Okay guys, to keep or sell. I'm in a tough spot with my truck. This is more of a scenario issue, than a make or break deal for the bank account or the wife so keep them out of the equation.

I have 2.5yrs left on my 2001 w/ 145K miles and owe about $2K more than I'll get in trade in (w/o injectors known bad = $12.5K). I just developed some small smoke in drive w/ brake, and even less in park. Currently running Standyne Performance cleaner x2 strength in this tank. Smoke developed last tank. Oil is fine, mileage is great, but haven't had injectors tested. I love this truck, she brings a smile to my face everyday, but I now worry about killing her and getting really far behind on her.

Other issues are ABS brakes (not real concerned here), has driverside rocker panel rust, a hole about 6" wide by 3" wide in it under ext. cab door, and will need new tires in the spring.

Would you keep it, and pray that the $5K fix holds for another 2.5yrs (roughly 50K miles) troublefree, fix the small issues with her, and hope for the best? Or trade it in on a 07/08 1500 with low miles, get a warranty for a few years, suck up shitty fuel mileage towing the camper, and los

could you atleast get a 2500 without putting money down? if you tow i would hate to not only downgrade to a gasser but to also downgrade to a smaller weight class. my boss has a 6.0 2500hd and it still tows like a champ and would handle a camper fine. can you even get the 6.0 in 1500s or is it only the 5.3? all i know is i would never get a 1500 hundred after owning something bigger but i could probably settle with a gasser if push came to shove, actually i know more about gassers to begin with...

You can get a 6.0 in the new 1500 vortec max and there were some vortec max obs ones to.

I am in the same boat. 02 LB7 DRW which dealer diagnosed all 8 injectors bad, started making oil. Truck has 69K miles and GM wouldn't cover under special policy. Truck is in good shape, but needs tires and with dealer repair to injectors plus tires I estimate a total of $8,500 +/- needed to keep it on the road. Not to mention the truck is 10 years old, I am awaiting an offer on trade in for a new GMC DRW. Hate to get rid of the truck but GM tech said 65% chance truck will need injectors or some related repair in one year so by then I would have spent what the trucks worth. Tough call

I am in the same boat. 02 LB7 DRW which dealer diagnosed all 8 injectors bad, started making oil. Truck has 69K miles and GM wouldn't cover under special policy. Truck is in good shape, but needs tires and with dealer repair to injectors plus tires I estimate a total of $8,500 +/- needed to keep it on the road. Not to mention the truck is 10 years old, I am awaiting an offer on trade in for a new GMC DRW. Hate to get rid of the truck but GM tech said 65% chance truck will need injectors or some related repair in one year so by then I would have spent what the trucks worth. Tough call

why give an extra 2-3000 to the stealer, if you have the space and tools you can replace the injectors yourself there is a awesome thread about it in this section

Good read so far guys, keep it coming...

1.) I have thought about doing it myself, but don't have the space nor can we live without 2 vehicles for that amount of time (sad I know, but work dictates this).
2.) I will be calling the dealer to see if they will warranty parts/labor for 12months. This will be a huge deciding factor of doing it myself, or having them do it if I decide to keep her.
3.) If I go to a gasser, then it will be a 1500. The gas mileage of the 6.0 for a DD compared to the gas mileage for the amount of times pulling the camper outweighs itself. I agree that going from this to a 1500 is going to be tough, but I am really thinking it can be done.

Id vote for you doing it yourself. You could do it in a weekend provided to made sure you got plenty of extra parts. I did my headgaskets by myself when i was 21, wasnt super easy but its been almost 3 years and had no issues and injectors are cake compared to head gaskets. I wouldnt downgrade to a 1500. My boss has a cc/sb 1500 5.3L and gets about 17mpg you really would get the same with the 6.0L. It makes more torque and require less engine load for the same ammount of power as the 5.3L.

