Getting ready to add a sub or two to my 05 crew cab. I have an alpine 9855 hu and four infinity kappa's in the door's. Not sure if I should get the single or double sub box from subtump. I know the duals would be much lounder, but I only need something that sounds clean krisp and tight, but I'm worried if I only go with a single that it won't be enough with the 5.5" mount space, but I really like the idea of have a nice place for the amp.
Any thought's ? :o:

I have a single 10" behind the seat, and it is not powerful enough. I can hear it and feel it, but it wont shake you crazy.

I am looking at going with a subthump box. Trying to decide if I'll go with a dual behind the seat, or dual under the seat. I dont want to give up too much storage space though.

Do go the PAC adapter route, the bass sounds better than what I originally did, the cheap line level converter from wal-mart.

http://duramax.onlinedesk.net/subwoofer/index.htm

i always get as many subs as i can and have the sub preout on the head unit so i can turn it up or down anytime i want. IMO its the only way to go, i wont do a system without the sub preout.

my alpine 9855 has full sub control with adjustible crossover, so I am covered there. So if I used a high end alpine amp, do you still think a single would not be good enough ?

Well,

For me, in my last two vehicles I have had 2 12s in a band pass box using the factory head end unit and have been GREATLY pleased. I used the same Kenwood amp on those as I am using now on my single 10". I think it is a 400 watt amp. I am using the amps cross-over.

I think next I am going to get a bass EQ and fine tune my sub output levels.

So I think the problem with the DMax, is the fact that I have one sub and it is a 10" and it is behind the rear seat. I think the carpet on the rear seat doesnt help any either.

The box I am using is within .01 cu in of capacity for which the MTX sub is designed for. I even filled the box to help, but it still doesnt kick anything close to 1/2 of what my two 12s do. (they are MTX thunders too)

I have folded down the back seats and put the bandpass box in there with the 2 12s, OUCH!!! :) Talk about some nice sound!!

So, go with two subs, under seat. :)

Let me know how it ends up sounding too!

I actually just was contiplating the exact same question in my 02. Here is what I decided. I have ALWAYS had a problem with heat and the amplifiers, I don't know what it is, where I place the amps or what, but I thought that having it affixed to the box all while having that under a seat would not provide much airflow. In addition installing a fan, if needed, would be a pain there.

So, I opted to to do the Dual box, I got some JL Audio 10W3's on the way soon and installing the amps on the back wall of the truck very low, so that it is not in the way of anything and can hopefully have proper circulation, stupid WI summers....

I'm going to try the single 10, using an alpine dual coil S series with an alpine 605 400 watt amp. Its a double 4 ohm so I'll do it parallel and have 2 ohms. Which will put the amp in the middle of its power range. I think that will help keep the amp cool vs running 1 ohm. I'm also running my four kappa's from the deck which is 4 x 25. If I had the doubles I think I would have to and another amp to run the doors and I don't really feel like doing that. So I guess I will be the gennie pig to see how this works.

I sent an email to subthump to ask wether the downfire would outperform the behind the seats one. So, I guess I'll sacrafice the "storage" space and go with downfire. I think I am going to do the dual 10s downfire and keep my amp mounted on the rear wall.

THis is what Steve said:

"
Hands down, the downfire box is a much better option than the behind seat box. For several reasons. First, the mounting depth of the behind seat box is a smidge over 5". I can get 6 or 6.5" deep subs under the seat with plenty of clearance for excursion left. Second, because the behind seat subs are firing directly into the back of the seat, not only does it muffle a lot of the bass, but the surround can often hit the seat and give unwanted noises. Unless you use grilles of course to protect the subs. But the foam and carpet on the back of the seat greatly absorbs some of the sound. Wheras under the seat, the waves deflect off the hard floor surface and this actually gives you substantial gain. Not only louder bass, but lower bass. I hardly ever sell one for behind the seat. The under seat boxes outsell them probably 20 or 30 to 1. I don't think anyone who currently owns my downfire box would give it up for something behind the seat."

