O.K. So i think i am going to do the pcv reroute to my truck My question is, I read on here where someone made a canister to run it into. Is there a good reason to do this? Or just do it how the diy forum says to do it.

Go to the JEGS website , they have canisters for your reroute so your truck wont dump oil all over your drivway .It should be listed under pcv remote resivoir. I purchased one that will hold a pint of oil ,which is more than enough, for $79. Works great . I just cut the metal tubing that came out of the valve covers and replaced the factory hoses with half inch fuel line that I ran into the resevoir that had 3/8 fittings on it. When I do an oil change I just drain it out through the drain valve . Usually gives me about a couple of tablespoons of oil. You can mount it wherever you want but I used an angle bracket and mounted it just above the powersteering pump using the available bolt holes near the ac pump.

In my opinion and many others that will agree...don't waste your money unless you're going to the super shiny billet aluminum one or a stainless steel one. I've never seen my PCV reroute hose leave anything on my driveway or anything where I've parked. I ran mine out of the compartment and down along the frame and it dumps right below the drivers door. If anything were to get that far downstream, I'm sure the draft from the road would take care of it long before it ever gets to the driveway.

Mine dumps in the driver's side wheel well, up against the frame. I have had a couple drips out of the hose, but never enough to even make it to the driveway. Like to think that section of frame will never rust due to the couple drops of oil!!

In my opinion and many others that will agree...don't waste your money unless you're going to the super shiny billet aluminum one or a stainless steel one. I've never seen my PCV reroute hose leave anything on my driveway or anything where I've parked. I ran mine out of the compartment and down along the frame and it dumps right below the drivers door. If anything were to get that far downstream, I'm sure the draft from the road would take care of it long before it ever gets to the driveway.

x2

X3 mine just dumps on the outside of the frame on the passenger side! Never had an oil dipping out of it. No need to buy a catch can!

I was going to run mine down the frame also, but being that I live in the northeast were we get quite a bit of snow and ice I was concerned that it hose might get plugged up at some point. Hence using the resivoir were it stays nice and dry in the engine compartment. Also the install only took about 30 min and it looks cool too.And to those that use radiator hose for the reroute the reason you dont see any oil is that the hose will absorb it. The oil will actually eat into the hose and decay it.

I have the Tony B.'s kit with 2 hoses all the way down to the frame (right side) and let the oil dripped freely before. However, the oil messed up the rust coating so I decided to buy a Moroso catch can and got it installed. I got the one with 2 inlets but, you should be fine with the single one. I bought brass fittings from Lowe's instead because the manufacturer sells them for ~$30. It looks good underneath the frame on the right side.

It may have been my PCV re-route project that you read. I'm happy with how it turned out, I have only drained it one time and got more oil out of it than I though I was going to get. I have heard of guys welding a bung to their exhaust and connecting to hose to that. I can't stand any oil dripping anywhere so dripping out of my exhaust wouldn't be an option.

Here is my finished product:

http://www.pbase.com/leros/image/125790013.jpg

Here is the thread of my project from the start.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376059

No need for a catch can, mine has never dripped any oil.

No need for a catch can, mine has never dripped any oil.

Where is the oil going? If you re-routed it out of your motor, where did you re-route it to? Unless you capped it off it has to have oil coming out of whatever you routed it with. In just one month I have a little less than a 1/4" of oil in a plastic cup when I drained mine.

Like I said the oil is being absorbed into the coolant lines that some people are using for the reroute. For my first reoute I used 3/4 heater hose goiing directly to a breather without a catch can. After about 2000 miles the breather became saturated and would leak all over the moter. After about a year of this i removed it . When I pulled the hoses off the insides were turning into mush from the oil.Heater hose is not rated for use with oil and can over time collapse and cause a blockage of the pcv which isn't a good thing.

Mine drips with Tony's kit. Leros - nice write up and fab. I'm going to do something similar before too long.

Like I said the oil is being absorbed into the coolant lines that some people are using for the reroute. For my first reoute I used 3/4 heater hose goiing directly to a breather without a catch can. After about 2000 miles the breather became saturated and would leak all over the moter. After about a year of this i removed it . When I pulled the hoses off the insides were turning into mush from the oil.Heater hose is not rated for use with oil and can over time collapse and cause a blockage of the pcv which isn't a good thing.

So, what type of hose is acceptable for oil?

So, what type of hose is acceptable for oil?

Any fuel line.

Has anyone ever tried simply taking the stock fitting that plugs into the mouth piece, flipping it vertical and stuffing a K&N breather into it?

Maybe that's to simple?

Probably a viable option...worked great for thousands of cars with vented valve covers. Maybe the only reason behind the Tony B "type" design is to get any fumes/vapors/leaks out of the engine bay, and sell more hose.:)

Probably a viable option...worked great for thousands of cars with vented valve covers. Maybe the only reason behind the Tony B "type" design is to get any fumes/vapors/leaks out of the engine bay, and sell more hose.:)

Exactly my point. Up until what, the early 70s when PCV valves came out, we had nothing but a breather on each valve cover.

