Seems our N2O knowledge is scattered all over the place. Lotsa small things people have learned that sometimes a noobie dosnt even think to ask either. Figure a noobie guide to N2O may be helpfull. This isnt really a guide per se or ment to be comprehensive but more some helpfull things that we have learned doing it that a beginer may not know. Maybe we can expand into other areas of drugs too? Feel free to add and also feel free to come up with any list for other drugs ;) Some of these are more guide lines and you can tweak and alter but for the most part dont start experimenting till you know what your doing;)

1. And this is rule #1. Its not called NOS or NAAAAAAWS!!!! Its dyno proven that your motor will produce less power! Sometimes I have accidentaly said NOS or NAAAWS at the track(some of the guys I hang with watch the fast and the furious too many times and it slips out :o: ) and I lost ET! No BS. ;) N2O, nitrous, nitrous oxide, spray, squeeze, juice, on the bottle, bottle fed, the ****, turbo in a bottle, laughing gas giggle gas funny fumes are all aceptable. I may have missed a few but you get the jist

What is N2O? It is an oxidizer. Its like adding more air. Thats it in a nutshell in simple terms.

Only spray at WOT. Also its a good idea to wait till you are furthur up in the RPMs before you spray a big shot ie dont wire a huge shot on a WTO switch and tromp it from a dead idle. Wiring your set up to utilize a WOT switch is a good idea IMO and it adds safety and keeps some other problems from happening.

Start small. Dont listen to what people are using as absolute gospel. If racer X says he uses a X orfice size dont imediatly stuff that in there. Lotsa different factors go into being able to run X size.

2 .05 orfices(or jets, pills ect) dont flow the same as 1 .1 orfices(or jet or pill ect). .05+.05 does not=.1 Trust me the math will get explained latter;)

Your Orfice size (pill or jet size) may not be the restriction on your system. Do your home work, check what every peice of your system will flow. When in doubt call NOS(NOS the company!!! See the proper way to use NOS in a sentence?) or who ever makes the stuff your using, they can tell you all kinds of information on what things flow ect.

Run a consistent bottle pressure! More than likely your going to need a bottle heater but dont be afraid to put a cold rag ect to cool it down and bring the pressure down. Alternate ways to bring your pressure up is sticking it in the truck with the heater blasting(been there) or sticking it in the sun. Better have a gauge too.

Dont try to get the last drop outa your bottle. There will be a few pounds that are not really useable or usable at a deccent pressure.

N2O comes out at -127 or some such number like that. I cant remember the number exactly but its freaking cold, watch your fingers ect when taking stuff apart;)

Use a correct mount for your bottle. Those brackets may seem like a rip off but you really need to have the bottle tiped in the right direction to get the siphon tube in the right place so your drawing liquid. Put your bottle in the right position!

Purge your system! Before you make a run(every time!) and also before you undo the lines to change a bottle. Remember N2O being negative some freaking number? I've seen people get burnt by it at the track and decided it looked like no fun;) Purge right before you make your pass. Either get a comercialy available purge, wire up a regular noid and make your own purge "kit" or purge through the motor. Big n2o noids and jets will dump alot of spray quickly. A actual purge is a good idea IMO.

How to purge through the motor.....Bring your motors RPM up to 2500 or so and hold it there. Bump your N2O noids for maybe a second or so, do this a few times. Dont just hold down the noid, bump it a few times. The motor will kinda bog and white smoke will come out the tail, this is normal. Blkow a few white puffs out the tail pipe. A good time to do this is when the other guy is in the burn out box.

A dry shot of nitrous after the turbo is pretty much the norm in the diesel croud.

You can never buy too big of N2O noids or lines ect......

Dont "dry fire" noids

Pressure check your whole system. You dont want leaks (duh)

Noids draw a ton of juice. Wire em with relays, dont just go through a switch. When in doubt about how much juice one is drawing? Call the manufacturer and ask em.

When in doubt call the manufacturer! You wouldnt believe it but most of the tech guys actually know stuff and you can get all kindsa cool info outa em!

Run a blow down tube if its mounted in your cab!

Dont spray unless your truck is running;) Trust me, I've acidently set of my noids with the truck off. Sounded kinda scarry the next morning(I waited) when I started it up.

Purge your system when your done at he track ect.

Spraying on the street in 2wd dosnt work even from a roll;)

Trying to think of some more......

