Well it’s been three years since I started this program, and it’s rapidly coming to collimation. I moved my motor program and drive train over to my new chassis which is 250 lbs. lighter, and 30 inches shorter. I ordered this chassis over a year ago. The new Chassis is a Charlie Stewart race cars piece that was designed for the Dmax engine. With that said, I will show some of the pictures of the new car.

the ZZ custom fab intake, with the American made stainless solinoids
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/newmanifold-2.jpg

my dry sump oil pan

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0150-1.jpg

working on the air intake and scoop

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/281997_1901672017343_1107968363_31703342_4237615_n .jpg

my JE forges pistons

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/CIMG0011-1.jpg

the car looking over the trailblazer F/D comp car

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/282142_1903773749885_1107968363_31704869_7507239_n .jpg

and the car

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/282687_1902135628933_1107968363_31703906_2380819_n .jpg

i'm not really sure why there aren't any other posts yet, but maybe it's because they're speechless or jerkin the gerkin over the pics and details... i'm definitely drooling...

Reactor aluminum flywheel

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/268724_217381888298350_212116095491596_570325_5052 630_n.jpg

start with a pizza box, and this is what you get .

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0245.jpg

aluminum Fluidamper

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0246.jpg

Guys, I've tidied this thread up a little - please leave the bad blood from other forums (or wherever it's coming from) there and treat this thread with some respect - it's interesting stuff and exactly what we'd like to see more of here at DP.

Thanks.

Guys, I've tidied this thread up a little - please leave the bad blood from other forums (or wherever it's coming from) there and treat this thread with some respect - it's interesting stuff and exactly what we'd like to see more of here at DP.

Thanks.

oh the kids and Want A Bee's ,

here are the pistons with the aluminum rod's


http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/CIMG0007-1.jpg

the dry sump plumbing

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0303.jpg

I am running a PowerGlide / Gearvendor , but a clutch is cool at well

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0103.jpg



I am using a dry sump, so the oil feed hole is blocked , but for anyone that wants to get rid of their oil cooler in a drag set up , here is a cool part , I have a few extra plates if anyone needs one

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040911.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040859.jpg


here is the crank, I destroked it , and had it gas nitrated

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/100_0213.jpg


http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/100_0210.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/eastwestclutch.jpg

a few different views of a manifold for the Dmax that Greg at ZZ builds

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040919.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040942.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040947.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040918.jpg

1.156 .300 wall wrist pins. Smaller pins make the piston stronger


http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040863.jpg


a must when you bore a Dmax Block is deck plates . my bore is 4.125

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040746.jpg

the heads

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1030874.jpg


http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040006-1.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1030986.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040007.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040770copy.jpg


I use a 10 mm stud to fix breaking the rockers JohnBoy ask me to do them, and they work


http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/P1040788.jpg

Guys, I've tidied this thread up a little - please leave the bad blood from other forums (or wherever it's coming from) there and treat this thread with some respect - it's interesting stuff and exactly what we'd like to see more of here at DP.

Thanks.


Are you talking about my post or did someone post after me????

Did you hard block it?

Why the reason for the de-stroke? How many RPM's are you planning for?

What, if any, is the weight savings on the alum rods? They seem like more of a burden than a help considering the replacement intervals.

I think I would have used female bungs in that dry sump plate that bolts to the block. Only takes one accidental ding without a fitting on there and that plate is junk. Female threads let you screw in male to male adapters and make the plate pretty much indestructible.

The plates are available in any material, thickness as are the other surfaces on the Duramax. Like pan rails front covers, valve covers, header plates, and intake flanges. That’s the cool part about having a friend with a water jet machine.
I use aluminum rod for two reasons, this is a drag motor, it will be towed to the line, and clicked in to neutral after the traps. That said, Aluminum rods are not as fragile as one might think. Aluminum absorbs shock its. The makers of the rods, who also build top fuel rods as well, feel that the compression stroke is not where the rod is fatigued, but on the exhaust stroke in NA engines where the load in in the extension as the piston . This is negated to a point in a turbocharged engine.
The rods are cheap, and can be made in a week, in any length, I used aluminum to go for a true internal balance , and because I wanted a custom rod length. The reduced stroke is due to the belief, that if you need to make power up high, and you can’t feed the engine, then why make it bigger. With the new heads and cam programs, I would consider making it longer in other applications, the 4.125 bore and a 4.0 stroke makes a 7 liter.
As to the bore , the block is ok at that bore , we have extensive experience at this bore on both street and race engines ,and they leak really good even after a significant amount of miles

I'm totally familiar with aluminum rods. I have a set of MGP fuel rods in my blown alky BBC with Hemi pins.

But, here's my point. The whole reason to running aluminum rods in a forced induction motor is to reduce the chance of cracking or breaking the crank if the tune-up is missed with gas/alky/nitro. If detonation sets in with any of the mentioned fuels, the stresses get transmitted through a steel rod right into the crank.

Many, if not most, of the current heads up 10.5w turbo cars have gone back to running steel rods for longevity, and those are 6.7" length or longer rods in 632+ motors being spun up to 8k+ RPM.

I was curious as to why you chose, in a diesel application, where RPM's probably won't exceed 5k, an aluminum rod that requires close checking and maintenance to make sure it stays in one piece, or doesn't stretch thus closing up the valve to piston clearance.

As for the reduction in CID via de-stroking... Well, I'm not sure I agree with you. With the lack of CID, more boost will most likely be run, and in the end, fuel consumption is the same. From experience in blown alky, the only reason we change stroke out is to control hit off the line. More stroke makes it harder to make traction at the hit without pulling a lot of timing and adding a ton of fuel. In the case of the diesel, it would seem like more stroke would be better, and just pulling a bit of fuel out would make it easier to tune.

