This vavle is Awsome, The power and jump in fuel milage is worth the $40. I can pull my trailer in 5th gear uphill and still be gaining speed. (Towing in 5th gear is not a smart thing to do,I know! But i had to see if it would do it) Vs stock i could not gain speed. I would pay $100 knowing what i know now,thought i would drop a line and let everbody know....cody

what valve are you talking about? ( who makes it )

Is somebody fishing?????????????????????????/

???

Slightly OT but you can pull in 5th gear with an allison just fine.

You better have a boost gauge any time you start fooling with the wastegate!

the boost valve is sold at the PPE website. Is anyone have a big head wastegate w/ the boost valve? I am considering using both.

You can dial a big head to any psi you want, no need for the valve.

You can also pick up all the parts to make a setup that functions just like that valve for cheap at a hardware store.

I just noticed you have LLY in your sig, you have multipul trucks or whats the deal? If you now have an LB7 we can change your user name for ya to be more fitting.

That boost valve looks nothing more than a restrictor in the wastegate boost line. Clever if it works.
Ratlover, any ideas as to how much restriction would be needed to up the boost a few lbs. I just placed a restrictor in my wastegate line (about 25% smaller vacume fittings) and apparently it was not enough.
Max. Boost did not increase.
Can more restriction be added ( smaller vacume line fittings) and still not get boost creep in the upper RPMS ? :help:

I need the Banks Big Head

I had a booster valve..............before I got the Banks Big Head.........it worked pretty good,

BUT............

Get the Banks Big Head.............:cool:

Bark Bark Bark..... Darn Turbos.

A 'Grainger Valve' can be made to perform the same function for 20.00 in materials and an hour of your time. And it is adjustable. BUT Like any turbo mod... it can be overdone slightly ;)

FWIW I personally know someone who has burned down a few:eek:

Hence the short supply on Ebay):h

There is a not bad looking one on there right now... might want to get it before you start laying the boots to it!:o:

A restrictor in the waistgate line will cause a boost spike but one the waistgate fills it will be open at the same as stock pressure. The downside to this is the restriction slows down opening by the same amount is slows down closing the valve once open. The easy way is to take a 1/4" tube and drill a hole in the side of it about .100" dia . Take the waistgate hose and cut the hose in the middle, clamp the hose on either end of the 1/4" pipe but don't cover the hole. This mod is commonly called the TTS crack pipe. As you enlarge the hole your boost will increase but be careful as too big of a hole and you will join Juice on the Ebay search for turbo's :eek:

get a big head and adjust your boost properly, I ran the bleeders, a home made one and it did work but it did not work as well as a bighead set properly

i've ran both. currently still use both. the big head works well, but adjusting it is a PITA for me with an EGR truck. i set the bighead where i wan't my boost to be with NOS (with bleeder closed). when i run #2 only, i open the bleeder a couple turns. it vents through a hose to the PS battery area as i didn't like the whistle it made with no hose.

tried the restriction thing- been there done that doesn't do squat until you close it 99.9% of the way then watch out as the wastegate doesn't do much then.

i have also used one of steve's crack pipe bleeders and it worked fine. only removed it as i couldn't adjust it. but you can't beat it for what it costs. i think one comes with the extreme too.

I didnt get a crack pipe in with my Xtreme:( , just the crack):h Man is it addicting:D

The little restriction deal has a bleed on the other side I believe. The restriction makes it adjustable......I believe.

what about a 01 non egr duramax not running nitro. just water/meth? Would it be better to just get the banks?

Or neither. A simple bleed deal can be made for cheap if you so chose, or move your WG line post intercooler, or just leave it stock and dont worry about it. A banks wont hurt though but its $$$.

Just a word to the wise. Water meth is fine if done right but IMO its the easiest thing to screw your motor up with if you arnt carefull.

Why would you make a full time leak? At .100" (down from previously suggested .125") you are letting an aweful lot of the air in the wastegate line to escape based on the size of the ID in the elbow.

Why would you make a full time leak?

I'll try to explain it slooooow for you to understand. Try to stay with me OK? If you have a small leak in the signal line for the wastegate the wastegate diaphram wont have as much pressure on it as in the rest of the system(all the stuff feeding the motor). This means the wastegate thinks there is less pressure than there is so it will stay closed longer since its not "seeing" enough boost for it to think its time to open. It stays closed longer so it makes more boost! More boost is better! YEA! Everyone cheer for more boost and only paying a few cents for it!!!!

