Sorry if this is covered somewhere else but any help would be appreciated.

I have decided on a Heartland 3010 5er and will be towing with my 04 2500 shortbed. The first question is will I need an airbag system or something to help level this rig? The GVWR is 14,000 and the pin weight is 2300.

I have been towing a trailer and am new to 5ers so am lacking in experience in what to expect. I am not even sure what questions to ask but I guess this is a start.

Also, I have seen the Husky AirSafe King Aire pinbox and am wondering if this is necessary or an advantage with towing.

Yes, get some air bags. My last 5th wheel (40' Fleetwood) had a pin weight of 2200lbs. The air bags were needed.
I have the Air-lift wireless remote system and realy like it. Got it from Nate at PTP (see sig). I just bought a Heartland 395 Road Warrior, Great 5th wheels. I have the factory Pin on mine with no plans on changing it, don't know about the Husky AirSafe King Aire pinbox.

You'll love the fiver, they're a dream compared to a ball hitch trailer.

I wouldn't worry about bags to begin with - you will probably find it's fine without them, and airbags add their own set if potential problems sometimes.

Going with a fancy pinbox is a matter of personal preference depending on how much the typical "chuck" that some combinations exhibit you end up with. (Search for the word chuck in the towing forum here, there was another thread recently where it was discussed).

Personall, like the airbags, I'd try without it to begin with - adding a pinbox after the fact is easy DIY if you decide you want/need it. No need to spend the money up front if you find you are happy without it initially.

You will know if you need airbags, or not, the first time you hook it up loaded. If the truck and trailer are level you likely won't need them; if the rear of the truck and front of the trailer are low then you need them. Lots of other senarios also in which you may also need to adjust pin box or trailer height, or both and bags also. End result is that you want everything as level as possible when you travel with your typical load.

I pull a 40' Jayco 365 BHS with my '05 2500HD. Pin weight was stated as 2,400# (I've been across scales and its closer to 3,000# loaded.) I put air bags on after the first pull. I've run anywhere between 25 psi and 75 psi in the bags and have found that about 40 psi works the best. Too much air will cause it to bounce really bad across bridges, etc. The truck is stock except for the air bags and Toyo 265 tires. Pulled the camper on several long trips and it feels fine...even in really high winds. I've also considered other upgrades due to the pin weight. Can't really get a straight answer on the stock wheel rating and have wondered if going to a slightly wider wheel (one that I know the weight rating of) would be worth the money.

I pull a 40' Jayco 365 BHS with my '05 2500HD. Pin weight was stated as 2,400# (I've been across scales and its closer to 3,000# loaded.) I put air bags on after the first pull. I've run anywhere between 25 psi and 75 psi in the bags and have found that about 40 psi works the best. Too much air will cause it to bounce really bad across bridges, etc. The truck is stock except for the air bags and Toyo 265 tires. Pulled the camper on several long trips and it feels fine...even in really high winds. I've also considered other upgrades due to the pin weight. Can't really get a straight answer on the stock wheel rating and have wondered if going to a slightly wider wheel (one that I know the weight rating of) would be worth the money.

I may be wrong, but it is my understanding that the higher rated tires are all for narrower rims. Look at the G's and J's.

You may be right about the narrower wheels. I read a thread talking about increased stability of wider wheels/tires. I believe 265's are really as wide as you wante to put on the stock 6.5" wheels (from what I've read.) I'm not interested in going any bigger. I think Goodyear may have an E tire rated at 3,750#...My Toyo E's are rated at 3,415#. Either is plenty. If the wheel isn't rated for more than 3,000# or 3,200#, a higher rated tire won't do much good. For the original poster's question about air bags...I've got a buddy that installed automatic bags on his Ford, and they work great to level the truck when connected. The problem I have with the automatic ones, is lack of tuning. He can't adjust his air if the bounce is too bad. His also cost about $900 installed compared to my $400.

These pin weights that you guys are talking about, are they not WAY too much for a 2500HD? Pretty sure the payload capacity on my 05 2500HD was only like 1700lbs.

These pin weights that you guys are talking about, are they not WAY too much for a 2500HD? Pretty sure the payload capacity on my 05 2500HD was only like 1700lbs.


Mine is about the same 9200-7500=1700. There are plenty of threads on the subject. It appears almost every 2500 you see pulling a 5th wheel over 30' is probably over its payload. I don't want a dually. It appears they are making the newer 2500's with more payload, so maybe I can buy one of those in a few years. Some people point at legality or getting ticketed, which I think is bull. A State Policeman was on here once and said they are only conserned with road limits 40,000#+. My wife was an insurance adjuster, and she said the weight question would never be asked if we were in an accident. My buddy, who pulls a 40' 5th wheel with a F250 and sales insurance, said the same thing. So, for me, that makes it a matter of personal comfort level.

You will be overloaded. I know, I see overloaded 2500 trucks towing monsters here on I-35 all day long, so lots do it. Tow it at your own peril.
With that much weight:
Towing with a 2500 is white knuckle;
Towing with a dually is a pleasure......
Your choice.
You might also consider a good set of sway bars.

Clearly a case of too much trailer or too little truck.

As far as pin weight for 2500hd 4x4 crew cab, standaed box in 08. The GM owners manual reads, fith-wheel or gooseneck weight up to 3000 lbs maximum.

I didn't pay much attention to the weight in the original post.

The Heartland 3010 is only a 33' fiver which would normally put it in the 10K# range empty, well within the capability of a 2500....Sure enough, it's empty weight is about 11K, so about 12K would be the "normal" loaded capacity.

However, it's a toy hauler, which I didn't notice. That explains the 14,000# GVWR.

Yeah, that's gonna be heavy for a 2500 especially given the high pinweight when unloaded that is common with toy haulers.

You will be overloaded. I know, I see overloaded 2500 trucks towing monsters here on I-35 all day long, so lots do it. Tow it at your own peril.
With that much weight:
Towing with a 2500 is white knuckle;
Towing with a dually is a pleasure......
Your choice.
You might also consider a good set of sway bars.

White knuckle???????? Really

I didn't pay much attention to the weight in the original post.

The Heartland 3010 is only a 33' fiver which would normally put it in the 10K# range empty, well within the capability of a 2500....Sure enough, it's empty weight is about 11K, so about 12K would be the "normal" loaded capacity.

However, it's a toy hauler, which I didn't notice. That explains the 14,000# GVWR.

Yeah, that's gonna be heavy for a 2500 especially given the high pinweight when unloaded that is common with toy haulers.

If you think that the difference between dry weight and loaded weight is only 1000lbs, I'd like to join you in whatever it is that you are smoking.

My picture is of a 36 footer on a 2500HD. Over the rating, yes, drive prudently, absolutely.

With that trailer empty from the dealer, I can drive it likely a car.

Drop 4000 lbs into it for a winter vacation, and you will know the trailer is back there. But following on what I said above, drive like you would drive a Class 8 and you shouldn't have any problems. I have rigged my truck for this load also, air bags, electric/hydraulic (not inertia) brake control, fifth wheel set forward, come to mind.

Keep the fun factor high on the list. I don't think we have to keep up with the 75-80 MPH Interstate traffic. It's a lot more gentle on the nerves to settle in about 60-65 and enjoy the trip. Winning the race is crossing the finish line, not first, but just getting there.

If you think that the difference between dry weight and loaded weight is only 1000lbs, I'd like to join you in whatever it is that you are smoking.

On a typical travel trailer (Solely a camper, not a toy hauler) round-abouts 1000# above the scaled empty weight is typically the accepted loading-weight.

Obviously, on a toy hauler that's going to be signifigantly more and the commonly accepted 1000# contents weight doesn't apply in this case. In this situation, the difference between the stated empty weight (11,000, likely closer to 11500 after accessories and propane is added, etc) and the GVWR (~14000#) that gives you about another 2500# of capacity between your gear, and the filling the toybox.

My picture is of a 36 footer on a 2500HD. Over the rating, yes, drive prudently, absolutely.

With that trailer empty from the dealer, I can drive it likely a car.

Drop 4000 lbs into it for a winter vacation, and you will know the trailer is back there. But following on what I said above, drive like you would drive a Class 8 and you shouldn't have any problems. I have rigged my truck for this load also, air bags, electric/hydraulic (not inertia) brake control, fifth wheel set forward, come to mind.

Keep the fun factor high on the list. I don't think we have to keep up with the 75-80 MPH Interstate traffic. It's a lot more gentle on the nerves to settle in about 60-65 and enjoy the trip. Winning the race is crossing the finish line, not first, but just getting there.

Exactly. My 40' Jayco pulls like a dream at about 65-68 (right at 2,000 rpm with cruise set.) It takes a pretty descent hill to make it drop out of overdrive. I keep my brakes dialed up a little higher than I did with my smaller camper. Driven several 10 hour days with it and haven't noticed any white in my knuckles. Pulled in some severe crosswinds without any complaints. Passed guys in those winds pulling their travel trailers having to fight to keep them in the road.

You will be overloaded. I know, I see overloaded 2500 trucks towing monsters here on I-35 all day long, so lots do it. Tow it at your own peril.
With that much weight:
Towing with a 2500 is white knuckle;
Towing with a dually is a pleasure......
Your choice.
You might also consider a good set of sway bars.

Respectfully disagree. But do understand why people make these statements.

As far as pin weight for 2500hd 4x4 crew cab, standaed box in 08. The GM owners manual reads, fith-wheel or gooseneck weight up to 3000 lbs maximum.

That's the standard statement they put in all manuals for all 3/4 ton trucks. The standard statement for all duallys is 3,500#.

Neither number has anything to do with the capacity of any vehicle.

I had to add the follow-up to my post. I have now pulled this unit (Cyclone 3010) on several trips. Loaded with full water, quads and all the camping gear and unloaded with nothing but the empty 5er. I installed airbags to level the load out, although it was not really that un-level without. I have always stayed at 65 when pulling. I am in no hurry. I am over with a full load but my observations are:
1. No difference in tracking/pulling in either case. It pulls like a dream.
2. Sunset Point grade and Verde Valley grade I am still blowing Dodges and Fords off the road up the hills.
3. It shifts down sooner with the load but still maintains a safe speed up the grades.
4. I set the brake controller to give me a little more trailer brake than with the lighter trailer and that setup does well.

I understand the "you are over and in big danger" from some but the big part of any setup is to avoid driving over your capabilities and understand what the tow vehicle will do in most situations.

Thanks for all of the advice.

I have installed air bags on all of my trucks. helps the ride and keeps it level. I had a 2004 2500HD and put 265 tires on it - came with 245s.(265s have about 400lbs more load rating than 245s). - GVWR 9200 lbs. My 2004 weighted about 7000lbs with no fifth wheel hitch in it. So - you are probably above the GVWR of the truck. I was with my first fifth wheel so I went to the 3500 in 2005 when the 3500 SRW came out. Keep the brakes in good working order - allot of weight behind your truck.

My 2005 3500 came with 265s and an extra spring on the rear - GVWR to 9900 lbs.

I finally traded to the 2011 for added GVWR - 11,600lbs. Still wanted a SRW instead of a dually.


2011 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ CCLB LML SRW 4X4 Blue Granite Metallic.
Towing a 2009 Montana Mountaineer 347THT Toy Hauler.
Previous DAs:
2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 LT CCLB LLY SRW LT 4X4 Silver Birch Metallic
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD SE ECLB LB7 4X4 Sand Beige Metallic

I have installed air bags on all of my trucks. helps the ride and keeps it level. I had a 2004 2500HD and put 265 tires on it - came with 245s.(265s have about 400lbs more load rating than 245s). - GVWR 9200 lbs. My 2004 weighted about 7000lbs with no fifth wheel hitch in it. So - you are probably above the GVWR of the truck. I was with my first fifth wheel so I went to the 3500 in 2005 when the 3500 SRW came out. Keep the brakes in good working order - allot of weight behind your truck.

My 2005 3500 came with 265s and an extra spring on the rear - GVWR to 9900 lbs.

I finally traded to the 2011 for added GVWR - 11,600lbs. Still wanted a SRW instead of a dually.


2011 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ CCLB LML SRW 4X4 Blue Granite Metallic.
Towing a 2009 Montana Mountaineer 347THT Toy Hauler.
Previous DAs:
2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 LT CCLB LLY SRW LT 4X4 Silver Birch Metallic
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD SE ECLB LB7 4X4 Sand Beige Metallic


Everyone here should just upgrade to a 2011 and not worry about being overweight anymore- no more weight police... ;)