Oh.....and this is rule #2 No N2O wont work with a stock trans and no it wont work unless your running BIG programing

The only place you can tune N2O is at the track. I wouldnt even final tune it on the dyno. Get it 1/2 tweaked maybe but mess with pill sizes at the track. Dyno tune it for HP or close to it and then head to the track. Or Play on the street and see were you are barely smoking, then go to the track and start upping the pills.

And try not to buy it at the track, big $$$$

And dont be prepared for some big hit thats going to throw you back in the seat and make your vision blur and flames come out your tail.

Please feel free to add to this. Alot of these things I have learned from other guys that are alot more knowledgable than me. These arnt my ideas just things I have gathered ;)

I think a nitrous FAQ/sticky is a great idea :) Thanks. For newbies to nitrous like myself this type of information is invaluable. I did go off on my own and dug up some other nitrous faqs on the net and learned a lot just reading those. Here are a few links that has some info you could copy/paste or just use the links themselves. I want to learn more about installing a purge setup and perhaps a WOT switch vice using a hobbs.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/faq.htm

http://www.nitrousdirect.com/nitrous.html

http://members.aol.com/agspeed/nos.htm#7

http://www.speedworx.com/cgi-local/shop.pl/page=nosfaq.htm

Is there any true and tested way to see how much is left in the bottle when running a heater (pressure stays about the same til your flat done)? 10lb. .32/.47 dual right now @ 8/ 9 seconds per. Thanks guys...T

Weigh it. After you make a few passes you will get to know howm many clean passes you can get outa a bottle before it starts dropping off.

Having your N2O come in of boost is pretty controlable and consistent. Much more so than pushing a button(although I would prefer the control factor of a button if I were pulling) Some people have thier spray come on at WOT, some just use it as an added safety feature, some hook up multipul stages and hit the first one off WOT ect. Another side benifit of N2O not coming on unless yourt at WOT is some people set thier N2O to come on close to the boost they leave the line at. They bring it up on boost and it rises just a tad to quick, n2o kicks on and through the lights they go.

Every N2O set up should have a master arm switch. JMO here. I got one of those snap cover switches. You can find em in your local ricer section. Only problem is finding a cover that isnt gold or hot pink or some other gaudy color. Your master on should kill power to EVERYTHING. You shouldnt be able to purge or anything if its not on.

I doubt I will be building 18+ lbs of boost at the line which is what SD's kit activates at. Via SD's arming swtich and boost you could have manual control of when nitrious is activated as long as boost is above 18 lbs. If boost is above 18 lbs you could using the arming switch to turn on the nitrous because the hobbs switch is already activated by the boost. This is how I was planning to kill the nitrous manually when pulling ...but I also need to take truck out of tow/haul mode at the same time ...ends up being too many things to control at one time without killing the motor or making a big BOOM sound :)

You can dial your spray to come on what ever psi you want;) I have mine coming in a bit earlier than that. Dialing in a hobbs can be a bit tricky if you dont have an air source that you can easily turn up and down. At the track things can get interesting. Hood open, 4x4 on boost while your pal tweaks with it and a test light or a multi meter to get it set.....probably not the safest method ;)

If a pressure gauge isn't for telling how much is left, what is it for? consistensy?

Basicly yes. Too low and you get a crappy spray, too high and all kindsa bad stuff can happen. And its impossible to tune if your bouning pressures all over the place. 1000 is kinda the majic number. I've done more or less or will sometimes move it around but 1000 is the magic# and you should try to hang around there

You can dial your spray to come on what ever psi you want;) I have mine coming in a bit earlier than that. Dialing in a hobbs can be a bit tricky if you dont have an air source that you can easily turn up and down. At the track things can get interesting. Hood open, 4x4 on boost while your pal tweaks with it and a test light or a multi meter to get it set.....probably not the safest method ;)i seen this red neck at du rase track dat used a red xmas light with 2 leads on it.he would clip that lit to each side of the hobbs ,pop the cap off, spool turbo to whatever psi he needed and then twist the hobbs screw til the light came on.dumbest thing i ever seen.i reckon folks wihout formal learning come up with some dumba?? ideas ay.another them hicks from norf cackalaki call that stuff naws,maybe they can pick up a bit of speed by callun it nitorous oxyide...:cool2:

):h Actually when I said test light I should have said what I used was a peice of scrap wire jumpered from the battery and a trailer clearance light on the other side of the hobs switch....but I didnt wana sound like a corn fed hick from IL so I substituted using a multimeter and watching for it to open by looking at the Ohms or one of dem store bought light deals ;)

Make sure you have strong brakes and you are the one building boost. I dont trust my friends enough to not do a 4x4 hole shot with me under the hood :eek:

Okay.. Hopefully this is not a dumb question but here goes: What is the difference in track times/ performance when using Nitrous vs Propane? For example: 100hp of No2 Vs 100hp of LP? I am sure many variables play into this but was wondering this for quite some time.

