Well, I too took the plunge and had my Mini Maxx installed Monday! I could not believe the wad of sh*t that came out from under my truck with the DOC, the super restrictive area where the DEF injects, not to mention the massive DPF and the maze of sensors, tubes, and crap associated with that thing! Mounted it on their pillar mount and while I haven't had a chance to play with it much yet, so far so good. No warning lights or check engine lights. Did notice that my fuel gauge fluctuates more than normal when stopping at a stop light/corner and called H&S about it. They said they have seen this in a few trucks, are aware of the problem, and are working on a software update to correct it.

It sounds like a diesel truck now! 5" exhaust downpipe back with a muffler. Nice low rumble on the highway yet not annoying at all. LOVE the turbo whine! Bought the truck in September and now have 31,000 miles so I drive it a lot. Hoping I'll see an improvement on the milage as well.

Time will tell but so far so good. I'll snap a few pictures later this afternoon and post them for you.

Later,
Matt

I am curious to the smell. Any of us that have a LML notice the sweet smell.

I am assuming the smell will be like my 03' now.

My wife will not be happy. She thinks it stinks!

Oh well

Congrats! I'm going to take the plunge as well as soon as I get back from Afghanistan. Any pics of it on the pillar? Any thoughts on how reversible the install is? I live in CA so I plan to keep all my stock stuff and go back to 100% stock when it comes time to smog the truck.

Thanks,
TJ

I've got a few pics I'll post and one of them is the pillar mount. Right now it's not painted to match the tan interior but I'm getting that taken care of Friday.

Removing the moniter is the simple part. It's the reinstall on the exhaust that would be a real pain. If you were to remove it carefully and welded in some bolted flanges, it could be done. But it would definately take some planning.

I kept all my exhaust crap just in case. Missouri (at least where I live anyway) doesn't require smog inspections.

Matt

116817

116818

I've got the smell too.

I've got a few pics I'll post and one of them is the pillar mount. Right now it's not painted to match the tan interior but I'm getting that taken care of Friday.

Removing the moniter is the simple part. It's the reinstall on the exhaust that would be a real pain. If you were to remove it carefully and welded in some bolted flanges, it could be done. But it would definately take some planning.

I kept all my exhaust crap just in case. Missouri (at least where I live anyway) doesn't require smog inspections.

Matt

The mount looks really good. I have a black interior so that should work out nicely! Which exhaust tip is that?

I'm curious what you mean about the flanges, did you have to cut out the stock exhaust? It wouldn't come out just unbolting things?

-TJ

With the flanges you would be able to take it out, and put it back, in sections. Its so large and unweildy I don't think you could take it out in one piece. Mine had to be cut out in four pieces with the DPF being the largest section. We went ahead and took out the DEF tank as well.

Yes, the pillar mount comes black. My truck has the tan interior but we ran out of time Monday while installing everything. Going to pop it off and paint it to match this weekend.

So far NO problems at all. Haven't had any long highway trips yet so haven't got a chance to check any milage gains.

Matt

With the flanges you would be able to take it out, and put it back, in sections. Its so large and unweildy I don't think you could take it out in one piece. Mine had to be cut out in four pieces with the DPF being the largest section. We went ahead and took out the DEF tank as well.

Yes, the pillar mount comes black. My truck has the tan interior but we ran out of time Monday while installing everything. Going to pop it off and paint it to match this weekend.

So far NO problems at all. Haven't had any long highway trips yet so haven't got a chance to check any milage gains.

Matt

Ah, that makes sense. I'll have to see if any shop around me can remove the stock exhaust without cutting it up.

I totally forgot the pillar on my truck is light grey even on the black interior (it's been too long since I've seen my truck, haha). I hope they end up molding it in that color since I can't see painting it light grey on top of the black working out too well.

-TJ

i removed mine without cutting it. you need a lift to bring the axle all the way down. then you need a helper to assist in guiding the whole exhaust above the back axle.

i removed mine without cutting it. you need a lift to bring the axle all the way down. then you need a helper to assist in guiding the whole exhaust above the back axle.

Great to know, thanks!

-TJ

I took the DPF off of my dad's '10 and without a lift there was no way to get it all out in one piece. I ended up taking a griding wheel the the tip and cutting the fingers off.

just jack the ass of the truck off the ground and it comes out in 1 piece on a 10'.

Just wanted to give a little update. I've had the tuner on right at 2 weeks now. Last weekend loaded up the 38' Raptor and headed to one of our favorite riding spots. Its about 2 hours one way pulling a fully loaded toy hauler with 3 ATV's, full fuel and water, about #15,000 all up.

No problems at all. Pulled it on the lowest setting of Mild and it did great. This truck already did much better that my '07 LMM with the same trailer but now is even better. In my experience, about the best way to find a questionable component of your truck is to throw a heavy trailer on and take off down the highway. Problems usually surface quickly.

Anyway, just letting you know.