At .100" ......... you are letting an aweful lot of the air in the wastegate line to escape based on the size of the ID in the elbow.

Thats the point! To let out enough air so the WG sees less boost! were going somewere now huh!? Outa curiosity what is your defination of "an aweful lot of air" and what are the downsideds? How much air will one bleed by(pick a few different psi levels as it will change) and what are the results going to be?

(down from previously suggested .125")

Is your question and I think Steve does a pretty good job of explaining it here. Start small and go bigger. Whats so hard to understand?

....... The easy way is to take a 1/4" tube and drill a hole in the side of it about .100" dia . As you enlarge the hole your boost will increase but be careful as too big of a hole and you will join Juice on the Ebay search for turbo's :eek:

:)

Hey, Ebay ain't half bad.... Turbos from 50-250.00
The best one i bought was obtained for 50.00!!!!!
Almost as new as the one that i linked John to!

I have a ton of these, and you can use a nitrous jet to adjust up of down.

http://sporttruck.com/howto/p113172_image_large.jpg

Heck of alot more bling than a TTS crack pipe ):h

Guess I'm slow. I can't see why we'd want to waste the very air that we are pumping. I realize that the orifice size is small, but still a waste of precious boost.

I have a nifty little valve on mine (no it's not as cheap) that works very well and does not create a full time leak...

Guess I'm slow. I can't see why we'd want to waste the very air that we are pumping. I realize that the orifice size is small, but still a waste of precious boost.

I have a nifty little valve on mine (no it's not as cheap) that works very well and does not create a full time leak...

But it still creates a leak when the boost is up, right. So your loosing air as well! :eek: You seem to forget we are loosing air we cannot use anyway!

What I have done is by no means new or trick, it is what it was supposed to be......... a simple yet effective boost enhancement device. Cost is about $2.00 for the piece of tube and two clamps. Elowes65 does the same thing and it by all means is much nicer looking but does nothing more than mine. If you want to get real trick buy an ice maker 20 turn valve. Install it in the line and open the valve the desired amount to raise the boost. This is what we installed on Diesel Powers truck so he can change the boost to meet his requirments quick and easy. The valves are about $5.00 at Home Depot.

But it still creates a leak when the boost is up, right. So your loosing air as well! :eek: You seem to forget we are loosing air we cannot use anyway!

What I have done is by no means new or trick, it is what it was supposed to be......... a simple yet effective boost enhancement device. Cost is about $2.00 for the piece of tube and two clamps. Elowes65 does the same thing and it by all means is much nicer looking but does nothing more than mine. If you want to get real trick buy an ice maker 20 turn valve. Install it in the line and open the valve the desired amount to raise the boost. This is what we installed on Diesel Powers truck so he can change the boost to meet his requirments quick and easy. The valves are about $5.00 at Home Depot.

:ro) Although if you make the lines longer you can have 'Dial-A-Boost' In Cab!

With one Caveat: there is a slight delay with longer tubing.

Better Still is this setup http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/perform/

But it still creates a leak when the boost is up, right. So your loosing air as well! :eek: You seem to forget we are loosing air we cannot use anyway!

What I have done is by no means new or trick, it is what it was supposed to be......... a simple yet effective boost enhancement device. Cost is about $2.00 for the piece of tube and two clamps. Elowes65 does the same thing and it by all means is much nicer looking but does nothing more than mine. If you want to get real trick buy an ice maker 20 turn valve. Install it in the line and open the valve the desired amount to raise the boost. This is what we installed on Diesel Powers truck so he can change the boost to meet his requirments quick and easy. The valves are about $5.00 at Home Depot.

Air we cannot use? I thought we were out of air. Turbo destruction is what we are concerned about here and if we can keep all of our air until a predetermined point nears would it not be truly beneficial?

How many CFM are you losing at say 32 PSI boost pre IC at sea level with a .100" and a .125" orfice placed in the WG line???

John, I assume you are talking about a one way check valve like this http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LR&Product_Code=944-TBE-1

Air we cannot use? I thought we were out of air. Turbo destruction is what we are concerned about here and if we can keep all of our air until a predetermined point nears would it not be truly beneficial?


Ok... I'm going to break it down barney style for ya ;)

The introduced "leak" into the system is irrelavent because of the fact that either way, that air would have been escaping due to the pressure opening the wastegate and limiting the total PSI load of the post-turbo manifold.

