Hey folks, I'm looking at a 96 2500 4x4 Auto, 6.5TD. The chassis has 200K on it, whilst the drivetrain has 20,000 on it (rebuilt motor, trans and new T-case) also new are the glowplugs, solenoid, IP and I would imagine the PMD.. (Relocate a couple days after buying the vehicle.)

The guy is only asking 5000 bucks and theres not a spot of rust on it (Odd for a 10 year old vehicle in Michigan) The thing that boggles me is that he said that the motor has a block for marine applications..I searched and searched but could NOT find any posts on here about a marine motor.

Is there supposed to be some sort of advantage to this? I've heard of mercruiser gasser marine motors, but never a difference in the 6.5 motors. I know that the top of the motor looks different, somehow than a lot of the pictures that I have seen on here of the motor compartment.

The good ol' boy that I'm buying it from bought it brand new and used it to pull his camper around the country, he lives in MI in the summer and TX in the winter. They also went on one large vacation every year, gooseneck hitch, 5th wheel plate, receiver hitch, brake controller, aux fuel tank, toolbox, CB and some UGLY running boards are included with the truck. He bought a new Dmax and no longer drives this one. The thing that has me worried is that the 5K price tag seems a little bit shallow.

Thanks, first post here, thus far it seems as this place could become a new stomping grounds if this truck comes into my possesion, you guys :ro)

Thanks for any input!

Hey folks, I'm looking at a 96 2500 4x4 Auto, 6.5TD. The chassis has 200K on it, whilst the drivetrain has 20,000 on it (rebuilt motor, trans and new T-case) also new are the glowplugs, solenoid, IP and I would imagine the PMD.. (Relocate a couple days after buying the vehicle.)

The thing that has me worried is that the 5K price tag seems a little bit shallow.



Welcome to the board.

It seems that the truck is in good shape - dose owner have any receipts for all the work.

That's really good price, owner spend that 20k ago on rebuild. If you let it go it won't be for sale for too long.

Well, the thing is.. it's not really 'for sale'

He's not advertising it or anything. It's a friend of my boss. he has receipts for everything, I am just curious about this 'marine motor'

I did a google search, the only thing that I found is a marine motor with 18:1 compression. Is this going to be the ticket for a higher HP motor or something?

How can I pull a compression test to find out?? Is there any way? I'm sort of new to small diesels and have just done regular matinence on big diesels (JD, Case, Newholand tractors and a couple kenworths at work)

PS thanks for the welcome!

were in michigan if you dont want it id like to take a look pm me if you decide against buying it

were in michigan if you dont want it id like to take a look pm me if you decide against buying it

Thanks for the help?? :rolleyes:

no problem good luck on the purchase sounds like a nice truck

Could be a Peninsular rebuild that is most common reference to "marine engine", see if you got a recipt in the pile from Peninsular, if so you got a real gem at $5K for whole truck, that is what that engine alone goes for. Marine engines are generally rated to 300 Hp flywheel, 18:1 compression & big turbo which looses on bottom end response, but has better top end once the bigger turbo starts working. Does it have a mechanical or electronic injection pump, a true 300 Hp Marine engine has a mechanical IP

Now THAT is the kinda response that I was waiting for. I will have to check it out again tommorow. I'm taking one of my diesel mechanic friends with me tommorow to check it out. I have only looked at it once, at dusk and drove it.

The upper part of the motor looked way different than the one we have at work.. the upper plentum I think it is called. There was no plastic cover. He said something about the new motor, it wouldn't fit back on or something like that? Is that some sort of indication or is this guy pulling my leg?

I'll keep ya updated. Thanks Turbine Doc!

I know he said he just paid 4700 dollars for the motor, slightly over a year ago.

One more thing is that, when I drove it.. it sure didn't feel like 300HP. I also couldn't hear the turbo very much but I am used to driving the 6.0 powerstroke around alot at work, that sucker whistles.

One more thing is that, when I drove it.. it sure didn't feel like 300HP. I also couldn't hear the turbo very much but I am used to driving the 6.0 powerstroke around alot at work, that sucker whistles.

The original GM-(x) turbo that came on these trucks had a wastegated turbo. They have excellent spooling up off idle, for general driving. If this is the super deluxe model (another make) here with 300 hp 18:1 engine, you may have an upgraded turbo.

To see if it's mechanical or electronic injection, check out the injection pump. Two things to look for. See if it has a PMD (black box on the side of it) or the nomenclature on the model number. DB2 - mechanical DS4- electronic. DB2's are very reliable. Take a look at the "gas pedal" see if there is a cable attached to it, or if it's a silver cylinder with a bunch of wires coming off of it.

If it's mechanical, I would be intrested to see to what type of tranny he put in this thing. I'm wondering if this is a "hybrid" of things or what? 94+ engines have all electronics on them.

Sounds like a lot of work to let go of.

Well, it's an electronic IP..He said it was a marine block, that had been rebuilt or something.. I'm not sure. It runs great, that's what I'm after. I'm not looking for big HP numbers, just a reliable light duty tow rig (pull the jeeps around) and to drive myself back and forth to college (200 miles one way)

I think this should fit the bill quite nicely. I'll post pics of it tommorow when I take delivery of it.

Well Jeep,

Even if it's a standard 6.5 rebuilt a few of us around here can show you how to get more grunt out of it, and still be safe. if you haven't done so yet hit up FAQs in sticky note thread or in KBKREBS sig link

I've read a lot of the posts in the FAQ thread. Like I said before, I'm not planning on toying with any upgrades much at all first. Firt plans are

A) Get rid of the ugly running boards
B) Get rid of the ugly stock steel wheels with a set of aluminum wheels
C) Straight pipe
D) K&N
E) Change all fluids/Filters so I KNOW they are new.
F) Relocate PMD
G) Gauges


Everything but the gauges will be happening tonight after I get off work if it is still light out. Gettin the truck in 2 hours from now. I'm pretty pumped.

It smokes a little bit, but I think that it could be that the old man said that he hadn't put fuel in it in almost a year. It's down to the bottom 1/8th of a tank, fill it up and throw some additives in it and that should most likely cure it. If not, Ill diagnose from there.

Thanks again!

Don't do the K&N. For the tiny little bit of extra power you get, it's not worth even a little bit of extra dirt in your engine compared to a paper filter. :badidea:

Lot of debate on the filter choices, my Banks Stinger kit came with a K&N, I also lurk over on Diesel page now & again, when I joined there in 2000 they had just finished a "shoot out " on filters, results were K&N was better than stock for flow & = to or better than some factory filters & Amzoil was better than the K&N, some new ones have cropped up since then that I have no personal experience with.

As far as whether or not K&N lets too much dirt by is one of those issues where a lot of opinion out there whether good or bad it would be interesting to see some oil samples with it installed, I took mine out of service before starting a sampling regimine.

I can say with my Amzoil air filter based on 4 lab oil samples with varying miles on the oil 3500, 6000, 7500, & 11,500 miles oil changed at 6K, 7.5K, 11.5k none of those oil samples said I had silica problems all deemed "safe for continued operation", now I also run bypass oil filtration (Amzoil bypass adapted to take Baldwin filters) which may be the discriminator, better oil filtering removing any silica, & mostly hi-way/city driving.

I do offroad some, as for K&N being bad, my opinion and it's just that; probably it has gotten a bad rap from folks that run it in applications it shouldn't be run in, if it were as bad as some say I think it would be pulled off the shelf en-masse, and companies like Banks with a name at stake would not supply them as part of any of their kits.

Each situation is different based on what you are doing with the truck, but I wouldn't wholesale discount the K&N, that said, I run the Amz as it did perform somewhat better in the test at the Page.

Flame suit is prepped as I know some wholly disagree with my opinion, just be civil guys/gals add your opinion, but if you can back up your reasons why you disagree with some documented experiences of your own, discussions not arguments is how we advance as Diesel enthusiasts.

I hear what you're saying TC. I used to use a K&N but my ***** is that after the study done that was posted here, I don't want even ONE dust particle going into my engine that I can filter out. I just don't run my truck wide open where I NEED every last horsepower. For some the tradeoff my be well worth it, just not in my individual case.

Well. The truck is now in my possesion.

I have thus far done: Oil change, ATF change, Straight pipe 3", Removed the stupid running boards, tried putting a MAP sensor on it, but they sent me the wrong one... :mad:

One I got it on the hoist.. i realized it needs: D/S wheel bearing (which was included with the truck, whole hub/rotor assembly.) Needs a tailshaft seal. I also found that the wastegate isn't opening.. I think that is what is causing the smoke, my diesel-mech friend told me off the get go that it may be the map sensor, but upon further inspection, we held the wastegate open and it calmed the smoke down a LOT.

Another thing is that I can't hear ANY turbo noise. None what so-ever. That sort of concerns me, but we'll work on it.

It sounds great! not to loud, not to quiet.

Drives excellent compared to my old daily driver.. 91 S-10.

Ended up finallizing the deal at 5200, paying 260 dollars at the DMV for Tax, registration, title blah blah blah.
I'm pretty happy.

Here it is. I don't know policy on posting images, so I will just link them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/hacksawcrazy/831bb857.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/hacksawcrazy/d7a077e4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/hacksawcrazy/81d82778.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/hacksawcrazy/36f8099e.jpg

Congrats, looks nice :)

Please, take some pics of the engine. I'm very curious what you've got there. Maybe you've actually got these 300HP once the wastegate is functional again ...

Go to FAQ's and look for turbo material (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368). Wastegate should be closed, not open - you may being doing it correctly, just referring to it backwards.

Jeep go to the welcome sticky now that you got her and follow instructions there how to update sig with what it came with & such, RPO code list in FAQ/glovebox will tell lot of what you don't know about it. as far as posting pics go to advanced , and manage atachments, then browse for location of pic, then when ready to post hit uplaod & if file isn't too big it will go direct into the thread. You can post up to 8 photos per post, they are size controlled you may have to shrink them up some. Truck & related pictures please, no nekkid wimin etc, we try to keep the site as close to G rated as we can, a little looser in the off topics threads PG-13 is about as far as we go there

Well it is looking better. I found out that my wastegate solenoid is in fact the at fault part..

Should I be testing power to the clips on the solenoid? I have no vaccum to the actuator, yet, vaccum at the solenoid. That leave 2 possibilities.. solenoid.. or something ammuck in the wires.

Just for S's and G's I clamped a clip on the wastegate actuator to hold it closed. (or whatever the way it should be at idle, the rod into the canister)

What a difference.. hardly any smoke, and ran GREAT compared to how it was running.

This makes me happy, off to the stealership tommorow to see if I can get the part..

Thanks for the help and compliments folks!

I would put my money on the solenoid, I've replace 3 and was on the 4th till I made a turbo master. Do a search on turbo master and you should find a how to build one. I'm playing around with my, but should have some pics soon. Nice truck and welcome!!!!

Get yer gauges before embarking on Turbo Master project. . . protect your new investment!

One quick question. I tried getting it from the pictures...


does the supply line (from the vac pump) go towards the front or rear of the wastegate solenoid? (in relation to the front/back of the truck)

I cannot tell, I think they may have been hooked up backwards, but I don't want to hook them up backwards if they were properly hooked up.

Should be a sticker under the hood probably on the rad support or air filter box with a diagram showing how they run.