I am looking to purchase the gauge package that kennedy sells, but what is the difference in the pillar mounts one is long and one is short is what it says but how long is long and short is short. I don't need anything fancy I just want to protect my truck. Also how does the boost gauge install.

I just installed one of the Long JK pillar mounts in my truck. it completly covers the existing OEM pillar. You will need to paint it to match the interior of your truck as they only come in black. Use a proper plastic prep before applying the color coat.


I had a piece of alum heli-arked to the intake tube (the tube that connects between the intake manifold and the intercooler... passenger side of motor)up near where it connects to the intake plenum. Then I tapped it to accept the brass compression fitting that came with the boost gauge. I did this because I wanted "post intercooler" pressures. If you tap into the waste gate, you are getting "pre intercooler" pressures. I really wanted to just tap the intake manifold itself as it is thick enough to accept a fitting, but the risk of getting the warranty voided because they might say some metal shavings got into the motor was not worth it. I just removed the transfer pipe (blue silicon couplings on both ends), had a piece of scrap alum welded to it, drilled it, tapped it, cleaned it all out and reinstalled. Beside's it looks better in my mind.Edited by: Searay90

Searay90,


Got any pics???


Good idea. I like it. Easy to document with pictures for warranty issues and your seeing the temp from all 8 cylinders with 1 probe.


Any down side to this location?


ON EDIT; PLEASE DISREGUARD THIS POST BECAUSE I’M AND IDIOT.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gifEdited by: WanaDmxsub

The long pillar completely covers the existing factory pillar,where as the short one only covers half. Basically just big enough for the gauges. IMO the short ones don't look right.

...........I had a piece of alum heli-arked to the intake tube (the tube that connects between the intake manifold and the intercooler... passenger side of motor)up near where it connects to the intake plenum. Then I tapped it to accept the brass compression fitting that came with the boost gauge. .......


It has been my understanding that aluminum/brass has galvanic activity when used together? Just a thot ~

ShumDit - No, brass and Alum do not have a problem existing together. It's mild steel and alum that have a problem in the presence of moisture


WanaDmxsub - I've got some pictures, but I need to figure out how to reduce the size of them (they are from my Canon Digital rebel @ 6MP each) before I can post them. I don't understand your comment about getting the reading from 8 cyls with one probe??? My EGT gauge probe is in the "Hoot" location, I only changed the location of the Boost probe.

ShumDit - No, brass and Alum do not have a problem existing together. It's mild steel and alum that have a problem in the presence of moisture


WanaDmxsub - I've got some pictures, but I need to figure out how to reduce the size of them (they are from my Canon Digital rebel @ 6MP each) before I can post them. I don't understand your comment about getting the reading from 8 cyls with one probe??? My EGT gauge probe is in the "Hoot" location, I only changed the location of the Boost probe.








If you have Windows XP use Microsoft Picture v7.0 it and use "save copy as" under FILE in the menu at the top . Best size under options is a size of 800x600 and reduce the size file KB's by using the ( JPEG Compression ) so that it can be uploaded easily.


Hope it helps you.





Thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifNYEdited by: GMC-2002-Dmax

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


Looks like reading comprehension isn't one of my stronger points.

This is what I found when I removed the inner fender liner....


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http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/331_IMG_0676.jpg Edited by: Searay90

Here is the Mod I did to the intake transfer tube. I then cleaned and flushed out the inside of the tube before reinstalling it.





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Here is the EGT probe installed in the "Hoot" positionhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif





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A-pillar with the cover removed. Second picture is the OEM pillar after removal. The metal clip at the top is the only "fastner" that holds it in place. Just pry the top of the A-pillar cover off a little bit and then pull it out a few inches. Then remove the two screws located behind the fuse cover. This will allow the dash cover to move just a small amount when you have to "pull & wiggle" the A-pillar out. Just remember that it is an interferance fit at the end near the bottom of the windshield.


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Pictures of the final installation of a full pod overlay A-pillar. I drilled two 1/2 inch holes in the OEM A-Pillar to route the electrical connections and the boost tubing thru to the gauge pod. I tried to use double sided tape to attach the overlay to the OEM, but it would not hold. So I drilled two 3/16" holes and put in two of the four "plastic nails" included with the pod overlay. Remember you have to paint everything to match your interior as it all comes in black.


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Here is where I mounted the ISSPRO electronics box using double sided tape. This location is the same place you plug your trailer brake wiring harness in.





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Here is my custom made connector for the switched "hot" lead to the ISSPRO EGT system. The next picture is where I found a "hot switched terminal" in the block under the black cover. For the backlighting on the gauges, I taped into the green wire on the back of the actual headlight switch.... The dash trim just pulls out, and then the headlight switch snaps out by pressing the 3 tabs holding it in. Detach the wiring harness, and solider the wire to the green wire (as least on 02 models)


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I routed the wires thru the fire wall using the emergency brake cable gromet. I did not want to mess up the large one used on the main wiring harness. I am going to go back and put some black RTV silicon on the cut area and also cover the EGT wires and boost sensor tubing with black wire armor so it looks OEM. Just didn't have any around when we finished both trucks around 11:00 PM http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif





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http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/7FD_IMG_0715.jpgAnd finally a picture of the intake transfer tube reinstalled with the boost fitting in place. Again I will go back and cover the blue wiring and boost tube with black wire armor for an OEM look.








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Searay,

Thanks for the detailed pictures and description. I have the same guages ready to go in to my '03, but while I am comfortable drilling into the exhaust manifold, I'm a complete klutz where electrical things are concerned. Your report helps a lot.

TC

I just wish I could have remembered to take pictures of more of the intermediate steps........ Just got too involved in the install on the two trucks and forgot about the camera http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Nice job ... Great reference point for the archives for searches ......





Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif

This is what I found when I removed the inner fender liner....





So, Searay, did you weld that cracked downpipe bracket or what?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

No, my MIG is not set up to weld stainless steel. I don't have the right gas for it. I'm going to let the dealer fix it when they replace the steering gear box, and hydro boost unit that are leaking pretty good right now............ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif


Here is a picture of what happens when you grab the input shaft and push lightly on it in the upward direction... It's not pretty.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/64D_stepfour.jpg