up the pipe and I could retrieve it since my hole was right there also."Edited by: CntrlCalDmax

Somethin smells fishy!

Can someone associated with a dealer tell me what the sugested hourly flat rate labor is for a single head gasket replace on a 6.6? I would say you would be in the neighbor hood of 20 hours. I believe warr time on one is 17ish and both is 25 ish.

Thanks Eric. Really hope to see something today. Waiting for a call back. Shop has a really good reputation but very lacking on communication skills. I will not go back no matter how good the job is.

If I asked you to pull the drivers side head which one would you pull?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

If I asked you to pull the drivers side head which one would you pull?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif


Your kidding right? Don't tell me they pulled the passenger side head? No wonder they didn't find anything in the exhaust manifold!

I can't believe it wrong side.Now you got more problems "expense" before you get to the problem.Feel for yah buddy it sucks.

If I asked you to pull the drivers side head which one would you pull?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif


Your kidding right? Don't tell me they pulled the passenger side head? No wonder they didn't find anything in the exhaust manifold!


You got it! Sorry, too PO'd to type much!

Sh!t happens. I am sorry to hear this. It is amazing how fast a bad situation can get worse. On the bright side, it could be worse yet. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

OK, feeling better. What the heck, TWO new head gaskets is worth something.

Should have told them to





"pull the side that has a fuggin hole drilled in the exhaust manifold with nothing in the hole....."

Should have told them to





"pull the side that has a fuggin hole drilled in the exhaust manifold with nothing in the hole....."








Hint hint !!!





Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

So where is the missing Part????http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


T Cosgrove

If it were my truck they'd be pulling something out of their a%@! Geez, what a bummer. First I'd ask them if they know driver's side from passengers side ...then ask them if they know their a%@ from a hole in the ground.

If it were my truck they'd be pulling something out of their a%@! Geez, what a bummer. First I'd ask them if they know driver's side from passengers side ...then ask them if they know their a%@ from a hole in the ground. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


yeah, what tophog said, ONLY I would wait until their done and it runs

This whole topic ...... not sure what to make of it.

Break the tap in the exhaust manifold
Start the truck up
Tap piece dissapears and truck runs bad
Dealer removes wrong head.

What's next? They put the headgaskets on wrong?

Guess @ this point, I'd ask them if they had malpractice ins.

CntrlCalDmax,


Did you break a mirror recently? Black cat cross your path? Spill some salt and not throw some over your shoulder? I sure hope things get better for you real soon! Keep the faith brother!


There's got to be a light at the end of the tunnel. However with your luck, I just hope it's not a train!

CntrlCalDmax,


Did you break a mirror recently? Black cat cross your path? Spill some salt and not throw some over your shoulder? I sure hope things get better for you real soon! Keep the faith brother! .............





Not just any ol' shoulder but gotta be the LEFT shoulder.

Myself I would have paid the premium labor fees and purchased all my own parts and went to a GM dealer for repair ...


The shop working on YOUR truck maybe best mechanics on diesels in your area but they no squat and have never taken a Duramax apart or put one back together ...


Yes, the fundamentals of R and R and diesel engines are there but GM manuals GM spacific tools and such aren't there ...


Could very well be learn as you go ...


I wouldn't trust any shop with this type of repair on an engine that is only 4 years young ... Many GM service centers haven't a clue still today ...


Good luck and I hope it turns out in your favor ...





Mac Edited by: Mackin

i missed it is your truck at a dealer or independent shop.i second dmaxallitech about 17 for one and 22 of two. this i beleave is gm warranty time.

OK, if this situation could get worse I'd be very suprised. Need to pull the engine to replace the piston. Head has to go too. Pictures tonight. Does anyone know if long blocks are available and how much?

OUCH http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif


You might want to PM Dmaxtech and ask him what a new long block runs, but you better be sitting down with a strong drink.


You might want to contact your insurance agent and see if something like this is covered by it.... I wouldn't think so, but you never know.


You might ask your agent if he knows a contact at the place where the insurance companys auction off their "totaled vehicles". Give them a ring and tell them what you are looking for and see if they can help you out.