Matt

Just wanted to give a little update. I've had the tuner on right at 2 weeks now. Last weekend loaded up the 38' Raptor and headed to one of our favorite riding spots. Its about 2 hours one way pulling a fully loaded toy hauler with 3 ATV's, full fuel and water, about #15,000 all up.

No problems at all. Pulled it on the lowest setting of Mild and it did great. This truck already did much better that my '07 LMM with the same trailer but now is even better. In my experience, about the best way to find a questionable component of your truck is to throw a heavy trailer on and take off down the highway. Problems usually surface quickly.

Anyway, just letting you know.

Matt

Did you get the EGT probe? How were EGTs pulling the trailer?

-TJ

did you get the egt probe? How were egts pulling the trailer?

-tj

x2??

Yes it has a probe and I was seeing 750-850 at 65-70 cruise. Now my installer was hesitant about drilling the header so this probe is in the downpipe post turbo, so it will be slightly lower. On my 07-1/2 LMM I drilled the header and installed it myself. With the LMM i regularly saw 1100-1200 pulling that trailer but that was with the DPF/factory exhaust still in place.

The H&S can moniter 2 probes. I have a 2nd probe on order and will install it in the header so I can see how much it really drops post-turbo. I can't help but think that it WILL run cooler with all the factory emmision crap removed.

I'll keep you updated.

Thanks,
Matt

i really like how your exhaust comes out the back with the tip sitting close to the bed. looks good with a nice tight fit.

I agree looks nice! My question is what kind of empty fuel mileage increases are you seeing? I'm trying to justify spending the money on a programmer and new exhaust. I want to know how long it will pay itself off with the fuel I save. On the hwy I get between 19.5 to 19.7, but when it goes into regen it drops like a rock to the low 15's. The idea of bringing the egt's down while towing our 38ft cedar creek custom(#17,200) sounds good too. Thanks for the updates so far...

I agree looks nice! My question is what kind of empty fuel mileage increases are you seeing? I'm trying to justify spending the money on a programmer and new exhaust. I want to know how long it will pay itself off with the fuel I save. On the hwy I get between 19.5 to 19.7, but when it goes into regen it drops like a rock to the low 15's. The idea of bringing the egt's down while towing our 38ft cedar creek custom(#17,200) sounds good too. Thanks for the updates so far...

I don't think you'll see a payoff for a long time if you're buying a programmer for just the MPG gain you may see.. The most benefit is obviously the power you gain.

^ Agreed, You will never really see a payoff for putting a ton of money into these trucks with aftermarket accesories. It is there for the fun, power and just to do it..
:duh:

Don't forget you can always resale the tuner and exhaust after your done with it though. Maybe get half your money back

I've got a long road trip coming up Wednesday so I'll be able to see what, if any, improvements in milage.

I'll let you know.

Matt

I've got a long road trip coming up Wednesday so I'll be able to see what, if any, improvements in milage.

I'll let you know.

Matt

:cool:

Look forward to hearing the results

My tuner is gonna pay for itself I was getting around 14mpg before and with an intake, exhaust, & mini maxx I'm at 18mpg ave (imperial mpg) I have seen as high as 21-22mpg on a long trip.

The best thing u can do to these trucks is delete all emissions bullshit. I did mine runs better than ever

For you guys with the emissions deleted tunes, do you still have the dead pedal in the 1--> 2 gears?

Yep still got dead pedal lol

What you guys talking about with the "dead pedal"? What's it doing? Is it something with the torque management?

No its the traction control system. Once it start to spin a little bit it just shifts right away:(

No its the traction control system. Once it start to spin a little bit it just shifts right away:(

What if you run with it disabled?

-TJ

What if you run with it disabled?

-TJ

I ran my truck at the strip in Phoenix. I ran it in 2WD traction control and stabilitrac off. Built up boost on the line and launched it. Tires spun and power cut off right away. The rear wheels stopped spinning. Let off the throttle and punched it and it picked up and took off. My time was 16.91 at 86.31 mph. I think I would have run low 15's if I launched it in 4X4. I may not have had the no power issue also. My thinking is the TCM would have seen the front and rear tires spinning together.

Ya turning it off don't help. H&s said they where working on turning it all off

I was looking in the owners manual and it is a torque management feature with the new allison.I hate it

I will probably ruffle a few feathers for saying this, but this truck is still a dog with the maxed out setting on the DPF Present tune.

That dead peddle at 1-2 gear is a killer, and these trucks will continue to be a dog until that gets tuned around. I don't think you say it will fill the DPF trap up as the LMM doesn't have this "dead pedal" no matter what tune is on it.

H&S, you have any plans for this?

Well I ran a 500 mile jaunt thru western Oklahoma and back Wednesday. Hand calculated at 19.8, DIC said 19.3. Was hoping to see a little better but that is all interstate at ~80 (Oklahoma turnpike speed limit is 75) so I can't complain. Pretty remarkable if you think about it. Nearing 20 MPG with a #7000 4x4 crew cab truck @ 80 MPH! Was averaging ~17-18 before the H&S. That was on the lowest tune level.

