Dragging rear caliper [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Dragging rear caliper


TheFabricator
08-04-2010, 02:15 PM
did a search, couldn't come up with much on this.

Did my rear brakes the other day, and aside from it being a pain to get the rotors off, I can't get the caliper guide pins out for the life of me. Only thing I havn't tried, is applying lots of heat.

I had heard a squealing from the rear brakes prior to doing the rotors, and now am suspicious that one or more of the guide pins may be sized or causing the caliper to drag.

Anyways I couldn't get the caliper off to change the pads, so I still have the crappy old pads on brand new rotors. Does anyone have any suggestions to get these caliper guide pins out, so I can change my pads?!

Thanks in advance

cheddy
08-04-2010, 03:00 PM
Unless they have changed the caliper design from 01 you can separate the two halves of the caliper frame and put new pads in without removing the pins.
The old pads and pins will stay with the piston as the part with the stainless pad supports is slid out.
The rubber boots around the pins can be gently freed from the pin and will stay with the part you are removing.
If your old pads are wedged tight on the stainless slides you will have to use a little persuasion to get them apart.

When reasembling I have found the brake pad squealer will sometimes catch so I usually break them off as they don't really serve any usefull purpose anyway.
Make sure your bleed screw is free and both pistons are free before you get too far along as this will be your sign that you need new calipers anyway. They are pretty cheap for these trucks .

TheFabricator
08-04-2010, 03:06 PM
Unless they have changed the caliper design from 01 you can separate the two halves of the caliper frame and put new pads in without removing the pins.
The old pads and pins will stay with the piston as the part with the stainless pad supports is slid out.
The rubber boots around the pins can be gently freed from the pin and will stay with the part you are removing.
If your old pads are wedged tight on the stainless slides you will have to use a little persuasion to get them apart.

When reasembling I have found the brake pad squealer will sometimes catch so I usually break them off as they don't really serve any usefull purpose anyway.
Make sure your bleed screw is free and both pistons are free before you get too far along as this will be your sign that you need new calipers anyway. They are pretty cheap for these trucks .



Good advice, I will give it a shot. Dunno why I didn't think of that earlier

grandpa truck
08-04-2010, 04:13 PM
Use a torch...heat!

Also search heymccall post on brakes. Very helpful in doing the job the correct way.

mrsleeve
08-06-2010, 02:45 PM
pull the bracket bolts, take off the flex line, take it to the bench and weld a nut on to each of the slider pins remove with impact. Replace with new pins with 18mm hex head on them and lube the shit outta them.

Joeairforce
08-06-2010, 02:59 PM
Moved to Drivetrain

woodchuck2
08-09-2010, 11:54 PM
Unless they have changed the caliper design from 01 you can separate the two halves of the caliper frame and put new pads in without removing the pins.
The old pads and pins will stay with the piston as the part with the stainless pad supports is slid out.
The rubber boots around the pins can be gently freed from the pin and will stay with the part you are removing.
If your old pads are wedged tight on the stainless slides you will have to use a little persuasion to get them apart.

When reasembling I have found the brake pad squealer will sometimes catch so I usually break them off as they don't really serve any usefull purpose anyway.
Make sure your bleed screw is free and both pistons are free before you get too far along as this will be your sign that you need new calipers anyway. They are pretty cheap for these trucks .
X3, much easier to do this after they have soaked in the salt for several yrs.