Me and my dad are going in on a 5th wheel trailer together (upgrading from a TT). Its 25 foot with a GVWR or about 8500 and a pin weight of about 1000lbs. We want a 5th wheel hitch that can be taken out so that we only have to buy one hitch and share it between our two trucks. He has an 03 F250 and mine is the truck in my sig. We also plan to tow a boat behind the 5th so im thinking we'll need a decently strong 5th wheel hitch. Will a sliding hitch be necessary with my short bed? The trailer has a pretty short nose on it. What is a good brand or model of hitch that is easily removable and strong. This trailer will see ALOT of use so we don't want to cheap out on the hitch.

Sorry for all the questions, this is our first 5th wheel.

I have a Draw.Tite part number 40285 same as Reese slider that has frame mounts that are bed level when hitch is removed which are nice and is rated for 18,000 lbs. The frame mounts are bought separate for any style truck and the hitch can be used with all trucks with that frame mount. Hope this helps, check out there website.

I have the B&W gooseneck hitch with the companion 5th wheel attatchment. My dad has the same hitch in his ford and when he need the 5th wheel hitch it just drops in his truck, easy.

I have the B&W gooseneck hitch with the companion 5th wheel attatchment. My dad has the same hitch in his ford and when he need the 5th wheel hitch it just drops in his truck, easy.


Going with the above. Have the same outfit. I love it and B&w is great to deal with if you need to. A new turnover ball and 5th wheel companion should run you around $1200 or so.

We just did the same, upgraded from our 24ft tt to a 32ft 5th wheel. With a short box a lot will depend on the trailer and pinbox setup for clearance. I didn't want to worry about getting into a tight turn situation or have to get out and mess with a manual sliding hitch. I went with the pullrite superglide auto slideing hitch. It's a very stout hitch and works beautifully. A lot pricier than most but worth it for the piece of mind for me. It can be completly removed from the bed with nothing left except for 4 holes in the bed. I ordered it online and installed it myself in about 6 hrs with a few beers. Their customer service is top notch. It is a heavy sucker though, my 16k model weighs in about 180lbs.

I have a 16K non slider. I have the truck in my sig and don't have any problems backing up or turning with my 5th wheel. My parents have had a 5th wheel for quite awhile and have a slider but it was way more expensive and they have never used it. I would just buy a cheap but good hitch (mine was $400) and be good with it. Towing a trailer behind the 5th wheel doesn't really put the whole weight on the hitch.

Me and my dad are going in on a 5th wheel trailer together (upgrading from a TT). Its 25 foot with a GVWR or about 8500 and a pin weight of about 1000lbs. We want a 5th wheel hitch that can be taken out so that we only have to buy one hitch and share it between our two trucks. He has an 03 F250 and mine is the truck in my sig. We also plan to tow a boat behind the 5th so im thinking we'll need a decently strong 5th wheel hitch. Will a sliding hitch be necessary with my short bed? The trailer has a pretty short nose on it. What is a good brand or model of hitch that is easily removable and strong. This trailer will see ALOT of use so we don't want to cheap out on the hitch.

Sorry for all the questions, this is our first 5th wheel.

First, congrats on your plans.

1. Make sure the trailer is designed for a 6'6" bed. Many modern 5ers are, they have the corners cut to give more clearance to the cab.

2. I'd double check that pin weight. When the trailer is loaded to it's 8.5k GVWR I'd reckon that it weighs at least 1,500 lbs depending on how you set hitch and load your trailer it could 500lbs more again. You have enough truck, just making sure you realize not to treat manufacturer's weight figures as anything more than hopeful estimates.

3. The other guys are giving good hitch advice. One thing I'd add is I'd get too much hitch rather than too little. Also, make sure your truck's rear tires are aired to 70psi when your hooked up.

Happy camping!:)

Rob

I just traded in my Lance 1191 truck camper for a 2011 Durango by KZ fiver. It's a 275RL. The brochure says it's 29'+ It has a pin weight of about 1K and grosses 18-19K. I ordered a B&W Companion Hitch and the mounting kit for my truck. I had to drill only 1 hole, a 4" one through the bed. It uses all existing frame holes and "U" bolts. I ordered it off the net with no tax and no shipping. I installed it myself and saved about $800.00 from what a local hitch dealer quoted. I also got a "factory" plug in wiring harness. I know what I got is overkill but I now don't have to worry about it.

