whats the lightest anyone has gotten an 07 ccsb 4X4

I usually race right around 6450lbs. Less weight = free hp. :)

Removed:
tailgate
hitch
spare and winch
tonneau
step bars
2nd battery
rear seat
pass seat
jack/tools
floormats

I run 1/2 tank of fuel (diesel weighs ~7lbs/gallon).
I also pulled my overloads. They weigh quite a bit. Had to use Caltracs for traction, so they add some weight back in.
My truck also has spray-in bedliner, so that adds weight back in (~50lbs).
I weigh ~185lbs.

Also matters what wheel/tire combo you run. My PY0's and Toyos weight 52lbs a corner. Short of drag radials/slicks on wider lightweight wheels, thats the best I could find.

Some guys pull their tow hooks, remove their rear bumper, and even go so far as to take the console/carpet out. If you dont have the bedliner, you could probably get a CC/SB 4x4 down to around 6300lbs. But if you go that far, IMO you're better off building a drag truck and not using your DD any more.

I am just going to try this drag racing thing out this year to see what I can get , so I am not gonna go to far . Plus I have an aftermarket front bumper that weighs an extra 150lbs .

I usually race right around 6450lbs. Less weight = free hp. :)

Removed:
tailgate
hitch
spare and winch
tonneau
step bars
2nd battery
rear seat
pass seat
jack/tools
floormats

I run 1/2 tank of fuel (diesel weighs ~7lbs/gallon).
I also pulled my overloads. They weigh quite a bit. Had to use Caltracs for traction, so they add some weight back in.
My truck also has spray-in bedliner, so that adds weight back in (~50lbs).
I weigh ~185lbs.

Also matters what wheel/tire combo you run. My PY0's and Toyos weight 52lbs a corner. Short of drag radials/slicks on wider lightweight wheels, thats the best I could find.

Some guys pull their tow hooks, remove their rear bumper, and even go so far as to take the console/carpet out. If you dont have the bedliner, you could probably get a CC/SB 4x4 down to around 6300lbs. But if you go that far, IMO you're better off building a drag truck and not using your DD any more.

Wow that's light my truck is like 7200 as it sits that's a lot of weight to take out But I guess it could be done. That's awesome.

Wow that's light my truck is like 7200 as it sits that's a lot of weight to take out But I guess it could be done. That's awesome.
Thanks. Thats partly how you get a stock turbo CC/SB into the low 12s. ;) Well, that and a bit of insanity....
I found a weight ticket from 2009 and it showed 6980 with just the basics removed, full tank fuel, and my 285s on.
I figure my truck normally weighs ~7100, maybe 7200 in full street trim. Ive never weighed it in full-street trim or full-race trim to know for sure, though.
When I sledpulled, I usually put ~800lbs of sand in the bed to get close to 8000.

Thanks. Thats partly how you get a stock turbo CC/SB into the low 12s. ;) Well, that and a bit of insanity....
I found a weight ticket from 2009 and it showed 6980 with just the basics removed, full tank fuel, and my 285s on.
I figure my truck normally weighs ~7100, maybe 7200 in full street trim. Ive never weighed it in full-street trim or full-race trim to know for sure, though.
When I sledpulled, I usually put ~800lbs of sand in the bed to get close to 8000.

If I ever do a track day I'll have to use your advice thats probably a good half second+ that you're shaving off with that much weight. How long does it take to get the back seats out? My passenger seat probably weighs a ton with all the power stuff in it. If you too the time at the track you could prolly take the whole bed off. Lights and mirrors seem like unnecessary weight as well they weigh a decent amount.

I figure an hour to take everything off/out. Its time well spent if it maximizes the truck's potential, and minimizes the advantage that the RC and XC guys have.
I can do the back seat in about 10 minutes now. I split the halves first. The larger half is awkward to handle, but one person can do it.
Passenger seat is also about 10 minutes. Front bolts first, move seat all the way forward and do the rears and elec connection. I lift it and just pivot out the door. It weighs about 80lbs or so.
A cordless impact is a godsend.

I take everything but the tailgate, spare and pass seat out at home, so my prep time at the track is about 1/2 hour - 45min. Thats removing the parts, airing tires down, adjusting Tbars down, setting shocks, setting caltracs, getting EFI fired up and doing all my last-minute checks. Only time I do the rear seat at the track is if the kids come with me, and then they act as my pit crew and help keep prep time short.

Tom, that sounds very farmiliar. I did everything you mentioned last year but the hitch and second battery. When you remove the battery, I assume the passenger side one. What do you do to secure the cables? With the hitch and the battery, I'm probably going to lose close to another 100 lbs? This in addition to my new tires should put me in the high 7's in the 1\8th and hopefully I can get in the 12's when I get to a longer track.

Yes, passenger side battery. I used a couple zip-ties to hold the cables to the A/C line that runs right thru there. I just zip them loosely so the cables can still move, but tight enough to catch on the ends so the cables dont drop down out of sight.

i need to try and cut some of that weight... lol my last run i weighed in at 8480 lbs lol i left everything in including spare parts in bed and fuel cell/ aux tank lol doesnt help that my truck is a long bed lol

my 1/8 time was like 8.58 sec

I could probably get my beast down to the low 8's on 1/8 and low 13's on 1/4 with a lil bit of dieting lol

What you guys thing about doing all that thebac said, but on a dually taking the rear outside tires off? That would be another 150 lbs off a dually. I would think a light boosted 4wd launch would make up for it in my 60 ft times. The best 60 ft I ever got out of my 2wd was 2.0x.