I have an '03 2500HD with 130k. Last yr in April (118k) I did pads and rotors for the 1st time. At the time I didn't know about the corrosion problem behind clips, so I just threw on the pads and rotors and away I went. I just got rear ended in my other car, so I was testing the stopping power of the Dmax and it just didn't seem to stop quick in panic mode. So I did some research here and found out about the clips. I only had time to do the rears tonite so I stopped and bought another set of rear pads so the swap could be easy (lifetime warranty). Anyway, as I thought the outside pads were stuck in place. I couldn't even move them with the bracket on the workbench. Calipers moved fine. So I took off the clips, cleaned behind them and the clips themselves. I painted the area I cleaned up and let dry. While drying, I sucked out the brake fluid out of resivour and topped off with fresh stuff. I then installed the new pads with brake grease on the clips and pins and re-assembled. Testing showed the pads moved freely with one finger and the caliper would also move free with only top T-55 in (seemed tight with bottom in). I then went for a 5 mile spin giving the brakes some small pressure to build up some heat. After they were warm I did my usual break in, 8 stops from 60 to 10 mph with a hard pedal. The truck seemed to stop slower, and pedal travel was much more than before, almost to the floor. After these stops I let drove 15 min with minimal braking. After 15 min I did some more stops, which the pedal did seem to come back. At Moderate stops, its great , way better. But still with panic stops I'm not 100% convinced problem is solved. Do you think I just need to get some miles on them? I plan on doing the fronts tomorrow if I have time.

I also have a question on bleeding, I was going to bleed the rears out put I wasn't happy with a any of my wrenches on the bleeder. Is there a special socket/wrech I need?

BTW, when I did the brakes at 118k, I remember the rear pads were hard to place in brkt, the fronts went in really easy and slid back and fourth.

Be sure there is no rust ridge on the inside of the rotor, this could be keeping the pads from making full contact. Could be poor brake pad quality. Buy better brake pads if need be.

Be sure there is no rust ridge on the inside of the rotor, this could be keeping the pads from making full contact. Could be poor brake pad quality. Buy better brake pads if need be.

You were correct, Sir.........

I stopped by my moms dealer with my G8 GT today to get a new gas cap. For S & G's I bought the GM Durastop Pads (I get them pretty Cheap) for the front. When I got home I pulled the front Drivers side. The pads seemed to move OK, but the OB pad was still locked in the total OUT area. Inside pad was worn more than outside. The outside edge inside of rotor was rusted, and the pads were glazed. That was my problem. I ran back up to AutoZone, Told them I want my money back for the crappy pads and I want new rotors. They were very understanding and gave me two brand new rotors and will give me money back on my pads when I drop them Off tomorrow. I made sure, as I did in the back, to clean behind the clips, repaint, and use brake GREASE on all parts. Just took for a test drive to bed the pad and she stops great now. I think it was a combo of me not cleaning behind the clips and the sheety pads.