Last place would be to contact a salvage yard that specializes in late model trucks and has a nation wide search capability to look for a DMAX engine. They are out there as we see them pop up on e-bay from time to time as well as diesel forums such as this one.


Put the word out on as many diesel and truck sites as you can find and see if anyone has a lead on one.


I wish you the best.


If they are going to rebuild your existing motor, have the connecting rod checked for straightness before they re-use it. My advise would be to put in a new rod, bearings, piston, rings, etc. Also have the crank checked for any damage.

When I worked in the heavy duty truck end of the business at GM we had A 3208 Caterpillar that had ingested A very small bolt, and it destroyed the engine.


Made A lot of noise and was shut right down


Beat the piston to the point that it expanded and cracked the block.


The whole engine was junk.


This all happened at the end of the assembly line on first start up, engine ran 5 seconds max.

Check out Schram's auto parts in Waterford, MI. They are full of all sorts of late model parts and normally have a couple of DMAXs and allisons around. Their number is:



<TABLE id=ypResultAll cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width=750>
<T>
<TR>
<TD>


Schram Auto &amp; Truck Parts (http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypMap.py?Pyt=Typ&amp;tuid=20929413&amp;ck=3631231387&amp;tab=B 2C&amp;tcat=24631386&amp;city=Waterford&amp;state=MI&amp;country=u s&amp;msa=2160&amp;cs=4&amp;ed=pBTU261o2TyfALNEeBMjKBLqcFKifto MpP1r5qkSErva&amp;stat=:pos:0:regular:regT:1:fbT:0)(24 8) 673-5700 2549 Dixie Hwy Waterford, MI </TD>
<TD>
</TD></TR></T></TABLE>

if the cylinder wall is not messed up you dont have to pull the motor for one piston... take the front diff out takes 1.0 hr max if they do them often it only takes 15 min or so.... get the diff out of the way and the upper oil pan can come off.whats wrong with the head.... if i remember a head is about $700 dallars or so. good luck at a wrecking yard...again if you need help on parts prices let me know...is going to be spendy the way your headed.. i would try to do the best to replace only broken parts and get it together and go drive it, run the piss out of it if it blows up take it to another dealer.all in all you messed it up but it can be fixed if the block is ok..

Patrick, thanks for all your offers. I don't think the shop is going to charge for pulling the PS head. If they don't, I feel obligated to purchase all the parts from them and let them make a profit on the parts sale. It's a lousy deal for them too at this point. I really appreciate your comments on not pulling the engine. I will pass that information along. What do you mean by "upper" oil pan? Here are a couple of pictures.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/D7B_head.jpg





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A6E_piston.jpg

Put it back together, hope it runs decent and sell it to some sucker. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif I am sure it has crossed your mind. Too bad some of us have a conscience.

Put it back together, hope it runs decent and sell it to some sucker. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif I am sure it has crossed your mind. Too bad some of us have a conscience.


I will probably do the sell it part, but I will do my best to fix it right first even thought it will be VERY expensive. I just won't have the confidence in it to haul my family across the country ocean to ocean towing 10-11K#. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

<DIV>WOW, that sucks, I can't believe that broken tap in the exhaust manifold could go up hill and get into the cylinder, just don't make sense.</DIV>
<DIV>Do these guys that are working have any explication how this could happen?</DIV>

I once have a valve retainer let go, causing the valve to hit a piston, break off, and then proceed to destroy the head, and severly damage the top of the piston. The damage was significantly more than what is shown in the above pictures. I had to replace the head, but I was poor at the time, and couldn't afford to redo the bottom end, so I smoothed down the top of the piston to eliminate hot spots, and put it all back together with the bad piston still in it. 10 years and 100,000 miles later, it was still running strong.


If I were you, I would smooth down both the head and the piston, put it back together, and start saving for a new engine. If your lucky, you'll never need the money you saved up, and you can put it in the stock market.

OK, if this situation could get worse I'd be very suprised. Need to pull the engine to replace the piston. Head has to go too. Pictures tonight. Does anyone know if long blocks are available and how much?


engine can be had for around 9k.