See what I'm getting at? Either way you're losing some air, but by putting a "hole" in the system your air leak ends up closing the wastegate until a higher pressure is achieved thereby INCREASING the total PSI load of the post turbo manifold.

Sorta wierd, but it's doing the exact same thing as the Big Head actuator, except that instead of a stronger spring on the actuator, you're decreasing the amount of available pressure to the weak stock spring.. decrease the pressure, it's not going to open as quickly... thereby building more pressure.

You need to be very careful with some of the valves customers have brought by for me to look at. There is one being sold that is a one way valve that is spring loaded so that no boost signal is allowed to the wastegate until you get beond the preset spring pressure. Then once it opens it allows the pressure through. While this does raise the boost it also trap the air in the wastgate holding it open, which lowers the boost! So you get a rise in boost until it opens but once open it holds the wastgate open... not good.

Ratlover, Same concept, less $$$ cleaner, simpler design and tuned for our levels.

Sooner or later with all the links and suggestions posted, someone will "scoop" the idea so I guess it would just stick to the units on mine and Brandon's trucks. It's already done a pretty good job of quashing the desire to use the unit mentioned in the original post...

I ran one of the dudes I had in the link....I definatly wasnt set initialy for our boost levels. Never saw a neddel swing so fast :eek: I dialed it down to keep from competing with Juice on Ebay. I sold it to a kid with a SRT4. I dint really see much of a difference.

Steve I suppose one could place a small bleed hole after the valve so you wouldnt trap pressure between the WG diaphram and the little widget valve but then you would be leaking off precious boost :D

Steve I suppose one could place a small bleed hole after the valve so you wouldnt trap pressure between the WG diaphram and the little widget valve but then you would be leaking off precious boost :D

But we cannot have a boost leak.......... can we? :rolleyes:

I ran one of the dudes I had in the link....I definatly wasnt set initialy for our boost levels. Never saw a neddel swing so fast :eek: I dialed it down to keep from competing with Juice on Ebay. I sold it to a kid with a SRT4. I dint really see much of a difference.

:D

No difference? I sure saw a difference! I was swapping in a difference turbo not too long afterwards.... oh.... bad sound..... too much this time. www.ebay.com (http://www.ebay.com) moment):h

I ment I didnt see much difference with it adjusted so you saw a sane boost level;) In theory depending how you set it it shouldnt change peak at all just improve throttle response on low end spool up. In reality??? Especially since at WOT the thing spools quick enough and never trys to drop. You could set it to gain a few PSI though I suppose, but I figured why when I'm running spray anywho. Past 10PSI my turbo comes on fast. I just couldnt really tell any SOP difference in spooling and definatly none in max power

so can anyone tell me the best way to adjust the big head wastegate ?:help:

Dont ask Juice!

Dont ask Juice!):h :grd: :lol:

^^'s

so can anyone tell me the best way to adjust the big head wastegate ?:help:

If it's already installed and you want to turn it up, the easy way is to hookup a line to the wastgate and feed about 30 psi to it of compressed air. This will take the spring tension off the gate an allow you to remove the mounting bracket. Then adjust the gate and reinstall the mounting bracket. This way you do not need to release the E clip and pull the pin out. Hope this helps.

You could also use the patented Juice grips but there is no safe mode with this mod.

You could also use the patented Juice grips but there is no safe mode with this mod.:grd: Juicegrips(TM):ro)


And please do not exceed 35 PSIG post CAC.

Most IHI turbos are quite happy 32-35 post as long as they aren't barking like a whupped dog (read: walk out of your burnouts without chopping the throttle ETC)

Beyond 35 is where big problems lay. 35 is safe to 3400' ASL. STP conditions. for every 1000' rise in elevation reduce the 35LB number by .5lbs boost; really arid conditions, go 1 PSIG for every 1000' Elev Above Sea Level.

That's quite safe.

But we cannot have a boost leak.......... can we? :rolleyes:

That isn't a full time boost leak...

That isn't a full time boost leak...

A boost leak is a boost leak get over it. If you were half as smart as you think you are you would know there is already a limiter in the fitting on the compressor housing so if you were to remove the hose completely you can still make 35 + psi with a good program. So how much is the leak hurting you.................. not enough that you can event measure the difference!

WOW :eek: , vendors going at it..... :boxing:

Yeah, but if I make a snip like that it gets deleted...

Popcorn anyone.............):h

:cool:

Popcorn anyone.............):h

:cool:No Salt, No Butter, Must save room for the beer. Tony, want a beer?