Are any of you using a cooling system filter?


What is the brand and part number you went with.


What are your thoughts on the product?


Have any of you switched to conventional green antifreeze?


Thanks...


Justin

I installed a Baldwin B5134 (http://community.webshots.com/album/91409363hjwmod) behind the grille on my 03.

http://thumb5.webshots.com/s/thumb4/1/31/35/91413135wIvsAX_th.jpg

a-bear's B5134 installation (http://community.webshots.com/album/90399999XnaENK) is in the Lone Eagle position.

ALso, I believe Greg (lubespecialist.com) offers a complete B5134 kit with a bracket for the Lone Eagle position.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Edited by: jbplock

jbplock,


Thanks for the information. How often are you changing these filters? Have you been cutting them open and finding alot of sediment? Thanks again...


Justin

I added one also. It fit right into the holes for the extra alt. My base is from a cat and I can't remeber right now what filter is in it. Easy hook up, maybe an hour.

jbplock,


... How often are you changing these filters? Have you been cutting them open and finding alot of sediment? Thanks again...


Justin
Justin,

I'm still on my first filter and plan to change both coolant and filter annually. I also did a complete flush with distilled water and refilled the system with fresh coolant before installing the filter. I wanted to get rid of any casting residue that might still be present in the block. Some folks have just added the filter with out flushing and then changed it after a shorter interval. If you choose this method check the filter often at first to see if stays hot. If it's cool it would indicate that it's plugged. Baldwin also makes a B5088 filter that's designed for a 150k mile extended interval but it's more expensive. The B5134's are designed for a "standard service interval" and are fairly inexpensive (approx $5-6). Since I prefer to do an annual coolant change (even with "longlife" DEXCOOL) I'll also change the filter at that time.

Also FYI … I used the following process for draining, refilling and purging the system of air per the Helms manual.

Before connecting the filter to the heater hoses the cooling system was flushed by draining the radiator, refilling with distilled water and purging air. This was repeated three times (it's probably faster to remove the plugs on the block) and after the third cycle 11 quarts of Dex-Cool were added followed by another air purge and topping off with coolant. Per the Helms manual the air is purged by cycling the engine to 3000 RPMs several times with the cap off and thermostats open (engine hot). At this point I closed the cap and took ride around the block and topped off one more time. Each time the engine is cycled to 3000 RPMs, the coolant level in the expansion tank drops, then rises as the RPMS fall. When all the air is purged the coolant level in the tank doesn't drop as the RPMs are cycled.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Bill,


Thanks for the great information!





Justin

Justin,

Your welcome.. Hope it helps... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

What is the purpose of coolant filtration?

Oil gets contaminants from combustion, engine wear, and intake air.

Fuel starts out dirty.

The cooling system is a closed system. Wouldn't it be cheap and better to just change out the coolant instead of replacing a filter? In the end you have a flushed fresh load of coolant with all new additives.

Hoot,

It's my understanding the Coolant filters are standard equipment on large diesel engines. So, since I want to be like all other big OTR's when I pull into a truck stop I installed a coolant filter on my truck too. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif

Seriously, since the cooling system is closed, any oxidation, rust, scale, etc can circulate and cause premature wear and/or plugging/restriction of coolant passages as well as limit heat transfer. The additive package is supposed to control these things but a filter can also enhance the process. Here are two related Filter TSB's

COOLANT FILTRATION - PRODUCTS AND COMPATIBILITY ( http://www.baldwinfilter.com/engineer/pdf/02-1.pdf)
"For over 50 years, the performance of heavy duty cooling systems has been
protected and enhanced by the use of coolant filtration and chemical additives."

Cooling System Maintenance for Heavy Duty Engines ( http://www.baldwinfilter.com/engineer/pdf/88-1r.pdf)

--------------
Coolant filters may be overkill for the Duramax ?? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Seems like it can't hurt… And besides I was having filter DT's after installing two fuel filters and bypass filter… Hmmm I wonder if can filter my brake fluid or power steering fluid…
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif

I'm sure it helps but I think I'll stick to changing the coolant at every head gasket swap.

Sounds like a plan!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif Edited by: jbplock

I installed a Baldwin B5134 (http://community.webshots.com/album/91409363hjwmod) behind the grille on my 03.

http://thumb5.webshots.com/s/thumb4/1/31/35/91413135wIvsAX_th.jpg

a-bear's B5134 installation (http://community.webshots.com/album/90399999XnaENK) is in the Lone Eagle position.

ALso, I believe Greg (lubespecialist.com) offers a complete B5134 kit with a bracket for the Lone Eagle position.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


Hey guys;


I just order one of these from Greg. I appreciate your postings and abear's photos!! I've learnd a lot off this forum.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Thanks,

Looking at how these filters are installed, what keep the antifreeze from just going around rather than through the filter? Why is the filter not plumbed in series with the heater core?

Bill -


I am planning on installing a hydraulic filter in the power steering circuit. In my experience, power steering pumps are particularly susceptible to dirt/wear. It would usually be a no-pass (value vs. cost + hastle) but since I am installing a Mile Marker hydraulic winch with a tie in to the PS system and quick disconnects, and since I will therefore be in there mucking with the PS plumbing anyway, its a given. Any thoughts?


