Lost rear main seal. Is it easier to pull engine or drop 4x4 trans. Should i do anything else while i have it out. and is there any suguestions. I've never done this before.
Thanks!!!!!!

dropping trans is always easier than pulling the engine IMO. But, I am not sure how easy it is to drop a 6.2 pan and change the rear main in the truck.

Thats a tough call...4x4 so tranny, transfer case have to get out of the way, and you have to work around the front axle...I would be tempted just to pull the motor and inspect the bottom end while I was there...hopefully you won't find anything else!

Tranny and t-case are nothing compared to exhaust, fuel lines, throttle cable, power steering pump, etc.....

I do agree though that it might be worth it to inspect the bottom end.

Thanks guys anything else just tell me.
Thanks Again!!!!!!!!

Couple of questions first.

Which year model 6.2L do you have? The 82-91 model 6.2's had a 2 piece rear main seal that can be replaced by removing the oil pan. You won't have to remove the transmission, engine, or transfer case.

The 92+ engines, either 6.2L or 6.5L have a single piece rear main seal which you do have to pull the tranny to replace.

So which one is it?

just pull the pan in a 4x4. if it is the two piece style.
One piece, pull tranny/t-case. easier amd less hassle then engine.

Ditto to just dropping the pan, about a 4 hour project. Make sure to replace rope seal with neoprene seal. Rope seal is probably gone. Inspect your bearings while you have the pan off, if you see copper, it would be a good time to roll in a new set of inserts.;)

Its a 1986 4x4 3 speed. Will i have to check the clutch plate? Ive been getting different things with dropping pan and trans.????

Pull the engine. It gets too messy with oil dripping in your face while you are farten around down there. It is not that big of a deal to get that engine out. To lift that tranny up and align it, that is a pain, it is much easier to use an engine hoist to lower and lift an engine.

JUST PULL THE ENGINE.

Drain the oil and let it sit overnight, then pull the pan. Shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes to get it off. By letting it sit overnight most of the oil will be off of the bottom end. Rear main bearing cap and the oil pump has to be removed to replace the rear seal. Upper half rolls in with crank in place, lower half rolls into lower half of bearing cap. Just be sure to use a dab of sealant on the sealing surface of the casting.:grd:

I am not exactly sure what ur dealing with because mine has a 700r4, but the worst part of mine was the tranny cooler lines. Mine is a 1985 so its gotta be quite similar. Just raie 'er up get a few flex heads and pull the pan and oil pump. but if you do pull the tranny replace the whole clutch as a kits dont piss with piecin it together if you have it apart.

OLDBLUEDIESEL,

You have all the options that were mentioned From...

Removing the tranny/ x-fer case, but why? It won't help in getting access to the rear main seal, which is Under the rear main bearing cap.

You could pull the engine, but this is going to be a pain, and will cost you a minimum of 4 hours just to pull, not to mention re-install and doing the work.

Ok, here is what you should do, advice from someone who has done this exact procedure:

Remove just the Oil pan with the engine installed in the truck leaving the transmission alone.

You will have to remove a few things to get access like:

Starter and battery cable,
oil filter,
transmission oil cooler line brackets,
Front Driveline,
Transmission braces to engine mounts,
Oil Dipstick,
Pan,
Oil Pump,
Rear Main Bearing Cap,
Seal, etc.


Since this is a 4x4, you should have the clearance to remove the pan w/o lifting the engine off it's mounts. If not (I did a 2WD) use an engine hoist and support the engine, then remove the the two engine mount bolts (large ones) and jack the engine up only 1-2".

Follow procedure in repair manual on torque and where to apply sealant, etc. Of course, as usual, install in reverse order as removed.

OLDBLUEDIESEL: Send me a Private Message with your e-mail address and I will send you a list of detailed instructions on how to do the job. The list is for my 1886 Chev C30 with the 117 MM trans. (3 speed plus granny) and 2 X 4. You would ignore the steps on raising the engine since you can get the oil pan off on a 4X4. I used the Fel-Pro two piece neoprene seal to replace the factory rope seal.

Don't pull the engine and don't pull the trans. as you would still have to remove the oil pan to remove the rear main bearing cap!!!! Just removing the oil pan would save you a lot of work. You can check your bearings with Plasti-gage while your oil pan is off. Mine were half way between min & max so I didn't replace the bearings.

Ditto what chevydiesel and cougarjohn said! And Dave, too! Sorry Dave.