i just finished up a bunch of work on my truck.
had it off the road for a couple of weeks.
removed bed - ground rust off frame and used chassis paint.
replaced rusty fuel and brake lines.
replaced all brakes - ground rotors and installed all new OEM pads and hardware.
installed new e brake shoes. however, drivers side back plate rusted thru at pin. i put a washer over pin hoping it would hold for a while. it didnt - everything fell apart and chewed up the new shoes. i only drove it for 1/2mi 2 days ago.
so
i removed the shoes from the drivers side.
i made sure there was no tension on the pass side e brake.
i did notice that i had to make the e brake drag a little to get them tight enough to hold the truck when applied. - expecting that they'll wear in.
i also noticed that the stainless steel sheet metal hardware (new OEM) on the calipers - the new ones seemed to be tight to the pads. both front and rear calipers
so the pads dont slide very easy. it is possible that the pads are compressed, but when released, maybe they are not sliding open enough.
today i drove it 20mi.
i found that the front wheels/hubs were warm, but not roasting hot.
the rear drivers side was too hot to touch the aluminum wheel, the passenger side rear wheel, was scorching hot. i could smell overheated brakes at the rear hubs. you know the smell ? - following a heavy truck down hill, when they hit the brakes.
im wondering if i have one or both things happening - passenger side e brake dragging too much, pads too tight on the sliding hardwarepcs and not releasing.
any ideas?
jon

and also could be bad rubber brake lines not letting fluid return.

i had the bed off the truck.
i replaced the entire rear brake line.
i installed 3 new OEM rubber hoses - the center, and the 2 that go out to the calipers.
i then bleed - flushed fluid 100% clean with amsoil dot 3 fluid.
then i had a shop run it on a scan tool.
manual hydraulic bleed then -
computer bleed?
no reason the lines are a problem.
jon

The pads must be loose or they will drag especially after corrosion sets in. I have had to file a substantial amount of material of of any new pads to get a loose fit. I would do it to all 4 corners asap.

The p-brake on your pass side may be dragging also. The only sure way to make sure the p-brake isn't partially on is to climb under and pound on lever cable is hooked to. Back off the adjuster as well if it isn't frozen.

I assume you know this but with shoes removed on one side the other side will not work as the cable will never tighten.

I just put all new p-brake assemblies on both sides of mine recently. Gm sells this as a whole unit with new shoes backing plates and all hardware including a pretty large chunk of cast iron. Gotta pull axles and hubs to install.

The pads must be loose or they will drag especially after corrosion sets in. I have had to file a substantial amount of material of of any new pads to get a loose fit. I would do it to all 4 corners asap.
+1 on this. I just did my rears and axle seals. I had to beat the original pads out of the brackets with a hammer. Frozen in solid. File and test fit.