Now, about that brake system...I hadn't thought of that. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif

Looking at how these filters are installed, what keep the antifreeze from just going around rather than through the filter? Why is the filter not plumbed in series with the heater core?
Armic,
Good question… This arrangement is similar to a bypass oil filter. The coolant will take the path of least resistance through the heater core which also sets up a pressure differential between input and output. Placing the filter in parallel (or across) the heater allows the pressure differential to draw fluid though the filter. And since the filter is much more restrictive to flow, the majority of coolant still goes through the heater. It’s been very cold here in upstate NY this winter and I have noticed no difference in heat output. The filter is also warm to the touch so I know it’s working. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif
.Bill - I am planning on installing a hydraulic filter in the power steering circuit. In my experience, power steering pumps are particularly susceptible to dirt/wear....


Freddyo,


WAY COOL!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif I haven’t thought much about how to do a PS Filter, but if you come up with a method, I’ll be hard pressed to resist following your lead… http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


When first researching oil bypass filters I found some real nice Donaldson Hydraulic Filters… (http://www.donaldson.com/en/ih/medium/index.html) They are even trade named “Duramax”. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif Maybe they would be a possibility. Anyone know the pressure range of our PS system ?


(Hmmm…. Now how can we do the brake fluid??? <SPAN style="mso-spacer

LMAO!! You guys are great! Nothing better than a little humor to show how we sometimes take things to the extreme. Carry on!----http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif--Phil

Looking at how these filters are installed, what keep the antifreeze from just going around rather than through the filter? Why is the filter not plumbed in series with the heater core?





Good catch!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Has anyone done a different install?

If anyone close to me would like to have a coolant filter I would be glad to install it free so I can get some pictures and such. Also I think I have way to get better flow through the filter.

Greg

If anyone close to me would like to have a coolant filter I would be glad to install it free so I can get some pictures and such. Also I think I have way to get better flow through the filter.

Greg


Cool!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif


Now I have to decide whither to drive to IN or wait for your pics.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Hmmm I think I will wait. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Appreciat your effort an look forward to your solution,


John

Greg or any one;


I installed the coolant filter you sent me on Sunday in the 'Lone Eagle' position. Works fine. Drove it to and from work Mon thru Wed 20 miles each direction. This am I started it up and left. Down the road the 'low coolant' light came on. I went home and checked the reservoir. A little low. Filled it. The light stayed on. I turned the truck off and the key back to the on position and pressed the pedal several time quickly to try to turn off the light. No go. I drove to work at 55 mph. Normal op temp. Filter and hoses all warm.


1) where is the low coolant sensor?


2) how do I reset the light?


3) could there be an 'air bubble' issue in th system causing this?


4) any ideas or recommendations?


Appreciate any help or advise. I intend to go home and do jbplock's purge process and see if this helps.


Thanks,Edited by: Deadeye

I can't tell you where the sensot is but I would it would be in the coolant tank. Thats where it is on the 6.5.





Greg

Coolant Tank last I checked ....


Adding fluid should exstinguish the light alot like a low washer fluid light .... http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif


I would fill to HOT or COLD proper level and let any air burp out ...


Mac

... intend to go home and do ... purge process and see if this helps.

Deadeye,

Most likely you just had a little air which the purge process should remove. Once the engine is warm the coolant level in the tank should not drop when the engine is revved up. If it does then there is still some air (per the Helms IIRC).

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif The light went off by itself after 20 miles and a shut down all day. When I left work late to go home it did not come back on. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I checked the filter mount when I got home and it was quite warm and the coolant started seeping out once the top plug was loosened up. Didn't take the plug out because I didn't want that suff all over the engine and garage floor!


Hope this is the end of the problem. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Just changed out my first filter, about 11k, cut it open and found it to be almost new. There is a few small pieces of gasket material but that was it. I feel that this filter setup is not needed on our trucks. I may take off, replace the heater hoses and go with the duel alts.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I think a cooling system filter is a bit of overkill for these. Do a good flush after break in and peiodically, keep things clean under the hood so you don't get dirt etc in the system if you ever have to add fluid and you should be just fine.

Oldman;


For some of us it isn't just a truck, its' hobby, toy, etc. . . http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif

Or, as my sig says on the motorcycle and snow machine forums, it's not just a hobby, it's an obsession!!

Just changed out my first filter, about 11k, cut it open and found it to be almost new. There is a few small pieces of gasket material but that was it. I feel that this filter setup is not needed on our trucks. I may take off, replace the heater hoses and go with the duel alts.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Greg is working on a different method of plumbing the hoses to insure better filtration. Anyone who has ever owned an older vehicle and has examined the inside of a radiator should have a different opinion than what you expressed.

.... Anyone who has ever owned an older vehicle and has examined the inside of a radiator should have a different opinion than what you expressed.


Depends on the regularity of system flushes/fluid changes.

Gee, a 100k change or run the risk of hoses letting go. If there is nothing to filter out you don't need the filter.