Yes, still has the dead pedal on the bottom. Not as bad, but its still there. Its that wonderful throttle-by-wire system! NOT!

Matt

I will probably ruffle a few feathers for saying this, but this truck is still a dog with the maxed out setting on the DPF Present tune.

That dead peddle at 1-2 gear is a killer, and these trucks will continue to be a dog until that gets tuned around. I don't think you say it will fill the DPF trap up as the LMM doesn't have this "dead pedal" no matter what tune is on it.

H&S, you have any plans for this?

The emissions standards for the 2011 LML are far different than that of the LMM. We can get around the "dead pedal" all we want, but at a risk of damaging emissions components along with entirely defeating the purpose of having a DPF present tune. The fact of the matter is that if you want it to run like it is unrestricted, you must remove the restrictions.

When will y'all get that done

correct me if im wrong. the dead pedal issue is only with the emmisions equipment present?

The emissions standards for the 2011 LML are far different than that of the LMM. We can get around the "dead pedal" all we want, but at a risk of damaging emissions components along with entirely defeating the purpose of having a DPF present tune. The fact of the matter is that if you want it to run like it is unrestricted, you must remove the restrictions.

Users with the emissions removed still say the dead pedal is there.. so?

Users with the emissions removed still say the dead pedal is there.. so?

I may be misinterpreting what you feel is "dead pedal". The LML is very responsive at almost all RPM / load ranges. I feel it is even more so than the LMM.

If you are saying that you would like the power to come in faster VS throttle percentage, it is easily attainable. The problem when doing tuning like that is that the benefits will be far overshadowed by the negative affects. Bringing in fueling too soon will cause the transmission shift points to be moved out of their desired range, as well as many other parameters inside the ECU itself. We try to tune in a much more linear fashion, using the entire 100% of the throttle range. I have seen all too many times that a tune will run 100% fuel at 60% throttle position. This may feel "powerful" to some, but to me it is a waste of a good chunk of your operating range.

I may be misinterpreting what you feel is "dead pedal". The LML is very responsive at almost all RPM / load ranges. I feel it is even more so than the LMM.

If you are saying that you would like the power to come in faster VS throttle percentage, it is easily attainable. The problem when doing tuning like that is that the benefits will be far overshadowed by the negative affects. Bringing in fueling too soon will cause the transmission shift points to be moved out of their desired range, as well as many other parameters inside the ECU itself. We try to tune in a much more linear fashion, using the entire 100% of the throttle range. I have seen all too many times that a tune will run 100% fuel at 60% throttle position. This may feel "powerful" to some, but to me it is a waste of a good chunk of your operating range.

Sorry, but my fathers LMM would leave this truck sitting from a dead stop pedal stomp.

When I say dead pedal, I mean just that. You push the pedal down and the truck acts as if you have applied 1/4 throttle (when in comparison to previous Duramax Generations).

I have owned LLY, LBZ and now LML. All trucks tuned. The LML feels slower compared to my last truck 2006 LBZ with banks 6 gun with speed loader stacked with diablo tuner, fass lift pump, H&s air intake and down pipe back 4 inch mbrp exhaust, but when me and my old truck lined up with my H&S dpf delete lml I walked alway from him easly! Old truck dynoed 450hp to wheels. The new LMLs are so smooth and quit, they are sneaky fast! I think H&S has a great tune and would recommend to any one! Turn your traction control off! I do not have dead pedal but trans could shift alittle faster in low gears. All my allisons where that way even ats trans with copiloit did not bang gears like a built t400 in old shit!

I have owned LLY, LBZ and now LML. All trucks tuned. The LML feels slower compared to my last truck 2006 LBZ with banks 6 gun with speed loader stacked with diablo tuner, fass lift pump, H&s air intake and down pipe back 4 inch mbrp exhaust, but when me and my old truck lined up with my H&S dpf delete lml I walked alway from him easly! Old truck dynoed 450hp to wheels. The new LMLs are so smooth and quit, they are sneaky fast! I think H&S has a great tune and would recommend to any one! Turn your traction control off! I do not have dead pedal but trans could shift alittle faster in low gears. All my allisons where that way even ats trans with copiloit did not bang gears like a built t400 in old shit!

Thanks! The smooth and quiet power seems to have some fooled that the LML is not as quick as the LMM. From the reviews we have gotten, the LML is right there with the LMM (if not in front of it).

How much power is the H&S capable of making as of now? Do they have any tunes that will get you up past 550rwhp yet? I'd love an LML but my 600hp LB7 still makes me smile :D and I'd hate to not have that power avaliable.

I do not think you are going to make 600hp with a lb7 with tune and exhaust only! maybe 425 to 450 tops to the rollers. New lml with H&S puts 500hp to rollers with tune and exhaust!When aftermarket catches up with new trucks should be able to make more power than ever and have a better drivetrain to handle it. My lb7 would limp mode stock trans at 400hp. Time will tell but new 11s are putting down 500hp and 1000tq and I have not heard of any ones limp moding yet?