Id vote for you doing it yourself. You could do it in a weekend provided to made sure you got plenty of extra parts. I did my headgaskets by myself when i was 21, wasnt super easy but its been almost 3 years and had no issues and injectors are cake compared to head gaskets. I wouldnt downgrade to a 1500. My boss has a cc/sb 1500 5.3L and gets about 17mpg you really would get the same with the 6.0L. It makes more torque and require less engine load for the same ammount of power as the 5.3L.

Whew, that's some stout gas mileage for a 6.0. Does he have the newer 5sp with 3.73's? Best I have heard is 14-15 unloaded with a tailwind:D

So would you take this truck in to get injectors tested at the dealer and chance putting a red flag in the system on the vin, or go to nondealer. Or, drive it, try another tank of fuel, see if she clears up, keep an eye on oil daily. Then if it stays the same, trader her in.

I am really having a hard time figuring out if I want to try them myself. I am an engineer by trade, and actually worked with waterjets, and 60K psi intensifier pumps, lines, diamond orifices, etc...I would just hate to have to tear into it again if something wasn't installed correctly, or seated correctly. I have personally seen the kind of heat and corrosion that high pressure fluids can do to metal components.....hmmmmm

Well dealer said there is a 12month/12K mile warranty...

Im not sure what transmission he has but i dont think 17mpg is that great for a 5.3L. I get 18.5 unloaded in my much heavier truck with a 110hp tune. If you are just getting smoke and not losing power and no gaining oil i would say keep driving it to see if it gets worse. If you were making oil i would stop driving it immediately. I would check it every day to make sure there was no fuel leaking into the crankcase.

I would call eric at Merchant Automotive and he will set you up with everythin you need to do it as well as offer you over the phone help when you're doing it. I cant say enough good thinks about Eric and his crew.

In your situation...I'd go with the gasoline 1500 option. This particular truck needs alot in my opinion. Lots of things can go wrong at this age/mileage. And all are expensive/time consuming.

You sound like you need something that you can just fuel up and go. Change the oil every 3K and forget about the rest. You can spend your time pulling the camper with a 1500...or spend it in the garage replacing injectors, head gaskets, injection pumps, water pumps and rocker panels. Lots of money on a 2001. And the book value of the truck won't change a bit if you invest big bucks into making it right.

For someone who really really loves their truck...only then will the investment/time make sense...and only to them. The money your talking about will buy alot of gas. And thats only when your pulling the camper when you'll get lower mileage.

i would stay away from the 5.3L myself. they have issues of cracking heads. and its pretty comon. although there were only a few years with this problem and i dont remember which years they were... the 6.0L are pretty hard on fuel as well. i agree... tough spot...

I grenaded the motor in mine, it was paid for and in good shape. It was going to be a 6-7K rebuild, tranny needed help also. I had the same conversation that you are having. It came down to payback. 6k is about 1 years worth of payments, so I went for it and as of August I got my one year of service back. It runs well still and should last a couple more years. So I'm money ahead.

If trading it in will extend the term of your current loan think long and hard about it.

FYI. my buddys 6.0 2500 gas get closer to 10 MPG, This is empty, with awesome maintenance. Towing is almost laughable. He has had a problem with the trans twice, planetary gears, running dry. Last time he had to replace the lines and radiator and new trans. They though he had a blockage somewhere. So Guess what the "warranty didnt apply". So needless to say just because you get another truck doesnt mean it is going to be completely trouble free. Somebody else might be trading off their problem as well. If you feel you can do the work, but it is a time issue and a spare car. Take a extra day or two off work, and rent a car for a couple of days. Car rental is cheap. And unless you bring home alot of $$$ you labor will be cheaper than paying the dealer. Or maybe try to find a Diesel independent shop near you. For Many of the performance diesel places this is second nature and will probally be much less.

