I checked out the air filter yesterday to make sure everything was in order after reading a previous thread about bad factory install. First of all the cover screws are excessively long and are wood type speed screw; not a machine screw with a steel nut insert. Not sure about the life expectancy of these but can't be good if you like to tap out debris on a regular basis as I do. Then after the screws you find that the air boot has to be unhooked from the housing to even tilt it up to get a look. I worked it out fighting the hoses and coolant tank that is in the way and removed the filter. I find that someone put a mat of pubic hair on the intake side of mine! Now to reinstall making sure the seal is good. First of all I find that the intake boot must be removed from the turbo inlet unles you have someone else helping and holding the boot out of the way. After removing the boot completely to install the cover you will find that seeing that the three tabs that fit in the slots on the engine end of the filter housing are impossible to see so you have to rely on feel (side to side rock up) to determine that all thre are seated properly; after that allow about two minutes to reinstall those stupid screws.
The filter itself does have good surface area but I'm not sure how good it will tap out with the hair installed. The intake boot seems under-sized in comparison to the LBZ's but must be ample considering the way the truck runs. Supply side of the inner-cooler loop seems undersized too but again the thing runs like hell so it must be ample.

Other first observances:
Trailer battery charge wire damn near impossible to get to considering that it's well taped to another wiring harness between the main fuse box and the fender.
Engine heater not installed but paid for and on the build order
Fifth wheel wiring provisions not installed but paid for and on the build order
Think the slots in the front end in front of the transmission cooler need some protection, I've had numerous birds wedged near through the 06' grill; I'm thinking 1/2" polished stainless steel wire mesh and should look good.
Hope I like the Aries 4" SS step bars I have ordered; I just didn't like the look of the 6" GM bars with the chopped off ends. Looks like all step bars are going to have to be body mount because of the urea take. I would rather have a frame mount.
DIC needs to be on the steering wheel like the 06
Dealer evidently let the urea tank burp when filling it and didn't clean it up. There were splatters all over everthing in that area and very hard to clean up after it had dried. It was much like globs of dried auto polish but a bit oily and gritty like rubbing compound. I can't believe that is injected into the exhaust system and doesn't clog everything up.

Positives:
Love the over all look of the truck, just the right amount of crome and finish out is very nice.
Interior is excellant in looks and feel, ours Dark Casmire/Light Casmire I think goes really well with the Red color.
Seats are the best I have ever been in
Power is thus far amazing (haven't towed yet) seems to be much stronger than the LBZ even with the Kennedy tune.
If the DIC isn't way off the fuel mileage is going to be phenominal
Ride is way way better than the 06'
Handing way better also, curves very precise with in my opinion no over or under steer, and the way it holds a line on the straights is a joy.
Blue Tooth is absolutely perfect and I think something that once you have it you will never be with-out.
Enough gizmos and gadgets if you take the time to figure out all that the world book of manuels contains

By far the best truck ever but room for improvement.

Randy

Now I'll have to look for my 5th wheel wiring provisions. My block heater is installed.

If he means the block heater than he is just high and can't find the cord. Every Duramax has one. It's not even an option not to.

If he means the block heater than he is just high and can't find the cord. Every Duramax has one. It's not even an option not to.

That's quite a productive response, pony boy.

I found loosening the intake boot made life much easier when dealing with the air filter cover. But, to say an aftermarket CAI will be in mine is an understatement!

The block heater is an option now. Pretty sure it has been since 07.5.

It's on the build sheet but IIRC it is standard with the Duramax. Kinda like the Allision being and option on the build sheet but if you have the Duramax it is standard.

That's quite a productive response, pony boy.

Yepp I aim to clear things up so there is no confusion! :)

If you have a block heater you should find it zapped strapped underneath the passenger side battery. The 5th wheel wiring is zapped strapped to top of frame on drivers side, you can see it if you look down between the cab and the box. I don't know why when you order the camper/5th wheel wiring harness that GM has to be so cheap as to not put an outlet on the end and install it in the box. Kind of thought that's what I was paying for.