What is the purpose of coolant filtration?

Oil gets contaminants from combustion, engine wear, and intake air.

Fuel starts out dirty.

The cooling system is a closed system. Wouldn't it be cheap and better to just change out the coolant instead of replacing a filter? In the end you have a flushed fresh load of coolant with all new additives.


Hoot;


It's a lot easier to simply change the filter and add some more coolant. Anyone who has ever had a radiator repaired or replaced or has rebuilt an engine knows that rust, shavings, gasket material, etc is routinely found in coolant. The cost of the filter is about what it would cost for a dealer to flush your system. Given the cost of the truck and the value of the engine, why not a little insurance. Hell, it only took 2 hours to install this thing and most of that was fabing the bracket from angle iron!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I changed the Baldwin Coolant Filter on my Duramax today after a year and 16,450 miles and was surprised to find a fair amount of black scale and some rust colored residue inside. I first noticed the scale in the coolant that was drained when emptying the filter. Then I found some more inside along with the rusty residue – the case wasn’t rusty but there was some rusty looking sediment. I wasn’t really expecting to find anything but now I’m glad the filter is on there.
I posted Several Pictures (http://community.webshots.com/album/91409363hjwmod/1) of cut open filter and a sample of the scale that was in the coolant drained from the filter. (the red specs in some of the pics are from the saw I used to cut open the filter .. I need to buy a Tavia filter cutter)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Bill,


Thats just about what I had in my filter. Deep in the pleat bottoms I also had what appeared to be a small amt of dirt or sand.(Probably from casting) I'd rather not have these abrasives circulating around and wearing on the pump. If they are not removed they can cause cumulative wear effects as they circulate round and round many times w/o being removed. Some may consider it overkill and they may have a point but at the cost of these filters I consider it cheap insurance.

Tommy, Anyone,

Any idea where the black scale might be coming from? I'm glad it's being trapped by the filer but I'm curious about it's origin ??.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Thanks for the pics jbplock. I have been considering putting a similar system on my truck. Now I am definitely going to install one.

Thanks for the post, Bill. I am going to order a new filter and replace it ASAP.

I knew I could find the right answers here! I'm new to the site and new to the Duramax. I've had coolant filters on all my other trucks and I think it's just piece of mind. Just before I call Greg, again, and order one from him I have a question. Remember I'm new, be gentle. The coolant that I have in my truck is pink. I was told it was extended life coolant. I read the TSB jbplock put up and I wanted to know if the "pink" stuff is fully formulated coolant.

Jbplock have you ever looked under the nose of a Topkick or Kodiak? That's what I call a power steering filter.

Oh Greg, the wife said she doesnt' like you.):h Mods Mods Mods

Shadow,

GM designed the Duramax cooling system to use DEXCOOL (pink) long life coolant - no additional additives (SCA’s) are required. IIRC, some Ford 7.3 diesel models and OTR tractors require periodic additive replenishment to prevent cavitation damage of the cylinder walls. I’m not an expert on this subject but when I was considering adding a coolant filter I talked to the folks at Baldwin and they recommended their B5134 coolant filter, which doesn’t have a slow release additive. Baldwin also makes coolant filters, which do have the additive release feature, but Baldwin said these are not compatible with DEXCOOL. I think the reference in the TSB to “fully formulated coolant” is for coolants with the additives packs that can benefit from the filters with the slow release additive feature. Maybe someone else can help clarify this a little better.

Also, I have never been up close to a Kodiak or Duramax Top-Kick… Sounds like I need to track one down and get a look… :)

Bill, thanks for the info on the filter. Didn't know if I needed the pre charged filter or not. Guess Greg would have told me also. Went to the Symphony the other night with the wife. Was glad to wear that gold bow tie!

Shadow,

Here is a related thread - Diesel engine coolant? (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=37;t=000238) - I just saw over on the BITOG Forum (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php)


Also... just curious about the "Horse Hauler" in your Signature ... Do you own horses? My 17yr old daughter has a Horse - 14 yr old Appaloosa Gelding. We haven't had to haul it yet but that may be our future. She works at horse farm and takes care of 24 other horses (including her's).

:)

JB, Thanks for the site. I'm familiar with the cavitation problems. I had a coolant filter set up on my other truck that I made up with NAPA parts and was planning on putting the same set up on the Kodiak. Total cost was about $45. That was it. Brass T's, hose barbs, housing and pre-charged filter. It was copied by alot of other folks driving....those other trucks. Gregs set up is alot more appealing to me. (Looks Better) That's the second mod I plan on doing after the fuel filter set up is in place. As far as the horses are concerned, oh ya, their out here. Five of them and two mules. Well, one four legged and one two legged. I'm married to that one.):h

Any advice for this install. I have tried to follow along, but I just need all out instructions I guess. Any advice?

What is the micron size? Later! Frank

PS: My wife says the Lone Eagle position has nothing to do with the Duramax. ;)

I just looked a jpblock's pictures, and I can't tell anything from that. Maybe if I knew what I was looking at that would help.

I just want to do this -- I think it would be neat.