I was in the same boat as you and just last week, i had all 8 injectors replaced at the stealer. The truck is paid for and in good shape. I've owned it since new. It's cheaper than trading it in on a new comparable vehicle and getting stuck with $600 a month payments for the next 5 or 6 years. I'm just going to continue to change the fuel filters and oil like i did the first 155K miles with no trouble and keep going. The fuel mileage in the 5.3 won't be as high as you have heard....i have that one in my tahoe and it's 17 or so on the highway and 14 around town with just me in it and the 6.0's eat fuel too, especially towing a camper.

I had all 8 replaced and had the high pressure lines replaced 6 months ago. Decided it would be cheaper to pay the $3600.00 than take a loss on a trade or sale then start over for another 5 years on a newer more expensive truck.

I maintain this truck the best I can thanks to this site and the wealth of info on it. It is a work truck and it has it dings but it's running well (knocking on a lot of wood)
The only way I'd get rid of this truck is if fuel sky rockets again and doesnt come down or it has another expensive problem where it doesnt make sense to dump money into it.

FWIW: I would hate to downgrade. That being said: My father has a 01 1500hd with a 4l80 trans and the 6.0. It has been an unbeatable truck. I laugh at whoever said 17mpg. He gets 12.5 no matter if he drives like a grandpa or if I jump in and use my lead foot. It tows perfectly adequate for what your requiring. He has 160k on it and has done NOTHING to it except for a relay, and fuel pump sender. Original plugs, wires, water pump, injectors, trans, rear, ALL BRAKES (starting to get low and pulse but still amazing). Truck has been amazing. But I still like the diesel ;)

Well i've driven by bosses 5.3L many times and it does indeed get 16.5mpg. I still think thats really low considering i get 18.5mpg in my 200k duramax.

A friend of mine owns a pool cover company and 3 of his fleet vehicles are 2500 chevys. He gets 19-22mpg all day long on them granted that is all highway miles but still thats impressive.

Well i've driven by bosses 5.3L many times and it does indeed get 16.5mpg. I still think thats really low considering i get 18.5mpg in my 200k duramax.

A friend of mine owns a pool cover company and 3 of his fleet vehicles are 2500 chevys. He gets 19-22mpg all day long on them granted that is all highway miles but still thats impressive.

Gotcha, you were talking the 5.3L, that I can believe. In the 6.0, there is no way. That being said, I too average around 17-18mpg, with alittle better on the last trip on the highway, that's why I love her:D

I appreciate all of your guys input, it was exactly what I was looking for from both sides of the fence.

I'm going to go test drive some 08-11's and see what they'll give me for her. If no one wants to sell me a new truck, or get the numbers close then I'll be fixing her.

The writeups are awsome on this site, so that is looking more and more realistic. Then it becomes do one injector (based on test results), or one bank, or the whole thing....

My LB7 has 254,000 miles on it. A set of injectors averages about 72,000 miles. I did my own injectors, and will not hesitate to do it again.

A close friend of mine traded his DMAX, in on a GMT900 HD 6.0L truck. His enclosed car hauling trailer has only been hooked to the 6.0L truck once.

He has an open car hauler also, it gets all the use now. The 6.0L hates the bigger trailer. He is a paraplegic, with two nice Camaros, one Grand National, and a Model A Ford. We live in Michigan, he likes to head south in the winter months, driving the truck, and hauling one of the nice cars behind it. With the dmax, he could just hook up the big trailer, and go. Now with the 6.0L truck, theres always some discussion about the weather, will he get caught in a storm, with one of the nice cars on the open trailer.

His next truck will be a dmax, that 6.0L runs nice, but it does not like to haul.

Your not going to get Duramax owners to tell you a 5.3L 1500 or a 6.0L 2500 will tow better and get better mileage than a 6.6L Duramax. Thats impossible. But they will tow what you got and they will do what you want in a daily driver. Thats the bottom line.

Its as simple as whether you want to invest the money in repairs...and the time. OR if you want to go camping a few times now...and just drive drive drive down the road with no headaches.