Thanks for all the advise. I ended up buying a 20k Curt Q5. That dang thing weighs well over 200lbs. Decided on not getting a slider because the guy we are buying it from has a dodge short bed and he said it doesn't even get close to the cab.

I'm pretty sure that 1k pin weight is empty.

BTW, I have the regular small power folding mirrors and am going to need something with more vision. I can't decide between the CIPA slip on mirrors and the factory tow mirrors. Do the slip on type hold up with alot of use and on rough roads? I will be towing this trailer at least 13,000 miles this year.

Always get the slider or else. The more you tow the more comfortable you get and the more forgetful you get. If you don't get a slider you will be buying a new back window and fixing the dent on your truck.

Also no way that pin is only going to be 1000 lbs. Your gear will be in the front with two 60lb propane tanks and a battery or two and those are never included in the "empty" tongue weight trailers are spec'ed out at. For such a light trailer I would get the lowest priced Reese. I can attest that it isn't too heavy to take out. I don't know others other then a pull rite and at 250 or 300 lbs stay away from them if you want to move it often.

Be careful without that slider... my FIL never used his until he blew out his rear window and crushed the corner of his cab, he uses it whenever maneuvering now. He was backing into the driveway and when the 5er went up on the entrance it twisted and hit the cab. level ground he was always fine, just caught it wrong once and it was enough.

Always get the slider or else. The more you tow the more comfortable you get and the more forgetful you get. If you don't get a slider you will be buying a new back window and fixing the dent on your truck.

Also no way that pin is only going to be 1000 lbs. Your gear will be in the front with two 60lb propane tanks and a battery or two and those are never included in the "empty" tongue weight trailers are spec'ed out at. For such a light trailer I would get the lowest priced Reese. I can attest that it isn't too heavy to take out. I don't know others other then a pull rite and at 250 or 300 lbs stay away from them if you want to move it often.

nowhere near 250-300 lbs. My 16k superglide weighs in at 180. Heavier than most, yes. But easily handled with 2 people or 1 person and a overhead hoist/come along setup. The pullrite superglide (made in the US) and the hijacker autoslide (made in Canada) are the only 2 auto sliders I know of.

I have the Reese brackets that bolt to the frame and the hitch ends up ~1-2 inches forward of the axle. My problem is if I slide the hitch back it will hit the tailgate on any turn. So I can't use my slider unless I remove the tailgate or get a 5th wheel tailgate. I haven't had to use the slider yet and don't think I ever will since I can turn beyond the point the front corner would impact the cab. Maybe my king pin setup is different than most 5th wheels. I have a 2007 keystone springdale. Good Luck.

Be careful without that slider... my FIL never used his until he blew out his rear window and crushed the corner of his cab, he uses it whenever maneuvering now. He was backing into the driveway and when the 5er went up on the entrance it twisted and hit the cab. level ground he was always fine, just caught it wrong once and it was enough.

This is why I ALWAYS run a headache rack on all of my trucks, both std bed and LB.

Check out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YajlvudkW_Y

I am in the auto sliding hitch camp = yes it is heavy/expensive but my peace of mind and cost benefit analysis is well established after 3 camping seasons of use in conditions from open freeway runnning to single lane steep dirt Forest Service roads in Washington, Idaho and Oregon. Travel where I go normally would be very difficult without a slider of some type. The only hitch system that allows cutback turns is an auto slider or sidewinder pin box. So travel plans, truck (hitch placement) and trailer PIN box to front cap relationship really dictate the need of your hitch system. Simple math can help you make an informed decision.

Quote by Coolbreeze: "Always get the slider or else. The more you tow the more comfortable you get and the more forgetful you get. If you don't get a slider you will be buying a new back window and fixing the dent on your truck."

100% agree with the statement in red. With an autoslider it is nearly a non issue for most situations.

I have the Reese brackets that bolt to the frame and the hitch ends up ~1-2 inches forward of the axle. My problem is if I slide the hitch back it will hit the tailgate on any turn. So I can't use my slider unless I remove the tailgate or get a 5th wheel tailgate. I haven't had to use the slider yet and don't think I ever will since I can turn beyond the point the front corner would impact the cab. Maybe my king pin setup is different than most 5th wheels. I have a 2007 keystone springdale. Good Luck.