Either have to pull engine or trans to get oil pan off, the lower tin pan will come off no problem, but to pull the upper pan, against the block, gotta get the trans and flywheel housing out of the way..

I once have a valve retainer let go, causing the valve to hit a piston, break off, and then proceed to destroy the head, and severly damage the top of the piston. The damage was significantly more than what is shown in the above pictures. I had to replace the head, but I was poor at the time, and couldn't afford to redo the bottom end, so I smoothed down the top of the piston to eliminate hot spots, and put it all back together with the bad piston still in it. 10 years and 100,000 miles later, it was still running strong.


If I were you, I would smooth down both the head and the piston, put it back together, and start saving for a new engine. If your lucky, you'll never need the money you saved up, and you can put it in the stock market.





I can see this on a gas motor but not a diesel. Especially with the added power boxes.

If your a do it yourselfer, there is nothing to loose except the cost of a few gaskets. If it doesn't work out, you can pull the motor and do it right. If you are paying someone else to do it, then its probably not a good idea to pay for labor twice.

Did they find all of the pieces of the tap in the cylinder? Reason I ask is did they check the turbo out to make sure that none of the blades got damaged by anything that went up to the turbo. You don't want to put it together and have an out of balance turbo come apart and ruin it all over again.


BTW, is this shop a GM dealership or an independent shop?

I am the last person to cheap out but, If I were you... I would take my chances and do what Amric suggested. 9g is a lot of money. What do you have to lose? But I know where your coming from too. What a bad situation.



Have you checked with your insurance company?

Did they find all of the pieces of the tap in the cylinder? Reason I ask is did they check the turbo out to make sure that none of the blades got damaged by anything that went up to the turbo. You don't want to put it together and have an out of balance turbo come apart and ruin it all over again.


BTW, is this shop a GM dealership or an independent shop?


Turbo is fine. Nothing went through it. The piece ricochet into the exhaust port and went back throught the exhaust valve. Many seem to have a hard time believing this, but that is what happened. (Not directed at you Searay90.)


It's an independent shop. I wanted to preserve the last 25,000 miles of warranty incase I needed injectors replaced. I figured if I went to a GM shop all remaining warranty would be lost. At this point it dosen't seem to matter much.Edited by: CntrlCalDmax

cylinder looks ok in the picture.....can you see any damage in the cylinder and what does the head look like...if the turbo is ok your one up ......

Remind the shop to keep the old head gaskets and remember which one came off which side of the truck. IIRC, Eric (DMAXTECH) and Patrick have both mentioned that there are 3 different thickness's of head gaskets for the DMAX and the are determined at initial assembly based on deck height of the block. I don't know if putting a new head on the one side will require a different thickness head gasket or not. But you want to make sure that the correct one of the three choices goes back on the truck.


Eric or Patrick........ please advise on the above issue.


on the subject of how the tap got in there.... Yes the planets must have been in perfect allignment for it to happen, but with both exhaust valves open, and the force of the air hammer needed to dislodge that tap........ Hell yes it could have made it into the combustion chamber. But the odds are probably about the same of winning the lottery.....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif but someone actually does win those. Maybe you should go out and purchase a couple of lottery tickets http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif





Edited by: Searay90

Remind the shop to keep the old head gaskets and remember which one came off which side of the truck. IIRC, Eric (DMAXTECH) and Patrick have both mentioned that there are 3 different thickness's of head gaskets for the DMAX and the are determined at initial assembly based on deck height of the block. I don't know if putting a new head on the one side will require a different thickness head gasket or not. But you want to make sure that the correct one of the three choices goes back on the truck.


I think the gaskets go with the piston to block deck height and not with the head. The head looks flat with little or no combustion chamber contour. May be I'm wrong here, someone?

CntrlCalDmax,


Sorry to hear your fears were confirmed, but it sure sounded like you had the problem figured out early on.


Seems strange to me that you couldn't get that piston out without removing the engine, but from what Eric wrote, it sounds like a pain. I certainly wouldn't put it back together without looking at that piston due to the possible problem we talked about earlier.


Good luck and I hope it doesn't get too spendy......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

man oh man ...........it just makes me want to throw up....jeesh hope it all turns out good....good luck, dave

Remind the shop to keep the old head gaskets and remember which one came off which side of the truck. IIRC, Eric (DMAXTECH) and Patrick have both mentioned that there are 3 different thickness's of head gaskets for the DMAX and the are determined at initial assembly based on deck height of the block. I don't know if putting a new head on the one side will require a different thickness head gasket or not. But you want to make sure that the correct one of the three choices goes back on the truck.


I think the gaskets go with the piston to block deck height and not with the head. The head looks flat with little or no combustion chamber contour. May be I'm wrong here, someone?

Without a headgasket the piston will slam the head. There a three different thickness headgaskets. The original gaskets are identified by holes punched in them or you can put the pistons at TDC and measure how far they protrude above the block. Mine protruded about .015"

I got to say I hate how this has turned out. CntrlCalDmax without a doubt you must have my luck. I did breaks last weekend on my wifes Taho and both blead screws were rusted solid into the calipar. One broke and the other one rounded off. Not to mention the broken wheel lug. Anyone want to start a trust fund or something to help this fellow out?

CntrlCalDmax,


Based on the pics you posted I don't see any damage to the cylinder wall. I would really heed some of the previous advice and clean the piston up, and put it back together. The piston could be a whole lot worse. I think you can clean up the piston, and it will run ok. Then, if you feel unsure, sell it. I really don't think you need to spend 10k fixing a truck only to sell it. Only spend the money if you plan to keep it. By all means be honest with whomever you might sell it to, but don't spend the money.


My 2¢
Bill
Good Luck whatever you decide!

The head doesn’t look that bad, nether dos the piston, if the boar is ok (and by the pic I think it is) I would have the head presser checked for cracks. If the head is ok I would replace all four valves and have the guides checked. If the piston is ok (IE not cracked) have it smoothed out, have the head smoothed to. Have the valve train and rockers inspected for damage. Reassemble the engine, and have them tap the exhaust manifold before it is installed in the truck.http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Then drive and enjoy your truck!http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

I hade a 7/16” nut get sucked into the number 3 cylinder on a 300 I6 after removing the head I found it embedded in the piston, my piston and head look like yours in the pics. I removed the nut, smoothed the head and piston with a grinder the polished with emery cloth. I hade to replace one valve and a pushrod. I reassembled the engine and it ran fine for the three years my family owned the truck.


Tom Cathttp://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

PS. I would not pay for the removal of the wrong head!http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

if you replace the head you can use the same thickness of gasket you only need to remeasure the gasket if you replace a piston, rod or bearings.if the bore is ok and the head is ok get it back together. if you plan on keeping it i would replace the piston...

CntrlCalDmax,


I found a long block on ebay for $6000.00


"2001 Duramax diesel engine long block remanufactured to factory specs. Engine comes with a 2/24,000 warranty "


ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=33615&amp;item=2458108 122)Edited by: DIESEL 5

I'd have to agree with what others have said. Smooth out the burrs on the piston and head to avoid burning holes through either and put it back together. From the pics I'd say at the most replace the piston and head if you don't trust the smooth over. I've seen a V16 detroit diesel at tear down that run for a year and a half with a 1/4 bolt w/ the nut and washers on it in the top of the piston. The guys that ran it said it made some weird noises now and then, but that was it. You mat be surprised at how beat up some things can be and still run good...

Ox

Hey CntrlCalDmax.....

Two stories from me on this. I agree with the other about cleaning up and putting back together.


Story 1
We were at the river for a 4 day weekend water skiing. My friends boat motor lets loose (460 ford jet boat). We go to a junk yard and work all night. We had to replace 1 bad piston. We got a used piston from a junk yard. Bolted it in and the engine has run for 14 years. It is still running. He runs the piss out of it too.

