I need to get one of these ASAP. This is the one that is unscrewed when priming a new filter. Apparently it is plastic and mine is cracked (likely over torqued on the last filter change). I'd like to find one today so it can at least be overnighted. None of the dealers here have one in stock and can only promise one in 2-3 days.

John

Lubrication Specialist, a supporting vendor on this site, sells a fitting with a valve and a plastic tube to drain diesel fuel into wheelwell area and into a can. This unit replaces the bleeder screw and makes bleeding the filter a lot neater.

I believe it is a 10 X 1.5 metric thread. hopefully someone can chime in with a confirmation. I'd pull it and go to bolt store(not a lowes ect but a fastenall or the like that specializes in bolts and nuts) and get a match and that should get you back on the road. You probably need to rob the lil o ring also(or is that the source of your leak now?) That could get you back on the road

Then call lube specialist

Or if your in good with the dealer tell him you would appreciate if he robbed a truck on the lot.

I just had the same problem. I don't know the thread/bolt size, but I found a match in my "junk" and cut it down to 4 threads, exchanged the small washer, and it'll hold until I rec'v the new one. After calling the dealership, they found one on the computer about 60 miles away.:eek: ANY hardware store should be able to help you match up a temp replacement. Good luck.

CSM...see what I mean? You weren't the last....

I ordered four of the OEM vent plugs a couple of years ago for this very reason. You're changing your filter, and breaking or loosing the vent plug, and your SOL.

I ordered Racor 10mm Vent Plug, Part # RK 30818 for $3.65 ea.
I got mine from Diesel Injection Services, located in Lubbock, Amarillo, and Dallas TX. Phone 806-745-4122.

http://www.**********.com/main.shtml

They could probably mail you one sooner than I could get it to you.
To get by, the 10mm screw, (maybe with a plastic washer), should get you buy.

If you still need one, PM me with a phone number, or address, and I should be able to ship one out tomarrow afternoon.

If they're in Dallas, he could borrow a friends car and drive there.

Here's their Dallas address:

Diesel Injection Svc
(214) 357-2771
10460 Shady Trl # 3-102
Dallas, TX 75220

Thanks for all the advice!! I got the truck going again with a bolt and neoprene washer from my nut and bolt bin. I actually had a bolt exactly the right size. One of the local dealers is going to have the correct part for me tomorrow. I'm thinking I may order one of the valve and tube setups from the vendor that was mentioned above. That looks just a bit sturdier than the plastic plug.

BTW will diesel fuel eat through that neoprene washer? I've got some nylon washers I could try intead. The OEM washer got lost in the grass where my truck went down.

John

Go to http://www.parker.com/o-ring/fcg/fcg.asp , and select Diesel Oil in compatibility guide. Then read through table of recommended compounds. You can click on each material for more info.

Polychloroprene, also known by tradename “Neoprene” is OK. Others are better. If this is only a temporary fix until you get a replacement vent plug, it shouldn’t matter short term.

Search more on the internet, and you probably could read for weeks!

Also, install the bleeder with a nutdriver, (I believe 7/16"), and ONLY finger tight. I've had my original for almost four years, and probably six filter changes, and it's still looking good, (knock wood).
Personally, I'll stay with the OEM plastic bleeder. I would rather have to replace the $3.65 plastic bledder, than install a SS bleeder, and potentially cross-thread or strip the filter housing.
Talk around here says a new filter housing cost in the range of $512.

Unfortunately the dealer price was almost $14.00. I'll look around and pick up a couple of spares for a more reasonable price.

Also, install the bleeder with a nutdriver, (I believe 7/16"), and ONLY finger tight. I've had my original for almost four years, and probably six filter changes, and it's still looking good, (knock wood).
Personally, I'll stay with the OEM plastic bleeder. I would rather have to replace the $3.65 plastic bledder, than install a SS bleeder, and potentially cross-thread or strip the filter housing.
Talk around here says a new filter housing cost in the range of $512.