In the past month I've towed my 5th wheel rv a number of times. On one occasion I shut the truck off to unhook trailer, when I went to start it just to pull ahead, it wouldn't start. 5 minutes later, started right up. I took it into the dealer and he couldn't find any reason. A couple of weeks later, the same thing happened. Last week, I was pulling the 5th wheel again, coming in from Minot, crossing the US/Canada border they asked me to shut it down and you guessed it, wouldn't start, embarrassing. It wasn't running at all hot. tranny wasn't hot. This doesn't happen often and it does restart, one day it may NOT
I'm using a Prodigy brake control which is supposed to set to my driving habits,
is it possible it's messing with my PCM?????? Any takers on this one?

Thx Norm

When it doesn't start, have you hesitated the key in the run position to let all the dash lights lite up?
And do they all lite up before you move the key to the start position?

Trying to ask a few questions that may help the wizards think of an answer

Happy travels:)

how long has it been since you changed the fuel filter. if it was a gasser, that would sound like vapor lock. so, the easiest and very least expensive place to start at is the fuel filter.

dc

You say no start.....does it crank? And turn over with out firing.

How hot was it outside? If you tow a trailer for a reasonable distance , even though the truck temps are OK, when you shut it off without letting it idle and cool down a little, the engine and trans. temps will rise, also the fuel temp will be high because under the hood there will be a lot of heat, this is one of the reasons the return fuel goes through the fuel cooler before entering the fuel tank. Have you checked the temp gauges just before you attempt to start it, to see if the engine temps have gone up after shutdown. just some thoughts===charlie

next time pump the fuel primer -- may be time for a lift pump

next time pump the fuel primer -- may be time for a lift pump

Why would he need a lift pump? Just curious. I only play a mechanic on TV.

Great questions guys. Can't say I've really payed attention to the lights or gauges when it's not starting. Changed fuel filter about 5K miles ago 85% life left always use truck stops to fill and not when they are filling their tanks. Engine cranks over very fast without firing. Outside temp has been around 70-80*. All cases have towed 9000+- trailer at least 2 hrs on highway and always idle 10-15 minutes before shutting down.

Great questions guys. Can't say I've really payed attention to the lights or gauges when it's not starting. Temp on engine comes up about 10* and tranny about 25* when pulling trailer, all very much with-in the limits. Changed fuel filter about 5K miles ago 85% life left Always use truck stops to fill and not when they are filling their tanks, or the new stations with the tanks above ground. I really try to get the cleanest fuel possible. Engine cranks over very fast without firing. Outside temp has been around 70-80*. All cases have towed 9000+- trailer at least 2 hrs on highway and always idle 10-15 minutes before shutting down...............................Good idea trying the primer, never thought of that, I'll try it next time. Do you think I'm not letting it cool long enough?

I had one do this me in a 05 120K miles it would go for days without doing it very ramdom it was the damn ignition switch

Skintback.........that could be very possible.......how did you figure this out

Hey Skintback, that could be the problem, but how would you know?

Sorry, didn't realize my lost reply was on page 2

Had to put it on a tech2 and get it to do it pan in the azz

Sorry, what's that in Carpenter Terminology

Like hitting your finger over and over, feels so good when you stop

this happend to mine and it turned out to be the primer head leaking air into the system, instead of replacing the primer assy. it was about the same cost to put a lift pimp off of a 6.5 diesel it have the right pressure and volume,cheap compared to the aftermarket pumps, and easy to install

I would believe ignition switch. Mine has been doing it for a couple of years. Try to start, turns over but no start. Turn key off, say a couple of select 4 letter words, and try again with success. Never does it for more than one key stroke and always starts on the second try. Waiting on the lift pump to build pressure does not affect the results. May go months without doing it.

How much is the ignition switch and how much of a PITA is it to replace?

Is the 1/2 inch crappy supply hose from tank to filter collapsed trying to send fuel up stream? CP3 tries to suck it in and GM crap hose does that after a few yrs. Braided fuel line is stiffer and great replacement. Mine was only 3 yrs old and sucked in 70% when running hi power tunes. Checked my flow and sure was it for our problem.........

Is the 1/2 inch crappy supply hose from tank to filter collapsed trying to send fuel up stream? CP3 tries to suck it in and GM crap hose does that after a few yrs. Braided fuel line is stiffer and great replacement. Mine was only 3 yrs old and sucked in 70% when running hi power tunes. Checked my flow and sure was it for our problem.........


Don't go doing an ignition switch w/o doing the proper electrical tests but the suggestion above seems like a good one. Over on the LBZ board a P0087 pops up and gave earlier guys fits. The fix seems to be the collapsed fuel lines. All ways work from the simple things rule them out ,and then the more complex things.

To bad there is no code for ignition switches, or is there? The old gassers even I could hot wire. Any ideas on this or do I have to do like Skintback said and hook it to a meter and turn it on and off til I break it??????

I guess I'll have to just wait for it to not start and check the fuel line hose to see if it collapses enough to stop fuel supply, try priming it, or beat up my ignition. Did I miss anything. Please don't tell me to change the emblem on my truck. I'll let you know how this turns out. Thanks for all the ideas........................Norm