I do not think you are going to make 600hp with a lb7 with tune and exhaust only! maybe 425 to 450 tops to the rollers. New lml with H&S puts 500hp to rollers with tune and exhaust!When aftermarket catches up with new trucks should be able to make more power than ever and have a better drivetrain to handle it. My lb7 would limp mode stock trans at 400hp. Time will tell but new 11s are putting down 500hp and 1000tq and I have not heard of any ones limp moding yet?

If you beat it to death it WILL have limp mode, no doubt about it.

Its not dead peddle its use tractio control system. It just shifts right away into second when u take off. Could y'all pleasie fix this .

Its not dead peddle its use tractio control system. It just shifts right away into second when u take off. Could y'all pleasie fix this .


Even with the TC and stabiltrac disabled??

Ya still does it

Ya still does it

Sure does.

I just put in my dpF delete and the hot tune. Not very impressed and I dought it has 500 HP. I will dyno it soon? It did do something funny the other day. It seamed to defuel bad and layed over and wouldn't shift. It has done this to me twice already. Other than that it runs and drives fine besides the fuel gauge fluctuation and the cruise control not working?

I just put in my dpF delete and the hot tune. Not very impressed and I dought it has 500 HP. I will dyno it soon? It did do something funny the other day. It seamed to defuel bad and layed over and wouldn't shift. It has done this to me twice already. Other than that it runs and drives fine besides the fuel gauge fluctuation and the cruise control not working?

H&S says if you take the speedo limiter off you loose cruise control.

Sounds like H&S needs to do some fine tuning to get these trucks to shift better and to fix the defueling on the bottom.

Any plans for some updated tuning H&S?

H&S says if you take the speedo limiter off you loose cruise control.

Sounds like H&S needs to do some fine tuning to get these trucks to shift better and to fix the defueling on the bottom.

Any plans for some updated tuning H&S?

Exactly! Any plans H&S?

They cannot make the trans shift better. I can.
IMHO if you make a claim on hp, run it at the strip and dyno the truck at Westech. The guys at Westech have been dynoing diesel truck for quite a while on their Superflow has tested many high performance diesel trucks and their numbers coincide with the actual power they produce.

They cannot make the trans shift better. I can.
IMHO if you make a claim on hp, run it at the strip and dyno the truck at Westech. The guys at Westech have been dynoing diesel truck for quite a while on their Superflow has tested many high performance diesel trucks and their numbers coincide with the actual power they produce.

You saying you can make them shift better with some differnt hard parts Mike?

You saying you can make them shift better with some differnt hard parts Mike?

I did not say that.

H&S says if you take the speedo limiter off you loose cruise control.



Sounds like H&S needs to do some fine tuning to get these trucks to shift better and to fix the defueling on the bottom.

Any plans for some updated tuning H&S?

I know but what good is it with a speed limiter? :D Anyone else have the defueling no shift issue or the fuel gauge fluctuation problems?

I did not say that.

Lol Mike it's hard to get anything out of you.:)

I was hoping I could get you to slip up and spill the beans on what you've got in store for these trannies ;)

I know but what good is it with a speed limiter? :D Anyone else have the defueling no shift issue or the fuel gauge fluctuation problems?

Agreed, they say they are working on a fix for it though

I just put in my dpF delete and the hot tune. Not very impressed and I dought it has 500 HP. I will dyno it soon? It did do something funny the other day. It seamed to defuel bad and layed over and wouldn't shift. It has done this to me twice already. Other than that it runs and drives fine besides the fuel gauge fluctuation and the cruise control not working?

Watch your fuel rail pressure when it falls flat. I bet your high pressure fuel pump is falling behind. The tuning on the LML is set right on the verge of what the factory fueling system can provide. Most trucks will be able to keep up, but we have seen a few that cannot. It's time for some modded pumps to see what this truck can really do. Throw that thing on a dyno and let us know the numbers. Make sure to watch your rail pressure, it should stay around 29,000 psi. If it falls off, you will see a drastic loss in power.

We have found that the fuel gauge fluctuation comes mostly just after a reflash, and will settle itself over time. Cruise control will only work if the speed limiter is left stock. We are working on a different way around the speed limiter, but for now this is the only option.

H&S says if you take the speedo limiter off you loose cruise control.

Sounds like H&S needs to do some fine tuning to get these trucks to shift better and to fix the defueling on the bottom.

Any plans for some updated tuning H&S?

We are looking into tuning the TCM for the LML. We do not have any projected release dates or time frames, so please do not ask. As we have seen on other platforms, there is a LOT to gain from being able to tune the transmission.

H&S, thanks for the quick replies. Looking forward to learning more about the product and what the future holds. Keep up the good work and progress.

