Hey guys,

I'm new to this site, and thought I would ask for your opinions. I have a '95 2500, with the L56 engine, and 145,000Km's. I've owned the truck for 3 years, and (knock on wood), I've had no real problems with it. I tow a 6000lb travel trailer, and that's about as hard as it works. I also do the routine maintenance, and baby it when I can.

My question is this. My wife and I are looking at taking a big trip next year, and have been throwing around the idea of getting a "new" truck. We've been looking at a Dmax...but I/we aren't real keen on the payments the bank would be looking for. My truck is going to be paid off next year...so instead of spending money on a new vehicle...we'd actually be free and clear of any car payments.

I know that's a good idea...but what I'm wondering, is whether or not my 11 year old truck is worth spending 2 - 3K on performance mods? I'd be looking at a free flowing exhaust, front to back...PMD heat sync kit...gauges...the '97 cooling upgrades including the bigger fan and HD clutch...deep tranny pan...and possibly a shift enhancer and performance chip.

My hope is to make it a better tow vehicle...but if I did these mods, I'd be keeping the truck 'till the wheels fell off. I would be keeping the same travel trailer, so I'm not worried about boosting it's performance and then strapping a heavier weight to it.

So...would it be a sound financial investment to continue running this truck, and spend that kind of money on upgrades? Or is looking at other trucks the route to take?

Thanks,
Jamie

So...would it be a sound financial investment to continue running this truck, and spend that kind of money on upgrades?
Thanks,
Jamie
Do it!!!!!!!!!:ro)

I went thru the same mental debate, and ended up buying my '94 6.5 after my '98 gasser gave up the ghost. Even after spending the coin to do the upgrades - see sig line - I am money ahead, and I'd do it again. I've read some of the 'horror' stories the DMax guys are writing. In every case it seems like the dollar signs keep compounding.

So, IMHO, spend the time and money to 'right' your 6.5. While you're at it, lose the L56 intake and PCM and find one from a L65 (non-egr).

I went from a 1993 6.5 truck that was paid off and I thought I wanted a new truck so I bopught me a '02 Dmax. The truck was awesome and I loved it. But, I also had a truck payment that would make 2 house payments. So, i sold it and got my current 97' 6.5 and paid it off. There is no feeling like having no car payment. I wish I still had my '93 that I traded in. Anyway, stick with your truck and even if you need to sink a couple grand into it, it still beats a $900 truck payment.

In the year and a half I had my D,max....I figured I lost over $12,000 in depreciation, etc. I bought it for $43,000 and sold it for $34,000.

Another option I could have done was to refinance it, but, I would still be making payments to this day. My vote would be to keep your truck and have some fun fixing it up. Just my 2 cents.

I'm also of the clan that believes the only good car payment is NO car payment. I own my 95 6.5 Burb, 99 Tahoe, and a 92 Grand Prix free and clear. I haven't made car payments on a vehicle in close to 10 years, and I don't ever plan on doing it again.

I'd rather own an older vehicle than borrow a newer one from the bank. Mortgage payments are enough for me.

I get to drive the new cars and trucks at work, so there's no real thrill for me in driving them anyways.

Jamie welcome to the site now that you are here visit welcome note & FAQ stickys at top of this forum.

In the FAQs sticky, there is a link there that offers additional info on buying a Diesel truck as well as the ones above with been there done that sage advise,

Thanks for the input guys...this is exactly what I'm looking for. I've been "here" for the last couple of weeks...reading all the different posts in the different sections...and I'm blown away by the wealth of knowledge contained within this community.

I appreciate any input you guys have to offer!

Tks,

Jamie

And a set of D-Max injectors is $3000 :eek:

I'd think you'd be better off keeping your truck and doing the mods. You know what you've got with it, you're still low on mileage and can drive it for another 10 years or so, it's already a great truck and it will be awesome with the mods on it.

But if you trade it in, consider a Cummins and the advantage of a manual tranny.

And a set of D-Max injectors is $3000 :eek:
Are you serious???????

Yup they are proud of everthing that is DMAX related, through serious searching maybe somewhat cheaper, but not much, my favorite people are former 6.5 owners that have moved on to DMAX leaves tons of used but good parts out there for us 6.5 hangers on to choose from

Are you serious???????

Below is from Kennedy Diesels site



Item Name: NEW HP injectors for Duramax - set of 8Category:Duramax PerformanceSub-Category:Injectors - Dmax performancePrice:$3,000.00No muss, no fuss, these are NEW injectors with increased fuel capacity. Basically the same setup as the std HP injectors, only we provide NEW injectors and you send me your cores. Different performance levels available based upon your needs.
"I will be keeping a limited supply on hand. Typically 50 HP units will be most readily available due to popularity. Special orders can take 4-6 weeks so plan ahead!" - JK


Thats what I paid for my running truck

I think I'll keep my 6.5l thank you very much

DMax is a wonderful product from all reports. Payments and parts are a bit much. I personally own my vehicles, and like the freedom which is created from a "no payment" situation. Here's my suggestion:
If you are going to be doing heavy towing on your trip. Do the upgrades to your engine to insure better flow, good cooling, etc. You don't need to have "performance" mod's that will turn it into a dragster. Do what you need to make it a happier running engine. Spend carefully and invest for the future. You may not want to "overinvest" more than what the truck is worth, but something that will pay off in longer engine life.

Then tuck some away each month for the "replacement" vehicle down the road. That money can either be spent on your current rig in case of catestrophic failure, or for a new set of wheels altogether.

Treat your 6.5 well, and it *should* return the favor. Remember, it's mechanical, and will have it's problems. But understand it, become one with it, listen to it's longings . . . .

Borrowing is a bad feeling looming over your head always. Freedom from debt is great. I advise against debt unless absolutely necessary.