I ran two JL W0 10" subs in a fiberglass box behind the seat in the last truck with a 500.1B/D amp. For subs I always run a digital amp, no heat issues and they hit like a mother. I also like the adjustable bass wired remote for the amp if using a stock head unit, you can control the bass seperately. Here's a pic of my last set-up, new truck is being finished now 2 JL W1 12" under the seat with a JL500/1 @ 2ohms.

http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495DCP_0543-med.JPG

I'll post pics when done.

Two 10's or one big 12" is the minimum I would ever run and I'm not into booming all that much. One 10 is just not enough for all the effort it takes to add it.

Just my $.02,

Chris

Nice setup there Chris.

What recommendations does anyone have for two 10s for a downfire box? I am not up on whoe makes good and bad subs.

I'll be using a subthump downfire box.

I like lows a lot.
I didnt want to spend more than $100/sub, if that is possible.

I run two JL8W3V2s, and it sounds pretty good. I always get asked how many tens I have, so I must not have done too bad....

I have the dual 10" downfire from subthump and would not reccomend anything less. You can fit 2 JL 10W3V2 with no problem. JL reccomends .65 cubic feet per woofer, the subthump box gives you .55. Close enough. I have almost 300 watts running to each sub and they hit hard and are very tight.

For 10s that you want to put under the seat without lifting them the BEST subs IMO would be Here (http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_series/rli_10_inch_DIY_car_and_home_subwoofer_driver_info rmation.html). They're $153 each but there small, take very little room, and will handle like around 500w RMS in a small sealed box. Moreover, I have been looking into this for a long time, and having enough thump could be one of the things that keep me out of a Dmax.

andrew,
Look at rockford fosgates new stuff. they have some unbelievable subs out now.

What, are they selling JLs now??

funny Blue Ox i had and liked JL's once but im back to old faithful RF

I'm going to try the single 10, using an alpine dual coil S series with an alpine 605 400 watt amp. Its a double 4 ohm so I'll do it parallel and have 2 ohms. Which will put the amp in the middle of its power range. I think that will help keep the amp cool vs running 1 ohm. I'm also running my four kappa's from the deck which is 4 x 25. If I had the doubles I think I would have to and another amp to run the doors and I don't really feel like doing that. So I guess I will be the gennie pig to see how this works.

OH MAN, do yourself a favor soon and get those kappas some power. You don't know what you are missing at only 25 a channel. I have Infinity Perfect's in one of my vehicles and let me tell you, give those 60 a speaker and you are rocking. Plus with all the bass you are going to need it loud to hear the rest!!!

I have been looking into the exact same box... According to the subthump guys, with the correct spacer you can actually expand the mounting depth to 6.5" instead of 6, even though on their website it says "expandable to 6 inches". I have been looking into this sub company for my subs and my amp, they look really good, and the price is very very good!! I have owned a lot of JL audio stuff, and I would like to try something else out for a change, even though JL is good. If anyone has personal experience with these subs, please let me know!

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=2&pid=13&cur=USD

I run the Subthump dual 10,s down fireing with a digital alpine amp (the only way to go , the run stone cold and are alot cleaner) with Infinity perfect 10.1,s single vc, in parralell (however you spell it) and the amp sees a 2 ohm load, these are the best 10 inch subs I have heard or used,(not just in loudness,which they do play loud and clear but in detail and clarity) and I have heard alot of high end car and home audio, the deep and tight bass almost rivils my $5000.00 referance home subs, that are played through a 1200wt,class A power amp

I run the Subthump dual 10,s down fireing with a digital alpine amp (the only way to go , the run stone cold and are alot cleaner) with Infinity perfect 10.1,s single vc, in parralell (however you spell it) and the amp sees a 2 ohm load, these are the best 10 inch subs I have heard or used

Where do you suggest buying this stuff?