I just put in my dpF delete and the hot tune. Not very impressed and I dought it has 500 HP. I will dyno it soon? It did do something funny the other day. It seamed to defuel bad and layed over and wouldn't shift. It has done this to me twice already. Other than that it runs and drives fine besides the fuel gauge fluctuation and the cruise control not working?


We got to try it out bro to see the difference, wild dpf vs hot no dpf.

Maybe time for a fass or airdog ?

Same here with the fuel gauge issue. The problem does seem to go away sometimes but always comes back.

I used my cruise control twice in my LB7 in two years. My new truck has no CC so I wouldn't mind you guys losing it. Lol

I know but what good is it with a speed limiter? :D Anyone else have the defueling no shift issue or the fuel gauge fluctuation problems?

My truck does the "No Upshift" thing to me once in a while...... It seems like it goes into defuel for the 2-3 upshift, and then never comes out of it unless you let off......Annoying. It only does it on the "Hot" tune.

My truck does the "No Upshift" thing to me once in a while...... It seems like it goes into defuel for the 2-3 upshift, and then never comes out of it unless you let off......Annoying. It only does it on the "Hot" tune.

My cousin complained of this issue on his bone stock LML a while back. Sounds like some fine tuning could fix these little issues.

Any new updates on info talked about in this thread. I have a out of state 2011 coming in for a big suspension build and the customer is open to almost anything I can put together and I feel good about so I am trying to gather info on what we can do with it.


This thread has some great reading, thanks for the info guys.

Any new updates on info talked about in this thread. I have a out of state 2011 coming in for a big suspension build and the customer is open to almost anything I can put together and I feel good about so I am trying to gather info on what we can do with it.


This thread has some great reading, thanks for the info guys.
I enjoy everything about my HS mini Maxx... However, I am one of the few individuals (along with several others on this forum) that have the hiss problem. According to HS this is "normal" (which its not). So, until they have a fix for it I wouldn't do it to a customers vehicle, or at least making him aware of the potential problem first and foremost.

I enjoy everything about my HS mini Maxx... However, I am one of the few individuals (along with several others on this forum) that have the hiss problem. According to HS this is "normal" (which its not). So, until they have a fix for it I wouldn't do it to a customers vehicle, or at least making him aware of the potential problem first and foremost.

Bentley @ H&S has been working with me on the issue - though it's not solved yet. I've been overseas on business a few weeks so I haven't pinged him lately, I will now. FWIW he sent me a file to run to demonstrate the idle w/o hiss that is not actually drivable and it sounds AMAZING. It's certainly worth holding out for the real fix!

I also wouldn't hesitate to put the H&S and full deletes on now even with the hiss, it drives so, so, SO much better and sounds great other than idle.

-TJ

Bentley @ H&S has been working with me on the issue - though it's not solved yet. I've been overseas on business a few weeks so I haven't pinged him lately, I will now. FWIW he sent me a file to run to demonstrate the idle w/o hiss that is not actually drivable and it sounds AMAZING. It's certainly worth holding out for the real fix!

I also wouldn't hesitate to put the H&S and full deletes on now even with the hiss, it drives so, so, SO much better and sounds great other than idle.

-TJ
Have you had any issues with your EGT's at WOT? Over the past few months mine have been hitting the 2200 degree MAX at WOT.... Just wondering if its just me, my PCH board, or if it has something to do with the hiss...

Have you had any issues with your EGT's at WOT? Over the past few months mine have been hitting the 2200 degree MAX at WOT.... Just wondering if its just me, my PCH board, or if it has something to do with the hiss...

:eek:

I hope the LML can handle that, my LMM would have a hole in the piston if I did that.

im on the rope with the delete. I want an XRT pro with the delete but im not really sure what to do. Any thoughts?

im on the rope with the delete. I want an XRT pro with the delete but im not really sure what to do. Any thoughts?
Here is my .2$- If you are not having the DEF/UREA issue, then I would wait until HS resolves some tuning issues. I would not want anyone else being stuck with or re-living my experiences after dropping 1K+ and losing the factory warranty. Again, thats just my $.02

:eek:

I hope the LML can handle that, my LMM would have a hole in the piston if I did that.
It has so far... But it wont handle it for very long. I have a feeling I'm running on VERY thin ice with this.....

Dude......2200degrees! Wow! Mine hit 1890 yesterday when I finally noticed it with straight water injecting at 100%, 72degree ambient temps at near sea level elevation. I was worried about that......and your at 2200! I guess I dont feel so worried now if yours stayed together. I thought for sure the manifold or up pipes would crack at that temp.

Here is my .2$- If you are not having the DEF/UREA issue, then I would wait until HS resolves some tuning issues. I would not want anyone else being stuck with or re-living my experiences after dropping 1K+ and losing the factory warranty. Again, thats just my $.02

Well my thought was to get it and hold on to it until my warranty gets closer to running out. I don t want to be ready to get one and not be able to in 5 years due to the EPA. So if I got it now I could update it and slap it in when the time came

Have you had any issues with your EGT's at WOT? Over the past few months mine have been hitting the 2200 degree MAX at WOT.... Just wondering if its just me, my PCH board, or if it has something to do with the hiss...

