I picked up a M1009 CUCV K5 Blazer it supposedly has a bad flywheel but when I was under it there was only one stater bolt and no brace so maybe I will get lucky

My question is where can I find starter bolts and the brace. Does the dealer still carry stuff for this dinosaur?

If any body has a pic of this bracket that would be great

I guess I am a 6.2 member now:D

Pics? I want a cool ass old diesel!

Here is the craigslist ad I am picking it up on Saturday and will get better pics

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1877550983.html

My question is where can I find starter bolts and the brace. Does the dealer still carry stuff for this dinosaur?


Yes

nice find

Just got back from the dealer and they had the starter bolts and the bracket. I hope the bolt isn't broken in the block It will be sweet if thats all it needs I can't imagine one bolt working to well. I was able to move the starter some so maybe once it is solid she will crank right over:)

jeeze, all the darn Dmax guys invading into the IDI forums :p:

Nice score! My M1009 draws almost as much attention and comments as my '69 Camaro SS does!

If it does need a flywheel (knock or ping from within the torque converter cover) don't put off installing a new one. Transmissions generally don't like to work right when cracked. And if you do, don't go used. NIB flexplates can usually be had at chain autoparts stores for around $50-60.

It definitetly need a flywheel it is chewed up bad and the starter bolt is broke in the block.

I took the cooler lines off the transmission do I just leave them hanging or can I pull them completely out of the way.

What do you guys recommend for a drill bit and an ez out

I had no luck with an ezout. I ended up drilling the bolt out just undersized (9mm I think??) and retapping the thread.

Here are the pics it has some rust


http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/Kevinl_23/101_0211.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/Kevinl_23/101_0212.jpghttp://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/Kevinl_23/101_0213.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/Kevinl_23/101_0214.jpghttp://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/Kevinl_23/101_0215.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/Kevinl_23/101_0216.jpg

Go get yourself some left hand drill bits, Ive drilled out 2 starter bolts on a 6.5l using these and the bits themselves ended up backing the bolt out without even having to touch it with a e-z-out.

I used a heli coil setup when I snapped my starter bolt. It's 7/16th by (something something). As for those Tx cooler lines, make sure to cap them with something as to avoid contaminates, and easy on the "bending them out of the way." Just a thought, but I've used ratcheting straps to move my trans back. Just sent them around the frame and under the trans. Using a 2x12 board would allow for more movement of the trans as well, making it, for lack of a better word, easier to get that old flywheel out.

Forgot to add, but x2 on the LH bits. They work like a charm

What are you reffering to about the ratchet straps I was just going to un bolt the cross member and slide it back a few inches with a jack

That will work too. I used the straps because with my truck at stock height, and my "transmission jack" being a trans adapter (harbor freight) on a 3 ton jack, the whole setup was too tall. The straps were easy and allowed more movement of the trans, opposed to the "rocking" motion the jack gave me. But don't do anything you're not comfortable with. Dropping a 700r4 on your head sucks, almost as much as waking up to find you cracked the bellhousing on your skull.

I think I got the idea now Thats a good idea Last thing I want is the tranny falling off the jack on the ground or on me

yea make sure you do it safe..take it from a guy with several trans knots on his head already..good thing i have so few brain cells left to damage

You still have brain cells? ...noob

I got the broken starter bolt out I got real lucky

I bought a punch from harbor freight and it just bent before it even made a mark so I used the left handed drill bit and drilled two small holes one on each side and used the punch to spin it out.

I just need to get the bellhousing bolts out and the crossmember and the dipstick and she will be ready to pull

Any trick to getting the passenger side upper bellhousing bolt I cant even see it let alone get a socket on it

A long extension, or two 6-8" extensions, 9/16th socket, and a universal joint. It's up there, but you'll get it. The fun part is gonna be threading the new one in

:muahaha:

I got it out lowering the tranny made a huge difference tranny is slid back now time to remove the old flywheel

What is the torque spec for the flywheel? Do I use lock tite?

You can, I didn't, but the military manual for that engine says 65ft/lbs for the flywheel to crank bolts.

She's alive just need put the driveshafts back on and take her for a drive

the motor sounds great

vid it up.

Well it runs like crap. Not sure where to start I don't know anything about 6.2's

It would do 50 tops and as I got back to my house I almost didn't make it up a little hill

probably time to work on old fuel system..start at removing and cleaning tanks..then dont stop till all rubber lines,filters have been changed and fresh fuel..put a clear hose at i/p return line..then try again

Ok, well, what are your signs and symptoms? Is it smoking, missing, knocking (not nessecarily a rod knock, dont worry), or any other odd function? A vid of it running got these white devils to diagnose that I needed a new injection pump. Posting a video of yours running should get you in the rright direction. It could be as simple as retarded timing; three bolts loose, a little turn here, three bolts tight, and baddabing!

Fuel filter. They need frequent (at least once a year, more in my opinion) fuel filter changes. Quick reasonably cheap and effective.

Trying to upload a video now No bubbles in the return

Also it does seem to be missing under a load and anymore than half throttle is pointless because it doesn't have any more power

Heres the video



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NgwwMj3YkA

I'd try advancing the pump timing a degree or so. See if that helps.

