Went to Pismo for 10 days and on sat I went to go watch the quad drags. I ended up racing my truck (didn't lose a single race :-) )

Now the carnage... after I left the drags I went up a hill heard a loud bang and than the truck died. The bang was the carrier bearing bolts and nuts being ripped right thru the housing. Than it hit my fuel cooler destroying it. Pouring out diesel. At least no one seen lol

Anyone know why the carrier bearing bolts ripped right thru the bracket? I have all the proper spacers for my lift. Has anyone else have this problem?

Also do they sell a more heavy duty carrier bearing?

Went to Pismo for 10 days and on sat I went to go watch the quad drags. I ended up racing my truck (didn't lose a single race :-) )

Now the carnage... after I left the drags I went up a hill heard a loud bang and than the truck died. The bang was the carrier bearing bolts and nuts being ripped right thru the housing. Than it hit my fuel cooler destroying it. Pouring out diesel. At least no one seen lol

Anyone know why the carrier bearing bolts ripped right thru the bracket? I have all the proper spacers for my lift. Has anyone else have this problem?

Also do they sell a more heavy duty carrier bearing?

Tough to say man, ive seen VERY VERY FEW carrier bearing failures in which the bolts where to blame in any application from ford rangers to peterbilts, usually the bearing itself fails and mangles stuff. Unless someone had put the wrong (to small) bolts in, or put bolts in with no washers, or the bolts where a little loose. Whatever happened im sure being out in the sand there was probably a bit of wheel hop involved.

I don't really get any wheel hop unless I have full tire pressure. The bolts are the right size. The only thing I could think of was that the nut which was on the upper side only had a lock washer. Maybe there should of been a washer on top too...? Because both the lock washer and nut where pulled thru. Now I have a 2 inch washer with a 1 1/2 inch washer than the lock washer. If it pulls that true I dunno... lol I think I may just weld a 1/4inch solid steel plate to the housing, so it never pulls it thru again.

I don't really get any wheel hop unless I have full tire pressure. The bolts are the right size. The only thing I could think of was that the nut which was on the upper side only had a lock washer. Maybe there should of been a washer on top too...? Because both the lock washer and nut where pulled thru. Now I have a 2 inch washer with a 1 1/2 inch washer than the lock washer. If it pulls that true I dunno... lol I think I may just weld a 1/4inch solid steel plate to the housing, so it never pulls it thru again.


Those slots that the bolts go thru are pretty healthily oversized, and the factory nuts have a pretty wide "flat washer" incorporated into them. You should probably be ok with some good sized washers. I initially though you meant it tore the bracked on the Carrier bearing, if it pulled through the slots on the cross member is was likely an issue of not having a big enough washer.

I don't really get any wheel hop unless I have full tire pressure. The bolts are the right size. The only thing I could think of was that the nut which was on the upper side only had a lock washer. Maybe there should of been a washer on top too...? Because both the lock washer and nut where pulled thru. Now I have a 2 inch washer with a 1 1/2 inch washer than the lock washer. If it pulls that true I dunno... lol I think I may just weld a 1/4inch solid steel plate to the housing, so it never pulls it thru again.
While you are repairing, you might as well upgrade. A polyurethane unit would stand up to a lot more abuse and overall keep the driveline "centered". The stock rubber unit flops all over the place. I don't think the bearing itself is any different than standard GM, but the outer surround is 100X better than stock:

Carrier_bearing_thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=379730&highlight=carrier+bearing)

While you are repairing, you might as well upgrade. A polyurethane unit would stand up to a lot more abuse and overall keep the driveline "centered". The stock rubber unit flops all over the place. I don't think the bearing itself is any different than standard GM, but the outer surround is 100X better than stock:

Carrier_bearing_thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=379730&highlight=carrier+bearing)


Save your money, you can buy almost 3 stockers for what that Poly one costs, and if the bearing itself isnt any different its added longevity is going to be marginal at best.

Save your money, you can buy almost 3 stockers for what that Poly one costs, and if the bearing itself isnt any different its added longevity is going to be marginal at best.
Why not leave your stock wheels/tires on? Why do exhaust mods? Why a tuner? Synthetics? Because there is ALWAYS something better than stock.

And, you're partially right, the bearing - like I said - is probably nothing special. But, the firm hold at the middle of the driveline is much better than the sloppy rubber piece. You can grab the driveline with a new stock bearing unit and still move it all around within it's limits.

With the poly - you can't really move it much - if at all, but it still absorbs the vibes.

So, again, for those of us that want the BEST for our rigs, $205 is no big deal.