I'm "only" running the WILD tune currently. With an empty truck I can only get it up to mid/high-1200s. With about 10k lbs of trailer I got to about 1450 with a few gears of WOT. I suspect something is wrong with your EGT probe because I just can't see making 2200 degrees - nor your engine living to tell about it.

-TJ

Agreed!! I don't see anyway you're seeing EGT's that high, definitely a problem with your probe. '
I'm trying to figure out which "tune" I like the best, mild or wild, both work great, but mileage seems better in town using wild, but better on the hwy with mild... hmmm

to all of you that did the delete of everything... how do you go about disconnecting everything and/or removing it? I was thinking about doing this, but just wondering what has to be done to remove all the extra junk?

I'm "only" running the WILD tune currently. With an empty truck I can only get it up to mid/high-1200s. With about 10k lbs of trailer I got to about 1450 with a few gears of WOT. I suspect something is wrong with your EGT probe because I just can't see making 2200 degrees - nor your engine living to tell about it.

-TJ

Agreed!! I don't see anyway you're seeing EGT's that high, definitely a problem with your probe. '
I'm trying to figure out which "tune" I like the best, mild or wild, both work great, but mileage seems better in town using wild, but better on the hwy with mild... hmmm

I agree in sounds insane.... I will replace the probe and see if that helps...

to all of you that did the delete of everything... how do you go about disconnecting everything and/or removing it? I was thinking about doing this, but just wondering what has to be done to remove all the extra junk?

It comes with all of the instructions you need to do it. If you are even a little mechanically inclined and have the right tools it is not too bad.

to all of you that did the delete of everything... how do you go about disconnecting everything and/or removing it? I was thinking about doing this, but just wondering what has to be done to remove all the extra junk?

It all comes with instructions and is very easy to do with simple hand tools. You could do it yourself, but it always helps to have an extra set of hands. If you run into trouble, you can always give us a holler as well.

I agree that it is very easy with the exception of the removal of the DOC. Unless your cutting it out, the trans X-member needs to be removed to do allow clearance to do so. ;)

I agree in sounds insane.... I will replace the probe and see if that helps...
Well, here is something interesting.... I chose not to replace the probe or anything else just yet....

on the HS MM 6.6.11 I was having the issues with the high EGT's reaching 2025 degrees (Max) on HOT,MILD, and WILD from WOT and while passing....

Then, I updated to 6.6.12....

So, I Towed my 8K trailer over to my hunting spot this weekend (266 miles) on WILD.... Highest I my EGT's got were 1285 UP hill (very steep grade for about 2-3 miles), at 80 MPH... Ran like a dream.....
So, I then drove the truck around for a few doing WOT and still only getting 1000ish (MAX) on the WILD.
So, on the way back, (No Trailer) I switched back to HOT for the 266 mile drive back. Now, we are reaching 1985 (MAX) on the EGT again at WOT 0-60 and while passing.. 50-80MPH....
This tells me that its NOT a probe, PCH board, or anything else except the HS tuning on the HOT setting......
I don't see this as "normal" for my truck.... Anyone else?

I have 6.6.11 and under hard load can pull 1450 to 1500 egt hooked to 30k
pulling sled! I think you are loosing rail pressure because before I installed lift pump I was loosing rail pressure and egts where crazy hot. Watch your rail pressure and if drops below 26k your going to start having problems. fass lift pump helped mine.

I have 6.6.11 and under hard load can pull 1450 to 1500 egt hooked to 30k
pulling sled! I think you are loosing rail pressure because before I installed lift pump I was loosing rail pressure and egts where crazy hot. Watch your rail pressure and if drops below 26k your going to start having problems. fass lift pump helped mine.

How do you read the rail pressure off the H & S - I have the Mini Max but cant seem to find rail pressure

With tuner on go to menu and choose gauge set up and pick ICP, that is your rail pressure. I put in place of trans temp because you can use factory trans gauge.

I have blackmax. Maybe it is not avaliable on mini?

Thank you

I have 6.6.11 and under hard load can pull 1450 to 1500 egt hooked to 30k
pulling sled! I think you are loosing rail pressure because before I installed lift pump I was loosing rail pressure and egts where crazy hot. Watch your rail pressure and if drops below 26k your going to start having problems. fass lift pump helped mine.


So did the lift pump solve the problem or just help it? Just trying to do some research here...

On the street full throttle hot setting can hit 1300 to 1400. When I hooked last weekend at truck pull my peak temp was 1500. Before I had lift pump as soon as I lost rail pressure would read 1600 plus and was climbing fast and I would have H&S temp alert set at 1650 so would shut me down. So yes the lift pump solved my problem. I have not once dropped rail pressure since install of lift pump but have ony had it on for a little while.