Other question: I have no plans on purchasing nitrous after I get a propane setup, oh my bad NAAAAAAAAWS! But what happens when you mix the two? I hear from some sources that say it's good, and some say it's not. What is the "real deal" here?

Sorry for whoring all the questions out there I have less than a month left of Iraq and coming to this site is far more interesting than playing video games.

Nitrous is a an oxidizer. Meaning its adding air(not actual air but for ease of explaining) Think of it as adding a bigger turbo(in simplistic terms)

Propane is a fuel.

The 2 work really well together but they act COMPLETELY different in a motor. If your overfuled and you ad spray you will go faster. If you are overfuled and you add propane(fuel) you will go slower, if you are underfuled and add N2O you will go slower.

Remember the only dumb question is the one that Scott(partsguy) asks :D

I understand that much. Lets use this as an example: TTS Extreme on high, dual lift pumps, 4"exhaust. Same stuff, two trucks. Guy A goes w/ a msd or powershot propane system, Guy B goes w/ a 90-100hp Nitrous setup; Nothing fancy, just the basic affordable setup.
what would be the differences in the way the trucks perform on the street or track?

I would say the one with N2O would walk all over the one with propane. The TTS Xtreme is way heavy on the fule and adding more would likely slow it down or you may be able to get a slight reduction in ET. With the right N2O set up you can figure on dropping around a second or so off your 1/4 time IMO

Edit: if you wana see whats possible on just an Xtreme and N2O take a look here. She also aint done yet ;) http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42594

And dont be prepared for some big hit thats going to throw you back in the seat and make your vision blur and flames come out your tail.

First time I sprayed, I was waiting for this effect.:rolleyes: :) Let's just say I was disappointed.:D

I'll take your advice of not spraying on the street in 2WD, even from a roll.:exactly:

That's what I figured. I had a discussion on this when I called my father the other day. He wanted to tell me that it would be nearly the same. I would like to thank you for all your posts and points to people like me that are new to the diesel world.
Now for more questions: If the extreme is on low the lp is still good for economy right? And is it okay to mix N2o and LP?

Remember the only dumb question is the one that Scott(partsguy) asks :D


Uh huh...allright...time to summon my friends in low places yet again... ;)

The good old "you should be using propane, it works just like N2O in a diesel" Yeah, I get that alot :rolleyes:

I think the propane may be a false economy. You still gota fill the propane, and the cost of the kit ect. It may take quite a few miles to get it to come out as cost effective. I duno much about propane.

If it were for a purely performance aspect I would start with just N2O. That should get you into the high 11's if done right. If you want more than that then you can add propane latter. JMO

Dont skimp on the N2O set up. Set up a system that you can expand down the road. This means BIG noids and BIG line feeding the noids. You can alwasy add a second stage latter ect. Its better to pay a few $$$ up front than need to redo stuff. JMO

I was not considering using N2o for a long time. I just like to learn more about these trucks and setups. W/ a 6" lift and 35" tires I think I would blow my engine before reaching 11's. However, I do plan on taking it to the track from time to time. It is the only justification I have for selling my 68' camaro (at least it's still in the family).
So does anyone know the facts of mixing LP & No2?

i have done a bit here and there ,exactly what do you need/want to know...

i have done a bit here and there

:funnypost :rotflmao: just a wee bit huh ;) ):h

You can dial your spray to come on what ever psi you want;) I have mine coming in a bit earlier than that. Dialing in a hobbs can be a bit tricky if you dont have an air source that you can easily turn up and down. At the track things can get interesting. Hood open, 4x4 on boost while your pal tweaks with it and a test light or a multi meter to get it set.....probably not the safest method ;)

