'98+ Oil Cooler line GM Part #'s ??? [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: '98+ Oil Cooler line GM Part #'s ???


Goldsburg
08-25-2005, 12:53 PM
Does anyone have the GM part numbers handy for the factory oil cooler lines on a 98 6.5TD K2500 Ext Cab? The search function yielded nothing.

I would assume that these are the same for all 98's, but don't know that for sure. I need new oil cooler lines...-:t

Thanks!

Firefighter
08-25-2005, 02:20 PM
If you can, try a NAPA parts store. They have lines now and they are made by someone other than GM, and alot cheaper (price wise)!! They sure couldn't be any worse than the GM ones.

Turbine Doc
08-25-2005, 08:42 PM
Actually you can go NAPA, but I'd give Gregs lines a serious look , http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/ I have the older cloth style, if they ever start showing signs of distress I'll upgrade to the newer stainless set. spring clip OEM lines have been known to fail and tube pop out of the engine blocks fitting, nothing like starting your day off with a bang going 40 to 0 psi oil while on the hiway.

Goldsburg
08-26-2005, 10:47 AM
Actually you can go NAPA, but I'd give Gregs lines a serious look , http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/ I have the older cloth style, if they ever start showing signs of distress I'll upgrade to the newer stainless set. spring clip OEM lines have been known to fail and tube pop out of the engine blocks fitting, nothing like starting your day off with a bang going 40 to 0 psi oil while on the hiway.

TD - Thanks for the suggestion.

I don't have the time to completely rework my oil cooling system (to install Greg's kit). I will take my chances with the GM (or NAPA?) lines. I plan on installing new clips, if they are a separate piece from the new lines, and hoping for the best...:eek:

Turbine Doc
08-26-2005, 11:32 AM
Don't know if you've attempted the OEM line swap before, but just as easy to install Greg's lines IMO, I had planned to salvage mine and save for spares, wasn't in the cards GM on K1500, as you do not have sufficient clearance to make them an easy install/remove, I chopped mine out. Maybe your K2500 will be have more room. If you are looking for a low buck fast solution until you can afford time to go stainless, Try this idea I got on another site:

Where rubber sleeves are crimped to tubes & leak; take a Dremel tool or hacksaw blade, or file & CAREFULLY cut off the crimp sleeve, then take 2 stainless worm screw clamps at each fitting and clamp the rubber to the tube fitting, when finished there will be 2 clamps at each repair joint, once torqued take a piece of wire (aircraft stainless lock wire is awesome for this) lock bodies of both clamps together with the wire. This way if one clamp attempts to move the second clamp will hold the other in place, this could just about be a permanent fit, other than rubber getting hard & cracking and wire clip problem mentioned earlier.

Goldsburg
08-26-2005, 01:36 PM
Don't know if you've attempted the OEM line swap before, but just as easy to install Greg's lines IMO...

Uh oh :eek:. You are starting to scare me!! I have read about changing to Greg's lines, but you are telling me that the OEM swap is just as bad...?

Do you (or others) have a step-by-step break down on changing OEM lines (ie: 1. Remove grill, 2. Remove oil cooler...) ?

I was planning on just wingin' it as far as the change out, but if I have to pull the oil filter housing etc, then I am going to need more parts!:help2:

Maybe I should consult a Stealer to do the work...!:sheephump

Any and all reponses are MUCH appreciated...

Firefighter
08-26-2005, 01:58 PM
Grill has to come off, but it is easy. Take out your signal lights, 4 screws each and the srews at top by rad support. You need to be a bit carefull removing the bottom of the grill as it is held on with plastic tabs but as long as you are gentle, there will be no problem. :grd:

Goldsburg
08-26-2005, 02:15 PM
Grill has to come off, but it is easy. Take out your signal lights, 4 screws each and the srews at top by rad support. You need to be a bit carefull removing the bottom of the grill as it is held on with plastic tabs but as long as you are gentle, there will be no problem. :grd:


What about on the other end?

Do you HAVE to pull the oil filter housing? I thought I saw that in some other post about oil cooler lines. I do not have the o-rings (yet) that re-seal the housing against the block.

Thanks for all of your help...:beerchug:

CanadianRigger
08-26-2005, 02:40 PM
I did mine on the 00, YES you gotta pull the filter housing unless your a contortionist! Only took me say 6 or 8 hours but i wasn't working fast. (I went to stainless) Have pics somewhere here.

Goldsburg
08-26-2005, 03:57 PM
I did mine on the 00, YES you gotta pull the filter housing unless your a contortionist! Only took me say 6 or 8 hours but i wasn't working fast. (I went to stainless) Have pics somewhere here.

My Dad was convicted of contortion once, but only served 2 years.):h

...awh, haw, haw, haw...anywho.

It looks like it is time for my first write up: "Changing your 'Not Worth The Effort' Leaking Original GM Oil Cooler Lines"

Seriously though, I think this would be a great opportunity to dust off the old digital camera (I think that I still have the crank for it around SOMEWHERE):h ) and get this process documented.

What do you all think...:grd: or :badidea: ?

CanadianRigger
08-26-2005, 05:02 PM
Good idearrrr

ssorange
09-11-2005, 06:13 PM
Seriously though, I think this would be a great opportunity to dust off the old digital camera (I think that I still have the crank for it around SOMEWHERE):h ) and get this process documented.

What do you all think...:grd: or :badidea: ?
Still waitin on those pics!!!!

Goldsburg
09-11-2005, 06:29 PM
Still waitin on those pics!!!!

ssorange -

I understand, but I still have to :grd:

When it happens I WILL pull this thread TTT...agreed? :beerchug:

):h

viking
09-12-2005, 01:51 PM
No digital pic but this one may help some

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y210/mo-viking/Oilfilter1.jpg

Goldsburg
09-12-2005, 01:59 PM
Now I see why taking the oil filter housing off makes the change much easier!

Thanks!

partsguy662
09-12-2005, 02:00 PM
Goldy - Just so you know, Napa doesn't have a listing for the 6.5 lines newer than 97 yet...Looks like its either lubespec or GM's lines are your options..

cjk65
09-12-2005, 09:39 PM
As for the orings (2,3,8) GM only, as the guy at Napa and Autozone looked at me as if I was from Mars or something...

HH65
09-12-2005, 10:39 PM
If you change the fitting in the block ,your local parts store can make you lines which will work. Most parts houses can make high pressure hydraulic lines with the fitting size you need. You may have to go to a hydraulic speciality store to get the right size fittings. If I remember right, I used one straight and one 90*.

CanadianRigger
09-12-2005, 11:49 PM
Just to let you guys know, my after market kit came with the O rings for the housing too.

ssorange
09-13-2005, 01:39 AM
And once the lines are all installed, how do you bleed the air out of the cooler? Does it matter that air is in the cooler? Does the oil bypass the cooler ever?

Inquiring minds need to know.

-John

ssorange
09-13-2005, 01:54 AM
Goldy - Just so you know, Napa doesn't have a listing for the 6.5 lines newer than 97 yet...Looks like its either lubespec or GM's lines are your options..

I'll bet that they are Dorman brand part of their OE line. Check out Dorman part numbers 625-113 and 625-112. Are they for 1998-2002 2wd only? Are the 2wd's different from the 4wds?

www.motormitedormancatalog.com

I've had good luck calling to Dorman tech line. Maybe they have them now. Cant hurt to give them a call.

Just a thought.

-John

HH65
09-13-2005, 07:59 AM
And once the lines are all installed, how do you bleed the air out of the cooler? Does it matter that air is in the cooler? Does the oil bypass the cooler ever?

YES, on cold start up it will bypass the cooler and filter.

Goldsburg
09-13-2005, 09:05 AM
I'll bet that they are Dorman brand part of their OE line. Check out Dorman part numbers 625-113 and 625-112. Are they for 1998-2002 2wd only? Are the 2wd's different from the 4wds?

www.motormitedormancatalog.com (http://www.motormitedormancatalog.com)

I've had good luck calling to Dorman tech line. Maybe they have them now. Cant hurt to give them a call.

Just a thought.

-John

I took a look at them and they "look" like they would work, but where / how do you buy them? Who are the auto parts places that carry the Dorman line? I have access to Napa, Autozone, Carquest, Pronto, Advanced, and maybe a few others...?

ssorange
09-13-2005, 02:03 PM
I took a look at them and they "look" like they would work, but where / how do you buy them? Who are the auto parts places that carry the Dorman line? I have access to Napa, Autozone, Carquest, Pronto, Advanced, and maybe a few others...?

I dont know, I go to my local independent autoparts store and they order my Dorman stuff. I do know that Autozone carries Dorman, maybe if you supply the part number, they can order them.

Good luck!

-John

bowtie
09-13-2005, 02:42 PM
Just about EVERYONE carries the Dorman line of products. Just ask, If they don't someone else in town has to. I'm sure th O' Zones ( that be auto Zone and O'Reilly's) does and NAPA too I bet. Any parts Plus store should also.

Goldsburg
09-13-2005, 03:31 PM
Called Carquest:

Dorman 625-113 and 625-112 are $32.99 each.

I think I'll give them a try!

Thanks!:D