And the wire for charging the trailer battery is actually taped up under the master cylinder. The one between the fuse box and the fender is to power an aftermarket brake controller...

"I don't know why when you order the camper/5th wheel wiring harness that GM has to be so cheap as to not put an outlet on the end and install it in the box. Kind of thought that's what I was paying for." Me too, any advice on how to change this for the better?

"I don't know why when you order the camper/5th wheel wiring harness that GM has to be so cheap as to not put an outlet on the end and install it in the box. Kind of thought that's what I was paying for." Me too, any advice on how to change this for the better?

Well I think it is because there is no standard place to mount the outlet. I have seen them in the back of the bed, the front, and everywhere in between. Blunt cut just gives you some flexibility I suppose...It is only a $35 option - you're lucky you are getting as much as you are for that - If GM put an outlet in the box it would probably cost 5 times that much!

Neither Dodge nor Ford mount an outlet with their provision either. Just the way it is.

So the 5th wheel provision is a blunt cut set of wires? Do you know where they are tied up under there? I did some looking but did not see them right off hand...

So the 5th wheel provision is a blunt cut set of wires? Do you know where they are tied up under there? I did some looking but did not see them right off hand...

Look above the frame rail, driver's side, about where the cab and box meet. Should be tied up to the main harness going to the back of the truck and stuffed up under the cab floor.

Thanks guys. I had felt around looking for the harness at the top of the frame but didn't feel it, was beginning to think that it might be under the fuel tank shield if it was there at all. Pretty limited viewing from under there, I'll look again tonight. The engine heater cord, you say, is under the battery; will look again tonight.

And the wire for charging the trailer battery is actually taped up under the master cylinder. The one between the fuse box and the fender is to power an aftermarket brake controller...

Believe you're right; the charge wire was hooked up from the factory or there's one on the passenger side post anyway; I'll take another look this evening when I look again for the fifth wheel wiring.

Look above the frame rail, driver's side, about where the cab and box meet. Should be tied up to the main harness going to the back of the truck and stuffed up under the cab floor.

X2.....That's exactly where mine was. I mounted my connector inside the bed next to the tail gate, just barely enough cable length to make the connection.

X2.....That's exactly where mine was. I mounted my connector inside the bed next to the tail gate, just barely enough cable length to make the connection.

BTW, the cable for the 5th wheel connector is enclosed in tape. I ran mine through plastic loom tubing to protect it from chaffing or being pinched.

Mine ain't there, anybody know the rpo so I can check the glovebox build list.

Mine ain't there, anybody know the rpo so I can check the glovebox build list.

UY2

Block heater plug http://www.kennedydiesel.com/dmaxblockheater.html from here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395896&highlight=block+heater+plug

Trailer charge here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3902863&postcount=12 and you'll need to purchase an M6x1.0 nut.

5Th wheel wiring here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3023917&postcount=4 and open the first link and go to page 8.

And one place to put it http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3789262&postcount=8

And, if you don't have a UY2 option listed in the glove box, go here http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle_wiring_kits/5th_wheel_harnesses/gm/chev_gmc_2500_3500_pickups_2000-08_5th_wheel.html


As for the DIC, where would you put the buttons on the wheel (if you have cruise and radio controls already on there)?

The 06, DIC controls were on the wheel with the cruise on the blinker; I just like that better, to me handier.
Thanks for the good links