On the street full throttle hot setting can hit 1300 to 1400. When I hooked last weekend at truck pull my peak temp was 1500. Before I had lift pump as soon as I lost rail pressure would read 1600 plus and was climbing fast and I would have H&S temp alert set at 1650 so would shut me down. So yes the lift pump solved my problem. I have not once dropped rail pressure since install of lift pump but have ony had it on for a little while.

1650 sounds a little high to de-fuel at...I think 1400 is too high really, I'd be looking for something to cool those EGT's water/meth, down pipe, intake...something!

Yes I agree, but my lbz would pull 1600 plus hooked to the sled and never had problems that high for short pulls. I would not want to hold that temp for very long! I am still running factory cat and down pipe. I am sure removing that would help.

I monition the rail pressure pretty close and am not seeing a drop at all. Its actually holding steady at 29-30 ish. I am looking into a lift pump just to be sure though....

I monition the rail pressure pretty close and am not seeing a drop at all. Its actually holding steady at 29-30 ish. I am looking into a lift pump just to be sure though....

Which tune?

-TJ

My LBZ also pegged the guage at 1600 when hooked to a sled on the max effort tune from Rob. Didn't seem to hurt it though.
I would like to know what you are seeing on the street and towing, EGT wise. Also what is your boost running? Is it less than your LBZ (with stock charger). Mine would hit 30-32 on the max effort and hot street on the LBZ.

With your reply we might be able to see if maybe the smaller turbo on the LMM has an effect on the EGT's. Being smaller, the initial EGT's would be lower with the quicker spool but possibly get higher on the top end as the turbo reaches it's max potential.

Just spit balling here...

Which tune?

-TJ
WILD and HOT tune... I am seeing a difference in 6.6.11 vs. 6.6.12.
6.6.12 EGT will be in normal range on wild tune even while towing. However, HOT, not towing, on 6.6.12 EGT's are still maxing at 2200+....

WILD and HOT tune... I am seeing a difference in 6.6.11 vs. 6.6.12.
6.6.12 EGT will be in normal range on wild tune even while towing. However, HOT, not towing, on 6.6.12 EGT's are still maxing at 2200+....

I still suggest to replace the thermocouple. That way there is no question as to the integrity of the temperature reading. Right now you are basing assumptions on what could be a very unstable variable. Remove the doubt and replace the thermocouple. You can also diagnose by watching the EGTs as you run at WOT. Are they climbing steadily until 2200? Or is there a large jump in there that looks suspicious? Just some suggestions to help move you towards a solution. We would love to test your pyrometer parts here at the H&S facility, and will gladly replace yours with new ones. No use :deadhorse: when the problem can be resolved with a few quick tests.

I still suggest to replace the thermocouple. That way there is no question as to the integrity of the temperature reading. Right now you are basing assumptions on what could be a very unstable variable. Remove the doubt and replace the thermocouple. You can also diagnose by watching the EGTs as you run at WOT. Are they climbing steadily until 2200? Or is there a large jump in there that looks suspicious? Just some suggestions to help move you towards a solution. We would love to test your pyrometer parts here at the H&S facility, and will gladly replace yours with new ones. No use :deadhorse: when the problem can be resolved with a few quick tests.

The EGT's are climbing steady at WOT. I will order a new pyro and send the old one to HS for testing.
HS, would you like the pyro and the PCH board, or just the pyro???
Thanks in advance!

The EGT's are climbing steady at WOT. I will order a new pyro and send the old one to HS for testing.
HS, would you like the pyro and the PCH board, or just the pyro???
Thanks in advance!

We would love the pyro and PCH both. Instinct says that if a problem exists, it is in the thermocouple, but the PCH have been known to have issues as well.

Give us a call. No need to purchase more product. We can simply have you ship your stuff to us for testing, and we will repair/replace as necessary.

A few questions about the H&S tuner and exhaust for LML. I am about to pull the trigger on the H&S and DPF delete for my LML as soon as I save some extra $$$$. I talked with a diesel performance shop about the products and install and they are suggesting the mini max with 5" flo pro annodized exhaust instead of stainless. I am wondering if flo pro is a good decision or the MRBP? Also if I should do the downpipe and delete the cat and does it sound better with muffler or straight pipe from turbo back? My old truck was really loud (Gasser) and I liked it but I have also got use to not waking everybody up in the neighborhood with the new truck. The guy I spoke with also said he would not suggest the pyrometer because the truck is so new and you have to drill the manifold to install pyrometer???? For those of you that have the H&S did you go with the pillar mount and does it have to be painted to match truck(tan interior)? He also suggested AFE intake becuase that is what they carry in stock but he said he can order the banks intake for me for the $359 price. He said AFE was rated really good but I have heard a lot more about the banks.

Any Thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

Also the main reason I want to do the tuner and exhaust is for MPG gains if any but the extra power will also put a smile on my face!!! What can I expect from mileage gains. I average around 14 now mostly town and country roads with some highway miles thrown in there every now and again (150-200 per tank I am guessing).

We would love the pyro and PCH both. Instinct says that if a problem exists, it is in the thermocouple, but the PCH have been known to have issues as well.

