OK,

I am a super newb to the diesel world. I own a 97 LB,Crew Cab, 2WD, Dually TD (duh). This rig is super clean inside and out.. I love it.. Well except for the power. I strickly use it for towing my rockcrawler up the hills in Nor Cal. Anyway, the rig tows ok, but I get tired of only doing 55 with my foot to the floor getting an awesome 6MPG and blowing black smoke for miles, all the while my buddy in an 03 duramax just screams past me.

I have the tools, time and cash to do an engine swap. I am thinking about doing a duramax / allison / NV5600 (if possible) or ( hate to say this on a GM site ) cummins / NV5600 engine swap. I've also thought of just adding pane and nitrous to the 6.5 set-up and see how long it last and then convert, then I would have the pane and nitrous to add to the conversion. I don't know..


Anyway, anyone on this site done a late model 6.5TD to duramax converstion have any input that would be helpful to me?

Looking for tips/tricks, costs,wiring issues ect.ect. and any other useful info.

Thanks

Chopperman

Before you scrap the 6.5 set up, why not fix it first. It doesn't sound like it is running right. Do you have gauges? I guess not, if you are getting large amounts of black smoke and poor mileage, your boost numbers are probably very low and there is probably something wrong with your wastegate controller. Hook up a boost gauge and give it a drive. A propperly running 6.5 might not keep up with the Dmax, but it will hold it's own. I used to pull the sierra's grossed at 21,000 lbs with my 6.5 at 60+ and got 9+ mpg and that was in a 83 one ton flatbed with a 6 inch lift, 35's and towing a 34' selfcontained gooseneck trailer with my jeep on the back.

Well, I can't argue the fact that a Durabucks will be a wee bit stronger than the 6.5. Okay, a whole bunch stronger than a 6.5. But, a properly running 6.5 is a whole bunch stronger than a not-running right 6.5. Check out turbo issues (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368) too.

When I first got my bus, I was passed by a 47 seat MCI coach bus going up a 3% grade. I was screaming wide open. At that point, I knew that there were issues. Check out the FAQ's section. Click below in the signature line. There are a bunch of modifications you can do to your exsisting 6.5 to get the most out of it. They are not that bad of an engine if you it treat it right.

The biggest obsticle I would see is getting all the electronics to work. You'll have to strip out just about everything and start over. Ain't like the old days of pop an engine in place of the old one. It's like even the ashtray is computerized.

If you are looking for dragster material, the 6.5 ain't it. But a properly running one will be far better than a junky running one.

Chopper how much power do you think you need, if I can drag a backhoe you ought to be able to pull a rockcrawler.

Take a minute to visit the welcome note sticky & update your signature, then visit the FAQ sticky for more power tips. Cost of DMAX (while has way more power potential) is high to own & operate, worst case scenario blown engine on 6.5 fixed with all bells and whistles out there for upgrades is $8K, injector set alone for DMAX is 1/3 of that, for me it has been/is a matter of economics, while wanting the full plate DMAX offers, can't afford to pay for the meal. A properly modded 6.5 will give plenty of service and power.

Besides all that, I beleive that there are clearence issues with the dmax and cummins. I looked into these swaps myself.:o: With a 4x4 it was possible to get clearance with a solid axel conversion in the front and a body lift. I don't know if there is enough room with a 4x2 and a body lift alone. Check out my sig and follow my mods on the 6.5. Best bang for buck and hauling my full weight Chevelle on my 18 HEAVY car trailer I still can hold 70mph on 7% grade. Get that thing running right, oh and yes, NO2 will kill it...fast.

i think if you follow info posted in this area, you will have more truck than you expected. these members can save you time, most have found the weak points already and have very good advise. use money to upgrade rather than change eng/drivetrain.

i am still gearing up tp try this myself in my 77 blazer which has a 95 6.5 that replaced the 350 gasser 10 years ago . what i have found so far is you need to install all of the wiring and computers from the dmax . the new workhorse trucks have the dmax and allison with no intercooler and alot less wiring but less hp as well .what i am hopeing to do is use the p/u computers, an aftermarket i/c, and the workhorse wiring, a f350 dana60 front, diff gm corporation rear diff, 6" suspention lift 4" body lift 39"X14 1/2 tires

Hi guys,

I have toyed with this idea in some of my diesel dreams. :o:

However, I do agree with the team here. Fixing up and doing some performance and durability mods will be of advantage, and your vehicle will perform better and last longer.

Now, if you were really wanting a hobby or project, then by all means, go for it! However, assume that you'll either have to do all the wrenching yourself, or with a friendly independent shop, becuase the 'GM Certified' places will never look at it again.

That said, I started a thread on one of the other forums - it is linked here. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40096

Some good opinions there, plus some links to articles where people have done similar things.

Have fun.

Sincerely,

Rob :)

You could try an exhaust. The stock one is pathetic. Too many kinks in the stock down pipe. Don't run a muffler either. It sounds good IMO. I run a 3" d pipe, then eventually into a 4" str8 pipe all the way back.

Imagine the EGT's while running wide open up a hill pulling a trailer without a functional turbo, "blowing black smoke for miles". I wonder if there has already been damage to the engine. GET GUAGES!