I know very little about trailering. I know even less about trailers in general. So, I figured I'd ask you....

My wife's boss has a 1990 Jayco M-250 Special travel trailer. It's 25'x8', sleeps up to 6, has A/C, and all the normal amenities. It has a 2 year old 16 foot awning, brand new tires/bearings and brakes (2 axles). These people were non-smokers, and the interior is in excellent condition with the exception of the handle on the refrigerator (came off some years ago). The exterior is in very good condition, it has 30 gallon tanks (with new valves) but it blew a tire at one time and that wiped out the right wheel well and the plumbing. The plumbing was professionally fixed, but the wheel well was replaced by the owner. He did a decent job.


They are asking $4000 for it, including a Reese hitch. Thats right around NADA value, give or take a couple hundred. They still use this trailer, but want to upgrade to a 5'er.

Just wondering what you guys think. Is it worth my time? We have the money to buy it, and still are on schedule for the remodel next year.

Thanks in advance for any replies/opinions.

On a trailer that old I would really look at the roof.. I had an 11 year old trailer that was never stored under a cover and the roof went to pieces 2 years after I bought it... If it is a rubber or vinal roof you need to really inspect it... The replacement cost on the roof was over 8,000.00 for the 24' of roof...

I was told that because the roof was glued down they had to replace the wood panels before they would replace the rubber roof...

I never even though about having to replace the roof... :(

Good Luck

Steve

If you like the trailer, that is what will count the most.

Make sure you look for water leaks. Most trailers are built well enough that they will outlast you if taken care of. Water is a nasty enemy of a trailer and the seals around the openings are what will wear out.

Like Swatkins said, take a good look at the roof. As long as there is no water damage, you can put on a new EPDM rood for that size of trailer for less than $1200.00. It's about $750 for the materials and the rest would be labor. If you did it yourself, it's about $750.00 for the materials, $100.00 for beer and steaks for your friends to come over and help. Just find a good RV center that carries RV repair materials and pick there brain.

Also, check over at www.RVnet.com and see if any issues have ever shown up about that model of trailer.

Ditto what SWATKINS said...inspect that roof and not only the roof, but the seals on everything that sticks out of the roof. I too did not store my '01 5ver under cover and my roof went to hell in about 2 years. Not only that the covers on the roof that hide the A/C, vents, etc. were toast and when it starts leakin' inside, and it will, you ain't gonna like it period. If the roofs OK and you like it, and you're willin' to spend 4 grand I say go for it. RVin' is a ball and you meet a bunch of great people.
JP

Thanks for the replies, guys.

From what I understand, those older Jayco's had a one piece roof that overlapped the wall tops. In talking to the owner, he told me he has kept the vents/AC/roof edges sealed with a rubberized RV roof sealer. In fact, he just re-did it this spring. There is no evidence of water leakage into the interior (no stains on walls or ceiling), and the trailer did not have any sort of "musty" smell to it.

I guess we'll see if I join the ranks of the RV nation....

Thanks for the replies, guys.

From what I understand, those older Jayco's had a one piece roof that overlapped the wall tops. In talking to the owner, he told me he has kept the vents/AC/roof edges sealed with a rubberized RV roof sealer. In fact, he just re-did it this spring. There is no evidence of water leakage into the interior (no stains on walls or ceiling), and the trailer did not have any sort of "musty" smell to it.

I guess we'll see if I join the ranks of the RV nation....

Dude! You don't wanna hear that the roof is good, you wanna see that the roof is good. Have it checked out...I can not emphasize this enough.
JP

Remember to, that the appliances have about 15 years worth of use on them. Most RV refrigerators only last 10 or so years. Mine went out around 11 years. Like most have said, put your grubbys on and inspect it. See if they have had any water leaks, and if the wood is in good condition if they have. Roof is a big concern, not sure about the $8000 price tag, I redid my old trailer for under $500. If everything checks out, make sure you check the maintenance on the Wheel bearings and brakes since its a 1990, before you go out and pull it somewhere. But, one thing is for sure, you will love camping when you finally get out and do it. A nice RV takes the roughing it part out of the equation.

YOU need to look at the roof! Look for chalking, small cracks and bumps! I tell you when the roof starts to go it's a BIG problem...

The 8000.00 was the price I recieved from two dealers that repair these things... I could have done it for 1200.00 in materials but what a pain! I did not have anyplace that I could work on the RV under cover... IT rains all the time in Houston :( I would have to remove all the vents, AC and the plywood decking... I figured it would take me a week to replace everything.

I really thought about just gluing the new roof to the top of the old one... A dealer talked me out of that when he showed me a trailer that had just come in with half of its rubber roof flapping in the breeze... A one piece sheet good roof had better be glued down really well when you are going 85 MPH :D I could just see myself on vacation pulling a RV covered in blue tarps :)

The going rate for used RV's is around 3000.00 for one like you described... If the roofs ok I would go for it :) You can always sell it later and buy a bigger one if needed...

And what did I do with the leaky roof on my old one? I put 5 coats of Home Depot cool roof on it and sold it to a buddy that put it inside his lakeside garage... They are happy as hell and using it as a place to stay until they build their home there.


Good Luck

Steve

Yes...I have to get up on the roof and look at it. Its on my list of things to do, but since the present owner is USING IT right now, thats a bit tough. :lol: They'll be back next week.

As for wheel bearings and brakes, those were done at the beginning of this camping year. (Yes, I saw the receipts for it)

Danke for the replies, guys.

On a trailer that old I would really look at the roof.. I had an 11 year old trailer that was never stored under a cover and the roof went to pieces 2 years after I bought it... If it is a rubber or vinal roof you need to really inspect it... The replacement cost on the roof was over 8,000.00 for the 24' of roof...

I was told that because the roof was glued down they had to replace the wood panels before they would replace the rubber roof...

I never even though about having to replace the roof... :(

Good Luck

Steve

To be blunt, if you payed $8,000 for a new rubber roof you got ROYALLY SCREWED! By the way, I have some ocean front property in Arizona for sale...
):h

I bought a used 25' trailer for in '94 for $2500, I redid the flooring, upholstry and put in a new water heater which brought it up to about $3250. I used it for 10 years with good luck and sold it for $3000. Hope you have as good luck. I prefer using white GE Silicone II on well cleaned roof sems and vents. It's more expensive in calk gun tubes, but 10 years later is was still flexible and sealed when I sold it. I woudl only by an older trailer with an aluminum roof. Good luck

To be blunt, if you payed $8,000 for a new rubber roof you got ROYALLY SCREWED! By the way, I have some ocean front property in Arizona for sale...
):h

IF you will read the post, two above yours, you will see what I did...

I just LOOK dumb :D

go new, cheap rates, long terms, low payment. and everything is new and comes with some long warranties ie 10 yrs on roof and min 10 on subfloor

Well, after debating this for over a month, we went and bought the trailer. I wanted to say "Thanks!" to all that gave me advice about this trailer.

We ended up getting everything from the hitch to the bike rack. It has new tires, bearings, and brakes.

The awning is two years old.

It has no leaks whatsoever.

It does need some minor cosmetic things, but overall, its in good to excellent condition. The owner told me to call him for any info about it, and he offered to help me winterize it...

I realize its not that big a trailer, but my wife and kids are ecstatic, to say the least. My son already staked out his claim to the fold out bed in the front. I've never been a camping-person, so it'll take me a bit to get into it.

I have but one question, though. How do you set and use a trailer brake properly? B.B.T. came with a DrawTite Activator II, but I don't know the first thing about it.

Here's a couple pics....

Tom, Do yourself a favor and get a prodigy.

I don't usually plug things, but for set up and ease of use, a Prodigy will make you pulling experience very pleasent. Since you're new to the camping thing, I want you to relax while camping instead of stressing out trying to get where you're going.

They go for about $100.00 and they are inertial type electronic brake controllers. They also make a plug and play harness for our trucks for about $10.00.

Here's why I say to go with a Prodigy. I think the Activator II will require leveling prior to use. In addition if you go up a hill or down a hill, the Activator will not function as well due to being out of level. The prodigy is not prone to any of that gravity changes.

As far as set-up, What I do with the Prodigy, is to set it to hold the trailer at a dead stop without using the truck brakes in Drive. Technically, the Prodigy manual has you set the trailer braking high enough to lock the trailer brakes up will moving, then back of the power just a bit. You will learn how you like to set them up for your driving style.

Tom,

I run the Prodigy and Dave is Right On.

Enjoy the new bedroom.

Fox

I was able to print out the install instructions for the DrawTite....no leveling needed. It is a fully electronic unit. I know the Prodigy is a great unit, I've read all you guys braggin about them for a while now. :lol:
I guess I get to go out testing now...figure out how to operate this thing.

:muahaha: on the new bedroom. We all think alike, don't we? Roni kinda gave me that "look"...knowwhutimean? :lol:

Thanks for the input, guys!

Nice looking trailer Tom. I really like the color of your truck :)

Jim

On the activator II start with the reading about3.5 and the slide lever on the side about 60. You will get these readings with the trailer hooked up.

Bac, did your trailer come with a weight distributing hitch? This kind of hitch includes anti-sway bars and transfers some of the weight of the trailer across the frame of your truck. They will limit trailer sway while you're towing it.
Also, watch that air pressure in the tires. Keep them aired to the tire's spec. Low air pressure will heat up the tires and cause a blow-out.
Take some mini trips 1st, just to get used to how your trailer handles and follows the truck. A weekend at a local campground is a good way to gain all kinds of camping experience. Have fun!

Yes, it came with a Reese WDH w/anti-sway bars. Its a nice hitch. Easy to mount the bars. I used to help my Dad years ago with our trailer hitch setup...hard to believe the technology is still used today, 35 years later.

Thanks on the tire pressure advice. Yet another thing to add to the trip checklist....

I agree on the mini-trips. Don't know if we'll go anywhere this year, but planning a few weekenders next year....When I have time.