Your friend has a pair!!:eek: :D Actually, I went a step further to test and tune the hobbs switches. I have 2 hobbs switches, one for lift pump and one for nitrous. I went to radio Shack, purchased 3 LED's (red, white and blue:) ) along with some resistors. I wired one LED up to lift pump (hobbs switch), one to the + side of the nitrous solenoid, and one to my bottle heater switch (so I dont forget to turn it off!!) This actually works good. I have the 3 LEDs mounted under the pocket in the dash (with 5mm LED mounts) The LED's act as an adjustment tool and diagnostic tool at the same time. I can easily watch the psi and LED come on, and adjust accordingly. This also lets me be sure the lift pump and solenoid are receiveng power. For example, the lift pump: the hobbs switch will start to open, causing the voltage to rise. The lift pump may just start to come on at 16psi, but may be fully operational @ 14V(est.) at 18psi. You can watch the intensity of the LED as the switch fully opens. I just find it an easy way to fine tune driving down the road and make sure the components are getting power.

Ditto, I use LED's for all my systems, even auxillery lighting. It comes in real handy on the pane and N20 also.

New random thoughts of the week.

Be carefull who's stuff you buy. zex and I think TNT use jets and such that are unique to them. Not saying thier stuff is bad or anything. Just that if you buy a zex kit and go to the track dont expect to barrow a jet from someone uness they are running zex stuff ect. This was something I was reminded of this weekend. NOS and edelbroch and coldfusion ect and just about every one elses pills ect interchange.

Also if you have multipul bottles make sure you either have bottle nuts on each bottle or a spare washer/gasket deal if you are swapping bottle nuts.

When you buy a bottle the first time make sure the vavlve is tight and the gauge ect is tight. When you get it filled it is not the time to realize that its not;)

Couple of helpful tips;

1). Check your system for restrictions other than the jet. Your jet may not be the smallest restriction in your system, therefore not allowing you to get the most out of your system as well as not giving you full tune ability of the system.

You should check your nitrous line sizes, mostly between the solenoid and the jet. If you are running a -3an hose, most likely the inner crimp will be .079, meaning anything larger than this in a jet will yield little to no change in flow or performance. Nitrous companies produce -4an hoses that have a -3an nut on one end. Since this uses a larger hose (-4), the inner sleeve on this -3an end will have a larger inner diameter (most are .144 to .154). This will ensure that the jet remains the smallest restriction and therefore the final tuning tool in the system. Also check the fittings and nozzle used and keep the solenoid orifice size in mind too. You can always run a larger solenoid or two solenoids/two nozzles to get more flow.

2) Also, as rat has already mentioned, if running more than one jet, don’t assume two .050 jets are the same as a single .100. Flow is basically based on pressure and cross sectional area of the jet. This is helpful is you are running two systems that get staged during the run or if you run two jets in different spots in the intake tract on the same stage (1 jet pre IC and and 1 jet post IC, etc.). Below are a couple of formulas you can use to go from multiple jets to a single jet;

From multiple jets to a single jet,

Dia. X Dia. X .7854 X N = total jet area
Where N is the number of jets and Dia. is the inside diameter of the jets

As an example we will compute two .050 jets.
.050 x .050 x .7854 x 2 = .003927 total area

Now that we have the total area we need to compute what single diameter jet the total area equals. And it goes like this;
AREA / .7854 X SqRt
.003927 / .7854= .005
.005 times square root (just hit the square root key) = .070710

Rounded off = .071 jet.
So two .050 jets when flowing at the same time are equivalent to a single .071 jet.

The next example is if the two jets used are different sizes (a .050 jet and a .085 jet);
.050 x .050 x .7854 x 1 = .0019635 (a single .050 jet area)
.085 x .085 x .7854 x 1 = .0056745 (a single .085 jet area)

Add these two areas together to get the total jet area

.0019635 + .0056745 = .007638 (total jet area)

Now that we have the total area we need to compute what single diameter jet the total area equals.

.007638 /.7854 = .00972498
.00972498 times square root (or just hit the square root key) = .0986153

Rounded off = .099 jet.
So a single .050 jet and a single .085 jet when flowing at the same time are equivalent to a single .099 jet.

Those equations are VERY helpfull, Thanks :)

I got bored and made a very simple excell spread sheet were you can pop in the numbers and get the equivilent orfice size. Anyone interested PM me.

