Not a bad job, but a real pain in the a$$ when your leg is in a cast. Anyway, I replaced both rotors (old ones were *nasty* - rust,pitting,chunks missing), new pads, and after it was all back together, changed the rear diff fluid to Amsoil 80-90 Syn. The stuff that came out was dark and a little lumpy but no big solid particles (this was good news:) )

The best part is I HAVE AN EMERGENGY BRAKE AGAIN!!! WOO HOO - at least for a few months... I had to make a little tool to do the ebrake shoe adjustment since nothing in the standard arsenal of drum brake tools would fit into the passenger side hole seeing as it is at the top of the backplate on the passenger side :mad:. That's still a stupid set up in my opinion. I think the rotors would be a hell of a lot stronger and beefier if they weren't serving as a half-a$$ed drum brake at the same time. Someone at GM needs a good kick in the shin just to remind them of how lame that really is. :rant:

This is a great place - I've learned more about this vehicle in a month than I would have using any other source.

Thanks guys!!

how bad of a dent did it put in the wallet?

Wagner rotors from NAPA at 78.00 each (Nice quality), ceramic pads 58.00 for the set. My ebrake shoes had plenty of meat on them (they hadn't been doing anything for several months). 4 qts Amsoil 80-90 synthetic at 7.00 each. Sweat equity - 600.00. I have a small shop press which made pressing the studs in and out a lot easier however everything else was three times as hard with a leg cast on...:badidea:

Cleaned everything up with a wire brush and brake cleaner before reassembling - re-lubed the caliper "guide posts" and applied a thin coat of Permatex Disc Brake lube to the back of the pads. All in all getting out for 250.00 was pretty good in my opinion. Local shops had given me prices in the 560.00 to 650.00 range to do the same work.


Next month I do the front rotors and pads. Should be about the same cost again

pressing the studs?!?!

Aren't they two piece rear rotors, seperate from the hub assembly ?????

I was kinda wonderin' about that one myself.

:eek:

Oh yeah, they're two piece alright, but the stud goes through the backside of the rotor and into the hub, essentially attaching the two together into one big assembly. I was hoping they just slid over the hub and studs (that woulda saved me a *bunch* of time) but not the case...

I'll try to take some pix of the used rotors to show ya. Anyway, it is what it is.

must have been rusted togather pretty good, on a good day, they will slide right off..

must have been rusted togather pretty good, on a good day, they will slide right off..

No kidding....that should be a slide on affair..

Those rotors should be united (not wagner) at least they're made in the us though :)

Nope - not rusted together. The studs simply go through the back side of the rotor into the hub and they are straight knurled for about 1.25 inches where they make an interference fit into the hub. They *must* be pressed in and out. Check out the pix.

The first pic is of the front of the used rotor. You can bee the outline of the back of the hub (the only shiny area left :) ). The machining on the back side of the hub centers it in the front of the rotor. Then look at the second pic, you can see the outline of each of the stud heads - these go through the back of the rotor and press into the hub...

Dang, I never thought this post was gonna create debate... who woulda thunk???

http://www.dragsouth.com/rotorf.jpg

http://www.dragsouth.com/rotorb.jpg

Just relized we were talking dually.....

Those must be pressed.

Holy smoke! there's no way those ebrakes were doing anything! :eek:

I can assure you - the ebrakes were doing *nothing* :) Hell, look at the rest of the rotor, I'm not sure what happened to them... It's a wonder I was gettin the beast stopped at all - still had a fair amount of pad though they had really taken on a funky profile based on the shape of the rotor . I bought this truck used and the rest of it is pristine - even underneath - then you look at these you would swear they came off a truck sitting in a junkyard for 20 years. I did find out that it was a Vermont truck until March of this year. I would imagine salt played a part in their demise.

And you did all this with one leg in a cast? :clap: :clap: :thumb:

As for the debate...with these OEM brakes lasting quite a while, we're just now starting to see what trials and tribulations are involved in "brake jobs". Thanks for the posts and pics.

No problemo. I'll document anything I do to this truck with pix. After front brakes in a few weeks, I'm going to put a water/meth injection system in. I've had a nice system from Aquamist (or Aqua-something) for a few years just waiting for the right vehicle to put it on. Nice thing is my drag car (http://www.dragsouth.com/cam006.jpg)(she's workin on bein pretty over the next few months) is an alky ride so I have a decent supply around. :D

And yeah - I did it in a cast. It sucked

Your screen name makes more sence to me now........
That looks like a fun ride

So, given that this is a dually...
How the heck do you get the rear rotors OFF ?
I'm hearing "Hammer", I'm hearing "take the axle shaft out".
For an '03 DUALLIE, which is right ?