I got mine on e-bay ,look around and shop, just bee carefull that you get the right driver you are looking for, as there are two models, a Perfect 10.1d for dual voice coil for running multiple drivers in series and the Perfect 10.1 single voice coil, which is what you want, two 4 ohm drivers in parralle(again) will present a 2 ohm load on the amp which is ideal for it. you should be able to find a matched pair (sold in sets in same box from factory ) for around $225.00 plus shipping, the Alpine amp also varies in price look around on e-bay and shop it ,any questions PM me, I am in the process right now of building some new referance home subs that will play in excess of 120db at 20 hz, and usible output at 15 hz, all this comes at a cost though!!!

OH MAN, do yourself a favor soon and get those kappas some power. You don't know what you are missing at only 25 a channel. I have Infinity Perfect's in one of my vehicles and let me tell you, give those 60 a speaker and you are rocking. Plus with all the bass you are going to need it loud to hear the rest!!!

I know, but I kinda want to see how good I can get this with just the head unit, 4 kappa's and a single infinity 10" sub with the alpine 605. After that I'll ad a 4 x 75 watt alpine for the doors.

I have a question about Ohms.

My current Kenwood amp says it is 2 Ohm stable.

So, how is it calculated when subs are wired parrallel vs in a series?

Let's say I get two JL 10W3V2s, which way would be the best to hook them up to my Kendwood amp? Bridged, parrallel, series, etc?



>Maximum Output Power: 800 Watts x 1
Power Ratings:
Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V
(20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD): 125 Watts x 2
Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 200 Watts x 2
Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 400 Watts x 1
Maximum Output Power: 800 Watts x 1

http://members.fortunecity.com/cyber01/amps/page031.html
>

Also, when picking a sub out, I assume the lower frequency it is rated for, the better, right?

So

20Hz - 250Hz
is better than
34.7Hz - 150Hz


Since we generally set the crossover frequency at around 90 Hz, I assume there is not much point in find a sub rated over 200Hz or so, right?

andrew - the lower the HZ the better but men cant hear lower than like 25hz i think, for some reason women can hear lower than that. On the high side it depends on what frequencies you want your highs to see. the higher the better for them. get a sub that can play 200 and let your highs see anything over that. As far as wiring, if you have 2 subs rated at 4 ohms (1 voice coil each) if you hook the positive from both speakers to the positive on the amp and the negative from both to the negative on the amp the amp sees half. 2 - four ohm subs hooked like this will give you a 2 ohm load. if you wire them in series you get double the load. 2 - four ohms will give you 8 ohms. rockford fosgate.com has all the wiring diagrams if you need more help.

as with all subs you want to use the max the driver can handle, wire the amp in bridged mode, so you present all 800 wts to be split between the two subs, the 4ohm drivers wired in parralell +to+ -to- if you have one cup, or thesame withtwo cups, but strap the cups together outside the amp and run one set of + and - to the outer most + and - spades that usually puts the amp in bridge mode, all vehicle interiors present a 12db gain for driver frequency resonance ratings, and manufactures use this to rate drivers, so you want a sub that is rated at least 20 hz and no higher than 150, because most subs are x-over around 70to 80hz, also try to get a driver that is at least 90db. efficiant as to the more efficient a driver is at its rated frequinc, the loudr and less power you will use

This explains then why the MTX Thunder 5500s work so well for subs as their range is like 30 Hz to 200 Hz.

Right now I have them wired in Series, so it appears that the amp is seeing it as 8 Ohmz and not 2?

if so, then I'll run them parallel.

I installed two L7 10s with 1600 watts behind the back seat,, WOW. the box runs the entire width of the cab while the amp is under the seat over the tunnel, where the space is the least to work with anyway. Im impressed with the space savings in back of the seats and the sound is superb..... But I had to buy L7s to get this sound in such a small space. Im happy,,,, the box is sealed as well.