I run a .125 single jet, does that mean I'm running a crap load of nitrous??? ):h ):h

I think that's just shy of a "crap load".....:D

I mean you state that you still run a jet, take it out and then that would be a "crap load" of nitrous.:ro)

.125 jet at 1000psi = approx. 1914.7 lbs/hr = 5.31 lbs/10 sec
.156 solenoind at 1000psi = approx. 3020.15 lbs/hr = 8.38 lbs/10 sec

3020.15-1914.7=1105.45lbs/hr is the difference between you and a crap load:D ):h ...

I assume you have a .156 orifice solenoid???

He and I are both using 1/4 in 1/8 out side discharge .125 or noids. At least im 99% sure thats what wade is running.

out of curiousity, how long can you run nitrous for in one stretch. for gassers I've heard the magic number of 10 seconds. Does this hold true for diesel?

Also I want to make sure I'm not overthinking this, but I plan to run a dual stage setup. So I'm going to need one solenoid for the first stage, and another solenoid for the second stage. I just want to make sure I set this up right.

I plan on activating the first off of a WOT swith, microswitch or something, and then a hobbs switch for for the 2nd stage. Does this sound ok, or is their an easier method?

Also how much is to much nitrous? Is there a proper technique for determining how big your jets should be?

Longest I ever ran spray was for around 12.6 seconds IIRC ):h

For a dual stage you can either run multipul noids yes or you can acomplish most of the same thing with a controler.

Too much? Well you know you have too much when you go slower or you vent your crank case to the atmosphere and try to send your manifold into orbit):h

Ok.....I though this was covered but I guess not.

How to figure out how much spray you can run......Gota be done at the track. First off. Second off lets go back to how a diesel works compared to a gasser. Basic terms. Gasser wants a specific fuel air ratio to make max power. So does a diesel. On a gasser you go too lean and bad stuff happens quickly, on a diesel it isnt quite as drastic, you get your FA ratio off and you just dont make optimum power. So....we dont have enough air and we dont make max power(this is why we are adding n2o in the first place) so we add a bit more N2O(or n2o in the first place) we have more air and we make more power! We keep adding air and keep making more power....there will come t be a point in time when we are no longer making more power becasue we are adding too much air......what happens now? We make less power and go slower. So what do we do if we want to find out how to make peak HP? Keep adding till it makes less(goes slower) Now......this dosnt take into account the motor/trans/you ect being able to hold the power so the comment about till you go slower or blow you **** up is kinda tounge in cheek. That said I ran a lot of N2O and didnt blow my stuff up and people have ran more power than me and not blown stuff up yet people have poped thier motor on a whole lot less power than me. So......you play you better be ready to pay. Use at your own risk. Now another thing I will say is remember the whole "your motor is an air pump :blahblah:" talk? well think about what uses more fuel at WOT.....a motor turning 2k or a motor turning 3k? DUH! you say.....but did you ever think about what its air requirements are? ;) You may have the right amount of N2O at 2500RPM but if you are sparying the same amount there that you are at say 1800 then think about whats happening;) You may spray too soon based on RPM;) Keep this in mind also;) So seeing anyother reason why a dual stage may make sense? All about the first 60' ;)

When I say trans ect I mean to say as a whole truck combo. Your programing may not like you spraying so much or the whole time ect ect, its all about making you truck go as fast as possible so keep tweaking for max speed!

I'd rather not do the 2nd. I like my manifold in tact. My question is how do i go about selecting nozzle sizes.

Do i throw in 2 .050" nozzles run a pass and just keep increasing until it slows down? That doesn't really sound safe. Eventually the truck will slow if there isn't a manifold left.

ok that I understood, which is why you were suggesting that tuning on a dyno is not the end of your tuning. Get it close then finish on the track. see even idiots like me can understand this stuff.

Rathuer not do the 2nd? Huh? :think: Buy the nossels that take a pill or jet. You dont want to keep changing the nossels. And some guys have been known to run a regular fogger nozzel like what you run in a wet set up. One stage in the N2O side and one stage of nitrous on the side labled fuel ;) One thing I will say is remember about what I said about calling the NOS guys or who evr you buy your stuff from.....they can tell you what a certian part will flow out right. No sense sticking a .09 pill in something that will only flow .06;)

Oh wait....you ment the 2nd like the second option of not blowing your stuff up.....I thought you ment you didnt want to drill more holes in your manifold as in second stage:lol: :o:

Well like I said.....some guys have blown thier stuff up on alot less than what other guys have ran sucessfully for a long time. So either keep adding spray till you slow down, you blow your **** up, or you run outa hair on your sack.

