Im just curious what everyone is getting for oil pressure on average. Mine does not move up when i step on the pedal nor does it drop down at idle like my gassers did. I get a steady reading all the time. Im in canada so the gauge is in Kpa but the needle is always 3/4 of the way up. Sometimes is a little less then that but its around there more often then not. Half way is 275 and all the way is 550 so im assuming 3/4 is around 59-60psi? (if my math is correct) Does this seem normal? thanks

Oil pressure does not go up or down when driving.

It is only up or down based on the viscosity of the oil. When hot, viscosity of oil is down, so oil pressure is lower relatively when you just start the truck.

Mine run around 60 when cold, and around 40 when hot.

Well if the pump is driven off of the cam (chev 350) wouldnt the pressure rise and fall with rpm? And it is at about 60 when cold, but even when i drive for an hour or so it only drops a little. My temp barely goes above 1/4 the way so i dunno, thanks for the reply so quick.

Well if the pump is driven off of the cam (chev 350) wouldnt the pressure rise and fall with rpm? And it is at about 60 when cold, but even when i drive for an hour or so it only drops a little. My temp barely goes above 1/4 the way so i dunno, thanks for the reply so quick.

the 6.5 is driven from the cam as well, mine runs at almost 70 when i first start it up, and 60 hot off idle and about 40 at idle hot, my motor has about 20,000 miles on it

Mine and Outalne is about the same. I don't think yours is much difference.

The pressure is read from the OPS.

Alright thanks for the replys. I was reading something somewhere about ops's on these things going bad or something?

the ops have gone bad for many but usually those that fail are failing to power the lift pump during engine running.
the gauge part is not the failure point but the current carrying contacts for the lift pump.

i know both my trucks the oil pressure goes up with RPM.

Pickup - 15w-40 Amsoil 8 qt cap. 10 with empty oil cooler/lines

- 60 cold
- 39 warm idle
- 50-55 driving warmed up

Blazer - 15w-40 Rotella T 7 qt cap. 8 with empty oil cooler/lines
- 55-60 cold
- 25-30 warm idle
- 40-45 driving warmed up

oil pressure will raise when warm with rpm, up to the point it overcomes the spring pressure for the relief valve.
if you want more pressure you need to shim the spring in the pump or buy a stronger spring.
when cold the relief valve can be forced open some but not able to flow enough cold oil to lower the pressure to its preset point, so you might see higher pressures with cold oil.

Here's mine shortly after starting it up during lunch time today.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/ryan_birch/1996%20Chevy%20Silverado%20K2500/IMG00074-20100810-1147.jpg

It moves a little bit with RPM's, but is right around this point every time I look at it. Including when warmed up.

looks good mine tends to settle around the 275 mark but thats just an indication of how accurate the guages are on the clusters.
with electric gauges the needle can point anywhere the designer wants.

Here's mine shortly after starting it up during lunch time today.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/ryan_birch/1996%20Chevy%20Silverado%20K2500/IMG00074-20100810-1147.jpg

It moves a little bit with RPM's, but is right around this point every time I look at it. Including when warmed up.


Mine looks the same like yours. If it is real hot, after highway towing with some hills, it drops a little bit below 275 Kpa. But that's is everytime an indication for me to have an oil change, cauz with new oil and filter it doesn't drop below 275Kpa.


Cu,
Sven

Hy guys i would have somthing to add in this conversation , and i too am from Canada under heavy towing on a hot day my oil pressure stated to bounce (go up and down) and then i stayed stuck in trafic which every time i would brake the pressure would go really down and my check gauges would light up (flicker) . As soon as i would start rolling again at a continued pace my pressure was fine. The truck also leeks alot . What could this be ?

Hy guys i would have somthing to add in this conversation , and i too am from Canada under heavy towing on a hot day my oil pressure stated to bounce (go up and down) and then i stayed stuck in trafic which every time i would brake the pressure would go really down and my check gauges would light up (flicker) . As soon as i would start rolling again at a continued pace my pressure was fine. The truck also leeks alot . What could this be ?
most likely cause of that condition is oil that is approaching overheating/to low a viscosity of oil,was it 10w30 diesel oil or 15w40 or higher diesel oil?
could also be wear on the engines internals or a worn oil pump.
better fix the leak also.