I get it when people say its "paid off" and all they have to do is upkeep at that point...which is cheaper than a new vehicle. But I'd hardly call the upkeep on a high mileage LB7 (and Chevy rust) cheap by any means. A new Duramax HD2500 will be $45,000...even $55,000. So if your truck needed $35,000 worth of parts/labor...you could still say its far less than a new truck.

Simply needing a new set of glow plugs could mean 2 weeks downtime and several thousand dollars if things go wrong. A new set of injectors (which everyone will need) will run $1500-2000 minimum just for reman parts only and no labor...if everything else is fine. And injector pump...well you get the point. And more likely than not...everyone will eventually be forced to spend this kind of money as you approach 200K miles.

This kind of investment will far exceed the trucks market value at some point. Which it totally fine for some. If I liked a vehicle enough...I'd not have a problem with this. Just depends how you look at a vehicle...as your baby...or a tool to do business with.

I'm impressed by all of you that believe that fixing what you have is a better deal than more payments - GOOD SHOW.

The OP is making a good argument for the idea of "When it breaks, fix it". In other words, keep up the running repairs as needed. That way you'll only need to fix one thing at a time instead of "needs ABS, brakes, tires, windshield, muffler bearings, etc. etc."

I am putting away money so that I can pay for 8 injectors when the time comes.

I'm impressed by all of you that believe that fixing what you have is a better deal than more payments - GOOD SHOW.

The OP is making a good argument for the idea of "When it breaks, fix it". In other words, keep up the running repairs as needed. That way you'll only need to fix one thing at a time instead of "needs ABS, brakes, tires, windshield, muffler bearings, etc. etc."

I am putting away money so that I can pay for 8 injectors when the time comes.

Ha ha, wow, ballsy statement.....actually pretty funny indeed though, but may have forgot muffler bearings, but I was sure to top off the blinker fluid.

All in the last 25K miles replaced cracked windshield (rock from semi), brakes all around + fluid swap, tranny fluid amsoil drain/fill, kennedy lift pump, nicktane fuel filter adaptor + 1micron filter and one passenger rear axle seal. Mostly chasing lose of prime, but pretty sure I now know the reason, or will if I decide to fix this issue too.

I love this truck and that's why I am asking the general thoughts on this board. Lots of knowledge and respect here, and the reason I bought a diesel was for longevity. I have no problem doing this myself the more I look at it, its just the idea of having to tear back into it in the next 2yrs until it's paid off.

I have probably had more problems with my truck than any here, or close to it and i wont get rid of it because i know my hands fixed every one of them and i know its done right plus i can fix them.

Truck had 3 sets of injectors and a pump before i bought it.
I replaced all 4 calipers because 2 locked up as well as pads rotors $500 or so
both hubs went this winter $380
BOTH headgaskets were blown when i replaced them $1200 (not including head milling)
water pump - $300
brake lines went - $300 for stainless steel everywhere
starter - $280
window motor - $90
both rear rims cracked (i saw this last weekend) - $450 (for 4 new rims)
carrier bearing went - $200 for shop to replace and balance ds
5 Belt tensioners each of which broke while towing 10,000lbs plus - $50 each
Idler pulley plus belt - $80
gator back belt because gm belts squeak - $45
fuel lines rusted out, fuel cooler is rusting out (replacing with aluminum lines and transmission cooler)
transfercase pump rubbed hole in case, i patched for now will be $900 or so to rebuild
roof lights are leaking into cab, rockers are rusting out, clear is starting to peel on roof.
front axle is now leaking at output shafts

The truck gets its fuel filter religiously changed every other oil change, every oil change is mobil delvac and a K&N filter, all fluids are changed everywhere at the correct intervals as well as trans filter.

I take great care of it but these trucks do have alot that goes wrong with them. I will still keep this truck until it blows up because its paid for and because i know ALL of the repairs i did were done right.

I did get so frustrated when i had blown head gaskets that i was going to swap a gas engine in it. It would have been cheaper, i had a spare, and i was tired of all the duramax problems. I am glad i didnt know. Even if i do have to put injectors in it every 4 years it will be worth it to me.

