Has anyone tried to make or have seen an adaptor that will screw into the oem filter head? It could just be a fitting with two hoses on it that could be routed to a better filter? This would solve some of the warranty issues. When you take it in, just unscrew the adaptor and remove the better filter. Then just reinstall the oem filter.

Just a curious thought.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/3D6_DSCN0332.jpg
Well, a fellow that call himself "Corndog" at:


http://www.oldmacksrus.com


Made up this prototype to mount a Cat filter cartridge to the OEM head. Don't know how it worked out, but he did say that the center square threads for the OEM mount were difficult to cut.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/2Z9_adapter1.jpg


edited for better viewing... hootEdited by: hoot

Would be very interested in one of these! I would love to hear how it worked out?????


Justin

I would buy one of those adapters and I know alot of other people that would to. If any one knows of some for sale send the link my way. Thanks

Cdhd2001,


Just asked the same thing on another post. You beat me to the punch. Great idea.

Let's all know if someone finds out the avaiablity of this prototype. This looks like it could be the next big thing. Real Trucks don't have spark plugs, Drive ONhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

Perhaps when we get that STRAP HANGIN' Rick (Victory Red) Incorporated, he'll take on another project???http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


I really, really like this idea.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

That proto type looks like it could benifit from a nice soapy bath in a media tumbler. Then I would put it on my truck.

I just got done making one for a64pilot. I am waiting for him to return home so I can mail it out to him. I have all the measurements down so if it works, I will probably make a few more. But right now I am getting ready to go over to Thailand till early March. When I get back I will post a message for all who are interested and see if I can make enough for all. Does anyone know if you can buy that rubber seal that goes inside the OEM filter, or would you have to buy a new filter to get it? I guess if you used the adapter when you take the OEM filter out you could just take the seal out of it and if you ever do take your vehicle in for work you could just swap it out again. I will take a picture of it tonight at work and try to post it tomorrow. It looks similar to the one above. Just curious, how many people would be interested in an adapter, just to give me an idea of how much material I will need to buy. I am guessing the purchase cost would be around $50 each plus shipping. The adapter I made fits the Racor filter. I am still trying to make a bottom cap for using the OEM WIF sensor. All the ones I found do not fit the threads of the OEM sensor. I know you can buy a WIF sensor that fits the Racor filter cup but would it plug into the factory wiring harness? Would it be worth my time to make this to or just get the see thru plastic one from Racor with their sensor?


Jeff

Corndog was a victim of spoken liability issues,same as VR .... Scared him off I think ,he had a good idea .... Glad to see VR snubbed his critics and purged ahead ....





Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

I'd be interested in purchasing one.

hoot

I would be interested in one too! Let us know!


Justin

ditto, http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Roger

if you put in an aftermarket filter, what do you do with the wif sensor ? AkDually61

What about the tit in the center that opend the spring loaded ball? Are you guys going to take the ball out or come up with something to open it. I worked on the samething over a year ago and the center ball is why I stopped.

Greg

Ill pay 100 for the first one........

Ditto,


Terrain Twister

Count me in!!

Sign me up!

SPICER is in too, but a WIF sensor is a must.....SPICERhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif

AkDually61, I am working that issue now. I am trying to find a cap that I can alter to still work with the OEM WIF sensor. If I cannot find one I will make one eventually.


LanduytG, what spring loaded ball are you referring to? If I am overlooking something please let me know before I get a bunch made up.


Jeff

Does anyone know if the racor WIF sensors will plug right in to the OEM wiring harness?


Jeff

Does anyone know if the racor WIF sensors will plug right in to the OEM wiring harness?


Jeff

That's a toughy. The OEM sensor uses some type of "hall effect" float that rides up a center shaft. Not sure what level signal it produces. You would need to know how the two sensors compare electrically.

I'm in for one as well.

I'll take one fo shizzle my nizzle!

That's a toughy. The OEM sensor uses some type of "hall effect" float that rides up a center shaft. Not sure what level signal it produces. You would need to know how the two sensors compare electrically.