A lot depends on the pinbox style and hitch mounting for the tailgate and bed side clearance. My pullrite superglide and the lippert long pinbox on my 5er work ok for me with the tailgate up and in place. It comes close but I can get to a 90 deg turn no problem if I needed to with the tailgate on.

[quote=transferred;4061629]This is why I ALWAYS run a headache rack on all of my trucks, both std bed and LB.

quote]

Thats not going to eliminate potential damage though. I'd rather invest in a proper hitch and forget about it. One time contacting the truck with the trailer will cost more for the repairs than the extra cost of an autoslider hitch, in my view anyway.

Thats not going to eliminate potential damage though. I'd rather invest in a proper hitch and forget about it. One time contacting the truck with the trailer will cost more for the repairs than the extra cost of an autoslider hitch, in my view anyway.

Agreed, but the extra safety of a headache rack whether towing or hauling is undeniable.

We'll see how she works without the slider. The trailer has a very short nose and has an extended pin box so it shouldn't be too bad. I will definitely be testing how close it comes to the cab before assuming it's ok.

BTW the trailer is an 05 Forest River 24BHSS.

I have a pair of the CIPAs for my 1500 gasser and they work great. I am looking at a CCLB tomorrow as we upgraded to at 31 ft TT and its to much for a 1/2. I am looking at two trucks, one with camper mirrors the other without. If I get the one with the camper mirrors, I will make ya a heck of a deal on the CIPAs.

We'll see how she works without the slider. The trailer has a very short nose and has an extended pin box so it shouldn't be too bad. I will definitely be testing how close it comes to the cab before assuming it's ok.

BTW the trailer is an 05 Forest River 24BHSS.

Take it to a big parking lot or field and do some turns forward and backward to figure it out. Also remember that your clearance can change greatly when the ground is uneven during the turn -that means that what is safe on even ground may not be safe on a up or down sloping driveway.

lol if you dont get a slider you will never get into spaces at alot of parks - i have a 32 footer and can get it between trees, bolders etc no problem - and you will blow out the window or you wil never get into many spaces! my pullrite i take it out using the 5th wheel just pull 4 cotter pins and out she comes - a couple of bungee cords to keep it level - you are good to go - leave only 4 2 inch holes in the bed and you reverse the sleeves and they plug it up -

Took my new (to me) 5er to the inside storage place (morton building) I found , boy am I glad I have the superglide. I'd have never got it in without it.

Vote for the B&W here as well. Use it with a Reese Sidewinder pinbox to turn tight. Clears the stacks/headache rack with lots to spare, and damn, i've put this rig in some tight places this past year. People would come over wondering how the hell it turned that tight....

Also have towed some loaded down g'necks (20000 lbs. plus) and have never had a problem with the hitch. All the bolts are still tight and none of the hardware has moved a bit.

Finally got her picked up this weekend. The truck turns and backs up great without a slider. I had it maybe 80 degrees backing into this spot at my dad's house and still had room from the back of the cab. I can turn this trailer much sharper than the boat or TT and I have never run into a problem backing either of them into a spot before. I'm loving the trailer so far. Already planning mods for it.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m315/clm7214/2010-11-06_14-58-46_420.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m315/clm7214/2010-11-06_14-58-56_206.jpg

My only advise is to use a spotter outside when backing into a tight spot. The spotters ONLY job should be to watch the cab to trailer clearance.

Lots of people have justified their choice to not buy a slider with a SB truck the same as you have. A good percentage of that same bunch also learned the hard way that sheet metal and rear windows are expensive to repair.

It only takes one moment of inattention and you'll join the later bunch eventually. A big advantage of a 5er is maneuverability. With maneuverability comes willingness to choose/accept tighter campsites. With that, comes tight turns...and the rest is history.

Get the GM factory tow mirrors. You can get a pretty good price through GM Parts.com. The mirrors will plug into the existing harness to give you heat, adjustablility, and turn signals. They are pretty easy to install.

I have used add-ons in the past, but the problem I always had was adjusting the right side when I was alone or if I wanted to move the mirror to check a tight spot as I was backing the trailer. Just like your hitch you won't regret going with the best.