The dealership took a fifth wheel harness off another new truck and let me have it; quite a bit of labor for the mechanics because of the routing and many hard to get to attachments, about 40minutes work for the two of them. I have installed and now have power for the fifth wheel which we will tow for the first time this week end. I asked for some compensation from the dealership for the extra work and inconveinance to me; the reply was that even though they had mistakenly omitted it on the order, they provided a harness and we were even. Guess that's one way to look at it but hardly the best of customer relations in my opinion.
I still have not figured out (checked out) to see if I have battery charge power to the trailer as there is NOT a wire to hook up to the fuse box stud located at the master cylinder. I am in hope that it is one of the wires that have been installed to the studs from the factory, both red with black tracers. Will check tomorrow---when I hooked up the seven pin connector the Black wire was not hot; back at the fuse box the passenger side stud was hot and the drivers side dead. It may be that the driver side is only hot with the ignition on and the the seven pin will be hot; didn't think of that when I wired it up but makes sense I hope.
On another note
Installation of the Superglide fifth wheel hitch mounting brackets is a bit tough for one person but when complete is one of the best set of mounts that I have ever seen; rock solid and spot on.
Randy

Yanking the whole harness, on two trucks, nonetheless. Boy, and I thought I was stupid. $40 and removable if damaged, etc. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle_wiring_kits/5th_wheel_harnesses/gm/chev_gmc_2500_3500_pickups_2000-08_5th_wheel.html

As for the power to "trailer charge", perhaps this'll learn ya http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=62664&d=1207291268 Pretty pictures and all:rolleyes:

Yanking the whole harness, on two trucks, nonetheless. Boy, and I thought I was stupid. $40 and removable if damaged, etc. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle_wiring_kits/5th_wheel_harnesses/gm/chev_gmc_2500_3500_pickups_2000-08_5th_wheel.html

As for the power to "trailer charge", perhaps this'll learn ya http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=62664&d=1207291268 Pretty pictures and all:rolleyes:

No, they did not yank the harness on both trucks. The fifth wheel harness option is wiring that tees into the bumper seven wire hook up and is then routed to a position between the cab and the bed. They did not remove/rewire anything on my truck just took the added fifth wheel harness off of another new truck and gave it to me. They will have to order a new harness to replace the one removed from the new truck so that the RPO is as the build for that truck.

Your link is for an 08' truck which at that time the charge wire was still something that you had to hook up, located under the master cylinder. It seems ,I'll verfy tomorrow, that on the 2011's the battery charge curcuit is already attached at the factory to the driver side stud which is an ignition activated point. Others already having faced this could chime in to verify. No 2011's in 2500HD with the diesel configuration seem to have an unhooked charge curcuit wire; other models do infact have the wire under the master cylinder that is to be connected for the charge curcuit to be functional.

BTW
Back on topic; the air filter set up on the 2011 is as poor as I have ever seen in regards to serviceability.

No, they did not yank the harness on both trucks. The fifth wheel harness option is wiring that tees into the bumper seven wire hook up and is then routed to a position between the cab and the bed. They did not remove/rewire anything on my truck just took the added fifth wheel harness off of another new truck and gave it to me. They will have to order a new harness to replace the one removed from the new truck so that the RPO is as the build for that truck.

Your link is for an 08' truck which at that time the charge wire was still something that you had to hook up, located under the master cylinder. It seems ,I'll verfy tomorrow, that on the 2011's the battery charge curcuit is already attached at the factory to the driver side stud which is an ignition activated point. Others already having faced this could chime in to verify. No 2011's in 2500HD with the diesel configuration seem to have an unhooked charge curcuit wire; other models do infact have the wire under the master cylinder that is to be connected for the charge curcuit to be functional.


The 5th wheel harness that is on my '07.5s, '08s, '09s, and '10, are all integral to the wiring of the truck, as there is a factory splice of all 8 wires, right under the front corner of the bed. What you've got is what I proposed, a "Y" adapter.

As for the charge wire, this link actually has a pic with the fuse Circled http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=62664&d=1207291268 Does your fuse panel look similar? Is your green 40 amp fuse installed?

The 5th wheel harness that is on my '07.5s, '08s, '09s, and '10, are all integral to the wiring of the truck, as there is a factory splice of all 8 wires, right under the front corner of the bed. What you've got is what I proposed, a "Y" adapter.

As for the charge wire, this link actually has a pic with the fuse Circled http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=62664&d=1207291268 Does your fuse panel look similar? Is your green 40 amp fuse installed?

Yes it is a "Y" type harness; you unplug the connector at the bumper 7 wire plug, plug in one end of the harness to the 7wire plug then the other to the existing harness coil up the excess and run the pig tail to the fifth wheel mounting site.

Your link shows exactly the same fuse box as mine except the charge wire is already hooked up on the 2011 diesels and the 40amp fuse is installed.

OK YOU ARE PROBABLY NOT GOING TO BELIEVE THIS BUT IT'S TRUE
I said that there was no power to the stud and that I would check today because I though that the ignition might need to be on for the stud to be hot.
I turned on the ignition and the stud was still dead (head scratch), so I pulled the fuse and sure enough there was power.
A BAD FUSE FROM THE FACTORY give me a break!!!
Checked for a short in the circuit and it was fine so just a defective fuse.

A BAD FUSE FROM THE FACTORY give me a break!!!
Checked for a short in the circuit and it was fine so just a defective fuse.
No.....A bad fuse from your installer grounding out that wire:rolleyes: during routing and plug installation.

No.....A bad fuse from your installer grounding out that wire:rolleyes: during routing and plug installation.

No; I did the installation and I most certainly didn't leave the ignition on when I installed the plug (BTW 40amps will spark pretty good when touched to ground). Circuit was dead long before installation started, I had already checked and that was part of the premise of the original post, getting battery power for the 7 wire, as I could not find one to hook up.

Pulled the cover on the fuse and it was obviously a manufacturing defect in the pole soldering process.

3 world's fairs, 2 horse ropin's, and a goat ****ing, and I can say that I have never seen that.


I know that I probably came off as argumentative, but hopefully the info helped you to begin to enjoy you're new purchase;)


And, the charge wire was definitely not hooked up on the Dmax '11 I just popped the hood on here at the local Chebby dealer, so I'm gonna stick with "someone installed it and popped the fuse":rolleyes:

Are you sure that the "trlr chg" wire isn't B+ (constant)? The one's here are, but I didn't have my test light handy at the dealer.


Found this in the owner's manual
. Red: Battery Feed*
. Dark Blue: Trailer Brake*
*The fuses for these two circuits
are installed in the underhood
electrical center, but the wires are
not connected. They should be
connected by your dealer or a
qualified service center. The fuse
and wire for the ITBC is factory
installed and connected if the
vehicle is equipped with an ITBC.
The fuse for the battery feed is
not required if the vehicle has an
auxiliary battery. If the vehicle does
not have an auxiliary battery, have
your dealer or authorized service
center install the required fuse.
If charging a remote (non-vehicle)
battery, press the Tow/Haul Mode
button, if equipped, located at the
end of the shift lever. This will
boost the vehicle system voltage
and properly charge the battery.
If the trailer is too light for Tow/Haul
Mode, or the vehicle is not equipped
with Tow/Haul, turn on the
headlamps as a second way to
boost the vehicle system and
charge the battery.

Right from page 408 (PDF#) here http://www.chevrolet.com/assets/pdf/owners/manuals/2011/2011_Silverado_Owner_Manual.pdf

So maybe the post isn't constant any more?

I like the new air filter. Easy to remove as it has only two screw with bottom line up tabs.I have had mine off numerous times and it takes 1 minute to do it. If it irritates you that much, pay 90.00 bucks an hour and have someone else do it.

I like the new air filter. Easy to remove as it has only two screw with bottom line up tabs.I have had mine off numerous times and it takes 1 minute to do it. If it irritates you that much, pay 90.00 bucks an hour and have someone else do it.
And why are we removing the air cleaner that many times?

And why are we removing the air cleaner that many times?

To see how long it takes.:p:

3 world's fairs, 2 horse ropin's, and a goat ****ing, and I can say that I have never seen that.


I know that I probably came off as argumentative, but hopefully the info helped you to begin to enjoy you're new purchase;)


And, the charge wire was definitely not hooked up on the Dmax '11 I just popped the hood on here at the local Chebby dealer, so I'm gonna stick with "someone installed it and popped the fuse":rolleyes:

Are you sure that the "trlr chg" wire isn't B+ (constant)? The one's here are, but I didn't have my test light handy at the dealer.


Found this in the owner's manual


Right from page 408 (PDF#) here http://www.chevrolet.com/assets/pdf/owners/manuals/2011/2011_Silverado_Owner_Manual.pdf

So maybe the post isn't constant any more?

Mine was hooked up and so was the one that they took the fifth wheel harness off of; and I do have charged power to the top left pole of the fifth wheel plug in. Could be a Texas thing. And yes that is what it says in the manual, but not so; both red wires with black tracers were hooked up.

I don't think ther new air filter is hard to remove, it's just when I took mine out to replace my headlight bulbs I found the filter pushed down/ caved in and bent on the lower side. It was obvious that air could easily come around it. There was enough room to put two fingers by it.The newer filter seems a little flimsy, so care must be taken when replacing it. Just make sure the new filter is seated evenly in the bottom half before mating the top and bottom air box.
I don't think it's a bad design, but it could have a better lip on the bottom box to support the filter better. It's too bad the round factory filters were replaced by the new style, but space under the hood is most likely the reason they did change.
I'm sure it flows a sufficent amount of air based on how the truck performs.
Someone in one of the factories just didn't put mine together correctly, and the label on my air box, say's made in Mexico.

I like the new air filter. Easy to remove as it has only two screw with bottom line up tabs.I have had mine off numerous times and it takes 1 minute to do it. If it irritates you that much, pay 90.00 bucks an hour and have someone else do it.

Didn't say it was hard to remove other than that GM is now using the long wood screws threaded into the plastic rather than spending the extra 20 cents and having machine threaded inserts in the filter housing. I do question the longivity of that. The reinstall is what I have a problem with; for two reasons as I stated; tabs are not visible so you have to rely on feel to assertain proper engagement and second are you saying that you can reinstall the cover without removeing the boot entirely- - -if you can you must have three hands or someone else holding the boot out of the way.

Didn't say it was hard to remove other than that GM is now using the long wood screws threaded into the plastic rather than spending the extra 20 cents and having machine threaded inserts in the filter housing. I do question the longivity of that. The reinstall is what I have a problem with; for two reasons as I stated; tabs are not visible so you have to rely on feel to assertain proper engagement and second are you saying that you can reinstall the cover without removeing the boot entirely- - -if you can you must have three hands or someone else holding the boot out of the way.

Probably better than the '06s, where the element can fit under the lid WITHOUT being seated:rolleyes:.

Didn't say it was hard to remove other than that GM is now using the long wood screws threaded into the plastic rather than spending the extra 20 cents and having machine threaded inserts in the filter housing. I do question the longivity of that. The reinstall is what I have a problem with; for two reasons as I stated; tabs are not visible so you have to rely on feel to assertain proper engagement and second are you saying that you can reinstall the cover without removeing the boot entirely- - -if you can you must have three hands or someone else holding the boot out of the way.

Well I'd say someone needs to give up playing mechanic and hand it over to the real boys then. :) (I'm just picking before you jump on me) I though it is the best design yet very simple. If you cant get the tabs in you shouldn't be changing the air filter your self.

Well I'd say someone needs to give up playing mechanic and hand it over to the real boys then. :) (I'm just picking before you jump on me) I though it is the best design yet very simple. If you cant get the tabs in you shouldn't be changing the air filter your self.

Ponyboy, suspect I was mechanic'en fore yuz was born

Ponyboy, suspect I was mechanic'en fore yuz was born

Professionaly or seat of the pants?:p:

Professionaly or seat of the pants?:p:

Maybe he plays one on TV:cool:

Gentlemen.....take it easy on the poor boy.....LOL.

Gentlemen.....take it easy on the poor boy.....LOL.

This is The Diesel Place.
When you give it out, you have to prepared to take it and STFU. :D

And why are we removing the air cleaner that many times?

To answer you question; I am doing a lot of experimenting and data logging on the new truck.
While I'm waiting on the new Banks tube I decided to remove the felt filter attached to the bottom of the regular paper filter. I do not recommend doing this but I sure like it.
I have also done fuel rail pressure data logging and if you saw what I did it would astound you.
Doing a lot of logging with the Alli. That would astound you as well.
When the new cold air intakes come out, be very carefull or you will be on a flatbed. This truck is a different beast. Things that worked before will not work on this truck. This is why I chose to go with Banks.

To answer you question; I am doing a lot of experimenting and data logging on the new truck.
While I'm waiting on the new Banks tube I decided to remove the felt filter attached to the bottom of the regular paper filter. I do not recommend doing this but I sure like it.
I have also done fuel rail pressure data logging and if you saw what I did it would astound you.
Doing a lot of logging with the Alli. That would astound you as well.
When the new cold air intakes come out, be very carefull or you will be on a flatbed. This truck is a different beast. Things that worked before will not work on this truck. This is why I chose to go with Banks.

I just ordered my exhaust from Banks a few hours ago and was talking to him about your CAI. I heard this truck is almost TOO smart. LOL

This is The Diesel Place.
When you give it out, you have to prepared to take it and STFU. :D

LOL....I don't think he is "feeling the love".......LOL.

Interesting about the 11' testing......

Professionaly or seat of the pants?:p:

Mike, though we were friends and you know my background.
Deutz, Michigan, Clark, Tow Motor, International, John Deere and Yamaha wth some R&D

To answer you question; I am doing a lot of experimenting and data logging on the new truck.
While I'm waiting on the new Banks tube I decided to remove the felt filter attached to the bottom of the regular paper filter. I do not recommend doing this but I sure like it.
I have also done fuel rail pressure data logging and if you saw what I did it would astound you.
Doing a lot of logging with the Alli. That would astound you as well.
When the new cold air intakes come out, be very carefull or you will be on a flatbed. This truck is a different beast. Things that worked before will not work on this truck. This is why I chose to go with Banks.

Care to share your astounding findings with the rest of us?

-TJ

Mike, though we were friends and you know my background.
Deutz, Michigan, Clark, Tow Motor, International, John Deere and Yamaha wth some R&D

We are friends.:D Don't take me seriously.

By all means, astound us please.

I just got my AFE 5R in today...just got the delivery confirmation from UPS so i will let you guys know how that works for the LML. Hopefully the 1month wait was worth it. Also, as far as the engine block heater is concerned, i took the air intake tube off the box and found mine in a bundle of wires ziptied. Hope that makes it easier to find.

Block heater plug http://www.kennedydiesel.com/dmaxblockheater.html from here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395896&highlight=block+heater+plug

Trailer charge here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3902863&postcount=12 and you'll need to purchase an M6x1.0 nut.

5Th wheel wiring here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3023917&postcount=4 and open the first link and go to page 8.

And one place to put it http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3789262&postcount=8

And, if you don't have a UY2 option listed in the glove box, go here http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle_wiring_kits/5th_wheel_harnesses/gm/chev_gmc_2500_3500_pickups_2000-08_5th_wheel.html


As for the DIC, where would you put the buttons on the wheel (if you have cruise and radio controls already on there)?
they are on the instrument panel now not the steering wheel. you can check.. www.gmaccessorieszone.com (http://www.gmaccessorieszone.com) for more info

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they are on the instrument panel now not the steering wheel. you can check.. www.gmaccessorieszone.com (http://www.gmaccessorieszone.com) for more info


He already has a DIC on the dash...He'd rather have his DIC on the wheel...:cool:

I'll be damned if the trailer charge wire wasn't already hooked up the new '11 3500SRW gasser that just arrived:cool:. And the fuse isn't defective on mine:rolleyes:.

I'll be damned if the trailer charge wire wasn't already hooked up the new '11 3500SRW gasser that just arrived:cool:. And the fuse isn't defective on mine:rolleyes:.

Yep, so was mine, the trailer charge system, trailer lights and trailer brake control are all ready to go from the factory.

Does that mean I'm not still dillusional, I was beginning to think a little gremlin hooked mine up and gnawed the fuse filiment into.

Does that mean I'm not still dillusional, I was beginning to think a little gremlin hooked mine up and gnawed the fuse filiment into.
I'm certain that you're still delusional and disillusioned, just as I know I am still, too;)

Yeah; high, cold, clear mountain streams with juicy Brown salmanoid hitting my dries and George Dickel back at camp.

I tend to agree on the design flaw on the filter box. I was hooking up a plow lighting harness and had to take all that stuff apart. I can see those screw heads stripping out quick. It would have been nice if they were also a hex head. Also, from the factory, my filter lid was not in the tab slots. When I went to re-install, I had a hell of a time getting it all lined back up, as previously stated, you can't see the holes/tabs and the filter gasket seems to get in the way.

I had to pull my airbox out to install my HIDs and everything seemed fine with mine. It was VERY easy to put back together, you don't really have to tilt the upper half that much to get the tabs to go in. I slid it in and then felt the back of the airbox to make sure the tabs were in.

I'll be damned if the trailer charge wire wasn't already hooked up the new '11 3500SRW gasser that just arrived:cool:. And the fuse isn't defective on mine:rolleyes:.


I to was surprised to find the charge wire already hooked up and power at the plug when I went to do my 2011.

Did you find your block heater cord?

Did you find your block heater cord?

If the question is addressing me; not sure, I felt something down there but it doesn't feel like enough bulk to be a cord. When I remove the wheel well shield to make the Pyro tap maybe I can see what is up there.

If the question is addressing me; not sure, I felt something down there but it doesn't feel like enough bulk to be a cord. When I remove the wheel well shield to make the Pyro tap maybe I can see what is up there.

If you pull the passenger side, the block cord will be right in your face tied up.

I guarantee the block heater cord is there. Everyone always posts threads about how "WTF GM DIDNT INCLUDE A BLOCK HEATER WITH MY TRUCK, YES I LOOKED FOR IT, ITS NOT THERE!!!" and then the threads suddenly just go cold, presumably because the OP ended up finding the block heater cord RIGHT WHERE its been tied up from the factory for the past 10 years. :D

I have installed and now have power for the fifth wheel which we will tow for the first time this week end. I asked for some compensation from the dealership for the extra work and inconveinance to me; the reply was that even though they had mistakenly omitted it on the order, they provided a harness and we were even. Guess that's one way to look at it but hardly the best of customer relations in my opinion.

You ordered it, you didn't get it. When you brought the problem to their attention, they fixed the problem. then you ASKED for money?

you have some sack

If you open the first link in post #20, it even has pictures and suggested routing. Dog.
Here's the link again http://www.kennedydiesel.com/dmaxblockheater.html

I live in CA, can you tell me what you do with a block heater?--Just had to rub it in! I ordered the trailer package and 5th wheel harness, thanks for the info!

I guarantee the block heater cord is there. Everyone always posts threads about how "WTF GM DIDNT INCLUDE A BLOCK HEATER WITH MY TRUCK, YES I LOOKED FOR IT, ITS NOT THERE!!!" and then the threads suddenly just go cold, presumably because the OP ended up finding the block heater cord RIGHT WHERE its been tied up from the factory for the past 10 years. :D

I see by the rant that you are still all sour inside; I sincerely hope you have a pleasant evening and feel better tomorrow.
Randy

I see by the rant that you are still all sour inside; I sincerely hope you have a pleasant evening and feel better tomorrow.
Randy
Ask him 'bout the Onstar speaker in the headliner, above the driver's seat:p:.

Ask him 'bout the Onstar speaker in the headliner, above the driver's seat:p:.

):h

I see by the rant that you are still all sour inside; I sincerely hope you have a pleasant evening and feel better tomorrow.
Randy

So Im guessing you found it. :) :p: