i ended up twisting my rear driveshaft yesterday. thing looks like a pretzel. is anyone producing a stronger replacement that I can just order? or am I gonna have to get one custom made? maybe one with 1480 u joints.

the good thing is I ended up winning the pull off. the shaft twisted as 302'.

are LMM shafts stronger? I know they have bigger u joints

No, LMM shafts are no better. ADM driveshafts are the way to go. They're lighter than stock, and much stronger. They look pretty darn good too ;)

can you get them with 1480 u joints?

Ive been looking at the billet yoke allseason sells for a while but it requires 1480 u joints.

No, LMM shafts are no better. ADM driveshafts are the way to go. They're lighter than stock, and much stronger. They look pretty darn good too ;)

IMHO they are WAY over priced and the theory that they dont twist off because they offer more deflection than a steel driveshaft is PURE UNADULTERED horse crap. IF that driveshaft springs back or forth that much its only a matter of time before it develops a week spot, and if its flexing that much ill pretty much guarrantee it deforms enough to disrupt the balance.

can you get them with 1480 u joints?

Ive been looking at the billet yoke allseason sells for a while but it requires 1480 u joints.

You dont need 1480 series joints, your 1410 series driveshaft with good joints will carry you a long long ways with a stock end yoke at your current power level and beyond. Im not snubbing the all season's billet yoke, BUT they state it fits LMMs which have an AAM1485 series driveline, not 1480 series. So which U-joint lock up spec does it fit 1480? or 1485?

1480 series joints are .005 wider than a 1485 series, so a 1485 in place a 1480 will be sloppy from the get go, and a 1480 in place of a 1485 will fit to tight and generate excessive heat leadind to premature joint failure. Also, if the billet yoke is indeed 1485 series, its a terrible upgrade for an 06 an older because there is not a quality 1485 series U-joint on the market Including the OEM AAM joint. Its a billet yoke, its got to be good, but what trucks does it actually fit?

A steel shaft will fix most problems. If you are going to drive it on the street go with a two piece shaft with a carrier. You wll get less vibration. A good steel shaft with spicer u joints will be in the 2-3 hundred range compared to 900-1000 for an ADM.

A steel shaft will fix most problems. If you are going to drive it on the street go with a two piece shaft with a carrier. You wll get less vibration. A good steel shaft with spicer u joints will be in the 2-3 hundred range compared to 900-1000 for an ADM.


2 piece shaft? the truck came with a 1 piece steel shaft. it's an extended cab short bed.

2 piece shaft? the truck came with a 1 piece steel shaft. it's an extended cab short bed.


Hell, i thought you had a CCSB and you spit out an aluminum stocker. Not sure why now that i look at your avatar a little closer. How the hell did you wrinkle up a stock steel one? They are seriously pretty stout. Your driveshaft is most likely repairable. Post a picture of what the driveshaft and end yoke on the diff look like. Do you know if the U-joint or the tube failed first?

A steel shaft will fix most problems. If you are going to drive it on the street go with a two piece shaft with a carrier. You wll get less vibration. A good steel shaft with spicer u joints will be in the 2-3 hundred range compared to 900-1000 for an ADM.


And that pretty much hits the nail on the head for the guys with the stock aluminum driveshaft.

the u joints, slip yoke, and yoke on the axle are all ok. the tube twisted so much that it pulled out of the t-case. I think I was actually pretty lucky. no cracks in the t-case or tranny and the splines appear to be straight.

I have a video and a pic I'll try to post up after work.

I think the decision maker got a little pissed at me for getting 2 full pulls and made the decision to destroy my shaft :)

Call Mark at Greensburg machine. Tell him it's for a pulling truck, he will set you up with good parts at a good price.

Call Mark at Greensburg machine. Tell him it's for a pulling truck, he will set you up with good parts at a good price.



where's he located?

can you pm me his number?

the u joints, slip yoke, and yoke on the axle are all ok. the tube twisted so much that it pulled out of the t-case. I think I was actually pretty lucky. no cracks in the t-case or tranny and the splines appear to be straight.

I have a video and a pic I'll try to post up after work.


Thats exactly whats supposed to happen, it curls up and pulls the driveshaft out of the output so the driveshaft stops spinning as soon as the trucks stops moving and doesn't free wheel at whatever the engine speed rockets to in turn beating the piss out of the under side of the truck.

Im not saying that heavier driveshafts shouldn't be used for pulling high horse applications ETC. , but most people are lost on the concept that the driveshaft is supposed to be a fuse of sorts and would rather puke transfer cases trannys and rear ends than a 3-$400 driveshaft that takes 10 minutes to change.

yeah good point

Call Mark at Greensburg machine. Tell him it's for a pulling truck, he will set you up with good parts at a good price.

Thats what I have in mine.

Thats what I have in mine.


how do you like it?

how do you like it?

Very nice piece. Ran it for nearly 5k miles or better now and knock on wood no problems. Ive been to 6 pulls with it as well with not at issue.

I thought you had a crew cab short bed. Sorry. I had my crew cab short bed switched over to a two piece steel shaft and it works well. A lot smoother on the street than the one piece steel shaft, that I went to after twisting the stock aluminum one.

I thought you had a crew cab short bed. Sorry. I had my crew cab short bed switched over to a two piece steel shaft and it works well. A lot smoother on the street than the one piece steel shaft, that I went to after twisting the stock aluminum one.

Your wife wasn't very impressed when you twisted the stocker lol...I remember!

Not at all

Thats exactly whats supposed to happen, it curls up and pulls the driveshaft out of the output so the driveshaft stops spinning as soon as the trucks stops moving and doesn't free wheel at whatever the engine speed rockets to in turn beating the piss out of the under side of the truck.

Im not saying that heavier driveshafts shouldn't be used for pulling high horse applications ETC. , but most people are lost on the concept that the driveshaft is supposed to be a fuse of sorts and would rather puke transfer cases trannys and rear ends than a 3-$400 driveshaft that takes 10 minutes to change.


Fuses allow you to lose. Its competition.

Fuses allow you to lose. Its competition.


Fuses can be changed in between classes, a busted axle allows you to lose and has the potential to ruin a whole rear end, a broken shaft in a T-case can ruin the entire case. Its not like running a gas class 10-15 years ago where a used transfer case was $75 and a used 14 bolt was $200 max. What do 263s and 11.5" 14 bolts cost now?

Either way, i predict sledheads rear driveshaft troubles are over;)

Oh and i finally got them damn heads on.....a year later obviously.

yeah my rear driveshaft troubles are pretty much over.

now onto the broken front shaft. 2 weeks in a row 2 broken driveshafts. 1 front 1 rear

im going to say maybe your big ass lift is not helping you any. my 2 cents
what do your pinon angles look like?

my pinion angles are perfect dude. Im not having problems with u joints or anythtimeline that. i only pretzeled the tube itself. I had a driveshaft builder build a driveshaft that will withstand anything.

I'm looking for a front one now though

heres a vid of the break in action

‪Altamont, NY pull of win and break‬‏ - YouTube

ok now i see. thats a keeper for sure LOL

hahaha yeah i ended up with 2 trophies that day

what setting was your hot +2 on. you made that look easy

im running EFILive from diesel addiction now. im all done with the ppe