Just wondering how to get this done with the least amount of pain to my back? It all started with a sub par rebuild of my starter, cast nose cone acutally broke apart and some pieces lodged in the flexplate destorying three teeth. I lived with it long enough. No lift, just muscle and of tools..

You need to get you a HD tranny jack or else a good floor jack with some kind of cradle or do a balancing act on blocks. Then, I find it easier to split the T-case from Tranny, makes it so its not so heavy and bulky. After you got X-member and t-case outa your way then just do the Cooler lines,dipstick, dust cover, t-converter bolts, bellhousing bolts and any other cables or wires going to Tranny.

Once you have everything out its time to do yourself a favor and purchase Genuine Gm flexplate. Oh, check your rear main seal, now is the time to replace it if its leaking. But trust me on the flexplate. I havent had good luck with aftermarket flexplates. Then lock tight the bolts and torque them down to spec.

Then its time to reverse the order of removal. Dont forget to fill the t-case up with fresh ATF.

I am sure Ive left something out for this is a pretty vauge descripton.....I just felt like typing this morning......Good Luck.

Use new Chev flex plate bolts when you install the flex plate on the crankshaft. The new bolts have the lock-tite material applied to the bolts.

You will need to remove the oil pan to replace the rope seal with a Fel Pro neoprene seal (2 piece).

If you have access to or could rent a transmission jack, you can balance the whole assembly on the crossmember and save splitting the two. I have a Wudel floor trans jack rated at 500lb and use it all the time for this job. It handles a THM400/208 just fine. The SM465/203 is a little harder due to weight and length of adaptor. I just roll the assy back far enough to get a flex handle on the crank bolts. About 4" is all I need. I use a flywheel turning tool to hold the flex plate while tightening and loosening the bolts. I, too, use genuine GM flexplates.

Thanks guys, forgot to mention the GV OD! Never crossed my mind to use anything other then Gen GM and new pre locked bolts. Just trying to get motivated enough to crawl under her again!

Forget pulling it all the way out.
4 long bolts in the bottom bellhousing holes (6 inch or so)
and slide the whole thing back on the crossmember.
About a 2 hour job tops if you never doneit before.

Ditto to just sliding the whole assembly back. 4 inches of room is all you need.:grd: