This was a few weeks ago when coming down Angeles Crest Highway.

This was taking after I pulled over and let her cool down a bit.

Havent got it this high since, although she stays at 200-210 during normal driving conditions (on the fwy doing 70 in 100+ heat, unloaded)



http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/9249/06250513023cm.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/8158/07220514525oh.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

How fast had you been going when it got this hot?

This is proving to be common with trans builds that use a heavy pump spring.

Our blue truck will not get that hot, but it uses just the Transgo/Suncoast III. On the white truck, it will get that hot, and it uses the heavy ATS pump spring.

I think all modded Allys need a larger cooler. The fact that we put more pressure into the trans will jack up heat. The '04.5s and '05s are real bad because Allison changed the converter flow valve. We are working on this project right now. Hope to have an answer soon.
mike

So this is why my stock Ally runs 230 when engine RPMs are high, i.e. redline, even though I was unloaded?

While I think that a cooler is definitely not a bad idea, I find that the Suncoast IV in my 05 runs really respectable temps. This is with ATS big spring and stock pan. I see a lot of 160-ish temps with 190°f coming only on very hot days under heavy load.

I looks like your navigater was asleep and not keeping an eye on the guages!!!

Thinking of adding cooler, something a little different though. Looking to drop the temps 30 to 45 degrees from normal (my normal is 195-210 unloaded cruising) and not interfere with the fluid flow from factory.

Using the search feture, I see MikeL has posted that the temp sensor is located in the valve body manifold. Thanks Mike.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the hottest trans fluid temp would be seen coming out of the outlet of the trans going to the factory cooler, correct?

Does anyone have temp readings for?

before cooler
after cooler
in pan

Thinking along the lines of cooling the fluid in the pan via an external cooler or cooling source. Mainly going to be using some spare parts I have laying around the garage.


I looks like your navigater was asleep and not keeping an eye on the guages!!!

So was the backup or co-navigator......:)

There is a solid 20* degree ish temp drop from the cooler. Thing is with the "bigger" cooler it means the temps also don't rise up as far.

I have been monitoring IC temp and sump for over a year.

* On Edit ,what transmission mods are you running?

There is a solid 20* degree ish temp drop from the cooler. Thing is with the "bigger" cooler it means the temps also don't rise up as far.

I have been monitoring IC temp and sump for over a year.

* On Edit ,what transmission mods are you running?

IIRC DTT Stage2 TTS Triple convertor

Two things.

First I am assuming you were in T/H mode for grade braking, and TC lockup.

Second, Mike L is in Inglewood. Go see him.

He does not have a TTS converter.

Elowe,

I think you may find that your converter could be a contributing factor in the temps that you see.

The converter brand is TCI..................

The converter brand is TCI..................

AWWWW CRAP!

I knew i should have searched for it.

Thanks Tys!

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28363


My Bad:)

do you think this is hothttp://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b82/socal-lly/100_1697.jpg

do you think this is hothttp://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b82/socal-lly/100_1697.jpg

WOW better change your fluid after that run.... :eek:

From my own observations, anyone running a built tranny with higher pressures will experience more heat in stop and go traffic than a stocker. On highway driving the difference is less. The higher % the convertor and more braking power it takes to keep the vehicle stopped also results in higher heat production. FWIW, A larger cooler, possibly a fan to help temps will go a long ways to keeping your built inve$tment happy.

What temps matter? Sump Temp? or line temp? My own opinion is line temp is the most important as it 'sees' the highest temperature of the fluid leaving the transmission. Sump temps are important too, but i think a pre cooler reading more accurately describes how hard the trans is working


Just thinking out loud.

Pre cooler temps tell you how hard the torque converter is working. The converter generates the heat ( in a sound transmission). The fluid is always hottest coming out of the converter as it goes into the cooler. You can't do much about generating that heat so you want to be concerned how you dissipate the heat. The sump temps ( fluid in the pan) tells you how much heat you got rid of through the cooler.
mike

So would it be beneficial to cool the fluid in the pan itself?

The first thought is to run a deep pan, with tubing inside (1 inlet, 1 outlet on the side of the pan), that runs water through the tubing. Using an old standard tube/fin trans cooler that I have, and small water pump to circulate and cool the water running through the tubes in the pan.

Second thought is to run fittings on the side of the pan and actually pull trans fluid out and run it through a water cooled container.

Worst case scenario, adding a second cooler inline with the factory unit, that would use water could also be done, but would require modifications to the factory trans lines.

In all applications, the water can be used at ambient temps or for hotter climates; the water itself can be cooled below ambient using some creative thinking.

Just some thoughts, may be crazy, but just thinking out loud.

Keep in mind the truck already has a water reservoir (windshield wiper fluid tank)

buy one of mikes cooler, its a start

Pre cooler temps tell you how hard the torque converter is working. The converter generates the heat ( in a sound transmission). The fluid is always hottest coming out of the converter as it goes into the cooler. You can't do much about generating that heat so you want to be concerned how you dissipate the heat. The sump temps ( fluid in the pan) tells you how much heat you got rid of through the cooler.
mike

2 Probes then? 1 Sump and one Line probe?

That would be best if you really want to know how much heat your putting in and how much you are taking out.

Found the water cooler that I will be using.
For more info on it, contact Curtis at Perf. Diesel Research.
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/4418/img40926om.th.jpg (http://img243.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img40926om.jpg)
Oh by the way, just joking about using this as the cooler for the trans.....

Eric
You should try one of my coolers before you get too exotic.
mike

Are you running the DTT in your truck now Elowe?

A 7000 Watt TEC or Pelt ought to be enough... although it's power consumption is staggering!

Mike, might end up there, just trying something a little less expensive (parts laying around the garage and my labor doesn't cost me anything but my time) before I go that route.

Slick, yes, been in there now for almost 2 months.

Juice, my thoughts exactly, have a few small ones laying around from my overclocking days, enough to cool a small amount of water. Water cool those and should be able to get the water down to below 50 degrees.
507.24 amps for a 7000watt unit wouldn't be all that bad, I got room in the bed for plenty of batteries and could use the weight back there! lol

Juice, my thoughts exactly, have a few small ones laying around from my overclocking days, enough to cool a small amount of water. Water cool those and should be able to get the water down to below 50 degrees.
507.24 amps for a 7000watt unit wouldn't be all that bad, I got room in the bed for plenty of batteries and could use the weight back there! lol

Elowe65

Another overclocker! Cool Beans! If the TEC works out i would be interested in hearing about how you went about it. I have been thinking about the other 2 -226W Pelts I have laying around, possibly a 12V Version of an Eheim or Magdrive or similar pump. At least we would not have to worry about condensation in this environment!

Well, we have already 'overclocked the factory ECM.... why not the tranny cooler too Eh?

This was a few weeks ago when coming down Angeles Crest Highway.

This was taking after I pulled over and let her cool down a bit.

Havent got it this high since, although she stays at 200-210 during normal driving conditions (on the fwy doing 70 in 100+ heat, unloaded)



http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/9249/06250513023cm.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/8158/07220514525oh.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

That's not that bad. Mine was hitting 265 three weeks ago. It's been in the tranny shop for two now.

How come the check engine light is on? Just curious?