I was looking for fuel/air leaks in my fuel system. Had it idling and on a whim I opened the bleed valve. It ran for a couple minutes, then died. What's with running so long? I figured it would die right away if there was a fuel transfer problem. There was never any fuel out of the bleed valve either. This van has an electric transfer pump and I could hear it running for a few seconds after the engine died. This is an 89 GMC G20.

While I am here, do I just take out the EGR and cap the vaccum line? Is that all there is to elimanating the EGR? Thanks. Mike

Have you changed the fuel filter recently? If the supply pump was working like it should, then it should have squirted fuel all over the place when you opened the bleed.

If it died when you opened the bleed valve, it got a "snoot fulla air"! Not uncommon on the 6.2 engine. I've heard all kinds of stories about bleeding the air with the engine running by opening the air bleed screws. I've never succeeded in doing anything but killing the engine and filling the I.P. full of air.

I bleed systems the old fashioned way, by hooking up a big, heavy-duty battery charger to one battery and another of my diesels to the other battery with a set of "Double Zero Guage" welding-cable jumper cables. By cranking for 10 - 15 seconds and resting the starter for 5 minutes, I can force fuel into and through the system and get it running in about an hour and still have a good starter when I'm done. It's slow, but it beats the problems I've read about here!

The 6.2, especially the early, pre-electric lift pump models, were very difficult to prime and get all the air out of. Those engines did NOT tolerate air at all! I have spent many hours fighting air leaks and have learned the hard way, you have to fix the leaks or they won't run! Fred

i use air pressure to help bleed these systems open the air bleed on the top of the filter and apply a bit of air pressure to the fuel tank and it will push the fuel through the lines and fill the filter then you only have a small amount of line left from filter to i/p to crank out

it did get air in the fuel system. With the electric pump it is no problem to bleed most of the air and get it started. That is just what I did. It started, stumbled, died, then I started it again, ran fine. But why no fuel out of the bleed valve when it was open? I guess my next step is to pull the hose off upstream of the bleed valve. If I don't get fuel then something is weird huh.

About the EGR. Do I have to pull the intake manifold and block off ports to eliminate the EGR? Mike

unplugging the vacuum line will have the same effect, just make sure you plug the line too.

unplugging the vacuum line will have the same effect, just make sure you plug the line too.

yeah Tex, I know to plug the vaccum line. But do I remove the EGR valve from under the air filter or just leave it in place? Mike

You must install solid intake manifold gaskets to keep the exhaust gas out of the intake manifold. I cut the EGR base off and welded a plate on to it to cover the hole up. I installed solid intake manifold gaskets and then cut out the butterfly in the left exhaust manifold to complete the job.

I could have left the exhaust gas to flow thru the intake manifold since that happens when the EGR is closed. It acts as a bypass between the right and left exhaust manifolds. but I don't like that dirty exhaust gas contaminating the manifolds and valves. I had a muffler shop install a bypass between my two exhaust pipes (under the rear trans. mount) to increase my horsepower and torque.

i use air pressure to help bleed these systems open the air bleed on the top of the filter and apply a bit of air pressure to the fuel tank and it will push the fuel through the lines and fill the filter then you only have a small amount of line left from filter to i/p to crank out

I, too use air but didn't want to "help" someone possibly rupture a tank, blow a line or something bad, like that. I'm too careful sometimes. Not knowing the truck or the level of technical expertise, I didn't advise the "air thing". But, it works!

I ran out of fuel pulling my 31' Airstream across Texas - right on the highway - what a bear getting it primed - wore out the two batteries and a truck-fellow saved the day.

So, I installed a high-quality ($8.00) squeeze bulb for outboards on the downward side of the square filter (I have two fuel filters - firewall square one and round before that one). Before I had the injector pump re-built it leaked fuel out the shaft that runs through it connected to pedal - it was oblong from long use/abuse. So, it lost prime.

So, before starting I'd squeeze the bulb a few times 'til it got resistance and filled the injector pump. Works great! Put the "arrow" pointing toward the pump. (chuckle)

Dennis

yeah Tex, I know to plug the vaccum line. But do I remove the EGR valve from under the air filter or just leave it in place? Mike
You have to have something to block exhaust gases from entering the intake. So either leave the EGR valve in place, or install HD manifold gaskets under the manifold, either way will work.

what I don't understand is why it ran for 2 or more minutes before it quit. And why no fuel ran out of the drain line. I will deal with that tomorrow.

Thanks for the help with the EGR valve. I'll just unplug and block off the vaccum line to the EGR. This won't increase the amount of air that the engine can ingest, just keeps the dirty stuff out. What can be seen in the throat of the intake is pretty bad. Looks like a J manifold is going on the list. May be changing out the IP soon so that will fit right in.

Today I pressurized the fuel system. I tapped a fuel cap and installed a quick coupler. Yesterday I'd installed an air pressure regulator on the compressor. Using about 3 to 5 PSI a leak was found in the new Carter eletric fuel pump. It probably don't have 400 miles on it. Tomorrow it goes back. Maybe some day this will be the engine it should be. Mike

Carter?? Blah! there's your problem.
ACDelco (OEM) or Delphi, don't waste your money on Master/Carter junk.
If you read the label on the box, it says its suitable for gasoline or gasohol, not diesel.

IF YOU TAKE THE EGR VALVE OUT OF THE INTAKE YOU CAN REPLACE IT WITH A BRASS FREEZE PLUG . THIS WILL BE A CLEAN AND EASY FIX .
I DON'T REMEMBER WHAT SIZE PLUG WE USED BUT IT WORKED GOOD .:grd:

I had a p 30 with a 6.2 and always had a bear starting after bleeds or fuel filter change, cardinal rule no starting fluid, but I used to use W-D 40 , a few seconds squirt and it would usually roll over , it may stall but it would usually start after 2 times, (might have to do a second bleed) it was alot cheaper than a new gear reduction starter or bateries,(which I did go through 3 starters, 4 bateries)

Good job, Dennis! I love your "improvise, adapt and overcome"! You're a true diesel guy. I,too, have used those bulbs a few times. I have one on my generator. Sure helps starting/flushing after sitting for months! Pull the line off the carb, pump until fresh fuel runs out, reconnect line, pump until resistance is felt, start engine, open beer, relax! Wife has lights, again after the storm!

Tex, I read the label, carefully. Diesel is one of the fuels listed in the application for a Carter model P4070. Mike

I stand corrected then. The ones I've read didn't list diesel though.

tried looking for a J intake on ebay. Anybody know what catagory to look in? I'm not finding much for 6.2s. Mike

On ebaymotors.com try these search words. I found mine on the first word.

6.2
6.2L
chevy diesel
gmc diesel

Ive found 6.2 stuff on the last two words. people list them not knowing the engine size apparently. keep looking, sometimes there is none. sometimes 5 intakes at a time!

will a 6.5 non turbo intake work on a 6.2? I know I'd have to make a different set up for a filter. But I need to know if it would bolt up to my heads. Thanks. Mike

yes

thanks Tex

Hey guys wat ive found out works great is disconnect the ip sylenoid crank for about 15 secs with airbleed open, then close airbleed reconnect wire and usall it starts but sometimes a second time is required.