You sure it's "hall effect" hoot? I thought it was just a ring magnet and a reed switch - if that's the case, it would just be an "open/closed" switch, although I'm sure the wiring/connector will have to be adapted since there's heater power in the factory connection, too.

acehi, LanduytG said:


What about the tit in the center that opend the spring loaded ball? Are you guys going to take the ball out or come up with something to open it. I worked on the samething over a year ago and the center ball is why I stopped.



He is making reference to the OE filter mount. If you look at the OUT port on the OE filter mount from the underside (through the wheelwell) there is a small (plastic?) ball that must act as a checkvalve. It is dead center in the middle of the mount. It keeps fuel from spilling out while the filter is being changed......The OE filter has a small x-shaped nipple in the center that protrudes up. It's purpose is to depress the ball and open the fuel flow into the filter. Without it there would be no fuel flow into the filter. SPICER

That's a toughy. The OEM sensor uses some type of "hall effect" float that rides up a center shaft. Not sure what level signal it produces. You would need to know how the two sensors compare electrically.


You sure it's "hall effect" hoot? I thought it was just a ring magnet and a reed switch - if that's the case, it would just be an "open/closed" switch, although I'm sure the wiring/connector will have to be adapted since there's heater power in the factory connection, too.

Tom you could be right and if so that makes it an on/off circuit like you said.

Count me in as well.

That's a toughy. The OEM sensor uses some type of "hall effect" float that rides up a center shaft. Not sure what level signal it produces. You would need to know how the two sensors compare electrically.



You sure it's "hall effect" hoot? I thought it was just a ring magnet and a reed switch - if that's the case, it would just be an "open/closed" switch, although I'm sure the wiring/connector will have to be adapted since there's heater power in the factory connection, too.




Tom you could be right and if so that makes it an on/off circuit like you said.


I think the heater is in the filter head and electrically isolated from the WIF sensor. If I'm right then the WIF wouldn't keep the heater from functioning. Question is what happens if the WIF isn't connected, will it trip a MIL light? I'm betting it won't, I think it's a normally open circuit, but I'm away from my truck and can't verify that.


BTW, Is there anybody out there that has gotten the water in fuel warning on their Dmax?


Oh yeah I'd also bet that the check valves only real purpose is to keep the fuel from draining back into the tank on filter change and make priming easier. If it were removed then removing the fuel cap to ensure there's no pressure in the tank (air) and then replacing the filter should only take more pumps to reprime the filter, how many more I have no idea, but I'm willing to find out.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif Edited by: a64pilot

a64pilot, I got the WIF warning, It spells out "WATER IN FUEL" on the DIC. Mine happenend right after the install of a new fuel filter. I held the filter upside down while I put 10 rare earth magnets around the outside of the can. I then turned it right-side up and installed it. I think the magnetic field held the WIF sensor's float at the top and when I started the truck it tripped the sensor. I opened the drain and nothing but fuel, so I took the magnets off and no WIF warning. Put magnets back on and all is wellhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif. SPICER

SPICER, In 20 years or so I've never had water in my fuel. I got it in a 574 international tractor and thankfully it did no damage. I'm willing to do without the WIF until an adapter or replacement can be figured out. Maybe the Racor one can simply be wired in? At least I could find out if this adapter idea is as viable as I think it is.


BTW I know how damaging water can be in a low pressure system, I can only imagine how bad it would be in ours.


ON edit, if those magnets could cause a false triggering of the WIF, could they also keep it from illuminating if water were present?Edited by: a64pilot

The WIF sensor is a basic sliding float on a rod. The float is slightly more dense than diesel fuel and is slightly less dense than water. If the bottom of the filter fills with water, the float will rise. There is a little tab of metal at the top of the float. When that tab hits the top of the rod it hits a sensor and triggers the message.....


The float was all the way up to the top because I was holding the new filter with the WIF sensor(and water drain assembly) upside down. When I put the magnets on the can with it upside down I am thinking that the VERY STRONG rare earth magnets some how held the float suspended. So to answer your question I'm not surehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif. It is obvious that these very strong magnets are interfereing with the sensor to a point, but IIRC I was still able to hear the float slide up and down with the magnets on the can. I will try it again at the next filter change.


