well i guess i took the shaft - i just bought my first diesel 1994 3500 4X4 very clean ----the guy that sold it to me said no problems - well a week later here i am

well everything i can see looks like a fuel injector pump is that right??????

today i was driving and leaving town started to go over 40 MPH and lost my power about have couldnt gain speed at all - no smoke - no bad sounds - just lost my HP

i stopped and turned it off and then on and ran fine till i was at about 40 MPH then same thing stopped again but the 3rd time i was really easy on it when i went over 40 it was fine

got home pulled the codes and had a list of them 18 35 36 54

well if it is the pump i see people talk about pump and module is it all one piece

and how long do i have before it goes out -- can i drive it -- will it just slowly get worse or completly stop ?? thanks ken

Injection pump and the Pump Mounted Driver module are two seperate pieces, YES.

But if your wondering if changing the driver will fix your problem, the answer is NO.

18 - Cam Reference Pulse Error, means your Optic sensor is bad.
35/36 - Short/Long Fuel Solenoid Response time or CTIME is outta whack.
54 - Again, the Fuel Solenoid has a problem that is keeping the PCM from being able to contol the injection pumps fuel metering.

You need a pump, with a new optic sensor, and a new driver too.

Also, you would be surprised how many 'half breed' DS4 injection pumps are out there. Just last week I got 3 cores that I pulled out of trucks myself that still had steel rollers inside them! Those were under a mandatory upgrade to ceramic rollers that was supposed to be completed in late '97. My point is, there's no telling what your pump needs till you get it apart. And your pump definitely needs mechanical work and electronic updates.

thank you for your reply very helpfull -- but what should i expect as far as time line -- i took it out again this afternoon and it ran great would never tell there was a problem -- i plan on looking for replacement parts next week do i have time or will it just take a crap and i am stuck ??? thanks

another where is a good place to get these parts ??

These pumps seem to limp along for awhile before they put ya to walking. No telling when walking is coming.

Just to start with, do you have a clean filter, and working lift pump? TDG is right, sounds like a pump is on the horizon, but check your fuel supply too.

Depending upon what part you need, is where you will get it. Some places do, and don't have "DIESEL" parts. Some from NAPA, fewer yet from discount autoparts stores, and some are only from the dealer. Trail and error sometimes.

Parts? you don't mean like individually purchase an optic sensor, PMD, ceramic rollers and a Fuel Solenoid right? You need a complete Rebuilt injection pump.

Local Diesel Fuel Injection shop.

TDG is right, if you have an original IP (injection pump) from 94, then your best bet, is to get a whole new shootin' match. But noting here that you have a 94 3500, it looks like you have that one special pump. That's the one of kind 5068 pump. TDG can fill you in better on that.

no i would rather go with a complete rebuilt - any suggestions on a place to get one there isnt any place around here so i have been looking on the web --

bare with me but i am new to a diesel is the optic sensor part of the pump -- i did order a sevice manual it isnt here yet need it

Yes, the optic sensor is part of the injection pump.

Whats your locale and we can help you find a fuel shop.

Illinois

what is the 11 year warranty 120k miles ?? who do i call

well i call a dealer and my warrenty expired 4-20-05 that suks so i will be changing it myself

when i change it is it just a slap in or is there adjustments or anything - is it better to take it someplace thank you

If you are under 120 call your GM dealership and they should be putting a new pump in it for you! Be persistant if they give you any trouble at all, it should get done under warrantee as long as you are under the 120 and around the 11 year mark. Good luck! :grd:

Just saw your last post. Well, the dealership can call GM for authorization still. They could say that the customer has been experiencing an intermitant problem for the last 6 months. GM itself has been very good about honouring the replacement of these pumps as long as you are "close" to the warrantee period. If that fails, get GM's customer service # and call them yourself! Persistance pay's off!

well i called GM and they called the dealer that i talked to and well they said i was screwed -

GM service # 1800-222-1020 bullitin #000064f

Yes, you can change your own pump. There are manuals out there to help you, and this board too. I think even on here somewhere, somebody actually outlined the whole process too. Sure, it's only a few lines of instruction, but it's an all day job first time around.

Remember, to make marks and line up the pump EXACTLY as it was. 1mm off one way or the other is 2° of timing in the engine.

I've got the same codes except throw in a 17 once in a while and I've been told by several mechs and by Walt "ssdieselsupply" that I need a PCM for my 94 k3500 I have yet to totaly decide what the H!!! is up with the truck for myself yet. When it first started felt like a fuel filter but after clearing/reading the codes it started to run only in limp mode and like sh!!. I kind of thought PMD then Injector pump but am new to diesels Had I for 3 years and only dun a 4 inch and an da K&N and alot of fuel filters and on new lift pump two weeks ago.

The intermittent loss of power is the truck slipping into limp mode from loss of optical advance. Changing the pump isn't that hard but it may take all day the first time you do it.

So you think is an IP also. I noticed today that the tach does not register when idling and not correctly when I rev it kinda bounces around is that because of the optic??

So you think is an IP also. I noticed today that the tach does not register when idling and not correctly when I rev it kinda bounces around is that because of the optic??

I don't think so. The tach signal comes from the alternator and what you are describing sounds like what my tach did when my alternator was going bad.

could you explain what?? I'm really lost here did you have these codes also?? what other probs did you have??????????????

The tachometer gets it's signal off of the alternator. When you have a diode go bad (like mine last week) your tach will act screwy. Get it fixed.

My thought is first, eliminate that electrical problem, and make sure that, it isn't causing any other problems anywhere else like makin' codes. The computers could be picking up weird things off that alternator with a screwy ground and give you weird codes. Disclaimer: This is just a thought, no one else has ever posted any results like this before, but something to consider.

17 = Hi Res Fault on the IP. It's the track telling the computer what degree the crank is at for it to figure out when the next injection event should begin. Miscount a track or two, and it doesn't know where it's at, thus a code. This can happen also from bad fuel.

If the optic sensor is bad, it could be replaced. IF that's your only code. Other pump codes mean it would be better to do whole pump.

If the optic sensor is bad, it could be replaced. IF that's your only code. Other pump codes mean it would be better to do whole pump.
Optic sensor Might fix some of his problem, but not codes 35 and 36. That means his FSOL CTIME is erratic, if it were just too long(36) or just too short(35), then we could say there is a possibility of an electrical or fuel or PMD problem, but even then, its most likely still a pump problem.