just wondering what kind of boost you guys are leaving at
and what rpms are you guys leaving off the line at
last time i left at 3psi and it wasnt even close to being enough
and i think i left at like 1800rpm's and it felt good but still to doggy
im hoping these tie rod sleeves and center link will help

With as much boost as your tires will hold(or you run outa hair on your sack). To help keep from breaking things have sleeves and find a way to control or limit axle wrap and thus wheel hop. Lower your rear tire pressure also. start at 6 psi or so and work up from there if it feels good. different converters stall way different and build boost way different so telling you rpm would be hard......

10-12 psi boosted launch will net a 1.75 or so 60/FT time with the right tire pressure. Even with 33's-12.50's.........:eek:

T:cool: NY

(or you run outa hair on your sack). To help keep from breaking things have sleeves and find a way to control or limit axle wrap and thus wheel hop.

i should have my sleeves and centerlink some time next week and i was planning on fabing up some clamps for the rear end today
and the hair on your sack thing is funny and trust me i aint scared to launch her outa the hole

one more question do you guys still lower the t-bars even with the sleeves and center link

one more question do you guys still lower the t-bars even with the sleeves and center link

I have just the sleeves so I lower my T bars.........

I am not sure with the centerlink if it is still necessary..........
.
.

lower the bars-the centerlink basicaly replaces the straps and gives more room to play on the street but you can still pop cvs with too much angle.

do i still need to take the bolts all the way out. last time i just took the t bar bolts and put them in my truck

You can take em out or leave em there, I take em out but thats just me.

Make some runs with the nose jacked up and with it dropped. See how you 60' better. I'd at least clamp the rear springs or run some taction bars ect. You want to controll axel wrap. If yoy launch a bit to hard without anything done back there it can get pretty viloent and thats hard on parts.

yeah 10-4 on the clamps just made me a set last weekend

Does anyone have pictures of the clamped rear springs setup?

Mark Huckstorf may have em on his site, I think he has some pics of his rig. I also think tomac has some on his site. There were also a few posted here somewere, you may find em in a search. Might be in the suspention of the drag racing section?

Does anyone have pictures of the clamped rear springs setup?

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33478&page=2&highlight=spring+clamps

How much do you gain if you lower the torsion bars.

Lowering the torsion bars is to done to relieve stress on the CV joints, etc. It's not done to save time per say ...done in order to keep CV's/front axles from exploding. I've seen CV joints explode and leave little pieces of shrapnel on the race track ...not a purty site.

Oh ok i will do that next time then I don't want that happening. I always thought it was for better times. Thanks Kevin

It's also done to relieve the stress on the tie rods and help prevent them from breaking. When you race in 4WD the front tires will tow in severely which places a lot of pressure on the tie rods. This is how the tie rods break most of the time. When you lower the torsion bars it makes your tires tow out ...so when you launch the tires still tow in but not as far. I see you have SD's tie rod sleeves so you probably already know about the tie rod issue. I have the sleeves as well but still lower the T-bars everytime I run at the track for the sake of the CV joints.

I have thought about getting a centerlink but I don't know what good it actually does it is kind of pricey. As I understand now it keeps cv joints from blowing up, is that right or does it serve other purposes. Cause I never heard of centerlinks breaking.

I've seen CV joints explode and leave little pieces of shrapnel on the race track ...not a purty site.

Or convenient:D

Or convenient:D

Hee hee, yes I was referring to your CV joints in the previous posts. Karl said you've done a little work to your front end since the explosion? :)

Just a bit of $tuff.

Is anyone running these clamps every day? I have pretty bad wheel hop in sticky snow, and sand, but dont want to go through the trouble of making a traction bar. I tow about 8 times a year, so I could take them off for that, but the rest of the time, I'd like to leave them on.

The ride will be really harsh if you leave them on all the time.

You may want to look at the Cal-tracs that Trippin from this site sells. You can find them here.-----> www.socaldiesel.com (http://www.socaldiesel.com) The good thing about them is that they are adjustable. So if you go to tow you can just adjust them accordingly.

With as much boost as your tires will hold(or you run outa hair on your sack). To help keep from breaking things have sleeves and find a way to control or limit axle wrap and thus wheel hop. Lower your rear tire pressure also. start at 6 psi or so and work up from there if it feels good. different converters stall way different and build boost way different so telling you rpm would be hard......
I have the So-Cal supertrucks Heim joints and Traction Bars. I also have a centerlink and double cardon driveshaft that goes w/ the CST 6" kit.
Unfortunately, I broke my front driveshaft and skrewed up some stuff on my trans. If I there wasn't guys like Wade and Mike L. I would be SOL. I will post more when I have enough $$$ for the front driveshaft.

Would limit straps keep the tie rods from breaking?