BTW, one rotor has disintegrated, the outer half has just worn away, the inner half has departed from the tophat - - UGLY !
The fronts are less than 1/3rd worn, this has been used almost exclusively ffor towing, I guess that load sensing thang and proportioning valve have been putting MOST of the braking responsibility on the rears ? (rhetorical).

1320in8,

Thanks for the info/pics on your rear brake job.

Looks like you've got a really fun "project" there!! Wanna run it against my 65 Chevelle? :joke: ):h

Dang, I never thought this post was gonna create debate... who woulda thunk???


Around here, everybody gets questioned. very seldom does it mean much, its one of those "inquisitive minds need to know' kinda things.

Thanks for the info and the pics. As we say where I come from "never holler whoa! to a horse race or on a side hill!!" mitch

HOLY CRAP!!!
:eek: :eek: :eek2: :eyecrazy:
I'm glad you were never behind me on the freeway when some idiot makes everyone slam on their brakes!!!!

HOLY CRAP!!!
:eek: :eek: :eek2: :eyecrazy:
I'm glad you were never behind me on the freeway when some idiot makes everyone slam on their brakes!!!!

The only "IDIOTS" in that case are the whole line of them who are following each other too close, the "everyone" that you call 'em (-:

Oh yeah, they're two piece alright, but the stud goes through the backside of the rotor and into the hub, essentially attaching the two together into one big assembly. I was hoping they just slid over the hub and studs (that woulda saved me a *bunch* of time) but not the case...

I'll try to take some pix of the used rotors to show ya. Anyway, it is what it is.I worked on a dually dump today you do have to press lugs out to R&R rotor full floating type rear end.

OK...I've been searching for info on changing the rear rotors and pads on my dually and I am digging this thread back up.

Is my '03 the same as this set-up? I inspect my brakes at every rotation and my last inspection says it's time. But the rotor and hub on my dually look to be a one piece part. Not a rotor pressed on to the hub. Am I just not looking at it right? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Eric...Help!!! :lol:

Jeff, the hub assembly has to be removed, then you drive out the studs with a small sledge. The hub and rotor will seperate. To reassemble, you'll need a press to push the studs back in.

Kewl! Can I just use a lug nut to pull the studs back through or will that damage the lug nut or stud?

We used to just pound them in with a BFH and a large punch back in the days I was wrenching. But I only did that kind of work for a couple of years before I went to work for Cat, so maybe I don't know my a$$ from a hole in the ground!:muahaha:

Last two sets I replaced required press, air hammer wouldnt touch it and I cant get nobody to hold the punch while I swing the sledge..

Last two sets I replaced required press, air hammer wouldnt touch it and I cant get nobody to hold the punch while I swing the sledge..

Well...so much for doing the job all by myself! Gonna have to pay someone to press them back together. Too bad you're not closer!

As for someone to hold the punch...I would just give Tom a call! He's so happy to be at your shop, I'm sure he'd hold it for ya!:lol:

Well...so much for doing the job all by myself! Gonna have to pay someone to press them back together. Too bad you're not closer!

As for someone to hold the punch...I would just give Tom a call! He's so happy to be at your shop, I'm sure he'd hold it for ya!:lol:

What are you implying, Jeffrey???? :lol: Dang smart aleck!

Eric's shop is only 2 1/2 hours from you......and almost all freeway. You can pick me up as you drive by.

I pity Eric......if you two guys showed up at his shop. :joke: ):h

(Hey Tom, have you noticed my sig yet???)

I pity Eric......if you two guys showed up at his shop. :joke: ):h

(Hey Tom, have you noticed my sig yet???)

Even teaming up, we would be no match for the abuse that Eric can dish out when he gets on a roll. Trust me on this......


Thanks for the shout-out, Steve!

Come on now Tom, I aint that bad am I?:idiot: :evillol:

Ok, now I need to bring this one back up.

I just did the front brakes on my dually, what a PITA. :mad: VERY rusty, would have been easier to remove the hub and throw it away, the two did not want to come apart...

I now will need to do the rears, I understand how it comes apart - the question I have is don't you need a special wrench to remove the bearing/hub nut?? :confused:

AHH come on, isn't anyone going to reply to this?? :)