I for one would love to see a better filter on the OE mount. I just don't think I would want to do it without water sensor protection. But then again I may not have it now with all those magnetshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifSPICER

Count me in for one too!

WOW, I guess I will need to do buy a lot more material then I thought.


With the issue about the spring loaded ball. I will have to pull mine apart and do some measuring to see if that part in the OEM filter actually does open that ball. I am guessing that it does NOT open the ball. This is why I am thinking that. The fuel enters the filter on the outer edges of the filter, this in turn allows any water to run down the sides to the bottom of the filter, thus allowing the WIF sensor to work. Then the actual fuel runs thru the filtering elements and goes up the center port. The fuel pump would be enough to open that check valve and allow the fuel to flow thru. My reasoning behind this is the fact that once you screw the new filter on, if that ball was to open all the fuel from that line (which is between the filter and injectors) would backflow into the filter. This would put air in that line, which is a bad thing. Then after you change the filter you open up the bleeder screw and pump it till nothing but fuel comes out. Then you start the truck and let it run. And like someone said earlier, the check valve does keep the fuel from running out as your changing the filter. However, I will pull mine apart and make a few measurements just to be sure. I do not want to make a bunch of these and none of them work from something simple like this. Thanks for the heads up.


Jeff

Spicer,


Just curious…http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif What size magnets did you use? I'm planning on sticking a few rare earth magnets inside my OilGuard element at the next oil change and I thought I might "sprinkle" a few on my fuel filters as well – maybe even the full flow oil filter. I looked at the various NeFeB rare earth magnets available from WonderMagnets.com (http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=list&category=Magnets_and_ Magnetism%3BPermanent_Magnets) but I can’t make up my mind on which ones to get. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif Also, did you consider putting the magnets inside the bottom of OEM fuel filter? Seems like direct contact with the fuel would be even more effective but also more chance of disrupting the WIF sensor. Appreciate any thoughts on this… http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifEdited by: jbplock

jbplock, The ones I chose were apx. 2"x5/8"x1/8". They are the NeFeB rare earth. They have a chrome-looking finish and stick together like glue!!! These were $1.95 each at a local American Science and Surplus store. I put 10 on the outside of the fuel filter can, and as flimsy as this can is I am sure it will work fine, I don't want to take a chance inside the can with these....Maybe with smaller ones but I still don't think it is needed.


The size mentioned above fits very nicely inside of the oilguard can. Although I see no harm in this, I also see little benefit. I have been using an AVLube magnetic oil drain plug and it has never collected debris. Must be little ferrous metal in there. I also tried to detect the magnetic field on the outside of my oilguard filter can after installing the magnets. Nothing!!!! This is a heavy-duty can!!!


Also on the fuel filter can, use a couple strips of duct tape to hold them in place.


Ultimately I think these do more good on the fuel filter can than in the oil system...SPICER

Well, did some manual research and the WIF sensor shows as a normally-open switch in the schematics. There's no clear discussion of it's actual operation other than "when it senses water"http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


Hoot, the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are both hall-effect.

Your gonna need to make bunch and get a patent while your at it


ed

Jeff
What you said about the ball not being pushed up by the filter is reasonable but I am sure you will find it different than that. But good luck and I hope you can get it to work out. Another thing is if you use a Racor R60 filter you will find that you will have to space the OEM mount out a bit to keep the filter from hitting on the valve cover. What you could do is make ot to work with a Cat 1R-0750 filter. These filters are small in dia.