I totally understand loving a Duramax. At work I drive a 2000 PowerStroke. Compared to my Dmax, it's a dinosaur.

I haven't seen anything that I would rather have than my 2003 ... at any price. Well, maybe a DynaCoach. For the cost of one of those, I can keep my Dmax in showroom condition forever.

I think part of the reason we hold on to LB7s is no EGR, no vacuum pump, no VVT turbo and no particulate trap. No payments is a big plus too.

6.0's don't crack heads. Just because someone heard of a fluke doesnt mean its a "huge problem". My father has been working at a GMC dealership since 1985. He has seen these engines since day 1. They do have problems with the exhaust manifolds that lead to broken bolts. The manifolds must be removed, planned, and broken bolts extracted. He has never seen a cracked head. Never ever. Talking about regular dd trucks here. Not tuned up trucks that are beaten on every day. Wont tow well? His pulls 10k race trailer just fine (7-8mpg though). I know because I used it before I had my dmax. Dont get me wrong. Im all for the dmax, but the 6.0's are hard to beat IMO

I have probably had more problems with my truck than any here, or close to it and i wont get rid of it because i know my hands fixed every one of them and i know its done right plus i can fix them.

Truck had 3 sets of injectors and a pump before i bought it.
I replaced all 4 calipers because 2 locked up as well as pads rotors $500 or so
both hubs went this winter $380
BOTH headgaskets were blown when i replaced them $1200 (not including head milling)
water pump - $300
brake lines went - $300 for stainless steel everywhere
starter - $280
window motor - $90
both rear rims cracked (i saw this last weekend) - $450 (for 4 new rims)
carrier bearing went - $200 for shop to replace and balance ds
5 Belt tensioners each of which broke while towing 10,000lbs plus - $50 each
Idler pulley plus belt - $80
gator back belt because gm belts squeak - $45
fuel lines rusted out, fuel cooler is rusting out (replacing with aluminum lines and transmission cooler)
transfercase pump rubbed hole in case, i patched for now will be $900 or so to rebuild
roof lights are leaking into cab, rockers are rusting out, clear is starting to peel on roof.
front axle is now leaking at output shafts

The truck gets its fuel filter religiously changed every other oil change, every oil change is mobil delvac and a K&N filter, all fluids are changed everywhere at the correct intervals as well as trans filter.

I take great care of it but these trucks do have alot that goes wrong with them. I will still keep this truck until it blows up because its paid for and because i know ALL of the repairs i did were done right.

I did get so frustrated when i had blown head gaskets that i was going to swap a gas engine in it. It would have been cheaper, i had a spare, and i was tired of all the duramax problems. I am glad i didnt know. Even if i do have to put injectors in it every 4 years it will be worth it to me.

I hear ya. I have replaced 90% of what you have listed above (minus HG's), but before the last 25K miles, that is why this is so hard for me. I know everything about this truck, it does more than I thought it would mpg wise (again 19.4 coming back from MO), and tows the camper like a dream.....this is worse than changing wives.

6.0's don't crack heads. Just because someone heard of a fluke doesnt mean its a "huge problem". My father has been working at a GMC dealership since 1985. He has seen these engines since day 1. They do have problems with the exhaust manifolds that lead to broken bolts. The manifolds must be removed, planned, and broken bolts extracted. He has never seen a cracked head. Never ever. Talking about regular dd trucks here. Not tuned up trucks that are beaten on every day. Wont tow well? His pulls 10k race trailer just fine (7-8mpg though). I know because I used it before I had my dmax. Dont get me wrong. Im all for the dmax, but the 6.0's are hard to beat IMO

Yes, almost all (4.8/5.3/6.0) do break the rear bolt, no matter the milage or engines use.

If you do end up switching to a 1500. I suggest looking at 2009 and newer. That is when the MYC (6 speed 6L80) became standard on most of the half ton trucks behind the 5.3L. A lot of guys around here that have switched from the 4 spd to the 6 spd have been impressed by the better towing performance and better fuel economy. Also all the GMT900 trucks have AFM (active fuel management) which shuts off 4 cyl when cruising/steady state which helps a little (10%) as well.