I'd try advancing the pump timing a degree or so. See if that helps.

Im stupid how do you do that?:p:

I know there are bolts that need to be loosened but where are the timing marks located

I advance the timing a little bit It seemed to help overall but I am still getting a stumbling/missing between 25 and 30 mph per hour


I did make it up to 65 mph today

Have you checked your advance lever to see if it's sticking (opposite throttle on IP. There's a rocking cam that moves a lever which pushes a pin.) It could be that the advance pin is stuck pushed in. My lever needs frequent jig-a-loo cause I think the face cam is worn away somwhat

I will try that tonight

I tried the advance when I pull on the throttle it moves a little bit it doesn't move anymore once its past half throttle.

Is that right or no?

That sounds about right. Can you see if the pin is stuck in after you let off the throttle. The pin may not return although it's usually the opposite problem. I don't know if it was in your other post but someone suggested a real healthy dose of Power service to clean up an IP and to get the advance to stop sticking. It may be worth a try.
It seems like a timing problem to me since it doesn't smoke all the time, only with a bit of juice. Your timing chain may be stretched too much but they have a lot of give and take. The spec is up to 1/2 " of deflection for a new chain and up to .8" used.

Where Would I want to put the powerservice which supply line? The out line on the fuel filter?

No idea. That fellow suggested gravity feed. If it were me I'd put the fuel line fom before the pump in a jug of PS and let that run through. WARNING WARNING WARNING I have never done this. I'm pretty sure pure PS won't hurt anything but I'm not certain.

I have filled fuel filters with it before I am not worried I don't have anything to lose

Is the filter after the lift pump or before it

After

Well I made some more progress I picked up a new fuel filter diesel kleen to treat 250 gallons and 5 gals of new diesel it seems to be running alright I have no idea what a 6.2 should run like so I cant say for sure but the missing/choking out seems to be mostly gone.


One issue is when should a turbo 400 shift out of first it doesn't shift till like 35 mph I think I have a vacuum issue

I THINK one you get past half throttle that's where its at its full advance. If I remember from looking at the cam when I installed mine. Someone else might know for sure.

these vac pump are a b!tch. It's back where a distributor is on a gasser. TH400 should shift somewhere around 20-30kmh/12-20 mph. At least that's where mine does and that's how I like it it shifts firm but not hard. Check your vac it should be 20" or over and go up with throttle. There's a black doodad called a vac regulator on the side of the IP. at the outlet of that vac should be 14" and go DOWN with throttle.

Well I drove her around some more tonight I got her on the highway and was able to do 65 with out being floored so I guess thats good 65 Mph is all I ask of her. I want to drive it to work one day but for some reason 110 degrees and no A/C doesn't sound to appealing:p:

Try riding in the back of an enclosed cab E-One Hurricane fire engine in South Carolina. No A/C, you sit against the engine hump (Series 60), and some a-hole stole the vice grips on your window regulator. I'll take a no A/C Blazer any day.

I have a question I was reading on another forum that the engine should sound marbly at idle. mine seems very quiet for a 6.2. Do I need more timing

Does it run ok?

If it ain't broke, don't fixit!


:beerchug:

Maybe. Go on youtube and listen to how some sound. They all sound different. A little more time isn't bad but too much will cause hard hot starts. A test is to push your advance lever in manually and listen for a stumble. Stumble is good.If the engine just slows a litlle you're too far advanced. If there's no change then the advance doesn't work and neither does the test

Drove it to work today started out good but as I got closer to work (a 30 mile trip) it felt like it had less power

Maybe. Go on youtube and listen to how some sound. They all sound different. A little more time isn't bad but too much will cause hard hot starts. A test is to push your advance lever in manually and listen for a stumble. Stumble is good.If the engine just slows a litlle you're too far advanced. If there's no change then the advance doesn't work and neither does the test

Well I tried that and the engine pretty much sounds the same if there is any change it is miniscule. What does that mean

It means your light load advance is probably done. It's pretty common but not the end of the world. Besides getting a timing test done at a diesel shop I don't know any other test.

How do I fix the advance? I assume its important. It definitely was down on power after being driven for a while. I will see on my way home if it does the same thing

You need to get the IP rebuilt. What happens is that the sleeve gets worn out so the pin doesn't reall affect anything. An oversized pin needs to go in which involves totally dismantling your IP and resizing at which point you're into a rebuild. It's important but many drive for 1000's of miles and because it goes gradually they never notice.

Well this pump is shot for sure I made it 5 miles from work before it wouldn't barely run I pulled the return fitting once again full of crap broke the glass ball out and drove on. and to top it off one of the brand new tires blew out on the way home and there is no spare had to borrow one from my wifes mom's tacoma.

I am trying to stay positive but so far this thing sucks:p:

Also if someone has a known good used pump I may be interested its either that or Ebay. no way am I paying $700 for a pump when this thing will be driven a couple thousand miles a year. Plus at the rate I am going the tranny or engine will blow next week

Check tghe market place top of the 6.2 page