Thanks again for all the input guys...it's much appreciated!

I believe we're going to keep the truck, and do the things I want in order to make it a better...longer living...tow vehicle. I'm not interested in going after mods that will produce more speed, or tear things up...I just want to make life easier on it when I do put it to work...and maybe a performance chip to try and get a bit more torque out of her.

Has anyone dealt with SSDieselSupply? Would their performance chip be a better idea than Heath's Max-E-Tork?

Jamie

Do a search this forum on reflash lots of discussion/opinion one different ones, the thing about mods they only become negative if you abuse them, the same that nets more speed if used sanely actually enhance longevity IMO, keep boost at reasonable level 10 psi boost will do 90% of any work you will need to do, I can run more but it's hard on the truck running sustained that way. I'll get a wild hair and goose it just to, remind me I've got a little more under the hood or if I need to dust a ricer or at least get his attention. If you follow the more power thread in FAQs you will get performance and towing grunt when needed and safe if used responsibly.

I prefer the Heath one myself, that said I have not run the latest offering from others, 3 programs out there Z industries which is what I started with, it went back wasn't much improvement over a stock F PCM then maybe they have done some retweaking since 2000, Westers, and Heath. Heaths is advertised as a towing upgrade, from what I read Westers customers are happy with theirs. I question 80 Hp in a PCM only upgrade, mighty tall claim. Several sell Westers, SS Diesel is recent comer many report good relations with his products, John Kennedy sells same PCM tune I throw my recommendation his way if that is the one you think you want to try, as he is a site supporting vendor. Again use the search feature to get others ideas as well, self education is your best tool to keeping these trucks up and running the longest.

We have a pretty good core of been there done that in our midst, make the best of it, tons more info than what you see in just the active threads, you can search out to day one of the site just need to toggle the search criteria "knob".

On re-read I saw in your sig (see why I wig out on havig this bit of info without it you can go wrong way with your advise) you are a 95 which is OBD I, had my OBDII brain engaged talking reflash, yours takes just a chip not a PCM swap, there was a dyno comparison last year JK vs Heath chip, in that dyno the advantage was JK, that said there was an earlier Heath chip, newest one has been improved using similar profiles in OBDII program, I have no idea in chip world who does those tunes for the various vendors, what we need is a dyno day with all the different offerings out there on same truck same dyno, dyno time does not come cheap unless a dyno day is going on and dyno owners discounts as he has 30 trucks running that day, but then little time for R&D runs. Now if a supporting vendor who owns a dyno wanted to say maybe offer up some R&D dyno time we could maybe answer this question ahem JK you know anybody with a dyno?

Basicallly anything out there is a pretty good improvement over the General, but remember they knew the design limits, running it harder means shortened life so they programmed the PCM or Chip to give mild power and them fewer warranty claims by staying conservative on power envelope.

Remeber the old addage "no substitute for displacement" same with Diesels, 6.2s are great engines short on power but are dependable when taken care of, 6.5 is an upgraded 6.2, add a turbo to a 6.5 and you go from mild to medium power but it does have limits, the turbo is a substitute for the displacement, but you still have a light duty Diesel by design.

Want to pull more, get a bigger engine, or one that was designed from begining for more power, but engine is only part of the equation will the rest of the drivetrain handle this new power don't fergit trans will need tweaking, more power is more heat, cooling system will need tweaking, more power = more fuel, fuel delivery needs tweaking, IMO where folks run into problems is failing to take a systems approach to the more power quest each plus has a negative, a balance to be maintained. 400 Hp 6.5s exist but how long do they last. Guar-on-tee you this a stock engine won't do it without doing some serious beefing up werk.

DMAX is great engine plus drive line has been upgraded as well lot of lessons into it from GM 5.7, 6.2, 6.5 N/A & 6.5TD, Cummins was a over the road engine derated to be put in a pickup, same with a P Stroke I think, you can derate and go back up easier, than you can by trying to push a engine past it's design limit.

Me I can't fathom the thought of a Ferd nor a Dodge for a truck but hey that's me; I could see someday putting a Cummins in my GMC if I had a lot of extra time on my hands to do the mods. I don't know why people buy Ferd some genetic defect I guess :D , but ask any Dodge owner to be truthful & you will find that they bought for the engine & not the truck is came in necessarily.

I'm also of the clan that believes the only good car payment is NO car payment. I own my 95 6.5 Burb, 99 Tahoe, and a 92 Grand Prix free and clear. I haven't made car payments on a vehicle in close to 10 years, and I don't ever plan on doing it again.

I'd rather own an older vehicle than borrow a newer one from the bank. Mortgage payments are enough for me.

I get to drive the new cars and trucks at work, so there's no real thrill for me in driving them anyways.

I currently insure: '64 Dodge Dart, '66 Triumph 650 Bonneville M/C, '76 Nova 6 cyl, '76 Nova 350, '78 98 Regency 5.7D, '80 98 Regency 5.7D, '81 K5 Jimmy, '82 K2500 6.2D, '84 K2500 6.2D Suburban and two '88 Buick Park Avenues.

Not insured, but alive and well: '55 John Deere Model 40, '63 J.D. 110, '67 J.D. 140, '68 Rupp Roadster Mini-Bike, '79 Honda MT 125 Elsinore, '81 Honda XR 80, '68 Firebird Race Car (12.80 @ 107) and a '93 Jr. Dragster Race Car.

Total value of the whole pile wouldn't make a good down payment on a new truck but I never, repeat, Never have to walk! Insurance is less than half a payment on a new truck. I drive a new truck at work. Who cares!
;)

I say keep the truck, theres nothing like the mid 90's smooth body style. My opinion, its the best one out there. Its also more of a :grd: truck!