Lots of discussion of rust in the injectors and such. I've put together a PDF of the hows and why's.

www.merchant-automotive.com (http://merchant-automotive.com)

See the "Tech Information" on the bottom left of the page for the PDF

Perfect timing as I get ready to do my injectors next weekend. I certainly will fill the gap up silicone now.

Thank you for posting that it is very helpful.

Im doing my injectors tomorrow, thanks for the help

Do they have to be bead blasted or has anyone tried an acid wash to get rid of the rust? It seems like the acid wash would get inside better but I don't want to risk damaging anything.

There is no rust inside the lines.

When I installed my injectors, the lines had corrosion on the fittings, but I found that the retaining "nuts" wouldnt push back far enough to allow complete cleaning of the tips. I just did the best I could with a small piece of emery cloth and made sure to clean the lines with brake cleaner thoroughly before I installed them. So far, no problems.

One thing Id love to know is how does a person figure out how much torque they're putting on those fittings. Torque wrench with a crows foot?

When I installed my injectors, the lines had corrosion on the fittings, but I found that the retaining "nuts" wouldnt push back far enough to allow complete cleaning of the tips. I just did the best I could with a small piece of emery cloth and made sure to clean the lines with brake cleaner thoroughly before I installed them. So far, no problems.

One thing Id love to know is how does a person figure out how much torque they're putting on those fittings. Torque wrench with a crows foot?

Exactly

I replaced mine when I did them on my dime because the set done by the dealer, the tech had rounded the nuts(thankfully not enough that I could not get them off) on 5 out of the 8. Also, just to be safe, I thought I would begin the new set with new lines as a precaution.

Nice write up. Thanks for showing us what to look for and to understand what we find. Did you use scotch brite to clean everything?

Do they have to be bead blasted or has anyone tried an acid wash to get rid of the rust? It seems like the acid wash would get inside better but I don't want to risk damaging anything.

My lines were pretty rusty, at least worst than any picture I found on this website. I used 'Naval Jelly' and a tooth brush to clean the ends. After cleaning, the portion of the flare above the part where it meets the top of the injector were pitted pretty bad on 4 of them, but I re-used them. So far, with almost 20k, no fuel in the oil.

There is no rust inside the lines.


I meant inside the nut, between it and the tube.

My lines were pretty rusty, at least worst than any picture I found on this website. I used 'Naval Jelly' and a tooth brush to clean the ends. After cleaning, the portion of the flare above the part where it meets the top of the injector were pitted pretty bad on 4 of them, but I re-used them. So far, with almost 20k, no fuel in the oil.


That's what I was wondering. Seems like it would get inside the hard to reach parts better than media blasting would.

Thanks!

Great write-up. Thanks for the info and the great service from your company!

One thing Id love to know is how does a person figure out how much torque they're putting on those fittings. Torque wrench with a crows foot?
I bought a 19mm flare nut socket from Snap-On and it worked great. I was very concerned about not getting the lines torqued correctly after I read the crows foot info about 90 degress, etc. I used a flare nut crowfoot to get he lines off (because the socket hadn't arrived) and it was better for the disassembly but the socket was better for the final line tightening IMO. The socket was stupid expensive ($74 :eek:) but I chalked it up to my tool tax for doing the job myself and saving the +$1000 in labor. I also filled all the fittings with the remaining silicone I got in Eric's kit so hopefully the next time I won't need new lines. The amount of rust and crud that filled the injectors would turn your stomach.

:banghead: Gotta love tool bills! I usually end up using a snap on open end (snap on had the least flex out of any tool brand with open end wrenches) to loosen then i have a matco set of crows foot that work great for torquing.

In the article Eric, you stated theat the injector is ready for reinstallation.
What is the most prone failure of the injectors and require replacement?
I have a friend who owns a 2001 Dmax and his was filling the case with fuel, but they said they jusr replaced some seals and all is well. His truck has like 220,000 miles on origional injectors, so what I am asking is can we remove the injectors and tap them out and reinstaall as long at the body is not cracked and allowing fuel to get into the engine?

Also what do the numbers of the Balance rates mean?

If it is like +6.45, would that mean the injector is having to fuel more to compinsate for some blockage?

I am just wanting to know what the numbers mean.

Thanks

Here is what mine looked like after making sure to clean everything from the outside before removing the lines.

The lines on my LB7 were corroded pretty bad, and at the dealership while doing the warranty replacement the service guy told me that it was caused by my "programmer"...LOL! I told them "I hadn't been running my programmer since the last time they replaced the injectors [it was an Edge, and had went south], but regardless, tell me exactly HOW the programmer creates RUST!?" Needless to say, they had no answer...

Nice job!

For anybody out there needing a crowfoot socket, I bought a set made by Sunex. here's a link to the one I got.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9710M-8-Inch-Metric-Crowfoot/dp/B0002SRJF4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1288120229&sr=8-4

I have nothing against snap on or any other tool makers. I actually like snap on tools but on items that I don't use that much, I have a hard time spending alot of money.
Sears also sells these and they have a lifetime warranty.

They helped out great for me and I never had any problems.
Just thought others would like another option to other expensive tools.

I don't know about anybody else's lines but mine were really tight. I had to put an adapter on my socket so I could use a 1/2in drive ratchet and even then it was a battle.

yellowchevy

I scored a NEW Takeoffs set of lines off of Ebay for 60 bucks, Looks like I got a deal!

So if I do an injector job, I will swap them out, then clena my old ones and box then up just in case someone else needs them, or maybe me if needed.......

Thanks for the link YellowChevy, I will save that bit of info as well.
Kinda like the 36mm 12 point socket for the balancer bolt when you change the Water Pump, I got one off of Ebay for 9 bucks, it was from a VW guy, it seems the VW has one bolt that is a 36mm 12 point as well.....

I scored a NEW Takeoffs set of lines off of Ebay for 60 bucks, Looks like I got a deal!

So if I do an injector job, I will swap them out, then clena my old ones and box then up just in case someone else needs them, or maybe me if needed.......

Thanks for the link YellowChevy, I will save that bit of info as well.
Kinda like the 36mm 12 point socket for the balancer bolt when you change the Water Pump, I got one off of Ebay for 9 bucks, it was from a VW guy, it seems the VW has one bolt that is a 36mm 12 point as well.....

Glad I could help someone, they worked out very well for me.

I was also in need of that 36mm socket to in order to rotate the engine.
So I did what anybody would do that doesn't have alot of money(or wouldn't use that much), I went to harbor freight and bought a set, haha.
Along with with the large wrenches so I could take off the fan clutch.

Sorry to high jack your post Tolliwacker.

Eric Merchants valve adjustment how to on his website was very helpful.
Thanks for your help Eric in posting that on your sit for all to use.

yellowchevy