Greg

Hall effect is no big deal. The end result is the same as any other sensor. 0 or 5 volts. Open or close. You just need to make sure you no what signal the computer is looking for. For example if the computer needs to see 5 volts to trigger the light on the dash board then you need to make sure your new sensor shows 5 volts when floating. There could also be an impedance issue. That would require an addition of a resistor inline. Should not be very complicate once you learn what the circuit is looking for. I am open to discussion on the electronics part of it. Thanks for helping us come up with a common sense solution to a Tazmanian Devil like problem. You know all teeth and screams. No real beef. You can fit those noisy little burgers under your shoe.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

The work I have done with the Dmax filter system leads me to beleive that the RTacor sensor could takes its place. If you unhook the OEM sensor and short the 2 wires the light in the dash will come on. Now if you take the Racor sensor and hook it to the OEM wires and put the sensor in water the dash light will come on. But that is with tap water. But the condensation in the tank might not have enough conductivity to do that. I did not try it with distilled water.

Greg

I always figured the stock float worked buy floating up the center shaft. This then caused the output to change. Did not think it had anything to do with water conductivity?

Add me to the list. Sounds like another "must have". The extra effort to insure that the WIF sensor and “check valve” work properly is worth the wait, extra cost and greatly appreciated.

I'll buy one as well. Saves me from installing an aftermarket kit so I'm all for it.


Steve

I would definately be in for one also.....

What about the optional Racor heater or is the OEM heater in the head only (head stays intact)

jbplock, The ones I chose were apx. 2"x5/8"x1/8"... They are the NeFeB rare earth. They have a chrome-looking finish and stick together like glue!!! These were $1.95 each at a local American Science and Surplus store....


....The size mentioned above fits very nicely inside of the oilguard can....


SPICER,


Thanks for the info!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif I'll have to look for one of those stores...


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gifEdited by: jbplock

What about the optional Racor heater or is the OEM heater in the head only (head stays intact)


Hoot, pretty sure it's in the head. Kinda think Greg has the WIF nailed, probably just a simple float switch (no magic). Anybody, would a 90 series Racor fit? thinking you would want as large a filter as possible.

The heater will stay in the stock head. Any filter with a water sensor in the bottom should work. You might just have to build a short adapter to go between the factory plug and the connector on the new filter. Make sure the new filter does not come in contact with the exaust manifold. You need at least 1 " of air space for cooling and wiring. Edited by: Bronco

Jeff


I'm in for two,just make it worth your while.I made a set of pipes for a friends Harley,next thing you know I'm making them for everyone.I got totaly overwhelmed with all of it,& wasn't making crap on them.Don't get rushed.Good luck.

Put me down for one also. Take your time and get it right, don't let anyone rush you. VR took his time with the straps, and man was it worth the wait!


Pepperidge

I'm in for one, too. Post it when you're ready.

I think this would be great, put me down for one, my real concern is will the heater work to keep the fuel from gelling at the filter, being a bigger filter. Here in North Dakota –25 F is not all that uncommon.

Just an idea....the OE filter does not have a dirty-side bleeder, only a clean-side bleeder. Would it be possible to incorporate a dirty-side bleeder into the adapter? Would this bleeder work to purge the air out of the filter using the OE primer like the JK Mega filter?
When there is a good lift pump kit sold I will probably do it, I don't like the idea of half of my filter media going unused.....SPICER

Count me in http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Apon further inspection of my engine it appears that a longer filter would come in direct contact with the valve cover? Would the filter adapter include an offset towards the passenger fender well?


In another thread it was mentioned Racor changed there filter rating from 7 microns down to 2 microns. I do not know about the effiecancy of this 2 micron rating or the accuracy? I am going to try and contact them.

As I mentioned in and earlier post you will have to space the OEM mount out so you can use the R45, R60 or R90. This filters a 4.5 inches in dia and by the time you get the adpter on the filter they will be long and hit the valve cover. I have been there and done this already. It could be done but not as easy as some might think. I hope someone gets it to work without a lot of trouble.





Greg

Greg thanks for playing along. As a new user to the site I have noticed there are learning curves for all of us. It is kind of funny. All users that come online at the same time seem to be thinking/talking about the same thing. We all advance together. The old timers probally just laugh. There is just to many post and not enough interaction to learn all this stuff on your own time. Plus it just wouldn't be as fun.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I would like to sign up for an adapter. For $50 it could be a very good deal, assuming that the glitches mentioned in this thread are figured. If not, well being a beta tester isn't new to me http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

Put me down for one also.....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif GM needs to start talking to D-max owners like you guys to fix their engineering problems.....

