This is a really easy question Im sure but I wanted to be sure....
Im getting ready to install a rear main seal and have the oil pan unbolted. But it doesnt seem to want to budge.
My question is do you have to remove the dip stick tube or pull it out with the tube in it. I see there is brace for the dipstick tube that needs to be unbolted up on the exhaust manifold.

I appreciate any help

Dip stick tube should be unbolted from the same bracket that holds the injection lines.
I think it's a 7 or 8mm tiny little screw.
I would hit the pan with a rubber mallet to break the sealant.

No the dipstick tube does NOT need to come out....

X-2 on the rubber mallet to break the seal....

x3 on the rubber mallet. just dont go crazy and dent your pan.

dipstick goes in the block
it is not in the way at all

removing the dipstick tube helps A TON in removal. LOSTPRIME the dipstick does not go through the block. it goes into the side of the oil pan. there is a nut on a stud that holds the exhaust manifold on that also holds the dipstick tube into the oil pan. loosen that nut and pull the tube out of the pan and then you can move the oil pan whereever you feel like since there isnt that cumbersom tube sticking up hooking on everything.

and Zetan, on vans the dipstick is much much longer i assume. but on trucks the dipstick tube is bolted to an exhaust manifold stud.

my apologies....i must have thought of the 350

For some reason I cant post in the Marketplace.. must be the noob status. I was just curious what a fair price was. If it was even worth rebuilding...

yea, you need to be here 30 days and have 25 posts.

The dipstick tube bracket is slotted, as Brent said, no need to remove the nut, just loosen it and pull the tube out. Don't forget to use a pick and remove the o-ring seal that will usually stay in the tube socket in the pan. When reinstalling the tube, install the o-ring on the tube and coat the seal with a small amount of silicone gasket-maker stuff to prevent oil from weeping out from around the tube at the pan boss.

For some reason I cant post in the Marketplace.. must be the noob status. I was just curious what a fair price was. If it was even worth rebuilding...
kool.... im:horsey: not the only person to ask......

there are so many things to think about for your question on is it worth rebuilding.. first are you sure it needs rebuilding..then what you mean by rebuild?? does the crank need to be turned, are the cyl. worn and need reboring..or can you just do a re-ring which is alot less cost involved..or maybe just a engine reseal (gasket set) with rebuilt injectors and i/p maybe even a timing chain..lots of ways to go

there are so many things to think about for your question on is it worth rebuilding.. first are you sure it needs rebuilding..then what you mean by rebuild?? does the crank need to be turned, are the cyl. worn and need reboring..or can you just do a re-ring which is alot less cost involved..or maybe just a engine reseal (gasket set) with rebuilt injectors and i/p maybe even a timing chain..lots of ways to go

Sorry I replied to the wrong post. I have a 6.5 with a cracked head. I bought it to rob the turbo set up and stick it on my 6.2. It has everything except the the injection pump im pretty sure.. Havent really gone through it but im estimating it would be a grand or so to rebuild it. and then id have to get a new turbo for it. Think im going to just scrap it.