What does it take to get 33s on a duramax? I have a ford SD and they fit stock. My buddy wants to add 33s to his duramax, but his truck looks smaller than mine and he is not sure if they will fit. What does it take to run 33s? Thanks

for my 33 keeys and now my 33"bfg, i so farhave not done a thing, odd time their might be a rub on a sharp left turn when over a curb, some guys raise their torsion bars a few turns, fred

I saw on this page people were moving the bumpers out. I have 285's (32) and I trimmed the plastic beneath the bumper with a saws all. They used to rub quite a but but not often now. Drivers side only when the weigth is transferring oin a turn. It works o.k. I also cranked my torsion bars and that helped alot as well. I think 33's look to big for the front end stock. He will need to lift the bars or the truck a little to get it to look right.


Just an opinion

33/12.50-17's on H2 wheels.


No problems at all.


A few zip ties and some good shocks.





Thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifNY

running 35s with only torsion bar crank, but I have an after market bumper. rubbing occasionally, full turn while backing. should not have any issues with 33s

Is road armor the same as ranch hand?

no. road armor is an outfit out of washington state. cannot comment on ranch hand, but I like the road armor. much lighter than the ranch hand and very strong. does not stick out as far either

33/12.50-17's on H2 wheels.


No problems at all.


A few zip ties and some good shocks.





Thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifNY

Same here

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/05-2003-pics/images/DSCN3024.jpg

285-75-16 (MT/R) here (33) and no rubbing whatsoever. Torsion bars are up 1 in to help level the front end. Truck looks 226% better than stock 245's!! You should have no problem.


Jason

285's are not equivalent to 33x12.5. I believe the 305s are the same width. But i will pass this on. Thanks

Clydesdale,


I thought if you worked out the math, they were all about 33" tall. The width is not equivalent. Here is a pic straight from the Procomp website and it shows their 285's to be 33s.


Kevin


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/183_at1_19.gifEdited by: 2K2AD

Procomps are a 25,000 mile tire. I dont think they will last. I had a set and they were junk.

I am sorry to hear that. I have had my set on for about 15K and they still look new. Before I purchased mine, there were several on the board that were running them and recommended them. I am sorry you didn't have any luck with yours, I am very pleased with mine.


BTW - I think the A/Ts have a 50K treadlife warranty on them.


Kevin


Edited by: 2K2AD

I think I have at least 15,000 on mine with very little wear.

I have a different view on the 33s.


Stock trucks do not have enough wheel well clerance to run 285s on 16x8s--like I have--and they do not have adequate clearance even with the torsion bars raised 2"--like I have done. I have also re-formed the inner fender liners and tied back the parking brake cable. I am not terribly excited about having raised the torsion bars, though I did do it with specially designed keys and the ride is excellent.


I get rubbing when braking through a "dip" and turning the wheel. I might be able to get clearance by rolling back the inside aft corner of the fenders. That is where my clearance is lacking--it's about 3/4". There is no way I can run chains right now.


I have plenty of clearance on the front side of the wheel wells since I have a Frontier full front end replacement.


What gets me is a stock truck with 245s has about the same clearance as mine. This limited wheel well space is a bad idea from GM.


Blaine

<DIV>"Stock trucks do not have enough wheel well clerance to run 285s on 16x8s--like I have--and they do not have adequate clearance even with the torsion bars raised 2"--like I have done. I have also re-formed the inner fender liners and tied back the parking brake cable. I am not terribly excited about having raised the torsion bars, though I did do it with specially designed keys and the ride is excellent. "</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> this is my third duramax now, all thee had 33" tires, same senario on all, slight rub on a sharp left hand turn when crosing a curb like your sidewalk, and i have never had the bars lifted, or taken sharp tools to my fendershttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif i must be lucky</DIV>

Did you run stock wheels? 33s will clear better--but be less stable--on stock rims. My rims are 8" wide and that makes a difference.


However, my clearance criteria is probably greater than most. I want at least 1.5" at the least...................