Just what I have found but my truck liked about a 40 jet at WOT right off the line, much over that and traction went down the tubes. Duno how your fueling comes on though. I also left on a lil boost too. Not as much as when I was making just a fuel pass though.

How I would tune my truck at the track would be wory about the first stage first. See what you can run and cut good 60's. Dont look at anything else. Then start playing with your second stage when you figure out how your truck likes to launch.

that is kinda what I was going to do. Get my 60' times in order then go for et.

I was planning on using a single fogger nozzle, but I will have to call and make sure it will fflow enough.

so you used an .040" jet for your first stage. what was your 2nd? I just wanted a general idea so I know what general area to play in when I order my nozzles.
Cold fusion sells them in 8 packs.

What is the difference between the flared and funnel style jets?

And here I had a lenghty reply that just got eaten:mad:

When talking about pill or jet sizes generaly either .08 or .085 or 80 or 85 is stamped on the jet(this is orfice size). Depends on manufacturer but .08 and 80 are the same thing and genreally people just say a 80 jet or and 85 jet not .08" or .085" Also some people will say 100 shot(or something like that) and be refering to the HP gain. a 75 HP shot is not the same as a .075(or 75) pill or jet. They put the orfice size on the pills not the HP shot. Make sure you are talking apples to apples. Most gasser guys like to talk HP shot added.

Ok......what jets to buy? There are so many co.s and each of them claim to be better and even many co.s have a few different lines that are supposedly better(and more expensicve) but they all interchange(aside from what I mentioned with TNT ect being an od ball). Now some I'm sure are more consistent ect and flow better :blahblah: You'll go nuts trying to figure out witch is witch. Its like the damn WAR song there is stood in front of every kinda jet, bronze ones, jewl cut ones, stainless ones, sorry, I'll stop now):h.....anyway......for our application IMO its not that critical. I would try to stick with one manufacturer if possible and one type of pill or jet just to try to be a bit more consistent.

Just keeping her open :)

You are getting the bug arent you.;)

I have been a drag racer since i was 8 so ive spent a lot of time at the strip and I seen lots of nitrous equiped vehicles. Many with lots of nitrous experiance and they arn't safe from problem more than anyone else. Point being ive witnessed a lot of severe engine damage from nitrous abuse! One of the big ones is the "lots of smoke from the exh. and then BOOM! So if at all possible some how keep an eye on the exhaust, if it starts to labor and smoke, for heven sakes Let OFF before it coughs aluminum! It's real commen on our spark ign. sibblings but us compression boys arn't safe either!!! Go small and work it up! Also make sure u have the proper equip and in good shape. A friend of ours "had" a beautiful 70 nova w/ big inch BBC and NX direct port, his first nitrous pass ever he decided to go for a 200hp shot. At 60' mark it backfired the carb apart, nitrous on, fuel on, ign. etc. The windshield melted into the car in seconds!!! Just some food for thought!:rockit:
Happy Sprayin!!!