Story 2
My other friend puts a blower on his Z06. The engine doesnt last long. He gets it all rebuilt correctly with new factory parts for $$$ and its broken again. He never did put the blower back on it. So all that work might not make it right.

Just smooth everything out and put her back together.
Good luck...
Bummer about the damage.

Long ago, in a country far, far away, someone I know (couldn't have been me) unknowingly dropped a 1/4" ball bearing down the carb of his Dodge 2.2L gas motor. Many, many months and miles later, I, er he, pulled the head for a gasket leak (not related to the bearing). He found the aluminum head and piston each had been beaten pretty badly. Being a poor GI at the far end of the supply chain at the time, he did what he could to clean it up (broke burrs off, filed a little) and called it good. I, er he drove that car for many more months before selling it (cheap!) to get a new '88 Mustang GT. The new owner drove the crap out of it and totaled it, but that motor was still running strong until the end.


The moral of the story is you can fix it cheap or you can fix it right, but either way it will probably run for a long, long time. The choice is yours.

CntrlCalDmax,


I found a long block on ebay for $6000.00


"2001 Duramax diesel engine long block remanufactured to factory specs. Engine comes with a 2/24,000 warranty "


ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=33615&amp;item=2458108 122)





Thanks tor the tip D5. I called them. They don't have one built up but can build in a few days. There would probably be a partial core charge back according to them. Exchange head is $400 plus $3-500 core after they look at it.


As for running it as is, I don't think the pictures tell the whole story. The worst divot in the heat is at least 3/16" deep. I appreciate everyone suggesting I save $$, but this time I think I have to pay, whether I keep it or not.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/D7B_head.jpg





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A6E_piston.jpg[/QUOTE]

If I had to pay the freight, I would clean it up and smooth out the rough edges. Make sure the valve isn't bent and put it back together. Will run forever.

CntrlCalDmax said
As for running it as is, I don't think the pictures tell the whole story. The worst divot in the heat is at least 3/16" deep. I appreciate everyone suggesting I save $$, but this time I think I have to pay, whether I keep it or not.


3/16 is nothing (.1875). As long as there is nothing that will create an interfereance, you are fine. Smooth it out, and put it back together.


Bill

how much would it cost to tow it to Michigan?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

It sounds like you just want to pay your dues and get your truck back. I respect that. In my personall opinion you could repair your parts and have a long lasting good runnin engine. I would measure how far each piston comes up in the clyinder in an attempt to verify nothing was bent. As far as the head is concerned all holes/divots can be filled with weld or just smoothed down. The only thing I cannot tell is if there is any valve seat damge? If the tap was caught between the seat and valve I am sure you need a valve job? Good luck. Do you have an address? I will send you a dollar! Edited by: Bronco

how much would it cost to tow it to Michigan?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


I would tow it to Eric or pay his airline ticket, hotel, beer etc...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif

CntrlCalDmax, I've read through this whole thread so far, and I'm feeling for you dude. Same with the guy who had problems with his wife's Tahoe while working on the brakes. I hate taking stuff in to the dealer (or other service facility) but I just don't have all the tools and skills to do the work. I've had many a minor job over the years that I attempted only to break something or not be able to get something apart or having it take 10 times longer to do the job than it should. I regularly change my own oil, filters and do tire rotations. Other than that, it goes down to my local Chevy garage and Mr. Goodwrench can get his hands dirty doing the job. It's great those of you who have the skills and tools to do the job, cause surely you save yourselves some bucks in the long run. Even though I've got a good tool chest in the barn, I lack speciality tools and patience most of all. CntrlCalDmax, hang in there, and hopefully everything will work out.

You might want to look on http://www.car-part.com There is a long block with 40k listed there for $2500.


There are also a bunch of them complete for about $3800 and up.

You might want to look on http://www.car-part.com There is a long block with 40k listed there for $2500.


There are also a bunch of them complete for about $3800 and up.


That's a great site and I have bookmarked it for future use.


I really do appreciate all the advise and those of you who tried to help me with decisions, .....But,....... have 1 used head and 1 used piston for salehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif. Will be pulling off all the added goodies and returning it to pure stock. This way I can sell it to anyone with a clear conscience. This is just the way I do things. No regrets down the road.