Ok, here are some pictures of the adapter I made. I have used the R90S filter when I made this. I am going to go down and get the R60 series filter and see if it will work on it as well. If it does, that would be even better. I am still searching to see if there is a bottom cap that is made that I can alter in some way to utilize the OEM WIF sensor. Will keep you posted. Again, I won't be able to manufacture any of these until after I get back from Thailand in March. Now to try and figure out how to add a picture. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/24B_MVC-050S.JPG

And another.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/D6Z_MVC-049S.JPG

and another





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/BBD_MVC-048S.JPG

Looks great. I'm in if you get them together in March or beyond. Thailand may be a bit warmer than Alaska, but I think the hunting will be lacking.

Jeff





One other thing did you see that the thread is not standard that it is flat on the bottom side? One more thing the nipple out the center looks great but is cheaper to make the nipple separate and make it out of steal, you don't have as much waste on that expensive aluminum. Your adapter looKs good though.





GregEdited by: LanduytG

Lacking on hunting??? Hmmm, depends on what your hunting!!! I heard the woman are plentiful. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif To bad I can't take the truck. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


About the threads on the bottom of the filter, yes, I did notice they are different. I have made a tool just for this. I am still working on my first one. I was trying to figure out if it is better to use the plastic threaded insert for the WIF sensor out of the OEM filter or just thread the aluminum. But if I am going to make a bunch of them, I guess just threading the cap would be best. Unless everyone wanted to pull there filters apart and pull the plastic portion out of their OEM filter. I guess I will just have to go and buy a new WIF sensor to have while making these caps. Just so I know the sensor will thread on each one. I have been taking mine apart just about every weekend, gets to be old. I will probably make different kits for the filters. I still need to see how much extra fuel line there is to see if I have enough room to make a shim for moving the stock filter mount away from the valve cover and exhaust. A R60 series filter would not need one so it would be the cheapest. The R90 series would need one. But then there is the situation if you would want to use the type filter that has the open end for the WIF sensor, or if you preferred using the closed filter and bypassing the WIF sensor on your own. Does anyone know if the threads on other brand filters are the same as the Racor? Or would I have to make different ones for different brands? Looks like I will have to give my lathe in my garage a tune up before I start doing all this. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Jeff

I'm in for an adaptor, too. I think they are worth at least $70.

I will definetly purchase one. Although I might end up with the nicktane kit before hand. Hey, that would really be good! A 10 micron pre-oem and a 2 micron oem!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Count me in.

Just my 2 cents. It would be nice to have the water in the filter funtion. Good heads up and keeps you out of warranty issues. If this means building an adapter with an offset? or building a spacer for the stock head, either would be fine. From looking at my truck it seems moving the head out would require almost every piece of hose to be changed. That's okay. I also belive it would not be very hard at all to build an electrical adapter that adresses the length issue and also any polarity/impedance issues. I could build electrical adapters all day long for approx. 6 bucks each.

I think a guy could get away with just removing that ball. My take on it is that the OE filter pushes it out of the way. If you pul the OE filter head off of the truck, you can remove the plastic "underhead" and pop out the ball. I kinda think the ball was more to prevent dripping by the looks of it.


Threads are "buttress" threads according to SoMNDmax.


Only thing that has me scratching my head is why Racor? If the original one is not a stellar performer, but is supposed to be rated good, what makes another Racor better.


I'll also add that 2 filters are better than one, so whatever the filter of choice consider a second unit...

Kennedy,


I agree why put on a filter that is no better than stock? Does the ball have anything to do with keeping the system primed when not in use?

On a second note I never got a chance to call Racor. I want to talk to them about why there stock filter is not sufficient? Also if there are 2-300 hundred people willing to buy an adaptor than why not just have Racor build a real filter that mounts on the stock head? This seems like the easiest solution of all. I know it is not as fun or interesting as R&D your own adaptor or kit but it would by far be the most logical?