Prior to that, Chevy's only had a single breather on the front of the intake manifold.

I think we're trying to re-engineer the wheel here... I'm going back to old school hot rodding and will try a single breather. I'm not convinced that we need a open hose under the truck, or oil separators, etc.

Here's the hot ticket... I'll try it this week and confirm.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-62-1410/ (rubber top) 17.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-62-1420/ (chrome top) 19.95

*should* be able to ditch the hose clamp, slide it in place, and use the factory clamp over the outside, achieving the same double seal the factory uses where it mounts on the mouth piece.

Point it straight up, and done deal. Simple and effective, although not emissions legal.

Just the breathers I was thinking of. We used to use those exact mini K&Ns on our offshore race boat's valve covers. Seems like they were more expensive 5 years ago.

I actually have one of these chrome breathers Y'd in at the end of my PCV re-route right now. It's down at the end of the hoses, zip tied to the frame rail.http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/234752.jpg

Well, see, that's another thought I had. In reality, I wouldn't want to just have an open hose for the breathers. I'd want some sort of filter even at the bottom of the hose.

The breathers you run on your boat are probably more expensive, just like what I run on the drag car. The breathers I linked are 1" ID. Most valve covers are 1.25" ID. Those I linked are also only 2-3/8" tall. Most valve cover breathers are 3".

It may have been my PCV re-route project that you read. I'm happy with how it turned out, I have only drained it one time and got more oil out of it than I though I was going to get. I have heard of guys welding a bung to their exhaust and connecting to hose to that. I can't stand any oil dripping anywhere so dripping out of my exhaust wouldn't be an option.

Here is my finished product:

http://www.pbase.com/leros/image/125790013.jpg

Here is the thread of my project from the start.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376059

That might be the cleanest engine bay I have ever seen :D.

That might be the cleanest engine bay I have ever seen :D.

I can't stand oily, dirty engines or under carriages for that matter! ;) Unfortunately that little K&N filter isn't clean anymore I have a good few thousand miles on it since I installed it and it's dirty, but not dripping oil. I have a 600+ mile trip this coming weekend and when I get home I'm going to drain the tank to see how much oil is in there.

This is what my intercooler tube looked like before I did my re-route when I installed my banks tube. I'm hoping I don't have this problem anymore.
http://www.pbase.com/leros/image/125273961.jpg

Now if I can just keep this stuff clean under my engine compartment.......

........and because I don't have an open hose at the end of my re-route dangling against my frame, i don't think I'll have a problem!
http://www.pbase.com/leros/image/127727088.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/leros/image/127727183.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/leros/image/127727083.jpg

You did a VERY nice job on the install with the braided lines, fabbed tank, and breather.

You did a VERY nice job on the install with the braided lines, fabbed tank, and breather.

Thanks, and my answer to the OP will still be, yes I think a canister is the way to go on a PCV re-route.

Thanks, and my answer to the OP will still be, yes I think a canister is the way to go on a PCV re-route.

To each their own. I prefer the KISS method of things.

The breathers you run on your boat are probably more expensive, just like what I run on the drag car.

So what do you race and where?

The breathers you run on your boat are probably more expensive, just like what I run on the drag car. The breathers I linked are 1" ID. Most valve covers are 1.25" ID. Those I linked are also only 2-3/8" tall. Most valve cover breathers are 3".
Ah ha. Those dimensions do sound familiar.
I gotta admit I'm leaning toward SteveO's catch can w/ breather set-up. Here's why - I will probably look forward to emptying the reservoir...as if to justify the time/effort put into the job, lol. I can drain it into a solo cup, and proudly march around the house proclaiming my brilliance. My wife will be so impressed...

I can drain it into a solo cup, and proudly march around the house proclaiming my brilliance. My wife will be so impressed...

I know my wife is impressed!

NOT!! She thinks I'm nuts for working on my truck all the time. I had to listen to her all weekend because I'm fabricating some single shock hoops so that I can run a nice long shock on the front instead of the little short shocks. I just tell her to go back in the the house. ;)

My wife pays no attention to me. It hasn't dawned on her that I have 2 sets of wheels/tires for the truck, never mind PCV canisters... I should consider myself lucky, I guess.

My wife pays no attention to me. It hasn't dawned on her that I have 2 sets of wheels/tires for the truck, never mind PCV canisters... I should consider myself lucky, I guess.

I only wish I could be that lucky.:rolleyes:

I only wish I could be that lucky.:rolleyes:

X2. :D

Before I bought the 'Moroso' catch can and installed it underneath the truck, I had the 2 hoses with separate breathers just zip tied to something inside the engine compartment. However, the fume that is being released started to get sucked inside the cabin when in a stop. That is the time I decided to take both hoses all the way down the truck and zip tied them to the frame by the front passenger side. It messed my rust coating because of the oil and so I decided to install the aluminum catch can with a single breather. I only had it for approximately a month and hadn't drained it yet. No more mess!