Started my '04 D/A CC LT yesterday and noticed the air bag indicator stayed on. Drove over to the dealer so they could witness it and set up an appointment. On the way home, noticed that also the inside mirror compass and temp were dark. Got home and hit the books (Helm FSM) and found that a single 15 amp fuse feeds both the SIR and the mirror display. I pulled it and it was blown. Didn't look like a really high current had taken it out (not black with spatter all over it.) I replaced the fuse and all seems well, so far. Is there a known cause for this fuse to just suddenly go? Is the normal current draw on this circuit close to the 15 amp rating of the fuse. Outside temp has hit near 100 here so underhood temps would be much higher possibly de-rating the fuse. I just recently rolled over 1,000 hours and am about ready to hit 30K miles. Thanks in advance...

Fuses don't blow for no reason. Seeing at is related to the SIR, keep a REAL close eye on this. Unfortunately shorts are really hard to find when they are random so you might have to wait until it is predicatable. Since it is related to SIR I would think that the dealer should probably throw parts at it in an attempt to solve it especially if it does it more then once.

Thanks for the quick reply, Max. I was afraid that this would be the answer but thought that since you see a lot more problems than I have had there may be a pattern out there. Will keep the appointment with the dealer and let them see the old fuse. The only thing that had been done to the truck in the 24 hours prior to the problem was to change out the fuel filter using the "Eric" method. When I primed it, I forgot the extra pump strokes after getting fuel out of the bleeder. Cranked a a lot longer than it should have before I realized I had forgotten to build pressure with the hand pump. Honestly didn't notice if I had the problem at that point.

Thanks again for the response!

Just did a quick check of current draw through that 15 amp fuse. On startup and test, it runs about 0.55 amp and after test and all the lights are out, it is 0.45 amps. Just a FYI.

I have seen some wiring damage behind the parking brake mechanism. That's one place to look.

WOW, GMCSID, you really nailed this one! I can blow that fuse on demand just by pushing the parking brake hard enough to hold my D/A still on my 16% slope driveway! Went out in the 102 degree heat and found that the arm for the parking brake digs into the harness just below a guide loop. If that loop were moved 1/2" to either side, it looks like the problem would be solved. Will demonstrate for the dealer tomorrow and see what they want to do about it. Strange that the pedal goes so close to the floor. Maybe the cable has stretched. Since the parking brake is for holding only, can't believe the shoes have worn enough to do that. I've tried holding the release while applying and releasing the brake to do the so-called auto adjust but no change.

Again, thanks to GMCSID and Max Power for your responses. Nice to know help is only a keyboard away!

That shows you how important experience is. You could have had it to 100 different shops and never solved that problem. Great job GMCSID.

Picked up the truck from the dealer yesterday. They verified that the parking brake pedal was really digging into the wire bundle, fixed the bundle and moved it to the left. Had to remove it from the factory installed loop type retainer to do it. I'm just glad the pedal decided to cut into a power feed wire instead of one that would have blown the bag. Since this problem has been seen before, I wonder if there will be any kind of recall? Seems to be a potential safety problem for some poor slob expecting to just set the brake and receiving a large explosion along with it!

Once more, thanks for the help. Made life a lot easier for me and the dealer.