Purging a nitrous system on a diesel is actually not as important as on a gasoline engine. I'll explain why I say this. Purging came from using nitrous on gasoline racing engines. These racers would use purge systems to ensure all air is purged from the nitrous line. The reason for this is these serious nitrous systems require serious amounts of fuel added. If the driver hits the button on such a system the proportional amounts of nitrous and fuel will flow and huge power is made. If large amounts of fuel flow from the fuel side, but only air from the nitrous side (trapped in the line) then there will be a bog and reduced ET (not good for winning races) due to an overly rich condition. On the other side of that scenario, if the fuel line has air in it, but the nitrous line is purged of air, then you will witness a huge back fire through the intake and carburator due to the resulting lean mixture. This usually happens because the racer made a jet change on the fuel side without purging any air from the line afterwards or the fuel solenoid fails to open. Neither of these scenarios can happen with a diesel. If air is trapped in the solenoid line, then there will only be alot of black smoke from the exhaust until the air purges. No harm done, just no nitrous power until the air purges from the line.
If your solenoid happens to hang open with the engine off, you can pull the ECM fuse and spin the engine over a few times to purge the nitrous out of the engine. Even if you don't, there should still be no problem because there is no ignition spark or fuel present in the intake or combustion chamber (as a gas engine would) to back fire the engine when you do try to start it. Remember, nitrous does not burn... it promotes the burning of fuel, so atomized fuel and an ignition source must be present.
If the injection timing is retarded sufficently to compensate for the amount of nitrous injected, then you can spray copious amounts of nitrous and you will make huge power without hurting any parts. Blown head gaskets, bent rods and busted pistons will result from too early timing while using large doses of nitrous because of the faster burn rate. I'll explain why. Injector timing is calculated by the burn rate of the fuel vs the RPM of the engine. Fuel is injected just before TDC to account for the burn rate of the fuel. This early timing should allow maximum burn and resulting cylinder pressure to occur at approx 12 degrees after TDC to drive the piston down the bore. When you add nitrous to the mix, that same fuel will burn much quicker, so we do not want the piston approaching TDC when the fuel/nitrous mix burns or it will try to push the pistons back down the bore before they reach TDC and the crankshaft has had time to rotate past TDC. That is when something must give such as head gasket, bent rods or busted pistons. Usually, the head gasket becomes the "fuse" which is good because it is easier and cheaper to change. Never-the-less, we want to retard the injection timing to account for the faster burn rate of the nitrous fuel mix to achieve maximum combustion and cylinder pressure at 12 degrees after TDC. Then the force drives the piston down the bore and passes the power through the crankshaft and the drive train. The more nitrous you use, the less timing you need to be safe.
When the programmer manufacturers begin making tuners that are nitrous friendly, then you will see a tremendous advancement in this available diesel power adder. All that is needed is a signal wire to the programmer from the nitrous solenoid so the programmer knows when the nitrous is on. Then fuel and timing can be applied in proportion to the jet size of the nitrous system. I find it hard to believe I have not already seen such a system on the market by now considering the market is wide open with power hungry diesel owning performance enthusiasts.

Download not yet avalible, but my bully dog PMT has perihery controls of such systems like nitrous of M/W inj. don't know if its just an interface or if it backs the timing down if u use it to run the nitrous?

Bully Dog does not mention anything about nitrous tuning using the PMT on their web site, though I am not doubting your word. I was simply hoping to find a programmer specifically for nitrous that would pull timing out when switched to the N20 setting. Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the faster Cummins engines the old mechanical injection type? If so I can see how they can better tune for nitrous since they can easily pull timing out with a simple adjustment to the pump. Perhaps EFI live is the way to go here?!?!?

I bet if you call dan at ppe he could make you a tune for nitrous or you could buy efilive and make your own nitrous tune. I know its not automatic but it is at least an option.

Bully Dog does not mention anything about nitrous tuning using the PMT on their web site, though I am not doubting your word. I was simply hoping to find a programmer specifically for nitrous that would pull timing out when switched to the N20 setting. Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the faster Cummins engines the old mechanical injection type? If so I can see how they can better tune for nitrous since they can easily pull timing out with a simple adjustment to the pump. Perhaps EFI live is the way to go here?!?!?

EFILive DSP2 would be a very useful tool in this situation. You can have your #2 only tune and your N20 tune set up identical with the exception of timing changes. Flip the switch and your timing is pulled for you, don't worry about trans relearn or anything. You can even wire your N20 solenoid relay to the DSP output and dial in your N20 engage parameters depending on track conditions. :driver:

~Nick

EFILive DSP2 would be a very useful tool in this situation. You can have your #2 only tune and your N20 tune set up identical with the exception of timing changes. Flip the switch and your timing is pulled for you, don't worry about trans relearn or anything. You can even wire your N20 solenoid relay to the DSP output and dial in your N20 engage parameters depending on track conditions. :driver:

~Nick

NOW we're talkin! Thanks for the info Nick. For some reason, I am not finding the DSP2 listed on the EFI live web site. Can you give me a link to the unit description and pricing? Is the DSP2 the only thing I need to buy from EFI live? Thanks in advance for your help.

Here's a link to the original announcement on the EFILive forums. DSP5 and DSP output are good reads

http://download2.efilive.com/Tutorials/PDF/DSP%20Upgrade%20Tutorial.pdf

http://forum.efilive.com/announcement.php?f=31 -> ignore the talk about beta testing and whatnot, very old post.

Email me or call if you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to answer them.
Nick