The oil was 15w40 my mechanic said it was really rare that on that type of motor , the oil pump would need changeing he said it might be my seal crank which has already been changed about 8 mths ago. But these days it's been leeking more especially when it's hot. And since i haven't been pulling anything the oil pressure seems fine.

sounds like that day you had a very hot engine.

If in doubt, just change the oil. May be the oil is worn out. At least check the level. Fixing leak will definitely help because any leak means leak in pressure also.

I changed the oil for Rottella 15w40 (shell) after that problem and i tried to pull my horse trailer again, when the motor is cold everthing is fine. On the autoroute also, it,s as soon as a get stuck in a traffic gam with a hot motor it does the same thing exept this time the check gauges won't light up.

I changed the oil for Rottella 15w40 (shell) after that problem and i tried to pull my horse trailer again, when the motor is cold everthing is fine. On the autoroute also, it,s as soon as a get stuck in a traffic gam with a hot motor it does the same thing exept this time the check gauges won't light up.
you might be well advised to look through the cooling mods listed at this site for no more reason then to find the best way to clean out your radiator.
your symptoms indicate not enough airflow across the oil cooler when at low speed which could mean not enough air flow anywhere at low speed causing harm elsewhere too.

What oil filter did you put? I hope it is not Fram Orange.

Yes it is a fram... ! Why do you say that ?

Yes it is a fram... ! Why do you say that ?

Unless it's Fram Tough Guard version, it's very poor quality:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html

interesting !!!!

That may be your reason. Cannot be sure but again based on reading here and some other forum, there are occurences with Fram Orange collapsing with high temperature.

So, to revise my suggestion is to change the Fram Orange to something else like Purolator.

Thanks i'll do that . I also forgot to mention, when the problem acures, in traffic hot motor, if i presh the brakes the oil pressure goes down and if a press the gas the oil pressure goes up.....

While were talking about oil filters. Im using the blue AC delco filters. Anyone else using these? Any problems or anything?

the delco filters work fine for me, napa gold are ok wix are very good and chrysler/dodge filters are good and priced rite.

I run about 40-70 pounds. Thats a non squirter block with a high volume pump in it tho. Pretty sure NAPA Gold's are made by wix. Thats what i get.

non squirter block? Is that good or bad lol

Anything is better than Fram Orange.

WhERE DO I FINF (COOLING MODS) ????

the delco filters work fine for me, napa gold are ok wix are very good and chrysler/dodge filters are good and priced rite.

Napa gold and purolator pure one are the same filter just rebranded.

Wix and the standard purolator are the same. The regular purolator.

fram orange is made with a plastic check valve and cardboard filter end with inferior glue. Stay away.

I don't know much about fram tough guard but they are better than the orange.

Bosch and mobil one are overpriced.

Royal purple filters are great if you use their oil and want to extend oil changes.

That's my knowledge of filters. thought I'd share

WhERE DO I FINF (COOLING MODS) ????
in the 6.5 section of this forum on the right hand side is a box that says search this forum,click that and type cooling mods and hit enter.
you will come up with a list like the link here gives:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/search.php?searchid=9202876
read any posts that seem to apply

Did you fix your problem, what was it?

Did you cut the old filter open to see what was going on inside?

sold the damn thing befor it explodes or something ;-)

Napa gold and purolator pure one are the same filter just rebranded.

Wix and the standard purolator are the same. The regular purolator.

fram orange is made with a plastic check valve and cardboard filter end with inferior glue. Stay away.

I don't know much about fram tough guard but they are better than the orange.

Bosch and mobil one are overpriced.

Royal purple filters are great if you use their oil and want to extend oil changes.

That's my knowledge of filters. thought I'd share


I agree that Fram sucks(wouldn't use it on a lawnmower), but i dont' agree that Wix and Purolator are the same. I've cut both open after an oil change. There's no way they are the same filter.

I agree that Fram sucks(wouldn't use it on a lawnmower), but i dont' agree that Wix and Purolator are the same. I've cut both open after an oil change. There's no way they are the same filter.

Sorry I should have clarified. I meant Or the same quality. Or so I've been told. Any chance You can say different?

Next time you are in a Wall Mart pull an AC delco for your truck off the shelf and compair it to WM Tech 2000 filters.You will see. They are exactly the same. Made by Champ Filters.
Even the Wally world Tech 2000 are better than orange Frams IMO. They paint frams "radioactive orange" for a very good reason:D