Give us a call. No need to purchase more product. We can simply have you ship your stuff to us for testing, and we will repair/replace as necessary.
Ok, will do. But with out a new pryo to put in the hole, how do you suggest I plug the hole in the manifold while my old one is being shipped?
I have a new one on order. I will send the old one and pch board back to HS for testing once I get time to install...

really?....A pipe plug ..... "Hs I feel your pain"

really?....A pipe plug ..... "Hs I feel your pain"
hmm.... As if I didn't already think of that?.... Feel free to put a .10 cent pipe plug in your $10K motor.... Personally, Id rather leave the base that's already tapped into the manifold and plug in a new pyro... The only "pain" would be doing it the cheaper, longer, and more difficult way as you suggest.

The .10 cent pipe plug will be fine. The fitting your taking out is .18cents.

Either way, why do double the work?... Ill stick with the new pyro. I don't see a need to change the base.

You should buy a ford dude you dont deserve a duramax

Double the work? Good luck to H&S dealing with this guy.

A few questions about the H&S tuner and exhaust for LML. I am about to pull the trigger on the H&S and DPF delete for my LML as soon as I save some extra $$$$. I talked with a diesel performance shop about the products and install and they are suggesting the mini max with 5" flo pro annodized exhaust instead of stainless. I am wondering if flo pro is a good decision or the MRBP? Also if I should do the downpipe and delete the cat and does it sound better with muffler or straight pipe from turbo back? My old truck was really loud (Gasser) and I liked it but I have also got use to not waking everybody up in the neighborhood with the new truck. The guy I spoke with also said he would not suggest the pyrometer because the truck is so new and you have to drill the manifold to install pyrometer???? For those of you that have the H&S did you go with the pillar mount and does it have to be painted to match truck(tan interior)? He also suggested AFE intake becuase that is what they carry in stock but he said he can order the banks intake for me for the $359 price. He said AFE was rated really good but I have heard a lot more about the banks.

Any Thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

Find another shop!!

You should buy a ford dude you dont deserve a duramax

Double the work? Good luck to H&S dealing with this guy.

Lay off Surfacediver! I can see why he wouldn't want to do it twice. I would suck it up and do it but to each their own.

Find another shop!!

Seriously!

Find another shop!!

I don't think the shop needs to be discredited because the guy told me he wouldn't prefer installing the pyrometer. They told me they will install if I want it but I was questioning it myself because I didn't like the idea of drilling into the manifold. He told me I can add it at anytime if I decided I did want it. My main question here was is the pyrometer needed? I know the pyrometer shows the EGT's but can't you also monitor the truck by the actual truck gauges Temp, Oil, etc... to tell if the truck is running to hot?

The performance shop is highly recommended from many diesel owners around the area and they have done quite a few H&S tuners for the LML already. I just wanted to salvage the stock exhaust and be able to return truck back to stock in the future if I decide to trade or sale truck. I am sure I could do a plug if the pyrometer was taken off but if I don't need it then I just wouldn't install it.

O dear I would never dream of putting a cheap pipe plug in a manifold......:D

Lay off Surfacediver! I can see why he wouldn't want to do it twice. I would suck it up and do it but to each their own


Whats to do twice?? He has to remove the EGT probe from the fitting anyway...how much more work can it possibly be to take the fitting out and install a plug into the hole?

I don't think the shop needs to be discredited because the guy told me he wouldn't prefer installing the pyrometer. They told me they will install if I want it but I was questioning it myself because I didn't like the idea of drilling into the manifold. He told me I can add it at anytime if I decided I did want it. My main question here was is the pyrometer needed? I know the pyrometer shows the EGT's but can't you also monitor the truck by the actual truck gauges Temp, Oil, etc... to tell if the truck is running to hot?

The performance shop is highly recommended from many diesel owners around the area and they have done quite a few H&S tuners for the LML already. I just wanted to salvage the stock exhaust and be able to return truck back to stock in the future if I decide to trade or sale truck. I am sure I could do a plug if the pyrometer was taken off but if I don't need it then I just wouldn't install it.
You can't tell if your running high EGT's by the looking at coolant temp, if you plan to leave the H&S on stock power or mild at most you could get along without one, but if you want to turn it up and play you should be monitoring your EGT's....I understand it's a new pickup, but if it's a good shop like you say it is there shouldn't be any problem with them drilling your manifold.

The new probe is here... I will run the new one for a day and then ship the old one and PCH board to HS for them to test. To each is own on this subject as RCK-CRWLR suggested. To explain in detail my personal logic behind it so everyone would understand would take longer than its is worth. End of subject.... back on topic....

I have a question for you H&S guys.. Love your product btw! Just wondering if it is possible to add messages to the DIC? What I am interested in is conformation displayed when the truck goes into and out of four wheel drive. Its easy to knock the fwd control with your knee when getting into your truck,, a message would be better than that silly little light you can barely see on the knob. Just curios