I want to make my own Turbo Master (TM) and if I understand correctly I'll either have to buy(BTW I'm cheap hence build my TM) a MAP fooler or put some resistors on the MAP and IAT maybe the BARO to get the full effect of the TM:confused:. I have 4 - 2.2k-ohm 1/2 watt 5% tolerance resistors that I used on my 98' Trans AM LS1 to disable the skip shift-:t(6 speed manual trans) left over. Can I use these on the MAP and IAT? If not these then which ones? I know I need to get a 10K pot aswell that's no problem either they are cheap to buy like me cheap ;). What wires do I run to the 10k pot? Do I need to add a resistor to the BARO? If these will work which wires do I put them on? Here are the wire colors for each and the letter on the harness for each color: MAP A=Black wire, B=Green wire, and C=Grey wire. IAT A=Orange wire, B= Black wire. BARO A=Black wire, B=Grey w/Black strip wire, and C=grey wire. I've done searching and found 1k and 2k resistors used but no results on if those worked or if you could use those sizes, and no info on which wires they were used on. Thanks for the help. I just want to :grd: .

The only thing you have to wire is a resistor in the MAP signal wire to the ECM (the B green wire). You can soder it in right next to the MAP, as once you set it, you'll forget it.http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=373

Going by the pic, I would take the A wire and splice into it going to the 10k pot(left post in the pic). Take the B wire or green wire cut it in half; soder in a resistor and run that from the MAP to the 10k pot (middle post on 10k pot) and run a wire from the 10k pot (right post) back to the other half of the green wire? Or just 1 resistor spliced into the green wire, no other resistors and no 10k pot? Sorry not very good when it comes to electronics. Thanks for the help QM.

You would cut the green wire a few inches down from the connector. The end coming from the connector goes to the right post on the 10K resistor. the end of the green wire that goes to the ECM goes to the middle post and a jumper to the black ground on the left post.

Got it. Thank you very much.

When it's wired in, you rotate the knob at idle 'till the SES light comes on then back it up 'till it goes out. That's where you'll leave it unless it still throws a code.

boost fooler schematic, used with working vac system, and for guys running at TM at upper end that occasionally code, fooler lies to PCM what actual boost level is