My truck has 114k on itand I have had a remote start in it since I first got it. Recenty it has gotten where it won't crank with the remote start. It tries 3 times and then shuts off. It seems to fire but doens't stay running. It always cranks with the key but does seem to take a little longer than it used to. I just replaced the FPR and thought that would solve it but no. :wtf1: My #1 injector runs between 4+ (never up to 5) when hot and 5&6 are 3+. Everything is under 3 in park. I think it's either the injectors or the CP3. I just picked up EFI Live so what's a good way to confirm or eliminate either? I do have a lift pump running at 2 psi and the engine seems to be running very well with the new FPR, mileage seems to be back up and no smoke and not making oil. All opinions and tests to run will be appreciated. Thanks

Remote start maybe bad.
Depends on the wiring job. If used say clip on connectors like these then I say some have failed to make connection. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?itemIdentifier=421789_0_0_&skuDescription=Dorman+/+Conduct-Tite22-10gaugequickspliceterminalassortment&brandName=Dorman&displayName=Conduct-Tite22-10gaugequickspliceterminalassortment&skuDisplayName=Dorman&categoryNValue=10099999&navValue=100670&categoryDisplayName=Conduct-Tite22-10gaugequickspliceterminalassortment&parentId=00-10&itemId=670-10&productId=421789
Check all connections.

Brian

I would also say your remote start is bad. Seems to me it is not sensing the motor turning over thus it stops trying.

I could be the control unit is going bad but I'm sure it's not the connections since I soldered them all. Figured out how to control the CP3 with EFILive and it's good but boy does that make the engine sound like crap!

Try commanding the CP3 to make 60 mpa of fuel rail pressure, then see how much it actually builds.

You might have a leak in the fuel lines/system around the filter causing the longer crank to get it started.

The lines are under vacuum when the truck is running, so if there is a leak you would not see it because air is going into the system.

best way to find a leak would be so pressurize the system and look for a leak.

I have a lift pump that starts up when the glow plugs go on so I should be up to 2 psi at crank. I just replaced all the lines, but it could be the filter head I guess.

Sorry I did not see that you have a lift pump.

If you had a fuel leak problem the lift pump would be making the fuel leak.

So it does sound like a different problem.

Is it harder to start after it is warm?

i would say that your remote start is bad. IMO they cause more problems then they are worth. i hate remote starters! i don't know how many vehicles i have seen come in where the starter gets taken out by them, or the whole vehicle wiring and security system is messed up. i would just rip the whole remote start system out if it was my truck.

My vote is the remote starter no sensing the motor turning over

:damnit1: :banghead: I just replaced that dang thing a couple of years ago when the first one died. I like the 2 way versions and there aren't many options for that. It gets 100+ most of the summer so I it's nice to let it start to cool off before I get there. It is never cool until you are in the truck for 5-10 minutes even with a head start.

It seems if the truck is pointed down hill it will start. I also hit the remote start and turned on the key and it kept running. I'll tear into the dash and see what's up this weekend.

It seems to me that your lift pump is not working and your filter assembly or fuel lines are sucking air if the truck will start headed downhill. If you open the bleed screw while the ignition is on and the lift pump running, will it pump fuel out of the bleeder screw, my 2 cents===charlie

Charlie, thanks for the suggestion. I'll check that as well. I have put my pressure gauge on the rail and it shows 2 psi but I don't think I watching it while I cranked it.