Anyone have any idea? I just noticed this tonight.

I'm betting a Torn CV boot.

Cracked cv joint boot. Very common. Some replace boot, but kind of a pain because you have to dissasemble the cv joint. I replaced my entire axle shaft with a lifetime waranty napa unit when mine strted leaking. Takes very little time to replace the shaft.

Ya it looks like a cracked or torn boot, you can replace it in like 15 min with the right tools.

That's kind of what I was thinking.

I could probably fix the boot, I've replaced them on UTVs. Are there any special tools needed?

How long can I go with it like this? I'm taking a 1,000 mile trip in 10 days. Will it need to get fixed before then?

If I am able to fix just the boot, what kind of grease do I need to pack in there with the new boot?

Thanks for the help.

It's about as easy and expensive to replace the whole shaft I believe.

I just got home from a big trip and my left front wheel assembly looks EXACTLY like your pictures. I just had the upper ball joint replaced in New York and the tech greased everything else up there while he was at it. I'm going to tear into into tonight to find the problem. I'll try to post what I find.

It's about as easy and expensive to replace the whole shaft I believe.

I looked on GMPartsGiant.com. The boot was $67, the whole shaft was $507.

Shafts from O'reilly's are used pretty often with good results. Hopefully someone who has used one will post up

That's kind of what I was thinking.

I could probably fix the boot, I've replaced them on UTVs. Are there any special tools needed?

How long can I go with it like this? I'm taking a 1,000 mile trip in 10 days. Will it need to get fixed before then?

If I am able to fix just the boot, what kind of grease do I need to pack in there with the new boot?

Thanks for the help.

The only special tool you need is the crimping tool to cinch the band clamps at either end of the boot, the boot kit should include a tube of gresae.

I think my autozone replacement was around $90 for the entire shaft with a lifetime warranty. I even kept my old one at small deposit fee since it wasn't too bad and will get me off a trail if I smash one of them.

To replace the whole axle, you just need the 36mm socket. Then some basic sockets.....15mm I think?

Is the band clamp still on the outside? Hard to see it in the pictures if it is. If it isn't there I have had good luck with a big wide zip tie to hold the boot on. Would keep from having to pull everything apart.

If it is a torn boot have fun. It isn't too bad to get the shaft out.

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll check with O'reilly and see what they can get me one for.

Mine appears to be a torn CV boot, O'Reilly quoted $70 for the replacement shaft.

yah ask them how much the core charge is. i did mine in may and the core charge was $175 the part was only $115.

well, it's not my CV boot, it's the upper ball joint boot. It looks like the grease was dropping onto the CV joint and getting flung around. I checked the CV boot for leaks and didn't find anything, looked up and saw fresh grease coming out of the ball joint boot/cover. I pushed the ball joint boot/cover and sure enough, fresh grease squeezed out.

Anyone fixed this before?

Exact same problem - upper ball joint - not the CV boot afterall. I just had this ball joint replaced last Saturday morning in Van Buren, NY and it now has a tear in the boot. Also, it has pushed itself back up and out of where it was pressed in. The only thing holding it is the retaining clip undeneath the control arm. Price from O'Reilly is $60 for the Moog's with lifetime warranty. I'll be grabbing a set tommorrow - probably do all of them since I'm there. All the tech used in NY was a ball joint press and a little swearing.

The CVs are full of grease like that?

Exact same problem - upper ball joint - not the CV boot afterall. I just had this ball joint replaced last Saturday morning in Van Buren, NY and it now has a tear in the boot. Also, it has pushed itself back up and out of where it was pressed in. The only thing holding it is the retaining clip undeneath the control arm. Price from O'Reilly is $60 for the Moog's with lifetime warranty. I'll be grabbing a set tommorrow - probably do all of them since I'm there. All the tech used in NY was a ball joint press and a little swearing.


Let me know how it goes, I'll be needing to do it soon.

