I have been lurking amongst the brake threads for a while trying to figure out the next step to my fix. I have been having the pulsating effect while braking and ran across lots of info on here concerning either warped rotors to just regular maintenance and removing some rust issues such as heymccall's writeup. So I have dug into this to try and remedy the problem. After pulling the tire and checking to see if things are moving freely, well they are not, the pads are locked in place and were difficult to break loose. The rotors are a little rusty around the top and it appears the inner pad is not making as good of contact as the out pad. Here's where I have run into one of my questions, is there a trick to removing the pads from the calipers? Do I have to remove the two Torx bolts to make this happen?

I'm going to move this to drivetrain as that's where most of the brake threads are bud.

I have been lurking amongst the brake threads for a while trying to figure out the next step to my fix. I have been having the pulsating effect while braking and ran across lots of info on here concerning either warped rotors to just regular maintenance and removing some rust issues such as heymccall's writeup. So I have dug into this to try and remedy the problem. After pulling the tire and checking to see if things are moving freely, well they are not, the pads are locked in place and were difficult to break loose. The rotors are a little rusty around the top and it appears the inner pad is not making as good of contact as the out pad. Here's where I have run into one of my questions, is there a trick to removing the pads from the calipers? Do I have to remove the two Torx bolts to make this happen?
For the rear, you must remove the bottom T55 torx bolt. The top can remain.

Buy a good quality T-55 Bit, some PB Blaster and have heat available. I broke 3 bits w/ out even budging the passenger side torx bolt. I am going to give it a go this weekend w/ heat and see if that helps. Don't have time to work on it this week. The Driver's side came out w/ very little effort...go figure.

Thanks for the tips. Would one be ahead and have the rotor turned while in the middle of this project? I attempted to remove the rotor without any luck. It appears to be stuck on good for only having 46k on it.

As cheap as these rotors are, it usually is best to replace rather than turn as a turned rotor is thinner and more likely to warp again. Especially if you are getting some pulsating now.

If you are working on the rear the parking brake shoes may be hanging. Rotating as you pull usually lets them slide off. Worst case is you have to back off the adjusters.

The fronts will come right off after you remove the caliper. You may need to break them loose from the hub with a persuader.

Thanks for the tips. Would one be ahead and have the rotor turned while in the middle of this project? I attempted to remove the rotor without any luck. It appears to be stuck on good for only having 46k on it.

As already suggested, back off the parking brake adjuster slightly and use a BFH to break it loose. Just be careful not to nick the threads on the wheel studs. When you install the new rotor, use some anti-seize where the old one was rusted on to make it easier to change in the future.

Thanks for all of the advice and helpful tips, going to replace rotors as suggested and going to replace pads as well. Was hoping to get more life out of the pads but after closer inspection they have worn a crown on the inner pad. They have loads of wear left on them, just afraid they may wear the rotors badly. The rotors did come off with some soaking of penetrating oil and a few blows of the hammer.

I know what you mean it's tempting to reuse a pad when theres lots of meat left but 99% time it will turn out to be a bad idea.

Back when I used to just jam the new pads in, the piston side pad would always be about half the thickness of the other pad at the next brake job.

A file is your friend at brake job time on these trucks. No way does a dealer shop or brake shop take the time to fit the pads. So doing it yourself is the way to go.

For the record, I was able to loosen the Torx bolt without breakage with the help of a breaker bar and some penetrating oil. Hopefully the front will go a little better, it will have to wait till in the morning. Taken the evening off to enjoy the daughters softball practice. Thanks again for all of your great insight and helpfulness.