Kennedy,


I agree why put on a filter that is no better than stock? Does the ball have anything to do with keeping the system primed when not in use?








If memory serves, the ball hangs down at the very bottom of the post. The tower in the filter comes up well above the point of sealing to the post casuing it to stick well up into the post. The ball is basically useless during operation.





The Racor media used has been clamied at 2 micron. Some say 4. Personally, I cannot see putting trust into Racor. If the little Cat had a drain it would be a nice addition. A little smallish but...

Kennedy,


You said you do not know if you trust Racor. It is funny you mention that. I have been wondering HOW we all agree there is water in diesel fuel but less than .01% of us ever finds water in our Racor water trap???? Sounds like a contradiction to me! Somebody please set me straight.

Wouldn't you be better off replacing the entire OEM head with one that utilized a better filter. I don't want to rain on anyones parade but I just don't see the benefit here. Don't get me wrong, that looks like a quality piece. If I was to put a different filter in the OEM location, It'd be a better one. From what I can tell, the R90S has basically the same element inside as the OEM, just bigger. Why go through the hassle and expense of a filter adaptor for the OEM location when adding any pre or post setups will be easier and in the end result in cleaner fuel. One thing that I think has been left out here is what a pain it will be to change on the side of the road if need be. This adds more pieces to the puzzle, adaptors, o-rings and such. If you think the dealer will give you a hard time about an added filter, wait til they see this. This is some great ingenuity, however it seems to be one of those all for not projects. I've pursued many myself...

Just some thoughts....

Ox

BlueOx03, well saidhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif I must agree. Why go through the trouble of replacing a piece of crap with a bigger piece of crap? If Fram oil filters suck, a bigger Fram oil filter will still suck. How about a CAT or Baldwin or something reputable? I know....it will be harder to find a way to keep a WIF sensor that way...It's not an easy project, keep up the good work and good ideas http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif SPICER

I just read this thread tonight, and I must say its interesting. Up until Kennedy's comments, almost everyone was excited about the adapter, and the use of a more standard Racor filter. Then Kennedy questions the Racor, and the mood all of a sudden changes against Racor. Don't get me wrong....I respect Kennedy and his products, but there are many other good opinions just as valid as his. I believe that Racor filters did very well in 65Nomad's tests. Just because the OEM filter may not be the best, I don't think we can assume all Racor's are bad.

I went to Rocky mountain fuel injection today and asked for Stanadyne filtration for my truck. They were speechless. They are even an authorized dealer for Stanadyne. They almost laughed at me. They told me Racor makes AWSOME filters. They gave me a lolipop and sent me on my way.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif


I think the most complicated thing about this post is there is 2 or 3 other threads working simutanously. I read another thread and it changes my opion about this thread. It is hard to keep up. It almost seems that the current thinking is as follows. 1 or 2 micron is just to fine of a filter to be used as a primary final filter. It seems that a larger more course filter is need to stop the big stuff first. Such as a 10 micron. You then need to follow this up with a final filter such as a 2 or 1 micron. If this is indeed true then the stock Racor rated at 2 microns is just perfect where it is at. It just needs to be PRE fed by a filter of 10 microns. This works good for many reasons. The first filter is larger and fits under the bed. It is 10 mic. so it wont be damaged by plugging or metal and will not need to be changed often. The stock filter is small but by being prefed it will not need to be changed often. It is also at less risk of being damaged buy a plugged pre filter because the prefilter is 10 mic. Some will say it is still better to run a 2 mic in the pre position. Maybe they are correct?Edited by: Bronco

Fuel analysis has proven time and again that the Racor 600 series filters get the job done. The OEM filter might be made by Racor but it is made to GM spec and its made to make GM happy. Over 150 units sold in the past 12 months and units sold to 3 different GM dealerships tells me they must be working.





Greg

I believe that Racor filters did very well in 56Nomad's tests. Just because the OEM filter may not be the best, I don't think we can assume all Racor's are bad.