Yes, almost all (4.8/5.3/6.0) do break the rear bolt, no matter the milage or engines use.

If you do end up switching to a 1500. I suggest looking at 2009 and newer. That is when the MYC (6 speed 6L80) became standard on most of the half ton trucks behind the 5.3L. A lot of guys around here that have switched from the 4 spd to the 6 spd have been impressed by the better towing performance and better fuel economy. Also all the GMT900 trucks have AFM (active fuel management) which shuts off 4 cyl when cruising/steady state which helps a little (10%) as well.

Great information, thank you. I have a buddy that just got rid of his 2008 1500, and he had nothing but good to say about it after 40K miles. Said the active fuel managment worked well on the highway, and the power was impressive for a 1500 he thought.

Guys, all of your input is greatly appreciated, and I encourage this thread to continue because there are lots of guys out there in the position. I love this truck, but a newer one looks like it will fit me best. I will be pursuing this option, but if it doesn't work out, then I'll update and let you know how the fixing of this girl goes. It's been a great 4.5 yrs/ 82K miles so far:D

.....this is worse than changing wives.

Now thats some funny stuff, right there!!!!

My wife refers to my Dmax, as my "Black Mistress". The Dmax is probably more expensive:eek::eek:

The rust coming through the cab corners and rockers. You might as well say the newer ones will rust out eventually. Thats just a givin on any of them. Some worse that others. Injectors..I just started last night taking the vavle covers off. Motor is makin oil. Im not a mechanic but I hate paying people to do stuff I can do..that and I know what/how its been done. This is the 1st duramax and ive said i wont go back to a gas truck. Minus the daily driver (yota). Good luck

Well I was in the same boat as you on Monday. I decided to replace all 8 injectors and fuel lines. Total at the dealer is going to be around $4300. When I looked at spending another 5 years paying for a truck I decided to fix my after all it is paid for. So if I get another year out of it I am money ahead in my mind.

Good luck on your coming up with an answer. What ever you do don't second guess yourself just.


2002 CC SB 183,000 miles (2nd set of injectors)

Brought my signature truck home today w/set of 'NEW' injectors installed not by a dealer but probably one of the very best shops in the region for about dealer pricing. Added additional filtration as well as lift pump to help longevity ~ I don't race. Has 48K miles.

Looked at trading in for new truck but being in the 'promised land', I'd have to set aside >$100 a month just for annual registration ~ not cheap here, not to mention loan payments, insurance on a new/expensive vehicle, decided to carpe diem and enjoy what I have paid for instead of supporting the bank.

Had the transmission build out of the way, now injectors and yep, EFI was delivered today ~ and the truck is >8yrs old but comfortable w/my decision.

Brought my signature truck home today w/set of 'NEW' injectors installed not by a dealer but probably one of the very best shops in the region for about dealer pricing. Added additional filtration as well as lift pump to help longevity ~ I don't race. Has 48K miles.

Looked at trading in for new truck but being in the 'promised land', I'd have to set aside >$100 a month just for annual registration ~ not cheap here, not to mention loan payments, insurance on a new/expensive vehicle, decided to carpe diem and enjoy what I have paid for instead of supporting the bank.

Had the transmission build out of the way, now injectors and yep, EFI was delivered today ~ and the truck is >8yrs old but comfortable w/my decision.

Well, after driving a new 1500...I am keeping her:D

She goes in for her 2hr injector/pump test on Monday at 8am...should be interesting to see what they come up with. I called around the local dealerships to see if anyone had a Master Diesel Tech, and low and behold there is one, so that's where she is going.

I have to disconnect the power to the Kennedy pump, and may have to take off the Nicktane adaptor and 1micron filter so they can't say it screwed with their flow charts...any input? Yes, the banks will be disconnected and tied up out of the way.