Just stumbled onto this site and it looks like a great site. I am running 285's on 16x8 wheels with a 4.5" back spacingon my 2500HD and I have no rubbing issues. I have installed the GM "green keys" to raise the front 2" and did trim the front bumper cover about 1". I also had to zip tie the inner fenders back for clearance. I am running the factory slash gaurds also and have no rubbing. Check out my signiture for the pics.Edited by: 03GMC2500HD

the size of the tires have less to do with rubbing than back spacing on the wheel does. if you go with a wheel that has 5+" of back spacing, you will have lots of clearance. this is the reason some here have success running the H2 wheels and tires on a stock truck (albeit with the bars cranked). keep the tires tucked in and your OK


marc

My truck has 4.5" backspacing with my 16x8s and 285s. I have the nose up 2" with the Hill 4WD torsion bar keys. I have the parking brake cable tied back, and the fender liners tied back and reformed with a heat gun (BTW this works very well). I also have a front end replacement that has much more clearance than the stock bumper.


When I turn my steering wheel between 3/4 to full in either direction, my clearance goes down to about 3/4" between the tire and the rear inside portion of the fender well.


The rest of you guys with 285s or 33s. How much clearance do you have with the steering wheel turned 3/4 to full?


Blaine

305/70/16 maxxis buckshot mudders on stock wheels 48,000 miles on them and they'll get 10,000 more! oh yeah no rubbing tortion bars cranked up 1", 2500hd 2003 d-max

Come on you guys with 33s/285s/295s etc on 16x8s who claim no clearance issues with just cranked torsion bars. How much actual clearance do you have between the tire and the aft inside corner of the fender, with the steering wheel between 3/4 to full turn??? 1/4", 1/2", two feet???

there is less than a inch on mine. I had to trim quiet a bit and they still rub. I do not see how they will not rub. I had to have the tire shop trim mine a little before I could get out of the parking lot and then when I got home I trimmed even more.

Noprob,


Thanks. This is what I expected. 33s only clear only clear well when driving straight, or turning and not hitting too big of a bump. I am thinking that by lowering the bump stops--which GM designed as auxilliary springs--we might stop the rub.


On a stock HD, the bump stops just almost touch the lower A-Arms. When we crank up the torsion bars, these bump stop springs are raised off the lower A-Arm. I have noticed that a stock truck with 245s on factory rims has about as much clearance as what you and I have, but guys don't seem to have a problem with rubbing. Perhaps if we lower the bump stop springs back down, we won't have rub problems either.


However, we still can't run chains. To be honest, I don't see how a stock truck running 245s can run chains and make a turn requiring much more than 1/2 steering wheel travel without rubbing a lot.


BTW, our girlie man little wheel wells really tick me off. This is the weak point of out trucks. Not the Aluminum headed isuzu motor, not the Allison, not really even the Bosch injectors. It is the way GM set up the suspension. Why couldn't they have just bit the bullet and built an IFS with every component being beefy? We do have good CV axles on our HDs, but the tie rods and upper A-Arms are not stout.


This is bufoonery, pure and simple. I wish somebody made heavy duty suspension parts for our 4x4 HDs.


Blaine

I'm running 285-75/16 on my stock rims. Like some others, intermittent rubbing with sharp left turns over bumps. 3 turns on the torsion bars. Love the improved look and ride.

33-12.5/17's

Bars cranked only. The H2 Hummer wheels do a nice job with thier backspacing.

I get minor rubbing at full lock. Corner of my tire just touches the mudflap. I don't worry about it.

I have not trimmed anything.

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/05-2003-pics/images/DSCN3039.jpgEdited by: hoot

I have 285/75/16 Firestone Destinations on my stock rims with the Green keys. After about 4k miles they have never rubbed one bit. I went about 500 miles without the green keys and they did not rub either but it did look close.


Jesse

For those of you whose driving conditions are such that you only get rubbing during left hand turns, the fix should be fairly simple. If you haven't done so already, get a couple of heavy duty cable ties and tie back the parking brake cable. Then either tie back and/or reform the fender liner with a heat gun. Edited by: afp1

Im running 325/60-18 Nitto's that are almost 13 inches wide and the same height as 33". The tire shop turned my torsion bars and did some trimming of the inner fenders. Did have to cut some metal. Ill try and post some pics.


GM really needs to make some serious changes about tire clearance!!!!


Mike


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Tire_1.JPG


What I trimmed on the front.

What I trimmed in the back!


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Tire_2.JPG

Overall it looks like lots of clearance but when turned it with in a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I do not rub at all unless doing 100 MPH in reverse lurning left. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Tire_3.JPG

Thanks for the pics. I'll post some pics later this weekend.