I agree, there's more going on here than meets the eye. The OEM filtration quality is hampered by several things including a vacuum fuel pump that doesn't come anywhere close to correctly filling the OEM'd Racor filter.


I can't remember if 56Nomad's Racor filter was pre or post. I believe the pre filter solutions have been filling properly.Edited by: Ray403Dmax

Ok here is where I get confused, I thought AceHi said something about changing up the thread configuration to handle other brands as well. This thread is kinda long to go back and re-read all the posts but. I asssume once you get away from the factory threads you might have other filter/other companyes that can cross reference their filters to match what was intended/adapted.

Maybe if George Morrison, could chime in and give his opinion on the intended use Racor 600 series.

Also, I'd like to know if the filter mfrs. in fact do make filters to replace other brands, anyone?


Thanks,

Personally, (and I don't want to sound like I'm trying to quash the adapter idea) I'd leave the OE setup alone and add whatever auxilliary (notice I did not say secondary, primary or other) filtration system suited my needs.





MULTI PASS is the key here more than anything. We've got a unit (coming) that is 99.9% efficient at 1 micron (VERY expensive) yet I still will recommend a pre filter...

Great But will this 1 mic replace the oem garbage we currently have?

I currently run the Nicktane Kit, but would still like to see the Oem upgraded.Edited by: pepperidge

I agree. If the stock Racor is not good, then I do not want it on my truck. It would be nice if Racor would make a replacement for the stock head that was speciffically designed to go with there prefilter kit. NOW THATS USIN YOUR KANOGGIN! A very high quality final filter that has to be prefiltered by a not so high micron prefilter Racor. PLEASE,PLEASE,PLEASE? I guess untill then we are just going to have to use the adaptor!

My thoughts exactly Bronco!

Here is why I like the adapter idea. It allows me to use a filter that has a know filtering capability (per Greg's analysis) at 2 microns. I can do this without cutting or making modifications to the OEM fuel system that cannot be undone easily for warranty work. If I remember correctly from TDP discussions over a year ago that our filter uses a non std thread, so the purpose of the adapter is to convert it to a std thread that a number of different filter makers use. So I think we can use the CAT filter for example vs the Racor shown. Yes you will loose the WIF indicator if you go this route.


So from my perspective when it's time to see the general, you just take the adapter off, remove the spacer, put the OEM filter back on and take her in. Probably no more than 20 minutes worth of work, and you won't have someone questioning why you have some non approved secondary filter set up on your truck. FWIW, I believe 1000% that we need secondary filtration, but I'm not going to risk my warranty until I see that GM is going to officially give it's blessing to the new racor set up that is in the other thread AND that they bless cutting the main fuel line to install it.


BTW I have a 150K zero deductable warranty on my engine thanks to the OEM air filter that came with a nice size hole in it from the factory. GM bought back my GMPP 7/100K warranty and then extended the motor to 150K miles. So my attitude right now is that I am going to stay with changing the OEM filter at 15K intervals until GM blesses the secondary filter setup and let my injectors do as they please. 30K on them now and they are doing fine.


Another note........ somehow my # of posts got reset http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif it shows me as a newbie again http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Throw Up.gif

The WIF can be maintained but you need to find the bowl half of the WIF connector and then run one extra 18ga 12 volt wire. Very easy to do.

Greg

John,


Can you explain this new filter. Will it fit on the Mega base?

Searay -


Another positive side to the adapter is no air/priming issues with no line mods.

John,


Can you explain this new filter. Will it fit on the Mega base?








Still in testing, but if it pans out I'll have a different nipple for it. Definite benefit to modular design.








As for air and the OE, after pulling my hair out trying to find the point of entry, I'd say that I believe ALL non pressurized Duramax systems are being run on a steady diet of air, and the majority of the element surface area is not being used until the lower portion begins to fill up...

Why not put one of these (http://www.pbase.com/mackin/cat) down stream in the Nick location or on the frame rail ten a choice of 2um in the OEM location ... Size wont matter (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif) ,on the final filter as that will only determine maintance schedule ...


They Cat is about the size of the 7950 ....





Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

Count me in for one. What's the latest?