Then again, you may be doing this for an index class, at which point making excess HP is irrelevant.

Not going to run a index class, it’s all out and heads up, I expect 1400+ hp. The aluminum will make at least 100 to 200 laps, and maybe even more with the lower RPM. My convertor stalls around 4500 to 4700 at these power levels, and shifts will be around 5500, with 6000 thru the traps grinding metal.



Aluminum rods are great in the right applications; I use to get 60 to 70 laps on my competition eliminator motors, and those were 10,500 rpm motors and ultra-light rods. These rods are GRP and extremely beefy. I have lots of experience in fuel application, and the manufactory feels we are on the far side of over kill in bulk. The rods are inexpensive as in about $1000 retail and you get then custom in a week.
The pistons for these light rods are about the same $1000 and the cranks are less than a $1000 with heat treat, so for about 3 grand you get a rotating assembly in either a big bore, short stroke 400 cid , or a 427 with the longer stroke


I use a 1.156 .300 wall tool steel pin with the JE pistons and combined with the rod, and the reduction in rod throw on the crank, the bob is close to 1000 grams lighter.
What I’m looking for here is Acceleration , “ REVGAIN” the car is light and the motor must gain rpms at the rate of 600 to 900 rpms per second, this kills power , much like the old saying ,” the dyno would not load my truck , so I didn’t make big power”.
I come from a Competition Eliminator / Pro Stock back ground, we think outside the box, and go down many paths. What we try may or may not work, but how do you know what will or will not work if you don’t go down that part


The big inch ADRL extreme pro stock engines are huge well over 800 CID, and they are turning well over 9000 rpms . I know of one turbo motor that is a 5.3 bore spacing ultra-short stroke engine, as in right at 500 inches, that makes about 4500 hp and turns 10,500 rpms . The reason for this wild combination is that high rpms gets away from unmanageable and unusable torque

This set up is just freakin cool! One question though. Will the rods work with stock bore pistons to? Your build looks awsome by the way!

If you’re going to go with these rods to get the weight off, you’re going to need pistons as well,, and the pistons are available in any bore size. We have done a complete work up on the blocks, and a 4.125 bore is the best deal. It also allows a bigger intake valve,
The rotation assembly is priced very competitive to what others are doing , and is available in either 400cid or 427 cid. I feel that even with the best heads out there the 7 liter deal is nothing but bragging right, in that if you can’t feed the engine air, making it bigger only makes more peak cylinder pressure down low where you don’t need or want it.
you can call Dave at 940 766 1357 , he is doing quite a lot of Dmax engines now , from street rods to my dragster. He was one of the guys that built comp motors when I was racing comp

Can't wait to see this thing run! Keep up the great work and pushing the envelope.

Very neat Comp461, be interesting to see how it runs. At the burnrate of diesel do you think you will have a problem keeping the pipes from burning at 6000 rpm?

Not at all, Greg at ZZ custom Fabrication built the headers; they are designed to handle the heat. The headers will only see power for less the 7 seconds. At less than 1700 lbs. and 1400 hp , you can do the math .

I'm totally familiar with aluminum rods. I have a set of MGP fuel rods in my blown alky BBC with Hemi pins.

But, here's my point. The whole reason to running aluminum rods in a forced induction motor is to reduce the chance of cracking or breaking the crank if the tune-up is missed with gas/alky/nitro. If detonation sets in with any of the mentioned fuels, the stresses get transmitted through a steel rod right into the crank.

Many, if not most, of the current heads up 10.5w turbo cars have gone back to running steel rods for longevity, and those are 6.7" length or longer rods in 632+ motors being spun up to 8k+ RPM.

I was curious as to why you chose, in a diesel application, where RPM's probably won't exceed 5k, an aluminum rod that requires close checking and maintenance to make sure it stays in one piece, or doesn't stretch thus closing up the valve to piston clearance.

As for the reduction in CID via de-stroking... Well, I'm not sure I agree with you. With the lack of CID, more boost will most likely be run, and in the end, fuel consumption is the same. From experience in blown alky, the only reason we change stroke out is to control hit off the line. More stroke makes it harder to make traction at the hit without pulling a lot of timing and adding a ton of fuel. In the case of the diesel, it would seem like more stroke would be better, and just pulling a bit of fuel out would make it easier to tune.

Then again, you may be doing this for an index class, at which point making excess HP is irrelevant.

Don't bother arguing with him. That is all

That thing is badass. Did Chris do these heads like on your cummins motors?

Yes he did

Nice, what did they flow?

Nice, what did they flow?


More than any Dmax head on earth. Chris will be selling them to a select group. , there is a lot of DRCE Pro Stock and NASCAR heads in the shop , so cameras are forbidden. But Chris did let me take a select few. None of the Dmax heads

http://www.frankensteinracingheads.com/development.htm


http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0391.jpg


http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0393.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/GREG560/IMAG0394.jpg

Who do you use to do the machine work on your block and key the crank?

Dave Moser at D&L performance 940 766 1357 he's in Wichita Falls Texas.
He' does great work, and is assembling my new engine program, along with several other diesel programs including some advanced 2.6 engines for pullers

What are you using for headgaskets?

cometic 4.125 bore

Yeah Chris definitely knows his stuff, everytime I talk to him I am amazed at the power he is making. I miss that big guy, he's a good friend of mine. Good to see his name in the Duramax world.