If you feel like it, write up a DIY :D

yep you got yourself a torn boot. just get the cv boot kit not the whole shaft.

well, it's not my CV boot, it's the upper ball joint boot. It looks like the grease was dropping onto the CV joint and getting flung around. I checked the CV boot for leaks and didn't find anything, looked up and saw fresh grease coming out of the ball joint boot/cover. I pushed the ball joint boot/cover and sure enough, fresh grease squeezed out.

Anyone fixed this before?
That sucks.

The CVs are full of grease like that?
Yes.

yep you got yourself a torn boot. just get the cv boot kit not the whole shaft.
Read above in Red, it's been determined it's not a Torn CV boot. ;)

Exact same problem - upper ball joint - not the CV boot afterall. I just had this ball joint replaced last Saturday morning in Van Buren, NY and it now has a tear in the boot. Also, it has pushed itself back up and out of where it was pressed in. The only thing holding it is the retaining clip undeneath the control arm. Price from O'Reilly is $60 for the Moog's with lifetime warranty. I'll be grabbing a set tommorrow - probably do all of them since I'm there. All the tech used in NY was a ball joint press and a little swearing.

There is a history of these ball joints not staying in once they have been pressed out and a new one pressed in. They sell the whole control arm ball joint assembly it address it. I ran into that same problem two years ago.

Must have not read that one oh well. Sorry to hear it should be an inexpensive fix though.

There is a history of these ball joints not staying in once they have been pressed out and a new one pressed in. They sell the whole control arm ball joint assembly it address it. I ran into that same problem two years ago.

Well, this is concerning me. If the new ball joints pop out doesn't that cause a lot of damage or even wreck??

I have the equipment to replace just the ball joint, but should I just get the whole upper control arm? Ball joint is $31, upper control arm is $130, both from O'reilly.

Well, this is concerning me. If the new ball joints pop out doesn't that cause a lot of damage or even wreck??

I have the equipment to replace just the ball joint, but should I just get the whole upper control arm? Ball joint is $31, upper control arm is $130, both from O'reilly.

Get the whole arm. I tried to do just the ball joint once and it popped out. The tire doesn't fall off, but wobbles around from the top not being held tight. I talked to the parts store and a alignment shop to find out why. Got the same answer "happens all the time" and the shop said they would only use the whole assembly.

X2

that looks like a lot of grease for just a ball joint. Which is my guess why it burst it was over filled they only need to be a LITTLE firm. I wouldn't replace the A-arm for a torn boot at least run it until the ball joint goes bad. I tore one of my lower ones off road and just cleaned it up real good and "fixed" it up with some rubber cement. I didn't put much grease in it just so it wouldn't let go again.

Get the whole control arm because the ball joint should be pressed in already, I thought its all one package?

I almost completed one side upper and lower ball joint replacement tonight. The mosquitos set in and drove me out of the garage! I had to beat the lower ball joint out with a 2 lbs sledge since my ball joint press wouldn't budge it. I heated the control arm with a propane torch to help get it out and to ease the new one in. I did however find the dust plate, the brake rotor, brake pads and the tie rod end are all trashed as well. This is going to get expensive in a hurry. At least the hub and axle shaft appear to be in good shape still.

I'm going ahead and replacing the bad (new) upper joint since I'm in there already. I hope to contact the garage that did the work for me and have them at least refund the price of the ball joint. I may even push for more since I agree they overfilled it with grease. Should get intersesting.

The CVs are full of grease like that?
Why wouldn't they be?

will I NEED an alignment after I replace the upper control arm???

I ask because I need new tires on my summer wheels, but I don't plan on getting them until this winter while they are sitting in the shop. I would like to wait until next spring to get it aligned

will I NEED an alignment after I replace the upper control arm???

I ask because I need new tires on my summer wheels, but I don't plan on getting them until this winter while they are sitting in the shop. I would like to wait until next spring to get it aligned

Any time you change anything on the front it should have the alignment checked.

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