Wow after about 3hrs searching/reading on this subject I havn't found quite what I'm looking for. Just brought home a 2011 CCLB last night with the itbc and have a gn with elctro hydraulic discs on it. My plan is to just make a plug in fooler for the back rv connector on the truck while the gn will be plugged into a bed mounted rv connector. So my question is has anyone tried just using resistors to achieve the load, or is there some reason it has to be brake magnets. Any one with better electronics knowledge recomend what size resistors I would need to do this. What I'm finding is I need around 6 ohms restiance to simulate the magnets.

Thanks, Jeff

How old is the trailer and what brand of brake actuator? The new actuators work fine with the ITBC and some of the older models have modules from the manufacture that can be added to make them work correctly. So before gerry rigging something with magnets or resistors I would check.

As to your answer about resistors instead of magnets question, them would be some big resistors as the magnets can draw 7 amps.

Where's you get the "6 ohms" misinformation? 3.6ohm or less is the requirement. If you're certain that the manufacturer of your trailer doesn't off an upgrade, somebody (me) "may" have a few magnets laying around. BTW, are you aware that the bedsides became Two inches higher from '07.5 and up, compared to '07 and older?

diesail
I havn't really checked the 2010 trailer yet but the local manufacturer warned that it would not work. I'll have to check on the brake maufacturer also. It does work fine on my fathers 2011 Ram with intgrated controller, but they don't appear to have the problem like the gm & ford.

heymccall
The 6 ohms came from a post on here, don't know what one as I looked through a lot of pages this morning. It said the magnets where 3 ohms each wired in parellel. Thanks for the info on the bed sides, I'll be fine on the gn but I may have to raise the camper because I usualy leave the fuel tank and cross bed toolbox in while towing.

Thanks, Jeff

For testing purposes I made a plug with an 1157 bulb hooked up to the brake wire (both filiments). The guy ended up running it for 2 years. I had forgot about until became back because it quit. One of the filaments burnt out, I changed the bulb and it's working again.

Thanks Max Power. That would be easy to do. I know I'm kinda putting the cart before the horse, but I want to be prepared. Not even getting the hitch in till the end of next week.

Got my brake controller fooler made today and it works, just have to plug the fooler in before the trailer for it to work.

http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/44620/2255629480085950553S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2255629480085950553jktDXH)

My Newmar fifth wheel, with disk brakes, has a Dextor brake system. Newmar was of no help but Dextor steered me to an adapter that allows the factory brake controller to work.