Seeing as how you seem to be maintaining a good humor with this...


Why not add High Pressure Tap Injection to your sig? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif


Ty

Seeing as how you seem to be maintaining a good humor with this...


Why not add High Pressure Tap Injection to your sig? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif


Ty


Done

I CAN GET YOU A COMPLETE DMAX ENGINE WITH ALT,AC,ECM,WIRING HARNESS, WHEN I SAY COMPLETE I MEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!! FOR AROUND $5500 IT WILL HAVE AROUND 2000 MILES ON IT

Who's the poor guy that won't be able to start his truck in the morning?

I CAN GET YOU A COMPLETE DMAX ENGINE WITH ALT,AC,ECM,WIRING HARNESS, WHEN I SAY COMPLETE I MEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!! FOR AROUND $5500 IT WILL HAVE AROUND 2000 MILES ON IT


You getting even with someone? Or do you own a salvage yard?

I RUBUILD WRECKS AND HAVE A LEGAL SOURCE OF RESONABLY PRICED PARTShttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Who's the poor guy that won't be able to start his truck in the morning?


WATCH!!!!!! HOOT WILL BE POSTING SOON THAT HIS ENGINE IS GONEhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Midnut Auto

Well, is it fixed and running yet?


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Well, is it fixed and running yet?


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Not yet. Waiting for parts.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

A fellow on another forum has this in his sig line:


Good judgement is a product of experience. Experience is a product od bad judgement.


We all go through it. It's how we come out the other side that counts. CrtnlCal is doin' GREAT!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

BTT

What is the ETA on parts?

TODAY!!!!!

Glad to hear it. You still going to sell it? What did you decide on the piston? Grind it down or replace it?

Glad to hear it. You still going to sell it? What did you decide on the piston? Grind it down or replace it?


It's sold to my neighbor as soon as I can get it out of the shop. New head and piston. Requires pulling engine as the pan will not come off unless you pull the front diff and transmission or pull the engine.

Glad to hear it. You still going to sell it? What did you decide on the piston? Grind it down or replace it?


It's sold to my neighbor as soon as I can get it out of the shop. New head and piston. Requires pulling engine as the pan will not come off unless you pull the front diff and transmission or pull the engine.

Doesn't make a lot of sense.

To pull the engine you have to disconnect the tranny anyway.

Dropping the front dif takes like 10 minutes.

Sounds like quite an undertaking...


If you dont mind my asking, what is/was the total price tag?

[QUOTE=mannytranny]


Sounds like quite an undertaking...


If you dont mind my asking, what is/was the total price tag? /QUOTE]


I don't have the bill yet but the quote is right at $5K.

Still waiting on parts! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif The shop tells me they have head bolts on critical order with a large Chevrolet dealer here in Fresno. They, the dealer, has to order them from Isusu and they can't get Isusu to ship. I have the name and number of the parts manager at the dealership but he is out to lunch.


Patrick, Eric or anyone else connected with a dealer, does this sound legit? It's been in the shop since Jan 26!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif I am patient but this taxing my ability to stay calm.


On edit: The bolts are on back order from Isusu to GM. When I asked if they checked all the other dealers in the U.S. he said "Well I guess I can do that."http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif He found them at three dealers in California all within 1 day UPS ground. Hopefully tomorrow I can pick up head bolts and get this thing done and back on the road!Edited by: CntrlCalDmax

Oh, I see you got an LLY. I bet it sure takes some of the sting away from what happened...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


And did you preserve the warranty on it?

Oh, I see you got an LLY. I bet it sure takes some of the sting away from what happened...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


And did you preserve the warranty on it?





I love the LLY and yes it helps me be patient for the '01. Warranty? Probably won't know until it needs to go back to the dealer.

CntrlCalDmax


I'd like to know what kind of job you have? to afford a new 04' and this repair job

CntrlCalDmax


I'd like to know what kind of job you have? to afford a new 04' and this repair job





The '04 was purchased on a signature. 0 down 0%. I still have 5 days to figure out how to pay for it.

LOOKS LIKE HE WONT BE NEEDING ANY HELP WITH THE REPAIR BILL http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

Good call, good luck with the new one, I hope you like it!!!

I think he said he didnt want help paying for it. I think people need to mind their own business sometimes.

Pnut,


This isn't the War Room and he declined all offers of help paying for this error in judgement. He simply asked that all offers of help be given to charity.....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4904&amp;KW=CntrlCalDmax


Maybe his story will save someone else from a similar mistake.

HMMMMMMMM IF THATS THE CASE THEN ILL APOLOGIZEhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif. I WAS UNDER THE IMPRESSION THAT HE HAD TAKEN DONATIONS TO FIX HIS TRUCK. BUT I SEE HIS POST THAT HE WILL BE DONATING IT TO CHARITY. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif NOT MANY POEPLE ON THIS SITE WILL ADMIT WHEN THEY ARE WRONGhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Thanks bartman and zeeb.


To set the record stright I never asked for any assistance and frankly was embarrassed when it was offered. I have not received any money or other items of help that were offered. I can stand on my own. If I can't afford to play any longer I will sell before I will ask for welfare.


Leo

what parts are you waiting for? Might be able to help

what parts are you waiting for? Might be able to help


Thanks Eric,


The head bolts are on back order from Isusu to GM. When I asked if they checked all the other dealers in the U.S. he said "Well I guess I can do that."http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif He found them at three dealers in California all within 1 day UPS ground. Hopefully they will be here today.

Hello CentralCaldmax,


Sorry to see you are still having this ordeal. I bet you feel like a 20 pound brick is lifted off of your shoulders when this is all over. Hey as far as charity goes, I was following your plight closely, that's when I said I would send you a dollar if you gave me your adress, within hours PC started the donation thread. I do not believe anyone ever intended to embarass you. Sorry.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif I only hope if I have a problem, the PLACE would even pitch in half as much as they did for you. I would take the money in a second. If I had any left over I would buy some goodies so I could run with the bid dogs. ROOOF ROOOF . I beleive everyone here knew you refused the money several times. ( EXCEPT NUT). I already new the outcome while reading his post. Since I new the misunderstanding prior to resolution I was laughing my arce off. Priceless! Any whoo, Nut handled it like a man. Central, hope you get your ride runnin soon!Edited by: Bronco

Peanut

Over the years I have learned it takes a (fill in the blank) person to be able to reach out and help another person. Whats up with the negative output towards cntrl?

IVE ALREADY TAKEN CARE OF THE ASS I MADE. WHY DONT YOU START ANOTHER FILTER THREADhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

CntrlCalDmax-


I'm another who's wanted to throw up reading about the plight you've been in the past month.


Stick with it, friend. This too shall pass.

I have to tell you CntrlCalDmax, when I was drilling and taping my buddies 6.0 PSD manifold last weekend, I had thoughts of your situation running through my mind. Thankfully my trusty tap did not break and all went well...still a bummer this happened to you though...


Bob

This is why I didn't put a pyro on my truck. I have alot of experince towing with chipped trucks and have a good idea of whats going on with the temps when hauling. Hang in there, it's only money!!

Well?

Maybe Monday.

Maybe this NEXT Monday

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifFINALLY!!!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Two months and $5500 later I have my truck back. New head, piston, rings and rod. Picked it up at the shop about 2:30, drove it home 25 miles. Hot attitude was great! Love the incab adjustability. Cleaned up a few things left over from the almost complete Hot Attitude install and turned it over to the new owner.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif He is my neighbor, co-worker and a friend and is getting a great truck.


Turned out the Dmax tech's wife was pregnant and had some serious problems. He had to take a lot of time off to help her with RX visits. Kinda tough to get too pissed off with that excuse except I wish the owner would have been up front with me earlier.


I will now let this thread die a peaceful death.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif About time!

Now invite your neighbor to the site so we can find out how that exspensive EGT gauge is working out .... If he decides to change the probe he may want a little assistance....





Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif