my main question is....So whats causes 6.2L engine stalling, then dieing? doesnt do it on intial startup, but will sometimes, but not always, on other startups throughout the day.

conditions are:
happens at startup, no other time.
RPMs are approx 500
fuel pressure is 4-4.5psi after secondary filter(running normal at 650RPMs).
highly doubt its the fuel filters.
clean airfilter(s).
timing advanced 1 lines width.
IP is 4544, which I believe has low miles, but truely unsure.

Only other symptom is very quick lost of power then dieing. example being: loaded truck. begining of motion in reverse, going over a small raise in the ground. sharp loss of power, then quits. may do this a couple times in a row. this is the only time it happens.

I have noticed one other thing. on a tow, from dead stop..started acel then go full throttle to match traffic. no power or acceleration, but engine does not die or stall. then catches, shifts, then repeats. I turned up the IP thinking that might help? Havent pulled like that since so unsure if it helped.

Ive got a guess, maybe 2. what do you guys think? :o:

Air leak?

and if you are towing with a 700r4.... add you tranny temp guage NOW!!! not later... save your tranny!!

transmission temp gauge is defently on my list of to dos. got a ext. transmisson cooler and Im pretty careful towing with it.

um..I thought an air leak would cause hard start conditions. and cause them most of the time? no hard starts for me, unless its cold outside.
only good thing about this hot weather here is it likes to start right up, and I mean right up. like 1 sec crank time.

Hey, I never claimed to be an expert.... ;)

Do you maybe have a loose connection on your pump wires? Although I would this would cause more problems than you describe....


Should be interesting to see the REAL answer from the experts... :ro)

Pull the top cover on the pump and inspect the housing pressure relief fitting. It may have a speck of debris in the check ball and seat. Check the pump for floating debris, could be foreign material in the pump. Check the metering valve for freedom of movement and no sticky places in it's travel. Check the fuel shutoff solenoid for freedom of movement and look for metal particles collecting around the plunger of the solenoid. While inside the pump, use a scribe with a hook on the end of it to move the governor weight retainer back and forth. Any more than 1/16" to 1/8" of movement and the governor weight retaining ring has failed, necessitating a pump O.H. Put a piece of clear plastic hose in place of the return line from the housing pressure relief fitting to the return line that runs to the front of both heads. Check it for air bubbles while it's running and after driving a while, recheck for more bubbles.

Thanks. I had the pump cover off recently to turn it up, then decided to go side cover instead. I didnt see any debris in the fuel then. I will do the other tests, though it will take a while to get to it so I'll get back to you.

If you do pull the top cover off, what I would suggest is lengthening the governor control rod out just a bit. I'm not 100% sure off the top of my head, but I think the 4544 has a ½" nut on the control rod. What you want to do is turn it out, just a stroke with an open end wrench.

Out will be moving the top of the wrench towards the pass side by the way.

After you do this, when you start the truck your idle speed should increase and you can put it back where you want it with the L.I. speed screw on the throttle lever or leave it alone. 650-700 is fine, later models are calibrated to 700.

What this does is changes your governor geometry to compensate for wear and keep the metering valve from closing too far and keeping it from moving open in time to maintain idle speed. Trust Me. ;)

I just got around to working on it today, after a week of rain. besides losing a screw that holds a bracket on, it went pretty good.

I dont know how you used "turn it just a stroke" so i took a guess. the nut pointy side was dead center so I turned it to the passanger side until the flat part was level.

started it up and it was a 200 RPM increase on both low and fast idle(from 800-1000 and 650-850 RPMs) I readjusted the idle to 800RPM cold and 700RPM hot. it was quite a few turns on the idle screw to get it to 700.

I didnt drive it around, but in the driveway after warm up then shutdown, waited a few minutes and restarted. the engine did drop rpms below idle but it didnt stall. so hopefully this fixed the problem.

I'll report back when its actually driven. its hard to tell if it actually drops rpms or if thats from battery drain(when glow plug cycle finished)

TDG did I turn the gov rod enough?
thanks for the help. Stanadyne fuel additive will help i beleive, if I can find some around here.

oh yeah, I also checked the check ball valve in the return fitting, seemed clean and it was easy to move.

Sounds like you did good.

I hope so. I dont feel like taking it apart again.

How is it working now?
Your description of the increased idle speed is exactly what you should have noticed, and tells me you did what I was trying to get you to do.

Is it still stalling?

I beleive it is still stalling. got to run it today, about 50mph top for about 40 minutes. parked for 1hr 10 minutes. started it up, seemed okay..glow plug cylce ended. put it into gear and notice idle speed dropping. I let it go to see what happened and it tried to die on me. a little throttle saved it.

drove 10 feet to a stop at a speedbump. still in gear, fully stoped with brakes. starts dropping again...it goes low, i shift to neutral(no throttle)and it barely saves it from dieing.

also having a bit of trouble now with temperature dropping. doesnt seem right since its not that cold at night yet for such problems. so going to take the test light to the plugs and see if all are working, I just replaced them last year..9g-11g. (before I heard of 60g's)

any new thoughts of the stalling?

Metering Valve is still sticking inside the pump.

Did you try any fuel conditioner? Either way, conditioner and adjusting the governor is a temporary fix. The metering valve, among other parts I'm sure, needs to be replaced to really fix it.

Havent come across any stanadyne fuel conditioner here, or Id use it. if this is the case..im going to use it till the IP blows up. I can live with the problem until then.

thanks for the help. took a long trip tonight. what you had me do mightve fixed that little lag i was getting on top end while hot.