This morning when I started my truck, it did something kinda strange. First, it just turned over without firing. I shut the key off, glowed it again and hit the starter. It fired immediately, but started revving eratically. It revved up and down a few times spewing smoke, then stalled. I tried restarting it about 3 times, each with the same result. So I shut it down and drove the 'Stang as I didn't have time to mess with it.

Now, this isn't the first time it's done this either. It did it a few weeks ago too. Last time though, I let it sit for a few minutes and it started and idled fine. When I tried to drive it however, it would start bucking on and off the throttle as soon as the pedal was pressed. I shut it off again, and let it sit for a few. This time it started and idled fine, and I was able to drive it out the driveway. Once on the road I could feel it surging though. It seemed worse with the A/C on. It got so bad at one point, that on the highway the truck went full throttle all by itself for a good few seconds. I could do nothing but hit the brakes. Then suddenly, it dropped to idle. No amount of pressing the accelerator could bring the revs up. As the truck slowed down, I pulled over to the shoulder and it stalled. I let it sit for a few minutes with the key off, started it, and drove home with no problems whatsoever.

My dad told me that it had done this to him once a year or so ago as well. (I recently inhertited this one from him when he bought a D-max...) He told me all he had done was change the fuel filter(thinking the computer was going wacky from low primary pressure??) and it hadn't done it since. So I got a new filter and changed it. It was getting to be about that time anyway. The truck had been running perfectly ever since, making me think the filter had cured it. The problem is it's doing it again now, and the filter has been in the truck for only about a month, and has maybe 2500km on it.

What gives?? Any one experience this before? Any ideas or speculations?
It's a bit of a nuiscance, and the full throttle on the highway thing kinda scared me a little...

Sounds like its time to get the IP rebuilt.

Before you spend any money test the lift pump and OPS for operation. It seems like low fuel supply to the IP.

I don't know if you have a chip or not, but I had a hypertech in my truck for about 2 weeks and it would do that and then throw an accelerator pedal related code. I removed the chip and it hasn't happened since(7 months and at least 10,000 miles).

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue go to FAQS and read up on tests to check that, also 1st step in TS any stumble problem is fuel filter change, even if "new" recent change crud happens any time.

I don't suspect it has a chip but if you do, Go with a Kennedy, Heath chip I've not heard of any code issues with either of those, anybody running a SS Diesel chip?? do you have code issues???

Another possibility is bad PMD, but you have a lot of other checks to do before condemning it or the IP. Check you need to do are also in FAQs

No chip. It's bone stock other than the K&N. Both the PMD and the injector pump are new within the past couple years.

Thanks for the tips. I'll read the FAQ's on this and do some trouble shooting.

So today I opened the hood and cracked the t-handle valve open by the thermostat. As soon as I turned the key to the "on" position, it started pouring fuel out.
I'm assuming this means my(new) filter is plugged?? I'll pick one up on Monday I guess. Does this mean I just got a tank of sh*t fuel? Should I drain my tank and refill it with new fuel or should I just run through what I have? If I've gotta dump it, that's about $50 worth...
One other thing...I thought the lift pump is powered by the OPS. Would this not require oil pressure to activate it? The pump came on in the "on" position, not while cranking. Is this alright?

Fuel should come out there with the key on. Lift pump is powered at key on till OPS takes over with engine running

Fuel should come out there with the key on. Lift pump is powered at key on till OPS takes over with engine running
OK good. Makes sense.

Any codes coming up at all?
Got a good fuel cap? - a venting one that doesn't allow a vacuum to form in the tank?

I don't know about dtc's. I don't have a scan tool for this truck. There is no check engine light though(at least not recently...)

Anyways, the new fuel filter seems to have fixed it. I just hope I'm not stuck with a tank full of crap fuel that's gonna plug 2 more filters before it's gone.

I'm considering plumbing a fuel filter ahead of the supply pump. Good idea? What kind of GPH will I need it to flow?

Check FAQs for pics of pre lift pump install.

Racor 445(45 gph) is plenty, I went with a 460 (60gph) though as I'm flowing more fuel than stock and I want minimal restriction to my flow, 460 is a little less restrictive to flow than a 445.

Any shop with a MT-2500 scanner or Matco scanner (common tool of many smaller shops); or dealer (if you can find one that will not try to rape you for a 1 minute scan) can access the deep history codes, parts stores generally can only view the ones that have set the MIL/SES lite.

I saw the pics in the faq's.
I was hoping to I could pic a universal type filter off the shelf for $15 or so, rather than spending big bucks on something like a Racor. Will something like this flow enough provided the line size is comparable to stock? Or is it not a good idea?

Check with WIX or Balwin filter sites, to see what they offer for spin on elements, in Nortern Hydraulics catalog is a hydraulic filter that could maybe take a fuel filter element, also check grainger or McMaster Carrs web sites for a generic filter assy. BTW my Wix filter replace ment element is same one used on Ford, so maybe a P stroke junkyard body could be an inexpensive way to go also.

Any codes coming up at all?
Got a good fuel cap? - a venting one that doesn't allow a vacuum to form in the tank?

Does diesel need a cap that allows a vacuum to be drawn (non-venter) since there is no evap charcoal canister? I thought that the vacuum fuel cap was a gasoline emissions thing...:confused:

Permacool (from summit) was pretty reasonable @ $38 with an element already attached to the mount and $12 for a replacement 10 micron element iirc.

You want to have no vacuum, (or should I say only a slight vacuum) in your tank. The slight vacuum to open the vent in the cap. If you have a large HUUUSHHing vacuum, need new cap.